Asilah, Morocco

We did not travel on to Fez today. We have come to the realization that being here in Morocco in the low season, albeit the temperatures have been in the high thirties, that we are just bumbling around. The experience we were hoping for really is more accessible during the winter months, high season here, when temperatures are lower and there are many more visitors. At this time it will be safer to wild camp. On this trip we have had to ensure every night we have security watching us. In the season, in the country and desert areas there will be safety in numbers. Therefore we will return here later in the year, or early next year. So for now we've decided to move back to the coast. At first we thought about stopping again at the homestay we enjoyed at Moulay-Bousselham, but in reflection although we'd enjoyed it there, the area was, well to be honest not the best. Lots of rubbish and once away from the homestay we felt vulnerable. So it was decided we'd drive for a few hours longer and return to Asilah. The campsite at Asilah was where we stayed the first two nights in Morocco, and we liked it. The town was interesting and we found it relaxing. On the way across from Meknes we were surprised to find ourselves in a thriving agricultural area.

It felt unreal to still be in Morocco, we could have been in France or Spain. All the towns we passed through were full of life. Stalls of colourful fruit and vegetables, alongside others selling household items. Here, if you want to buy something, you visit a market or the Souk. And in amongst all the bustle, we stumbled upon a very smart cafe.

Tea and coffee just £1.76. We are going to find the European countries we drive through on our way home very expensive after being here. After changing our travel plans, we left the potholed national highway, with some holes so large we could have lost Marge in them, and headed to the toll road. Now here we are back in Asilah where we will stay for two nights. Angela hasn't slept well whilst in Morocco.

Her best nights sleep was here at Asilah, so she's looking forward to some much needed rest. This evening a meal in town, expensive for what it was by Moroccan standards. As the sun went down this evening, a sunset of black and red smeared across the sky. The temperature a comfortable 26c. Our time in Morocco isn't over yet, but now we feel we can slow down and relax a little more.

Avenue Bab Marrah, Meknes (Morocco 50030)

Delicious as last night's meal out had been, it had been a little on the spicy side, and contained whole chickpeas which don't agree with Angela. So before we were ready to leave this morning we popped to the nearby Carrefour supermarket to stock up on loo rolls! When we embarked on our journey to Morocco, Angela read on the Internet it wouldn't be easy to buy toilet paper. Funnily enough, it's available everywhere. There was no need for us to pack Marge to the gunnels with it when we left Spain. Another day, another toll road. They make for a faster journey, and don't shake Marge about so much as some of the other roads here. Another plus is, we get to stop at service areas for food and drink. The prices at the service areas here are no more expensive than anywhere else, and that includes the fuel. Talking of fuel, Marge is living the dream. The cost of the 'good stuff', is around £1.20 a litre, so we're making sure she's given plenty of it. By the time we return home her engine should be as clean as a whistle. Our destination today, Meknes, a former imperial city. Our overnight parking, right by the entrance to the Royal Golf Course, so plenty of security for us and Marge. Across the road, The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail.

Entering the main gateway we did not expect to be visiting such a stunning building. The architecture tasteful and beautiful. White marble columns, hand cut geometric tiling, huge wooden doors and colourful prayer mats. The cost to visit, nothing. Free, gratis. We are around eighty miles inland from the coast now, and the increase in temperature is noticeable, although it is slightly cooler than England. Despite the heat we walked around the Medina. Angela is beginning to feel she's had her fill of medinas.

This evening as the sun slipped away, a sky of rose and magenta back lit Marge. A cool breeze blew for the first time since we arrived in Morocco, it was most welcome.

Tomorrow Marge a short drive on to Fez, and sorry Angela, no doubt another Medina!

From yesterday's end of the blog photo, the front bumper had been tie wrapped back on by this morning!

