Thame, Oxfordshire

Yesterday had been a difficult day. John was exhausted from the long drive from Oban to Kendal. With a few hundred miles to drive again today we left this morning at nine, stopping at the Lancaster services for a Greggs breakfast. Fortunately the roads were running freely. At the service area on the M6 toll Angela took over the driving. She had not driven the landrover for two years, and was now used to driving our VW camper with an automatic gearbox. After a couple of hiccups, John telling her with urgency to put her foot on the clutch as she nearly took out the barrier at the toll booth. After that all went well. She just needed a little practice. Our drive home today had turned into a mission. Angela had dislodged a large filling whilst eating chicken yesterday evening. Her dentist in High Wycombe had an appointment available just before five this afternoon so we pressed on making the appointment with half an hour to spare. Back at home Margery was unresponsive. Her vehicle battery totally dead. Fortunately we could unlock her manually. So it was Muddy Marge to the rescue with a jump start. And then a run out. She seems fine for now, but we have the battery charge connected just to be sure, and this morning we ordered an AA 13 watt solar battery charger to sit on her dashboard to keep her battery topped up whilst we're away. There's a saying. 'Events happen in life for a reason'. Our Scotland trip curtailed means we now have the opportunity to go on another even bigger adventure! Sorry Margery, you're not coming along with us on this one either. Morocco, requires Muddy Marge! So followers, stay with us. Our trip begins early next week.

Kendal, Lake District

Hang on, you might well ask. Why are you tonight in the Lake District, and last night you were out on the Outer Hebridean island of Vatersay. Well, we think Margery may be a little put out that we've left her at home and gone  away in Muddy Marge. Late yesterday afternoon her vehicle alarm set off for around twenty minutes. Because of the intermittent mobile signal out on the islands, we didn't see the message from our next door neighbour to tell us until around nine in the evening. Long story short, we are in possession of the vehicle keys, a spare set wasn't accessible for Angela's son to take a look. At this moment in time she hasn't thrown another wobbly, but we couldn't risk it happening again. Our neighbours were probably not best pleased. So late last night we managed to book ourselves on the early morning sailing from Barra back to Oban. And early it certainly was.

We were up at four-thirty, away by five-thirty with only the sheep to see us off.

As we drove along the narrow roads we felt sad our Scottish adventure had been curtailed. Last check in for the ferry was five to six, we couldn't be late. So as the sun rose over Castlebay, the vessel slipped its berth and we began the start of what would be a very long day.

Fortunately, despite spending six hours on board the trip across was calm, unlike our journey over. The wind of the last few days had abated, the sky once again postcard blue.

On the approach to Oban we were informed there would be a lifeboat practice, which we watched, glad it wasn't a real evacuation. Marge second vehicle off the ferry at Oban headed south with a purpose. The road wound through the mountains, pine trees carpeted their slopes with a pallet of greens, and then the waters of Loch Lomond, sparkling and dancing in the sunlight. We stopped for lunch at The Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum where we bought hot scotch pies, John's dad would have loved them as they were his favourites. We needed comfort food in abundance.

Our original plan was to stop overnight at the Corner Campsite near to Dumfries, but on reflection John thought it best not to divert and carry on down to the Lake District.

We made sure we stopped regularly, it being many hours since we got up after only a few hours sleep.

Eventually we arrived at Kendal around seven. It was now fourteen hours since we'd set off.

So here we are at Kendal Cricket club, a favourite stopover of ours. A chinese take away purchased we reflected on the last twenty four hours. This is the third time now something has happened whilst we've been away and we've had to return early. Let's hope it will be the last. Hopefully Margery's problem will be just a low battery and can be easily rectified, so we can pack up and set off again in a few days. As inconvenient as this all is, it is what it is. That's life for you!

Vatersay, Outer Hebrides (day 4)

This morning John was out of sorts, so Angela wrapped up and walked out along the beach and around the headland at the end of the beach that faces north. As clouds rolled across the normally stunning turquoise waters turned dark and moody.

The wind a little stronger again today made for difficult walking, but she persisted. The tiny yellow primroses that covered the hills here clung on, shaking in the wind. On the return to Marge she crossed the road and walked back via the beach that is more sheltered. Here the sand on the shore washed clean from the tide, smooth and inviting to walk along. But once again care must be taken for it is very soft. Angela loves this beach, especially the way the wind has sculptured the sand dunes.

