Craignure Forestry Trail, Scotland

Last night the weather was absolutely horrendous. Marge swayed and shook, and Angela felt sorry for the people in tents in the adjacent camping area. But the Scots are a tough lot. This morning, two lads set up a table behind their car, fired up the cooker to cook breakfast, in the pouring rain!  John offered to boil water for them using our electric kettle, but they declined, and why not, it was only a drop of rain, we are all wet most of the time now, it's become the norm. Suddenly our mobile phones briefly picked up a weak signal. Some friends of ours are also holidaying on the island and they wondered if we could all meet up in Tobermory. So a quick check Marge was all packed up before setting off up and over, down and round, into a passing place, out of a passing place. All these manoeuvres make for a slow drive.

('Borrowed' from Hooked's website)

Late morning coffee and then lunch at Hooked in Tobermory's Main Street the 'best fish and chip shop' ever, of course it was fishcakes all around, we picked up some shopping, bid our friends goodbye and as we were in Tobermory popped into the marina showers for two pounds worth of very nice hot water. Before leaving town, another walk, the sun breaking through for a very short while, a welcome relief.

In the harbour John saw a dolphin. Tonight the wind on the island is forecast to gust up to 46mph. We are trying an overnight spot we've never been to before, at the little parking area for Scallastle forest, one minute from the ferry terminal at Craignure.

We are hoping this weekend there will be some respite with the weather as we've decided because of the unrelenting rain, and us both having colds, walking the West Highland Way, and wild camping overnight in a very small tent is probably not a great idea. Best to wait until next year now. John would like Angela to spend a night out in the small tent we were taking, so we hope to spend a night on the small campsite on the island of Iona.

Fingers crossed, the weather delivers, and this Sunday it's half decent. That Airbnb Angela was hoping to be warm and snug in will have to wait!

Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull

Last night the rain came and went. Mid morning, keen to break out of Marge, we walked out along the nearby section of road that is closed due to landslip and rockfall, although it is passable with a vehicle at your own risk.

If you know, you know. Waterproof jackets on, the walk was pleasant until the never ending bands of rain passed over. At one point we sought refuge behind a large rock, a good idea, probably not. Some much needed exercise done, we packed up Marge and set off to nearby Salen to purchase hot drinks and yet more kitchen rolls for nose blowing purposes. Angela, has, as expected after a week given John her cold, you can imagine how popular she is! On our way to Salen, travelling behind one of the Mull Wildlife Tour land rovers we happened upon a group with tripods, long lens cameras and spotting scopes set up.

There was obvious something to see. Two otters on a nearby rock, and an eagle flying close to the surface of the water. Earlier we'd seen a seal. It was turning out to be quite a morning. As the rain pounded Marge, we sat in her wondering where to stay for tonight. High winds were forecast all over the island.

We decided to head to Calgary Bay, one of the few  spots near a beach. As we drove up and over the hills, passing through Dervaig, the village looked sad and soggy, as did the camping area at Calgary bay. Marge positioned into the wind, diesel heater on, we settled in for the rest of the day and night with sadly no internet connection. It's shameful really, that we've become reliant on the internet, early in the year when we were away Angela was happy to read her book, now the distractions of online viewing have become a compulsive consumption. Note to self Angela, take your reading book out of the cupboard.

Loch na Keal, Isle of Mull

Yesterday was a waterfall today, today rainbows. And to create rainbows, what do you need, sunshine and rain, of which there was plenty.

 Today, a visit to Tobermory. When the rain gets you down, and the thought of hiking in it depresses you, Tobermory is the place to decamp to. From Lochbuie, for Marge,  it's a drive of around an hour and a half.

Today was much longer as after a stop at the Spar in Salen, just outside the village the traffic began to build up.

The reason, a tree had fallen onto a van and the power cable opposite.  Hopefully the van driver was O.K. After some time the men from Scottish power cleared the tree and the road opened. There aren't many roads here on Mull, and this particular one is the main road to Tobermory. Some people were impatient about having to wait for the clearance, but hey, that tree could have fallen onto any of our vehicles, thank god we stopped at the village shop, Marge might have clocked it! Last time we arrived at Tobermory it was heaving, today not so. The persistent showers have either driven people off the island or just kept them inside.

