Camping les Trois Palmiers,Tafroute (Morocco 85450)

With Marge all fuelled up it was time to set off across the Anti-Atlas mountains to Tafroute. As we were preparing to leave the garage a Moroccan in a 4 x 4 asked if we wanted to follow him to the small Sahara to see camels. Firstly, your 4 x 4 is not in the same league as Marge, proven by the fact there were quite a number of very old land rovers in Tiznit, and secondly, we've had our fill of camels for the time being.

Not long after leaving the outskirts of Tiznit we found ourselves travelling through a sandy, dusty terrain with very little vegetation, save the odd sad looking argan tree, and a few scatter green shrubs, all thirsty in this barren landscape.

As we approached the Anti-Atlas mountains, dilapidated houses of thick stoned walls sat alongside modern terracotta new builds, built into terraces that clung to the hillside. We were surprised at just how many people lived in the area. Some of the homes were very grand. Almost palatial. Once Marge had negotiated the winding roads up to the summit and over the mountains we decided it was time for a refreshment break, so we stopped at a cafe adjacent to a fuel station where we enjoyed conversation with a local man. He'd been to England, his brother lives in Peterborough. Angela asked him why there were so many properties in the area that seemed uninhabited, and he told us the owners were away working in places like Casablanca, and that they returned to the area for three weeks in August. He suggested we take the scenic route down to Tafroute, which although winding was downhill and suited Angela a lot better. She really has a problem with the heady heights of the mountains, suffering with acrophobia, which triggers your brains response to threats leading to panic and anxiety. She can assure you, she wishes she didn't suffer from it.

As we approached Tafroute the landscaped changed. Stunning rock formations of red granite lined each side of the road. Honestly this area should be a UNESCO world heritage site. Tafroute is bustling and vibrant, alive and yet sleepy. Every business imaginable is here. We are almost a thousand metres above sea level, and we think we expected the air to be fresher. Quite the opposite, it is hot, very hot, the air oppressive.

So we waited until after five to walk out, sitting in Marge with three fans running until we ventured out to look around the town and buy some fruit and vegetables from the market. We have come to Tafroute to see some coloured boulders. Why? You might ask. Well in tomorrow's blog you'll see why.

Camping municipal de Tiznit (Morocco 85000) day 2

The English couple here with us advised that it's best to leave early in the morning, as the roads are quieter, and the Moroccans are not so hot headed behind the the wheel. So, taking their advise, we did just that. The scenery and the terrain here was not as Angela imagined it would be. The road cut through and over the hills.

The landscape rugged and arid. Surprisingly hundreds of bee hives were scattered over the lower levels of the mountains. Somewhere in this area there is desert and coastal flora which the bees love. Personally we couldn't see any flora of any kind. Our first visit was to Legriza to see the mammoth red stone arch. Leaving Marge parked precariously above the beach we set off to view this impressive feature.

From a distance the rock looks like solid red sandstone, but on closer inspection we were surprised to see it was a collection of red sandstone and sedimentary rocks.

However it was very impressive, and of course there were a couple of camels on hand for rides or photo opportunities.

First photograph of the camel was free, but if you're savvy you can take more without anyone noticing. As we walked back along the beach. A mix of soft golden sand, and pebbles we decided to stop at the beach cafe for a drink. Everyone else chose to sit up on the veranda behind, we decided a seat near the shoreline was perfect.

 The beach was busy with visitors. The last time we saw tourists in quantity we were at Essaouira. This part of Morocco seems a little remote, and as we drove on to Sidi Ifni on the south west coast it began to feel as if we were leaving behind the Morocco we'd become used to. We had planned to stay overnight at Sidi Ifni, but all the campsites were closed, and we didn't really like the area, so we decided to drive back to Tiznit just under an hour away, which we didn't mind. We walked into town to buy onions and bread, returning to catch up on some washing. Today has been a nice day, albeit it tiring. Tomorrow we will need to be up and away early as we will be embarking on our return journey north, visiting some interesting towns and cities along the way whilst hopefully enjoying desert and mountain landscapes.

