Sunday, 27 September 2026

Old abandoned Falls of Measach car park, near Ullapool

Last night, just us in Marge, and three men in tents who pitched in the sand dunes to protect themselves from the wind. Today was forecast to be extremely wet from ten this morning, so we were packed up and ready to leave just after nine thirty, when a little drizzle misted the windscreen. As we drove, the rain intensified a little, but not enough to be considered a cloudburst, like we experienced daily on the isle of Mull. The changeable weather toyed with us, should we detour and revisit the mountain Stac Polliadh, or not? The rain cleared, and we decided to go for it. Since our last visit a few years ago, the parking area has been increased, you can no longer stay overnight, and daytime parking, no other options for a campervan is a whopping ten pounds or eight pounds for a car! That must be one expensive car parking area we all need to pay for. However, we weren't here to park, just to view for old times sake, and in our book, you can do that for free. Back in the day, we walked a fair way up the mountain, Angela bailing out, when the climb began to become more of a scramble, whilst John carried on to the top. As with most days in Scotland, one minute you're reaching for an umbrella, the next sunglasses.



Stac Polliadh delivered, standing proud in the autumn light. Just as we left the cloud began to draw across the top, and the drizzly rain reappeared. We then drove through the mountains towards Ullapool, considered a large hub in the area, complete with a Tesco, we marvelled at the scenery along the way.






The Highlands are just stunning, the views are as seen in a guide book for the area, and we were driving through them, it felt very special. Ullapool is a small port town, from where the ferry sails to Stornoway, on the isle of Lewis.





There were plenty of campervans and motorhomes there. Tesco was fully stocked with bottled water and baby wipes, the van travellers two essential items when in these parts. After a walk around and a fantastic fish and chip lunch it was time to find an overnight stop.

The one in a wooded area Angela had found was not suitable, as the rain had saturated the ground and made it too muddy, so we moved on to a layby set back from the road near Corrieshalloch Gorge and the Falls of Measach. Opposite us was a hole through a gap in the bushes where you can access the gorge, for free, so we did! It was late afternoon, and  the crowds of the day were long dispersed.






The damp environment was perfect for fungi, and John picked hedgehog mushrooms, the largest we'd ever seen.

So tonight we are parked on the roadside, last night, beach side, tomorrow who knows? Back in Ullapool there were at least thirty vans parked for the night in the Tesco carpark, well each to their own. The only mushrooms to be had there come in  plastic containers. Tomorrow we continue south, no doubt driving through yet more jaw dropping scenery.

Saturday, 26 September 2026

Clashnessie Bay Beach, Assynt

Thanks to our noisy neighbours in the van next to us, we were up early this morning. We've been away for over three weeks now, and fortunately this is the first time we've been irritated by the people in the van next to us. Hopefully that'll be it for this trip. When we make our plans they are always loose, so today we didn't visit the mountain Stac Polliadh, but drove to Lochinver instead, home of the Lochinver pie shop, a must visit establishment for the very best pies.



And they were, with so many to choose from, savoury and sweet, we bought a fisherman's and a steak and ale for lunch. It was true, these were the very best pies! As we now find ourselves up in the north West Highlands, we thought we'd visit some of the beautiful white sand beaches. Clachtol being one of them.





Despite a strong onshore wind the rolling waves and fast moving clouds made for great photography. With the change of seasons, comes the colours of autumn which provide stunning scenery and incredible views. Yes it's cold, but also sunny, so wrapped up warm we took the chance today to walk on beaches and visit a waterfall.



The best waterfall so far at Clashnessie, where we are staying tonight right opposite the beach. We even saw a young couple having wedding photos taken on the beach.




Tomorrow's weather seems a little unsettled, but that's no bother. When it rains, waterfalls come alive, mist transforms the mountains, and the colours intensify. The best memories aren't always made in sunshine.

What the internet says about Clashnessie

Clashnessie is a tiny, historic crofting township located in the wild Assynt district of west Sutherland, along the dramatic north-west coast of Scotland. The name comes from the Scottish Gaelic Clais an Easaidh, which translates beautifully to the "glen of the waterfall".

The Crofting Community

The Settlement: The village consists of just 19 widely scattered houses spread over roughly a square mile. About half of these are original or rebuilt 19th-century crofters' cottages.

The History: Walking through the area, you can still spot the ruined stone walls of unmortared blackhouses. These were built by the original families who were forced to the coast from the more fertile interior during the Highland Clearages.

The Climate: Despite sitting far north, its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean's Gulf Stream grants it a surprisingly mild micro-climate.

