Ardmore Forest car park, outside Tobermory

At last, this morning Mull returned to the island we love. After so much unsettled weather here, we were delighted to wake up this morning to beautiful clear sunny weather, stunning views and otters.

The island is much quieter now, and with less people and calm waters we were able to spot the otters, not just in the loch, but running around the stony beach and hopping over rocks. And not just one, but two. Only yesterday, Angela had commented, before we left Mull it would be fantastic to see an otter close up. Well her wish had come true.

Link to a YouTube video of one of the otters

We have never been privileged to watch them at such close quarters before. It was magical. The weather settled, and the otters now departed we decided to move to another area of the island. Leaving Loch Na Keal felt a little sad. This area is our favourite place on the island, and this afternoon as the clouds moved across the top of Ben More shadows were cast over the loch and the hills opposite. The shifting light and autumn colours were so stunning. We will probably not visit Scotland next year as there are too many other places we want to visit in 2027. But leaving the loch, as it looked today was the lasting memory we were glad to take home with us. Not too far away, John found a forest park up nearby to Tobermory. Google maps of course took us totally to the wrong spot, but we didn't mind as we got to see Glengorm castle, a Scottish baronial castle on the coast, built in 1860.

The castle has recently been sold, asking  price, offer's over 9 million pounds. Out of our price range then. Eventually we found our overnight spot, with views down the sound of Mull and back across to Ardnamurchan.

Despite feeling weary, we took a short walk out. Tomorrow lunchtime we will take the ferry from Craignure to Oban, it's time now to think about slowly heading home taking the memories of today with us, honestly, seeing the otters so close will stay with us forever, just as seeing a white tailed eagle fly over Marge's roof this afternoon, these birds have an 8 foot plus wingspan so was very impressive. 

A visit to Tobermory early in the morning for a shower and a last look at the vibrant waterfront before heading to our ferry. We are glad we gave Mull a second visit on this trip, the thought of not seeing it in the sunshine on our last visit had saddened us. Now we can leave happy.

What the internet says about the Ardmore Forest

The Ardmore Forest is a beautiful, 600-hectare commercial and regenerating plantation managed by Forestry and Land Scotland, situated on the northernmost tip of the Isle of Mull. Facing out toward the Sound of Mull and the Atlantic, it provides an exceptionally peaceful escape that blends thick conifer blocks, recovering open heathland, dramatic coastal views, and profound layers of Highland history.

Beyond its scenic appeal, the forest serves a vital ecological and utility function: it acts as a critical drinking water catchment area that supplies the main public water system for Tobermory as well as the historic Tobermory Distillery.

The Ardmore Shore Walk

The best way to experience the area is by embarking on the popular Ardmore Shore Walk .

Distance: 4.5 miles (7.25 km)

Time :  Approximately 2 hours
Difficulty: Easy to moderate. The main paths utilize well-maintained forestry tracks, though the coastal section can become quite boggy and uneven after typical Scottish rainfall.

The Route: The trail begins at the dedicated Forestry and Land Scotland car park off the Glengorm road. You will amble through stands of Sitka spruce and Lodgepole pine before the path drops down toward the shore, loops around the sweeping crescent of Ardmore Bay , and weaves back through the woodlands.

Exceptional Wildlife Watching

Mull is fondly nicknamed "Eagle Island," and Ardmore Forest is one of the premier spots on the north coast to view rare raptors and marine life.

In the Air: Keep your eyes on the sky to spot magnificent white-tailed sea eagles and golden eaglessoaring over the coastal ridges. 

On the Water: The tidal edges are home to gray and harbor seals. If you are exceptionally patient, you may spot elusive otters hunting in the shallows.

The Bird Hide: Tucked away on the edge of Ardmore Bay is a dedicated, sheltered wildlife hide. It is the perfect place to set up a camera, rest your legs, and scan the shoreline out of the wind.

Poignant Ghost Villages

The landscape carries a beautiful yet heavy history. As you explore the trails, the modern commercial forest parts to reveal the haunting stone ruins of Penalbanach (a 19th-century farmstead abandoned in the 1930s) and the old Ardmore Township . In the 20th century, these traditional agricultural smallholdings were largely swallowed up by commercial tree planting. Now that recent felling operations have cleared the canopy, the roofless, fern-clad stone dwellings—including the remnants of the old village school—stand as a quiet, atmospheric reminder of the community that once lived and worked on this coastline.

