Loch na Keal, Isle of Mull

After yesterday's dreadful weather we were looking forward to today. First thing of course it was raining, so we packed up straight after breakfast by which time the rain had eased and the cloud began too thin. John didn't feel well, he felt sick, just as he did yesterday. But after some paracetamol and a little food he felt able to drive to Tobermory. As we left Lochbuie, we saw the men heading out to cull the deer, sadly a task they must do.

In a field some 'bambi's' nibbled at the grass, Angela felt sad that their days may be numbered. The eight mile drive along a narrow road alongside the loch and up through temperate rain forest Angela loves, she always takes photographs as the changing seasons make for different views. As we approached Tobermory, the sun broke through. What a difference a day makes.

Showers, shared fishcakes and chips lunch before a walk around the town. We are not sure how long we will stay on Mull, as there is a car rally on this coming weekend which will involve some road closures. Also, this evening a message that John's daughter is in hospital, so we think we may need to head down to visit her, just waiting for more news.

What the internet says about where we are spending tonight. 

Key Features of Loch na Keal around Dhiseig

Dhiseig is a scenic stopping point on the northern shore of Loch na Keal on the Isle of Mull, best known as the main starting location for climbing Ben More, the island's only Munro (a mountain over 3,000 feet).

Ben More Access: A small parking area off the B8035 near Dhiseig gives direct access to the steep, rewarding southern/northern ascent routes up Ben More (966 meters or 3,169 feet). Parking spaces here are very limited and fill up quickly by mid-morning.

Stunning Views: From the shoreline near Dhiseig, you look across the deep salt-water loch toward the towering volcanic cliffs of Gribun and the dramatic slopes of the Ardmeanach peninsula.

Wildlife Watching: The area is a prime location to spot the Isle of Mull's famous wildlife. Look out for white-tailed sea eagles hunting over the water, golden eagles soaring above the crags, seals resting on coastal rocks, and otters along the shore.

The Terrain: Walks and climbs from Dhiseig involve rugged terrain, a mix of boggy grassland, and loose volcanic scree as you head higher up the mountain.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

Three of us in the small woodland parking area last night. Opposite, a very smart set up belonging to a Czechoslovakian couple.

This morning a large motorhome, arrived, determined to park. The woman passenger had the  audacity to point out the sign stated only one vehicle allowed overnight. Well, Madam, it also says, no motorhomes over 7 metres! We think the forestry commission would totally understand why we were all there, the ferry from Kilchoan had broken down and it was a two hour drive to Lochaline to catch another, so early evening we all decided to sit it out. And we don't think they would mind the thirty pounds we paid collectively to stay. Honestly, some people need to get a life! After checking this morning the ferry from Kilchoan had been fixed overnight but the crossing today was likely to be disrupted because of strong winds.

We decided to drive to Lochaline, as did our German neighbours. Although it was a long slow drive, up and over the hills, it was nice to see some beautiful scenery. Even in the rain, oxbow rivers, and trees now in full autumn colours made for a pleasant sight. After a smooth crossing from Lochaline back onto the isle of Mull where the weather was just the same as when we left in mid September, we decided  Lochbuie, under the trees would be our overnight spot.

John doesn't feel well today, so with the rain reluctant to stop, we are spending time cosy in Marge, catching up on missed television. Tomorrow looks like an improving picture, thank goodness. Unfortunately for now it's a case of, when it rains, you just have to let it rain. Remember a few weeks ago when we were praying for some to turn our grass green. The grass is certainly green here in Scotland!

What the internet says about Lochbuie

Lochbuie is a peaceful, remote coastal settlement nestled at the head of Loch Buie on the dramatic south coast of the Isle of Mull. Reached by a long, winding single-track road roughly 14 miles south-west of the Craignure ferry terminal, it feels like a world of its own. Hemmed in by the towering peak of Ben Buie, the area seamlessly blends a rich Highland history with quiet beaches, estate lands, and exceptional wildlife spotting.