Top Natural Attractions

Clashnessie Bay Beach: A spectacular, north-facing beach known for its fine white sand (which occasionally displays a unique ochre or red tinge) and striking turquoise waters. It is safe for family bathing and offers a great view back across the ancient coastal landscape.

Clashnessie Falls: A dramatic 15-metre (50-foot) waterfall that tumbles over ancient metamorphic rock. Depending on recent rainfall, it can transform from an elegant white veil into a roaring, coffee-coloured torrent.

Visiting Details

The Hike: The trail to the falls starts near the free beach parking area. It is a short but notoriously boggy, muddy, and rocky route that takes about 15 to 20 minutes each way.

The Terrain: You will need solid waterproof hiking boots or wellies. The path requires crossing the Clashnessie Burn via stepping stones, which can sometimes submerge after heavy rainfall.

Location: It is a popular, scenic detour for travelers exploring the famous North Coast 500 (NC500) route, situated just off the twisty, single-track B869 coastal road.

Friday, 25 September 2026

Knockan Crag Nature Trail, North West Highlands

Today is a monumental day. Thanks to all the Marges, and the trips we've taken without them, today's blog will be number, one thousand. Eight years ago, the day after Angela's mum's funeral we set off to Europe in our first ever camper van, Marge (1), named after Angela's mum, Margery. The idea of the blog was to keep our family informed as to where we were, and that we were safe. After, not so long, we realised that one day, we might like to, or need to look back at the memories we are creating now. Today we wonder, what will the older John and Angela think when they take a trip down memory lane in years to come when re-reading these pages? Because of the importance of the day, it just couldn't be any old day. This morning, we left a rainy Helmsdale and headed west through the hills and mountains, alongside rivers and woodlands.

A stop at Rosewall woodland walk for a break, before heading on to   Knockan Crag, our chosen overnight spot for today. Knockan Crag is recognised for the extraordinary layers of rock beneath the feet, and the world class scenery and stunning views of the western Highlands. Although a little windy, we positioned Marge into it, and settled in. Whilst preparing lunch, a young couple in land rover 90 pulled in next to us. The two black vehicles looked good together.

Needing to mark the day with something exciting, we decided to take the circular walk up and over the top of the crag. How difficult could it be? Well not so bad, until the wind got up. Angela, as you know and heights don't mix, and they certainly don't mix when strong wind is added into the mix. 







So after some time of walking uphill, the wind doing its best to sweep us off our feet, we felt the walk might not be for us older folk. Back at the car park, we decided to set off again on another path that looked easier.








By taking our time, we reached the viewpoint at the top, and wow, the views were amazing! Now to get Angela back down. John asked if she was terrified, no she wasn't, just apprehensive. On a scale of one to ten, probably a fear factor of seven. Sometimes, you just have to do these things, life's short, you don't want to look back with regret. So thank you Marge's for the journeys, and the memories, let's hope we have many more years together.


What the internet says about Knockan Crag Nature Reserve

The Knockan Crag Nature Trail is a world-famous, geologically significant hiking route located within the Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve in Assynt, Scotland. This trail is celebrated for showcasing the Moine Thrust, where two ancient continents crashed millions of years ago, forcing older rock layers directly on top of younger ones—a discovery that revolutionized global scientific understanding in the 19th century.

Trail Overview & Statistics

The main loop, known as the Crag Trail, is a beautifully managed loop perfect for families, nature lovers, and casual hikers alike.
Distance: 1.3 miles (2 km)
Time Required: Approximately 1 hour (add 20–30 minutes to read the displays)
Elevation Gain: 436 feet (185 m)
Difficulty: Moderate (features steep, rocky steps at the start to assist with the incline, with loose gravel in places)

Key Highlights

Outdoor Geology Exhibits: The trail acts as an interactive museum. It includes well-placed informational panels, a "pipe rock" display, and a famous interactive globe sculpture.

Art & Poetry: Hikers can discover unique stone sculptures and evocative poetry by Norman MacCaig beautifully carved directly into the local stone.

Spectacular Views: Reaching the top rewards you with breathtaking, panoramic viewpoints looking out over the wild, dramatic landscape of Assynt's mountains and expansive lakes.

Amenities: The reserve offers a free parking lot, clean public toilets, picnic areas, and an indoor pavilion with exhibits. It is also completely dog-friendly.

Tips for Visiting
The trail is narrow and can get slick when wet, so sturdy footwear is highly recommended. High winds are common at the cliff edge, and if you are visiting during the summer months, be sure to bring insect repellent to guard against Highland midges.