Loch na Keal, Isle of Mull

Yesterday was a waterfall today, today rainbows. And to create rainbows, what do you need, sunshine and rain, of which there was plenty.

 Today, a visit to Tobermory. When the rain gets you down, and the thought of hiking in it depresses you, Tobermory is the place to decamp to. From Lochbuie, for Marge,  it's a drive of around an hour and a half.

Today was much longer as after a stop at the Spar in Salen, just outside the village the traffic began to build up.

The reason, a tree had fallen onto a van and the power cable opposite.  Hopefully the van driver was O.K. After some time the men from Scottish power cleared the tree and the road opened. There aren't many roads here on Mull, and this particular one is the main road to Tobermory. Some people were impatient about having to wait for the clearance, but hey, that tree could have fallen onto any of our vehicles, thank god we stopped at the village shop, Marge might have clocked it! Last time we arrived at Tobermory it was heaving, today not so. The persistent showers have either driven people off the island or just kept them inside.

So it was easy to park in Marge, before setting off to 'Hooked' for a lunch of their homemade haddock fishcakes, of which you are given two, with either a choice of salad or chips. We think they are the best fishcakes we've ever eaten. Sorry The Fish Plaice in Swanage, yours are excellent as well, but these pip you at the post. No photos of lunch, but we spotted this in Hooked!

As another day draws to a close, Angela is still unwell, which she's really fed up about. A decision needs to be made about our west highland way walk. Is it a good idea for her to exert herself, then spend the nights in a tent in the cold and wet? We're now sat at Loch na Keal in a new spot for us trying to make some decisions. 

We think the warm weather we experienced from April to early September whilst on our travels has spoiled us. Did we complain at times it was too hot? Surely not. Well at this moment in time, a little bit of warm sunshine and no rain really appeals. What do you think Marge, should we head for the sun?

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

Who knew today would turn out to be a 'waterfall day. With so much rain recently they were positively gushing. Last night's rain was miserable, as was the wind. Packing up at Fidden Farm this morning was a challenge. Nobody likes to be wet. But as we drove back through the Ross of Mull the cloud slung low, began to lift so we were able to take in the magnificent views. After some googling it seemed returning to Lochbuie would be our best option. The rain was forecast for all day and night, but the winds appeared to be lighter there, so that's where we headed. Honestly Mull, where's this terrible weather coming from you're throwing at us. We couldn't believe yesterday was so stunningly beautiful. Despite the miserable drive, we were rewarded with the sighting of deer as we approached Lochbuie.

A wet Lochbuie would be unappealing to some, but we know the place so it's easy to see the beauty through the murk. Marge was positioned in her usual area, and we just sat out the weather. Angela hasn't been very well since just after we arrived on the island. She has a terrible cold, not surprising considering the inclement weather, so a day just sitting suited her. The main season here has come to an end, but there are still plenty of visitors. More visitors bring more inexperienced drivers when it comes to single track roads with passing places. You just have to be patient with these novices. Stopping for people along these roads is usually rewarded with a wave. One finger lifted from the steering wheel is usually, two fingers lifted acceptable, a full wave considered to show you are overly excited probably because you've just seen your first Highland Coo!

Fidden Farm Campsite, Fionnphort (day 2)

Yesterday evening's beautiful sunset was followed by a bright clear start this morning. The weather settled, with no rain forecast we dealt with our chores before walking down to Fionnphort to catch the short ferry crossing to the tiny island of Iona.

We visited here a few years ago, and the weather was warm, just as it was today. The weather in Scotland messes with your head. How can it be so glorious one day, and horrible the next? The island of Iona is famous for its beautiful restored medieval abbey and white sand beaches. Around 130,000 visitors visit each year, and today we became two of that number. Most of today's visitors seemed to be American.

 Finding a quiet spot in the garden of the Argyll Hotel overlooking the Sound of Iona towards Mull, just one mile away, we unpacked our lunch. Angela bought drinks from the bar and we settled down to a relaxed Sunday afternoon whilst enjoying warm sunshine and incredible views. Once again the weather had, delivered, we couldn't have wished for better.

Reluctant to leave our 'seats with a view', we walked up to the ruins of the medieval nunnery and then to the nearby graveyard where the John Smith, leader of the Labor party for almost two years before his untimely death, is buried.

As the sun warmed us, Angela felt an ice cream was in order. It might now be autumn, but sun and warmth in September equals late summer in her books. Our brief visit to Iona, over, we boarded the return ferry. Back at Marge John sorted out wood to cook the local venison sausages we bought a few days ago. The wind up, a chill returned to the air. Our spot on the campsite is right by the sea. As the tide crept in, John spotted a small, slender dark chocolate brown animal scuttling in and around the nearby granite rocks. Was it a small otter? No, it was an American mink! What a sighting, our first ever mink, what a perfect end to the day.

Fidden Farm Campsite, Fionnphort

What a miserable night! As forecast the rain began falling heavily at two this morning and didn't relent until about eight. Outside Marge's back door was a large puddle. We have never experienced rain like it whilst visiting Mull. We could only hope the promised settled weather this afternoon would materialize. Whilst we're here, Angela wants us once again to visit the tiny island of Iona, just off the south western tip of Mull.

So full of optimism for an improving picture we packed up a soggy Marge and began the long drive to Fiannophort, where we would stay once again on the Fidden Farm campsite. As we trundled along wet roads, the views obscured by low clouds we could only hope Mull would deliver on the weather.

Quite often here a day starts wet and ends with beautiful sunshine, so fingers crossed. With such high precipitation these last few days the waterfalls that streaked down the mountains, visible through the cloud dropped almost vertically, the waters bouncing down towards the plunge pools below. Booking in at the farm campsite Angela mentioned the deluge we'd experienced last night as was told by the lady attending to her that Lochbuie, where we'd stayed was the wettest place on the island last night. Let's hope all is calm tonight. This area of ​​Mull is renowned for being windy, so Angela has been monitoring the weather to make sure all would be calm on our visit here. As promised the sun saw off the clouds and the afternoon weather delivered. We walked out around the beach collecting shells with the farm cat following John everywhere.

Angela spotted a seal out on one of the rocks, and we watched it until the rising tide prompted it to slip into the oily black sea water.

Shortly after we spotted another. This evening the tide was high, almost lapping at Marge's wheels, we watched the sun go down.

The light was stunning, what a difference to the gloomy start to the day this morning. That's Mull for you, it's full of surprises!

Click on the seal photo to watch a video of the seal on our YouTube channel.