Coastal Vistas & Geology

At the furthest edge of the trail network lies Ardmore Point , Mull's most north-easterly tip. The point features a solar-powered signaling light and boasts jaw-dropping panoramic views across the water to the rugged Ardnamurchan Peninsula (the most westerly point of mainland Britain), the village of Kilchoan, and the islands of Coll and Tiree on a clear day. Keen geologists will also notice fascinating volcanic features along the shore, including ancient basalt sills and distinct onion-skin weathering in the rock faces.

Practical Visitor Tips

Getting There:From Tobermory, take the Dervaig Road (B8073) and turn off toward Glengorm. The gravel forestry car park is about 1 mile down this road on your right.

Footwear: Even though the tracks are wide and clear, the shoreline paths are notoriously "squelchy." High-quality waterproof walking boots or wellies are highly recommended.

Facilities: This is a wild, remotely managed forest. There are no public toilets or visitor centers on site, so make sure to pack in your own food and water.

Tobermory, Isle of Mull

Just before we retired to bed last night Angela noticed there wasn't a breath of wind. Not a quiver from the leaves on the tree in front of us. We'd only waited nearly five weeks for this moment. This morning however, we were back to normality, the wind blew across the loch, which was o.k. as it dried the small amount of washing we'd just put out. Strong wind and heavy rain is forecast on the island this evening, so we made a decision to head back into Tobermory for the night, once again staying alongside the harbour. It also gave us a chance to take a shower at the marina and pick up yet more shopping. 

Tobermory is a must visit place when on the island. What many visitors don't realise is that  the main street leads just to the ferry terminal. Large motorhomes regularly become stuck, causing chaos. We have to agree with the lady in, 'Hooked', the excellent fish and chips shop serving the 'best scampi ever', that they should be called 'crash vans' up here as they're far too large for Scottish roads. Showers taken and lunch eaten we walked around the small town, stopping at the bookshop where we saw the largest selection of books on otters we'd ever seen.

Then more walking, to try and ease the excessive lunch, up above the town from where the views of the harbour and colourful buildings are stunning. 

Tomorrow we will probably drive over to Loch Na Keal for the night. Last time we stayed there we saw an otter. After our sighting of one yesterday, we have the 'bug', and are now keen to see more.

Tobermory, Isle of Mull

We love the evenings when we can sit out and watch the sun go down, and last night we did just that. We were also rewarded with the sighting of an otter in the nearby water and a white tailed eagle flying over head shortly before we retired to bed. And to top it all, our German neighbour said Muddy Marge was beautiful. So many compliments.

But this morning the weather had changed. The beautiful clear weather of yesterday gone to another land. A cloud of wet billowing grey curtains hung amongst the mountains. It was miserable. We breakfasted inside for the first time this trip, suddenly aware of our slightly tight living conditions.

But the weather was an improving picture and soon we were able to take a long walk out hoping to spot more otters. No luck there, but we smiled at the sighting of four families of geese staying close for safety for fear of a predator taking one of the goslings.

The camouflaged sheep who we awarded first prize for fancy dress, and at the little lamb who appeared to be stuck amongst some rocks whilst it's mother on the hill above bleated frantically. After John released the lamb it sauntered of with an air of, I wasn't  really stuck, just pretending.

Because of the miserable weather forecast we decided to stay at the loch. After all where else could we sit on our loo and enjoy such a beautiful view. But around five thirty whilst Angela was researching park ups on the Isle of Skye she noticed a weather warning for tonight for winds in excess of 40 mph. Checking the forecast for Mull she discovered the same wind speeds would occur here also, and not winds of 14 mph which showed on this mornings weather forecast.

So we packed up and drove into Tobermory where we parked up with other campers by the harbour and treated ourselves to a fish supper from a fish and chips shop that will sell you a meat pie plain, or battered! Whilst John waited for the food he noticed a pallet over in the corner with sacks of potatoes stacked on it. A notice on the wall above read, 'shush, the potatoes are sleeping'. Love it. Whilst John sorted out our food Angela chatted to a man who guess what, loved the Land Rover. Turned out he was camping next to us at The Red Squirrel Campsite at Ballachulish whilst he waited for a house purchase to go through here on Mull. He moved in last Wednesday. What were the chances of us meeting again?

Tomorrow after stocking up on groceries, and once again using the showers at the marina we will take the ferry across to Ardnamurchan. We'll be sad to leave Mull but have already discussed returning after we've been to the islands of Skye, Harris and Lewis.

Tiger moth caterpillar.