Key Historic Landmarks

Lochbuie Stone Circle

This is the only complete stone circle on Mull. Dating back 4,000 to 5,000 years to the late Neolithic or early Bronze Age, the ring consists of granite stones set in a 12-metre circle, with several larger outlying stones nearby. It sits quietly in an open field framed by the mountains.

Moy Castle

Guarding the shoreline is the dramatic, roofless ruin of this 15th-century tower house. Built by the Clan Maclaine of Lochbuie—who held the estate for centuries—it features a 3-meter deep bottle dungeon and holds local legends of a headless horseman. Note: The interior is currently closed to the public due to dangerous masonry.

Lochbuie House & Mausoleum Shrine

Built in the 18th century, Lochbuie House replaced Moy Castle as the grand estate residence. Further along the coastal trail lies the MacLaine Mausoleum, an old chapel converted in 1864 that houses historic clan tombstones.

Nature & Outdoor Activities

Scenic Walks: The area is a haven for hikers. The Lochbuie Explorer Trail is a relatively straightforward, 2-hour circular route that takes in the tiny St. Kilda’s Church, the castle, the beach, and the stone circle. More adventurous walkers can take the coastal path eastward toward the sand and shingle of Laggan Sands, or follow the rugged shoreline trek west to Carsaig.

Wildlife Spotting: Because of its relative isolation, Lochbuie is an incredible vantage point for spotting classic Scottish wildlife. Keep your eyes on the skies for white-tailed sea eagles and golden eagles, or watch the shoreline for seals, otters, and red deer.

Local Hospitality: At the end of the public road sits The Old Post Office Lochbuie. This charming, family-run farm hub and café serves up local produce, hot drinks, soups, sandwiches, and home-baked cakes to refuel walkers.

Practical Tips for Visiting

Footwear: The paths to the sights—especially across the field to the stone circle—cross active farmland and can become exceptionally boggy. Good waterproof hiking boots are a must.

Drive with Care: The dead-end road leading down to Lochbuie is a classic Scottish single-track lane with passing places. Drive slowly, watch for livestock on the road, and use the passing places to let vehicles behind you overtake.

Garbh Eileen Forestry car park, Acharacle

Just four of us at the beach parking last night, which should have made for a peaceful night, except vehicle number four arrived at two-thirty this morning! Not really sure what the weather would be like today we decided to continue with our planned drive down and through Ardnamurchan to the tiny ferry terminal at Kilchoan, where we would take a boat over to Tobermory on the isle of mull. Rather than drive through Glencoe, we wanted a quieter stress less drive so we've decided to island hop instead. The scenery of Ardnamurchan is spectacular, and despite some short passing showers the day was clear. A mix of rain and sun really highlighted the colours of the trees and ferns.  Autumn is a gentle reminder that change can be beautiful. Despite driving Marge, John managed to spot hedgehog and girolle mushrooms along the verges. Of course he had to stop to pick them. Driving the roads of this area takes time, and it was lunchtime before we reached Kilchoan, only to discover the ferry was broken down on the other side at Tobermory.

After waiting some time for an update, the news was not good, it looked like we would now need to sail from Lochaline, over two hours drive away. Feeling tired and a little deflated we parked up at the RSPB car park and took a walk through the Borrowdale Nature Reserve.

The walk was moderate, up a steep incline over slippery rocky steps, and then down along boardwalks and yet more steps. But after sitting in Marge most of the day we were glad to stretch our legs.

Originally planning to stay the night here, we decided to move because of the continuous roar of the nearby waterfall, so we drove on for quite a while to a small forestry park up. There are four of us here, and we have to pay ten pounds each to stay. You must have your own inside toilet, that box ticked, we paid and then walked down to the nearby hide.

Across on the rocks seals almost hidden as their colouring blended into the surrounding landscape. Today has been a long day, but we've enjoyed returning to this area. Onward and upwards tomorrow Marge, remember, it's all about the journey, not the destination.

