Bonar Bridge, Kyle of Sutherland

It is said, a, watched kettle that never boils, dolphins that don't turn up when expected, disappointing.

This morning however, a wet walk through the fairy glen in Rosemarkie ended with a visit to the Crofters Cafe on the seafront, where amazingly we saw two dolphins pass nonchalantly by!

Everything comes to those who wait! Refreshed by our refreshments, the persistent drizzle dampening the day, and our spirits, we set off to somewhere north. Realising, we didn't really know where, we thought it might be a good idea to pull into a layby, make some lunch, and a loose plan. In this area at a place called Skelbo, where we've stayed twice before, a large colony of seals can be seen at low tide on the sand flats. Sadly, you can no longer stay in the parking area overnight, but we would like to drive there tomorrow to watch the seals a while before moving on a little further.

We hope the weather stays onside, despite being colder, it is more settled now. So tomorrow Skelbo, then over to Stac Pollaidh, weather permitting, and then back across to the west coast to Ullapool for some of the best fish and chips in Scotland, after Tobermory of course.  Today, a slogan on the back of a van reads, 'Those who wander are not lost'. We certainly wander, and we're definitely not lost, we're at Bonar Bridge!

What the internet says about Bonar Bridge 

Bonar Bridge is a picturesque village in the Scottish Highlands, situated on the north bank of the Kyle of Sutherland. Originally a critical point for driving cattle across the tidal waters, the settlement was simply known as "Bonar" until its namesake engineering marvel connected the banks in 1812. Today, it serves as a tranquil, scenic base for exploring Sutherland and the wider Highlands.

The Three Bridges

The village is defined by the history of its river crossings, tracked by a monument cairn at the edge of the water: 

The Telford Bridge (1812–1892): Engineered by the legendary Thomas Telford, this innovative cast-iron arch bridge cost under £10,000. It stood for 80 years before being violently swept away during the historic North of Scotland floods on 29 January 1892—an event allegedly predicted by the local mythic figure, the Brahan Seer. 

The Arrol Bridge (1893–1973): Rebuilt using a three-span iron girder design by Sir William Arrol, the engineer famous for the Forth Bridge. 

The Modern Bridge (1973–Present): The current steel bowstring arch structure offers panoramic views over the firth and accommodates modern vehicle and pedestrian traffic. 

Geography & Atmosphere

Bonar Bridge sits right where the Dornoch Firth narrows into the Kyle of Sutherland. Four salmon-rich rivers—the Oykel, Cassley, Shin, and Carron—all feed into the estuary right above the village. 

For generations, the village was a bustling hub on the main A9 artery heading up to Caithness. However, since the opening of the Dornoch Firth Bridge bypassed the loop in 1991, it has transformed into a peaceful, relaxing haven surrounded by steep, wooded slopes. 

Local History & Surrounding Lore

The immediate area holds incredible, sometimes dark historical significance: 

Carbisdale Castle: Visible just up the road, this striking Edwardian castle was built out of pure spite. Following a bitter family feud, the Dowager Duchess of Sutherland built it just outside family lands, deliberately leaving the castle clock tower blank on the side facing the Sutherland estate to "never give them the time of day". 

The Highland Clearances: Nearby Croick Church stands as a solemn monument to the 1840s evictions. Displaced families took refuge in the churchyard and scratched desperate, heartbreaking messages into the glass windowpanes, which are still visible today. 

Battle of Carbisdale (1650): The final battle of the Royalist general, the Marquess of Montrose, was fought nearby. He was defeated, disguised himself as a peasant to escape across the Kyle, but was quickly betrayed and executed.

Things to Do

Outdoor Activities: The calm waters are highly popular for canoeing and paddleboarding, while the surrounding trails are excellent for walking circuits and cycling.

Wildlife Spotting: Look out for red deer, pine martens, and rare Scottish wildcats in the dense local woods.

Falls of Shin: Located just a few miles north, this is one of the premier spots in Scotland to watch wild salmon leaping upstream between June and September.

Golf: The village features its own scenic 9-hole golf course. 

Fortrose Bay Campsite, Fortrose

We slept well last night at the little parking area by castle Roy, adjacent to Abernethy Old Kirk and grave yard, with its immaculate grounds. And to top it, little wind, and a very short light rain shower overnight.

This morning, the sun was up and ready to welcome us to a new day. We were so glad we'd decided to venture to the eastern side of Scotland. Today Fortrose, Angela booked a pitch on the campsite there last night, something we don't usually do, as it turned out, it was the right thing to do, the site was fully booked when we arrived. But before Fortrose, a stop at Carrbridge to see the oldest stone bridge in the Highlands.

The famous packhorse bridge spans the river Dulnain right in the centre of the village. It was built so coffins could be carried to the church on the far side. For us, the bridge and the view through it was one of the prettiest sights we've seen in Scotland. But we could not linger, an Aldi store on the outskirts of Inverness was calling us.

