At last, this morning Mull returned to the island we love. After so much unsettled weather here, we were delighted to wake up this morning to beautiful clear sunny weather, stunning views and otters.
The island is much quieter now, and with less people and calm waters we were able to spot the otters, not just in the loch, but running around the stony beach and hopping over rocks. And not just one, but two. Only yesterday, Angela had commented, before we left Mull it would be fantastic to see an otter close up. Well her wish had come true.
We have never been privileged to watch them at such close quarters before. It was magical. The weather settled, and the otters now departed we decided to move to another area of the island. Leaving Loch Na Keal felt a little sad. This area is our favourite place on the island, and this afternoon as the clouds moved across the top of Ben More shadows were cast over the loch and the hills opposite. The shifting light and autumn colours were so stunning. We will probably not visit Scotland next year as there are too many other places we want to visit in 2027. But leaving the loch, as it looked today was the lasting memory we were glad to take home with us. Not too far away, John found a forest park up nearby to Tobermory. Google maps of course took us totally to the wrong spot, but we didn't mind as we got to see Glengorm castle, a Scottish baronial castle on the coast, built in 1860.
The castle has recently been sold, asking price, offer's over 9 million pounds. Out of our price range then. Eventually we found our overnight spot, with views down the sound of Mull and back across to Ardnamurchan.
Despite feeling weary, we took a short walk out. Tomorrow lunchtime we will take the ferry from Craignure to Oban, it's time now to think about slowly heading home taking the memories of today with us, honestly, seeing the otters so close will stay with us forever, just as seeing a white tailed eagle fly over Marge's roof this afternoon, these birds have an 8 foot plus wingspan so was very impressive.
A visit to Tobermory early in the morning for a shower and a last look at the vibrant waterfront before heading to our ferry. We are glad we gave Mull a second visit on this trip, the thought of not seeing it in the sunshine on our last visit had saddened us. Now we can leave happy.
What the internet says about the Ardmore Forest
The Ardmore Forest is a beautiful, 600-hectare commercial and regenerating plantation managed by Forestry and Land Scotland, situated on the northernmost tip of the Isle of Mull. Facing out toward the Sound of Mull and the Atlantic, it provides an exceptionally peaceful escape that blends thick conifer blocks, recovering open heathland, dramatic coastal views, and profound layers of Highland history.
Beyond its scenic appeal, the forest serves a vital ecological and utility function: it acts as a critical drinking water catchment area that supplies the main public water system for Tobermory as well as the historic Tobermory Distillery.
The Ardmore Shore Walk
The best way to experience the area is by embarking on the popular Ardmore Shore Walk .
Distance: 4.5 miles (7.25 km)Time : Approximately 2 hours
Difficulty: Easy to moderate. The main paths utilize well-maintained forestry tracks, though the coastal section can become quite boggy and uneven after typical Scottish rainfall.
Difficulty: Easy to moderate. The main paths utilize well-maintained forestry tracks, though the coastal section can become quite boggy and uneven after typical Scottish rainfall.
The Route: The trail begins at the dedicated Forestry and Land Scotland car park off the Glengorm road. You will amble through stands of Sitka spruce and Lodgepole pine before the path drops down toward the shore, loops around the sweeping crescent of Ardmore Bay , and weaves back through the woodlands.
Exceptional Wildlife Watching
Mull is fondly nicknamed "Eagle Island," and Ardmore Forest is one of the premier spots on the north coast to view rare raptors and marine life.
In the Air: Keep your eyes on the sky to spot magnificent white-tailed sea eagles and golden eaglessoaring over the coastal ridges. On the Water: The tidal edges are home to gray and harbor seals. If you are exceptionally patient, you may spot elusive otters hunting in the shallows.
The Bird Hide: Tucked away on the edge of Ardmore Bay is a dedicated, sheltered wildlife hide. It is the perfect place to set up a camera, rest your legs, and scan the shoreline out of the wind.
Poignant Ghost Villages
The landscape carries a beautiful yet heavy history. As you explore the trails, the modern commercial forest parts to reveal the haunting stone ruins of Penalbanach (a 19th-century farmstead abandoned in the 1930s) and the old Ardmore Township . In the 20th century, these traditional agricultural smallholdings were largely swallowed up by commercial tree planting. Now that recent felling operations have cleared the canopy, the roofless, fern-clad stone dwellings—including the remnants of the old village school—stand as a quiet, atmospheric reminder of the community that once lived and worked on this coastline.
Coastal Vistas & Geology
At the furthest edge of the trail network lies Ardmore Point , Mull's most north-easterly tip. The point features a solar-powered signaling light and boasts jaw-dropping panoramic views across the water to the rugged Ardnamurchan Peninsula (the most westerly point of mainland Britain), the village of Kilchoan, and the islands of Coll and Tiree on a clear day. Keen geologists will also notice fascinating volcanic features along the shore, including ancient basalt sills and distinct onion-skin weathering in the rock faces.
Practical Visitor Tips
Getting There:From Tobermory, take the Dervaig Road (B8073) and turn off toward Glengorm. The gravel forestry car park is about 1 mile down this road on your right.Footwear: Even though the tracks are wide and clear, the shoreline paths are notoriously "squelchy." High-quality waterproof walking boots or wellies are highly recommended.
Facilities: This is a wild, remotely managed forest. There are no public toilets or visitor centers on site, so make sure to pack in your own food and water.