So it was easy to park in Marge, before setting off to 'Hooked' for a lunch of their homemade haddock fishcakes, of which you are given two, with either a choice of salad or chips. We think they are the best fishcakes we've ever eaten. Sorry The Fish Plaice in Swanage, yours are excellent as well, but these pip you at the post. No photos of lunch, but we spotted this in Hooked!

As another day draws to a close, Angela is still unwell, which she's really fed up about. A decision needs to be made about our west highland way walk. Is it a good idea for her to exert herself, then spend the nights in a tent in the cold and wet? We're now sat at Loch na Keal in a new spot for us trying to make some decisions. 

We think the warm weather we experienced from April to early September whilst on our travels has spoiled us. Did we complain at times it was too hot? Surely not. Well at this moment in time, a little bit of warm sunshine and no rain really appeals. What do you think Marge, should we head for the sun?

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

Who knew today would turn out to be a 'waterfall day. With so much rain recently they were positively gushing. Last night's rain was miserable, as was the wind. Packing up at Fidden Farm this morning was a challenge. Nobody likes to be wet. But as we drove back through the Ross of Mull the cloud slung low, began to lift so we were able to take in the magnificent views. After some googling it seemed returning to Lochbuie would be our best option. The rain was forecast for all day and night, but the winds appeared to be lighter there, so that's where we headed. Honestly Mull, where's this terrible weather coming from you're throwing at us. We couldn't believe yesterday was so stunningly beautiful. Despite the miserable drive, we were rewarded with the sighting of deer as we approached Lochbuie.

A wet Lochbuie would be unappealing to some, but we know the place so it's easy to see the beauty through the murk. Marge was positioned in her usual area, and we just sat out the weather. Angela hasn't been very well since just after we arrived on the island. She has a terrible cold, not surprising considering the inclement weather, so a day just sitting suited her. The main season here has come to an end, but there are still plenty of visitors. More visitors bring more inexperienced drivers when it comes to single track roads with passing places. You just have to be patient with these novices. Stopping for people along these roads is usually rewarded with a wave. One finger lifted from the steering wheel is usually, two fingers lifted acceptable, a full wave considered to show you are overly excited probably because you've just seen your first Highland Coo!

Fidden Farm Campsite, Fionnphort (day 2)

Yesterday evening's beautiful sunset was followed by a bright clear start this morning. The weather settled, with no rain forecast we dealt with our chores before walking down to Fionnphort to catch the short ferry crossing to the tiny island of Iona.

We visited here a few years ago, and the weather was warm, just as it was today. The weather in Scotland messes with your head. How can it be so glorious one day, and horrible the next? The island of Iona is famous for its beautiful restored medieval abbey and white sand beaches. Around 130,000 visitors visit each year, and today we became two of that number. Most of today's visitors seemed to be American.

 Finding a quiet spot in the garden of the Argyll Hotel overlooking the Sound of Iona towards Mull, just one mile away, we unpacked our lunch. Angela bought drinks from the bar and we settled down to a relaxed Sunday afternoon whilst enjoying warm sunshine and incredible views. Once again the weather had, delivered, we couldn't have wished for better.

Reluctant to leave our 'seats with a view', we walked up to the ruins of the medieval nunnery and then to the nearby graveyard where the John Smith, leader of the Labor party for almost two years before his untimely death, is buried.

As the sun warmed us, Angela felt an ice cream was in order. It might now be autumn, but sun and warmth in September equals late summer in her books. Our brief visit to Iona, over, we boarded the return ferry. Back at Marge John sorted out wood to cook the local venison sausages we bought a few days ago. The wind up, a chill returned to the air. Our spot on the campsite is right by the sea. As the tide crept in, John spotted a small, slender dark chocolate brown animal scuttling in and around the nearby granite rocks. Was it a small otter? No, it was an American mink! What a sighting, our first ever mink, what a perfect end to the day.