Camping municipal de Tiznit (Morocco 85000)

Last night it seemed very strange to be the only people on a one hundred and thirty pitch campsite. It felt like we'd sneaked in. Which we did once when cycling in France and a campsite was closed. The site was landscaped nicely, with palm trees, and succulents. There was also a fantastic swimming pool. All for £8.55 a night. The downside, flies. Because there is so much rubbish here they are everywhere. During the night Angela woke up coughing because somewhere rubbish containing plastic was being burned. And once again this morning we could see black smoke billowing across the blue sky. Moroccans are supposed to be very house proud, but the space beyond their boundary is not their responsibility, and nobody else seems to wants to be responsible for all the devastation and mess. Angela spoke at length with the campsite manager last night. He explained that Morocco was changing. The younger generation were selfish, only interested in material items and not family. In four years time the football world cup will be held in Morocco. Yesterday when we drove out of Agadir we could see lots of flats being built. Because youngsters don't want to live with their families as has been a tradition in the past, they are being encouraged to buy small flats. Also, most couples only want one child now. It sounds like this is an end of an era for Morocco.

We are now in the 'small sahara', the terrain sandy, with a few trees and little vegetation. As we drove Angela realised the route we were driving, and the town we would be staying at tonight, was one we visited when we took an excursion out when we were here in early 2025. Then the campervans were queuing to come into the municipal campsite despite a sign saying it was full. Today there are just four of us, including a couple of van lifers from England.

It being a Sunday here the town was quiet when we walked around, but we managed to find a restaurant open where we stopped and ordered chicken tajine and vegetable cous cous.

Bread purchased to accompany our  cheese, olives and hummus this evening we returned to Marge. It has been very hot today, and we are sure once again tonight will be warm, which disturbs our sleep. Tomorrow we will move on again. We are now very close to reaching the border with Mauritania where will turn back as we still have much to see. Morocco is described as the gateway to the unknown, so Marge, best go and see some more of it!

La Palmeraie, Tifnit (Morocco 87274)

Nearly everytime we park Marge up here someone wants to wash her down. It's really a pointless exercise with so much dust around, but appearances matter, so this morning John gave her a quick once over before we left the campsite. A short drive down the coast took us to Agadir. Yesterday evening, when we walked down to the beach we could see the sea mist rolling in off the Atlantic darkening the skies over the outskirts of the city. Today we were on a mission to find wine for Angela. So not to overload Marge too much she only bought only four bottles with her from Spain. Rationing herself to a very small glass a day, she has already consumed two. Morocco is an islamic country, so no alcohol is widely available. However, some larger supermarkets in Tangier, Casablanca, Agadir and Marrakech have a 'closed cave' often behind a curtain. Two bottles of Bordeaux, for not much more than she pays in France, she was a happy bunny. Shockingly, whilst deciding which wine to buy. A boy of around six years old, who looked Moroccan bought a bottle of white wine, with no questions asked. Wine and provisions bought we released Marge back into the mayhem and drove to the souk. When we came to Agadir in February 2025 we ate a fantastic chicken tajine here. Marge was parked in the care of a guardian, the one today barely spoke English. He spotted Angela had some crisps in the front of Marge and asked if he could have them. Having been in Morocco a while and seeing how some people live, rifling though bins for food, and selling stale bread to people like this man, she couldn't refuse. The souk was bustling, just as we remembered. We stopped at the first place selling tajine, which John thought was where we ate before. Angela wasn't so sure.

Never less we enjoyed a delicious lamb tajine. After lunch we decided to walk around the souk a while coming across the place we'd eaten tajine when last here. The guys instantly recognised us, especially Angela. Not sure why. We felt bad, we apologised for not eating with them. They didn't mind, they were so pleased to see us again.

Not wanting to be away from Marge too long we bought a gift from one of the stalls, Angela bartering with the man. Then oranges and a melon from another before returning to a cafe we visited before for tea and coffee. Back at Marge, the parking guardian asked us if Marge looked O.K. She seemed fine. Angela paid him, he asked for more but she said no, reminding him she'd given him the crisps. Smiling, he asked if we could give him a drink, everytime you buy coffee here they give you a bottle of water, so she gave him one. Looking to have a more relaxing day than yesterday we were keen to arrive at tonight's campsite by late afternoon.

It is away from the coast, and in the season you are unlikely to secure one of the one hundred and thirty pitches, as many people stay here for months. Today, there is just us, the peacocks, peahens and pea chicks. Bliss!