Rabat, Angle de Rue Pakistan et Avenue d'Egypte (Morocco 10040)

TextYesterday had been a long day. John spent many hours at the wheel, which here can be very stressful as the quality of the Moroccans driving is appalling, and dangerous. Although we liked staying at Camping L'Ocesn Blue, we were mindful that if we drove all the way to Meknes from here it would mean another long drive for John, so we decided to just move an hour down the road to Rabat, a city we liked when we visited just over two weeks ago. Starting our journey from here tomorrow made more sense. As in all cities the traffic was manic, honestly you'd need to witness it for yourself to believe it. As we approached the parking area by the walls of the Medina, Marge was surrounded by taxis driven by impatient drivers, sounding their horns and dodging  in and out around us. In the mayhem it seemed John drove Marge a little over a double white line. We have lost count of the number of police checkpoints we've passed through here without incident. Today was our unlucky day, a policeman was stood close by. His command of the English language was nil! Our command of his French was little better. We understood that John would be fined 400MD, about £32.00, which he contested stating the taxi drivers caused the manoeuvre. The policeman just kept repeating himself, and we kept shrugging our shoulders. In the end, he realized we'd got the jist of what he was saying, and reduced the fine to 150MD, warning us to be careful of staying in our lane. He was happy, pocketing our money, we were a little disgruntled about the fine, but decided it was part of our journey. Honestly, if you could see the condition of a majority of the cars on the road here, you'd be shocked. They are literally held together with tape and tie wraps.

This evening, after a couple of lazy hours resting in Marge we walked the cities streets. We love how a Medina comes to life in the evenings. Unlike Marrekech, Rabat is more laid back, and has a pretty waterfront.

We weren't pestered to buy from stall holders or eat in any particular restaurant. Since last night's blog, John is on the look out for a Berber hat for Angela. Just one problem, her head is child size. But we will keep looking. Angela knows the style she wants, John however thinks the more ridiculous the better! Our restaurant of choice this evening was selected by Angela. who read on the Internet the food was both good and cheap. As always local people were eating in it, always a good sign. So one Moroccan soup, and two chicken and vegetable couscous dishes, with drinks set us back around £12.00. It so cheap to eat out here, we're wondering why we're bothering to cook. Tomorrow, Marge we travel inland to Meknss. Tonight, a treat for her.

Another overland vehicle is parked here with us, albeit a lot larger! We are all on a journey, however we are travelling. Tomorrow we will. 'hit the iron's', as they say here, or 'Carp Diem', seize the day as we say in England.

Camping l'Océan Bleu, Mohammedia (Morocco 20800)

Marrekech wasn't the city we expected it to be. On the Internet some people thought the constant pestering in the square was annoying and intimidating. We didn't find the stall holders in the Souk pushy, or the guys touting for business at the food stalls on the square too annoying. However the food guys were funny. John told some of them last night we'd already eaten, they said to Angela, he needed more food as he was too skinny! Sales patter at its best. Despite their persistence they accepted defeat with good humour, and sayings such as, 'happy wife, happy life', and their favourite, 'lovely jubbly'. At the end of the day they were all trying to earn a living, as was the old guy in the secure parking area we were staying in. Every morning he cleared all the rubbish dropped in the car park, and was happy to take away our bin bag for us. By the entrance to the parking was a toilet. John suggest Angela give it a wide berth, but he used it regularly. He was shocked to discover that the man tidying the car park lived in the toilet block spendingmuch of his time flat out on the floor! So this morning when we left we gave him some money. Life is very, very hard for some people here. Just after nine, it was already too hot. Today was going to be a scorcher. After wasting time looking for a supermarket we set off. The drive today would be long, and as it turned out very boring. The toll road makes for a faster journey, but the relentless droaning of Marges tyres on the tarmac, and the unchanging view of freshly harvested corn fields made the journey monotonous.

We stopped twice, the second time the men selling local wares were on us before we'd even parked Marge. They were persistent, even after we politely refused to buy from them. One was selling straw hats, as worn by the Berber community here. Secretly, Angela would love one of these, but couldn't see herself getting away wearing it outside of Morocco. Late afternoon we arrived back on the Atlantic coast and at Camping L'Ocean Blue.

We couldn't believe we'd stayed here two weeks ago, it seemed so much longer. First job for Angela was to catch up on her washing. It is not so warm here, and she is hoping everything will be dry by the morning. Interestingly, of the four vehicles in our area, three have black bras hanging on their washing lines. Let's hope it's not some sort of campsite code!