Torridon Countryside Centre, Ross and Cromarty

Staying in a layby set back from the road, is a never again in Angela's book. Ullapool is a ferry and fishing port, and through the night the lorries rumbled by. Even with her earplugs in she could still hear them. Despite a bad night's sleep, we were up early, to take advantage of a sunny start to the day. John prefers to cook his breakfast outside if he can, and Angela prefers him to so she can sort herself out and tidy the inside of Marge. As we left Ullapool, a band of light rain crossed our path, but it didn't linger, the returning sunlight warmed us through the windows as we drove across the barren moorland towards Gairloch, a little further south on the coast. Stopping for a comfort stop, we were shocked to see someone had fly tipped a cement mixer and trailer into a stream! Don't blame us van people for this!

Gairloch is a pretty coastal village with a beautiful rose-coloured sandy sheltered beach. John picked up a couple of sea urchin shells, their spines absent, made smooth by the constant moving waters of the Atlantic.

But the pretty beach, and picturesque working harbour was not the reason we were lured there, but the newish public shower, a bit pricey, but ten minutes of hot water, (who needs to shower that long?), was welcome after a few days on the road. And as an added bonus, we saw two eagles hovering on the thermals over the harbour. We are now in Torridon, an area of outstanding natural beauty, lochs, and rocks to see at every turn of the road. And to top it all, the sun continued to warm us on this early autumn day.

A late afternoon walk to us alongside loch Torridon, after a stop at the deer museum and then  back through Torridon village, passing the adorable highland cows, who came right up to the fence to say hello.This evening, we even ate outside, as did our neighbours, a young couple with a roof tent. They are just the kind of neighbours we like, quiet. Tomorrow the forecast is for a beautiful clear sunny day. John is going to drive Marge over the notorious Bealach na Ba, a single track mountain pass road, with 20% gradients, including the steepest ascent of any road in the united kingdom, tight hairpin bends, and very few passing places. It crosses the Applecross peninsula, and when Angela drove it a few years ago in Marge II, our silver Crafter van, she had an upset stomach for two days prior at the thought of taking the pass road on. And of course, once she'd reached the viewpoint at the top, she was both relieved and elated. This time she'll be the passenger, who suffers from acrophobia. We'll let you know tomorrow how it went!

Old abandoned Falls of Measach car park, near Ullapool

Last night, just us in Marge, and three men in tents who pitched in the sand dunes to protect themselves from the wind. Today was forecast to be extremely wet from ten this morning, so we were packed up and ready to leave just after nine thirty, when a little drizzle misted the windscreen. As we drove, the rain intensified a little, but not enough to be considered a cloudburst, like we experienced daily on the isle of Mull. The changeable weather toyed with us, should we detour and revisit the mountain Stac Polliadh, or not? The rain cleared, and we decided to go for it. Since our last visit a few years ago, the parking area has been increased, you can no longer stay overnight, and daytime parking, no other options for a campervan is a whopping ten pounds or eight pounds for a car! That must be one expensive car parking area we all need to pay for. However, we weren't here to park, just to view for old times sake, and in our book, you can do that for free. Back in the day, we walked a fair way up the mountain, Angela bailing out, when the climb began to become more of a scramble, whilst John carried on to the top. As with most days in Scotland, one minute you're reaching for an umbrella, the next sunglasses.

Stac Polliadh delivered, standing proud in the autumn light. Just as we left the cloud began to draw across the top, and the drizzly rain reappeared. We then drove through the mountains towards Ullapool, considered a large hub in the area, complete with a Tesco, we marvelled at the scenery along the way.

The Highlands are just stunning, the views are as seen in a guide book for the area, and we were driving through them, it felt very special. Ullapool is a small port town, from where the ferry sails to Stornoway, on the isle of Lewis.

There were plenty of campervans and motorhomes there. Tesco was fully stocked with bottled water and baby wipes, the van travellers two essential items when in these parts. After a walk around and a fantastic fish and chip lunch it was time to find an overnight stop.

The one in a wooded area Angela had found was not suitable, as the rain had saturated the ground and made it too muddy, so we moved on to a layby set back from the road near Corrieshalloch Gorge and the Falls of Measach. Opposite us was a hole through a gap in the bushes where you can access the gorge, for free, so we did! It was late afternoon, and  the crowds of the day were long dispersed.

The damp environment was perfect for fungi, and John picked hedgehog mushrooms, the largest we'd ever seen.

So tonight we are parked on the roadside, last night, beach side, tomorrow who knows? Back in Ullapool there were at least thirty vans parked for the night in the Tesco carpark, well each to their own. The only mushrooms to be had there come in  plastic containers. Tomorrow we continue south, no doubt driving through yet more jaw dropping scenery.

Clashnessie Bay Beach, Assynt

Thanks to our noisy neighbours in the van next to us, we were up early this morning. We've been away for over three weeks now, and fortunately this is the first time we've been irritated by the people in the van next to us. Hopefully that'll be it for this trip. When we make our plans they are always loose, so today we didn't visit the mountain Stac Polliadh, but drove to Lochinver instead, home of the Lochinver pie shop, a must visit establishment for the very best pies.

And they were, with so many to choose from, savoury and sweet, we bought a fisherman's and a steak and ale for lunch. It was true, these were the very best pies! As we now find ourselves up in the north West Highlands, we thought we'd visit some of the beautiful white sand beaches. Clachtol being one of them.

Despite a strong onshore wind the rolling waves and fast moving clouds made for great photography. With the change of seasons, comes the colours of autumn which provide stunning scenery and incredible views. Yes it's cold, but also sunny, so wrapped up warm we took the chance today to walk on beaches and visit a waterfall.

The best waterfall so far at Clashnessie, where we are staying tonight right opposite the beach. We even saw a young couple having wedding photos taken on the beach.

Tomorrow's weather seems a little unsettled, but that's no bother. When it rains, waterfalls come alive, mist transforms the mountains, and the colours intensify. The best memories aren't always made in sunshine.

What the internet says about Clashnessie

Clashnessie is a tiny, historic crofting township located in the wild Assynt district of west Sutherland, along the dramatic north-west coast of Scotland. The name comes from the Scottish Gaelic Clais an Easaidh, which translates beautifully to the "glen of the waterfall".

The Crofting Community

The Settlement: The village consists of just 19 widely scattered houses spread over roughly a square mile. About half of these are original or rebuilt 19th-century crofters' cottages.

The History: Walking through the area, you can still spot the ruined stone walls of unmortared blackhouses. These were built by the original families who were forced to the coast from the more fertile interior during the Highland Clearages.

The Climate: Despite sitting far north, its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean's Gulf Stream grants it a surprisingly mild micro-climate.

Top Natural Attractions

Clashnessie Bay Beach: A spectacular, north-facing beach known for its fine white sand (which occasionally displays a unique ochre or red tinge) and striking turquoise waters. It is safe for family bathing and offers a great view back across the ancient coastal landscape.

Clashnessie Falls: A dramatic 15-metre (50-foot) waterfall that tumbles over ancient metamorphic rock. Depending on recent rainfall, it can transform from an elegant white veil into a roaring, coffee-coloured torrent.

Visiting Details

The Hike: The trail to the falls starts near the free beach parking area. It is a short but notoriously boggy, muddy, and rocky route that takes about 15 to 20 minutes each way.

The Terrain: You will need solid waterproof hiking boots or wellies. The path requires crossing the Clashnessie Burn via stepping stones, which can sometimes submerge after heavy rainfall.

Location: It is a popular, scenic detour for travelers exploring the famous North Coast 500 (NC500) route, situated just off the twisty, single-track B869 coastal road.