Morar Beach car park, Mallaig

A night spent in Marge in Portree wasn't ideal, but at least we were out of the wind. As promised the rain fell heavily this morning, with the forecast not looking so good we decided to change our ferry booking and from tomorrow to later this afternoon and return to Mallaig on the mainland. Before leaving the islands we took showers at the Skye Gym. Not cheap at £6.00 each, but we didn't mind, you having the use of a full wet room with a decent thermostatic mixer shower for as long as you wish.

So shopping and showers all done, we drove back to Armadale, the rain clouds never far away.

Heavy rain makes for fantastic waterfalls and dramatic scenery, but unfortunately it also means we can't really walk out as it's difficult to dry wet clothes in Marge.

So early evening we were back on the mainland just a few miles from Mallaig at Morar beach. We've been here twice before and both times the weather has been glorious, sadly not so today.

However, the weather did settle for a while, and we were able to walk out along the white sand beach, stopping for some adult fun along the way. Are you ever too old to have a go on a rope swing?

What the internet has to say about the beaches of Morar and others nearby

The Silver Sands of Morar are a breathtaking, continuous chain of brilliant white-sand beaches interspersed with rocky coves along the west coast of Scotland. Located in Lochaber within the Scottish Highlands—strung along the scenic B8008 coast road between Arisaig and Morar—these beaches are famous for their powder-soft sand (made of crushed quartz and coral) and crystalline, turquoise waters that frequently draw comparisons to the Caribbean.

The spectacular coastline looks directly out onto the Atlantic toward the Inner Hebridean Small Isles of Rum, Eigg, Muck, and Canna, providing some of the most cinematic sunset views in the country.

The Four Main Beaches

While commonly grouped under one title, the "Silver Sands" actually comprise several distinct expanses flanking the tidal mouth and estuary of the River Morar:

Morar Beach & Tougal Beach (Southern Bank): Easily accessible from the main tourist car parks. Tougal Beach boasts a gently sloping shelf of sand facing calmer waters, making it the area's premier spot for safe wild swimming and launching paddleboards or kayaks. The main Morar strand sits right by the river channel.

Bourblach Beach (Northern Bank): Tucked away on the quieter, more remote side of the river. Reached via a boggy but highly scenic walk from Morar village, it offers complete isolation and pristine coastal greenery.

Sgeir Dubh / Black Rock Beach: Punctuated by dark metamorphic rock formations that create an incredible visual contrast with the blindingly white sand, offering a sheltered haven for exploring shallow rock pools.

Camusdarach Beach: Located just a short trek further south down the coast road, this massive crescent beach is physically connected to the network at low tide and features towering sand dunes.

Silver Screen Stardom

If the landscape feels familiar, it is likely because it has played a starring role in cinematic history. The striking white sands and crystalline dunes served as the primary filming location for Bill Forsyth's iconic 1983 comedy-drama Local Hero, starring Burt Lancaster. It also stood in for the historic Highlands backdrop in the 1986 fantasy-action classic Highlander.

What to Do There

Beachcombing & Wading: Low tide uncovers immense sandy flats, linking up tiny islands and exposing fantastic rock pools packed with marine life, ideal for families.

Paddleboarding & Kayaking: Paddling from beach to beach along the estuary is highly popular. The waters are crystal-clear, allowing you to see all the way to the sandy floor below.

Coastal Walking: The area ranks among Britain's finest walking coastlines. You can easily pick up a path from the Walkhighlands Silver Sands Trail Guide to find the secret, secluded pockets of the bay.

Horseback Riding: Local outfits like the Silversands Trekking Centre offer guided horse riding treks directly across the white sands.

Parking & Crowds: Parking is free but highly limited. During peak summer days, the lot fills up quickly, and roadside overflow parking is heavily restricted due to local over-tourism. Visit early in the morning or during the shoulder seasons (spring/autumn) to enjoy the sands in peace.

Getting There: If you aren't driving, the beach is uniquely accessible via public transport. You can ride the world-famous West Highland Line train from Fort William to Morar Station, which leaves you just a short walk from the shoreline.