This afternoon, with Marge all settled at the campsite that overlooks Fortrose bay, we set to with doing a wash. No hand washing in a bucket today for Angela. After two and a half weeks on the road she got to use a washing machine, and tumble dryer. Bliss. Our reason for returning here to Fortrose was to see the dolphins arriving on the evening tide. Sadly this evening, after spending more than two hours waiting on the shore in a biting wind, they did not materialise.

 Oh well, that's just how it goes with wildlife. Fortunately, we did see them when we visited here three years ago, and in Tobermory harbour a few days ago. With a few more weeks until we need to return home, we have no need to rush. Hopefully the weather will now settle, and we'll be able to walk out more, beginning tomorrow with the fairy glen walk at nearby Rosemarkie.

Castle Roy, Nethy Bridge

Last night's spot was popular, even after dark another van appeared. Earplugs were in order though, the nearby river Tummel was flowing fast, and the noise of it roaring and bouncing over the rocks was deafening. This morning, all changed, the sun was out. How long had we waited, no rain, no wind, just nice settled weather, thank god, for that, today was going to be a good day for us and the walkers we'd seen looking deflated yesterday. Not wanting to drive back into the bad weather, we decided to stay in the east and travel up through the Cairngorm national park. Last time we took the road up, it was wet, so it was lovely today to be rewarded with stunning views of the mountains.

Tonight's stop between Castle Roy and the Kirk at Nethy Bridge, known as the forest village in the national park.

For anyone passing this way, the tearoom serves a very nice cheese scone. All these treats most days are probably not good for our waistlines, but oh boy, they taste good.

Life in Marge has been more pleasant these last couple of days, it seems unimaginable now that we have been held prisoner in her because of the appalling weather, those days of wind and heavy rain seems like a bad dream, fingers crossed we won't have to experience it anymore this trip. Tomorrow we are heading up to the coast, there's a small campsite we wish to return to for a special reason, and that's to see the Moray Firth dolphins. All quiet at the castle tonight, we think it'll be just us here, but who knows, we are only a few miles from the A9 heading towards Inverness, where the NC50O drive officially begins, we've driven this route twice in both directions and don't feel we need to again. After spending time at Fortrose we will slowly head back south. That's one of the plus points of being retired, you can just bumble about, doing what you want to do, when you want to do it, and how you want to do it. Sounds good to us.

A few more mushrooms NOT to eat.

Jack O Lantern - Will meet you feel very ill for around 24 hours.

Brown Roll Rim - can be very serious, and can be lethal from kidney failure. 

Fly Agaric - may make you be sick, and cause hallucinations.

Linn of Tummel car park, Pitlochry, Perthshire

What a relief, the night passed without a hoolie blowing and just a little rain. Although we didn't want to leave the island of Mull, we knew we'd made the right decision. Life in Marge when it was so wet, day after day, did not make for comfortable living, or good relations. Before leaving this morning, Angela walked up to the castle, the shifting light making for some fantastic photographs of the mountains.

To park at the castle a fee of ten pounds was payable, but no one came to collect it, so a result there. We needed to make a plan, if only a loose one. A thirty minute drive took us to the Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum, which if anyone is interested, is for sale due to the present owners retiring. Tyndrum is on the West Highland Way, route. When we arrived there were quite a few walkers there, most quite young. They looked, a sorry bunch, and we felt for them. Some looked broken. Tired, emotional, wet and deflated with nasty blisters. Being young they had physical energy, but with age comes resilience, which they were lacking. But who were we to judge, we'd opted out of doing the walk because of the weather, at least these guys were giving it a go. Tomorrow's weather in Scotland is going to be amazing, and we hope this dry sunny day will give these young walkers the boost they deserve to complete the walk, they still have forty six miles to go. After looking at the weather forecast the next few days, we decided not to drive south towards England, but over to the eastern side of Scotland. Rain showers passed over us on the way, but the sun broke the cloud just as much. The air felt fresher, and the light seemed brighter with the cloud higher in the sky.

So after a quick stop at Killin to see the Falls of Dochart we drove in the direction of Pitlochry. Three years ago we were able to park in the town centre car park, but due to the few, not behaving correctly, all vans are now banned. So the nearest free spot is at the Falls of Tummel car park, which is proving to be very popular. Marge even got to meet a fellow pop-top Landrover Defender, from Germany.

Tonight, we are quite the mix of travellers, English and German. It seems a little strange now being away from the coast, but for John, this area is one of his happy places, there are fungi to be foraged, and eaten, some Amathys Deceivers to go into his breakfast omelette. As we sit tonight all cosy in Marge with our heater to warm us, we think of the walkers we saw earlier. You've got this, just think of the achievement you'll feel when you reach Fort William.

Don't try one of these at home, the aptly named Death Cap mushroom, guaranteed death as the name implies over an extended period unless you can arrange an emergency liver transplant! Very pretty, but please leave it alone.