Today being Sunday there has been hardly anyone around. The cafe is closed and the cold wind is keeping people away, so for most of the day it's been just us and a lone cyclist who arrived yesterday. His friend is due to arrive on this evenings six o'clock ferry from Oban having missed yesterday's as his train connection in Glasgow was delayed. We have a feeling he will have wished he hadn't missed that sailing yesterday, the wind today will make for a rough crossing. The wind had it's uses though. It pushed the dark clouds up over the mountains towards Castlebay which meant we only experienced a few brief light showers. This afternoon another walk out for Angela up onto one of the other headlands.

This one a little more difficult, requiring a little scrambling. All good practice for our West Highland Way walk. This evening the sun is shining, lighting the small cruise boat that is sheltering in the bay. We don't envy the people on it, riding the waves in today's wind. So tonight we will batten down the hatches. We feel Marge may be rockin' and rolling a little. 

Vatersay, Outer Hebrides (day 3)

Yet another blue sky morning. The wind cool, but still perfect conditions to do a wash. Today was also the day to try out the showers here. One pound gives you two minutes under a shower that takes thirty seconds for the water to warm. If you think two minutes isn't enough time to take a shower, throw this into the mix. You insert the pound coin into a slot around the corner from the shower and the water starts to flow. Miraculously Angela managed to undress and shower in the two minutes. So a lazy morning, whiling away the time sorting out in Marge and chatting with Heather our neighbour who'd decided today after her walk, and a last cup of tea with us, to pack up and move a little way along the coast to a campsite.

 After lunch we spoke to a man who unloaded a beautifully crafted coracle he'd built from his campervan, not something we expected to see on this trip, before setting off to a free spot a little further up on Barra.

Settling Marge we walked out onto the beach, a little concerned about a sign alerting us to quicksand.

Keeping to the edge we soon discovered an abundance of sea glass which we begin to gather for John's project. After the beautiful park up of the last two nights this new place wasn't doing it for us, so we decided to drive around the island checking out the other areas.

It was lovely driving the islands roads, quiet, late in the day with the sun warming us through the windscreen.

At Barra airport we stopped a while to look at the vast beach runway where two flights arrive from Glasgow each day. Time now getting on, we decided to return to Vatersey where we've spent the last two nights. It really is the only place to stay, with the stunning views and excellent facilities. Not to be beaten. Angela's up for another two minutes shower dash!

Vatersay, Outer Hebrides (day 2)

After yesterday's uncomfortable sailing stomachs are a little more settled today. Once again another beautiful sunny day in Scotland. The wind during the night was fierce, but this morning all the small tents around us were still in place. Muddy Marge had stood fast. There's no moving her. We decided we would stay here tonight once again, as did the lady next to us. Why wouldn't we? It's so peaceful here, and the views are absolutely stunning. We thought the island of Mull was a little slice of heaven, Vatersey has taken it up a notch. Unlike Mull there a very few birds, and we are missing the sounds of early morning brought to us from the oyster catchers, plovers, seagulls, sheep and that annoying cuckoo! We are however enjoying the whistle of the curlews.

Not really sure how much to wrap up, we walked out down onto bright white sandy beach, a few footprints already marked a path along the shore. John collected some small colourful shells, and sea glass for a future project. After leaving the beach we climbed the hill at the end of the bay passing by some sombre looking cows with their adorable calves. 

One of the cows stared at us with a very judgemental stare. So we passed by quickly. The views from the too of the hill were breathtaking.Vatersay is the southernmost inhabited island in the outer Hebrides.

Up on top of the hill the stunning white-sand beaches and waters more turquoise from above took our breath away. After descending the hill we crossed the sand dunes, stopping at the Annie Jane memorial, erected in memory of the people aboard this ship when it was shipwrecked on the nearby rocks back in 1853.⁸

Back at Marge, more conversation with our neighbour. It's great being part of this type of travelling community. People who love nature, and want to camp at idyllic spots. We all feel comfortable in each other's company. We are happy to ask for help, give advice, suggest and receive recommendations of places to visit.

After lunch another short walk along the road to the Catalina memorial site. In 1944 the plane crashed after flying off course during a night-time navigation exercise. Three of the nine crew were killed. All very sad. Tomorrow we are going to drive the short distance to Barra. A big thank you to the community of Vatersey for providing overnight parking for visiting vans, an excellent cafe, clean toilets and showers.We are excited about exploring Barra, and are hopeful the good weather we've experienced whilst being in Scotland will continue.