Castle Roy, Nethy Bridge

Last night's spot was popular, even after dark another van appeared. Earplugs were in order though, the nearby river Tummel was flowing fast, and the noise of it roaring and bouncing over the rocks was deafening. This morning, all changed, the sun was out. How long had we waited, no rain, no wind, just nice settled weather, thank god, for that, today was going to be a good day for us and the walkers we'd seen looking deflated yesterday. Not wanting to drive back into the bad weather, we decided to stay in the east and travel up through the Cairngorm national park. Last time we took the road up, it was wet, so it was lovely today to be rewarded with stunning views of the mountains.

Tonight's stop between Castle Roy and the Kirk at Nethy Bridge, known as the forest village in the national park.

For anyone passing this way, the tearoom serves a very nice cheese scone. All these treats most days are probably not good for our waistlines, but oh boy, they taste good.

Life in Marge has been more pleasant these last couple of days, it seems unimaginable now that we have been held prisoner in her because of the appalling weather, those days of wind and heavy rain seems like a bad dream, fingers crossed we won't have to experience it anymore this trip. Tomorrow we are heading up to the coast, there's a small campsite we wish to return to for a special reason, and that's to see the Moray Firth dolphins. All quiet at the castle tonight, we think it'll be just us here, but who knows, we are only a few miles from the A9 heading towards Inverness, where the NC50O drive officially begins, we've driven this route twice in both directions and don't feel we need to again. After spending time at Fortrose we will slowly head back south. That's one of the plus points of being retired, you can just bumble about, doing what you want to do, when you want to do it, and how you want to do it. Sounds good to us.

A few more mushrooms NOT to eat.

Jack O Lantern - Will meet you feel very ill for around 24 hours.

Brown Roll Rim - can be very serious, and can be lethal from kidney failure. 

Fly Agaric - may make you be sick, and cause hallucinations.

Linn of Tummel car park, Pitlochry, Perthshire

What a relief, the night passed without a hoolie blowing and just a little rain. Although we didn't want to leave the island of Mull, we knew we'd made the right decision. Life in Marge when it was so wet, day after day, did not make for comfortable living, or good relations. Before leaving this morning, Angela walked up to the castle, the shifting light making for some fantastic photographs of the mountains.

To park at the castle a fee of ten pounds was payable, but no one came to collect it, so a result there. We needed to make a plan, if only a loose one. A thirty minute drive took us to the Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum, which if anyone is interested, is for sale due to the present owners retiring. Tyndrum is on the West Highland Way, route. When we arrived there were quite a few walkers there, most quite young. They looked, a sorry bunch, and we felt for them. Some looked broken. Tired, emotional, wet and deflated with nasty blisters. Being young they had physical energy, but with age comes resilience, which they were lacking. But who were we to judge, we'd opted out of doing the walk because of the weather, at least these guys were giving it a go. Tomorrow's weather in Scotland is going to be amazing, and we hope this dry sunny day will give these young walkers the boost they deserve to complete the walk, they still have forty six miles to go. After looking at the weather forecast the next few days, we decided not to drive south towards England, but over to the eastern side of Scotland. Rain showers passed over us on the way, but the sun broke the cloud just as much. The air felt fresher, and the light seemed brighter with the cloud higher in the sky.

So after a quick stop at Killin to see the Falls of Dochart we drove in the direction of Pitlochry. Three years ago we were able to park in the town centre car park, but due to the few, not behaving correctly, all vans are now banned. So the nearest free spot is at the Falls of Tummel car park, which is proving to be very popular. Marge even got to meet a fellow pop-top Landrover Defender, from Germany.

Tonight, we are quite the mix of travellers, English and German. It seems a little strange now being away from the coast, but for John, this area is one of his happy places, there are fungi to be foraged, and eaten, some Amathys Deceivers to go into his breakfast omelette. As we sit tonight all cosy in Marge with our heater to warm us, we think of the walkers we saw earlier. You've got this, just think of the achievement you'll feel when you reach Fort William.

Don't try one of these at home, the aptly named Death Cap mushroom, guaranteed death as the name implies over an extended period unless you can arrange an emergency liver transplant! Very pretty, but please leave it alone.

Kilchurn Castle car park, Dalmally

This morning we were pleased to be welcomed by the sun, we'd waited a long time. But it wouldn't last, by eleven it was raining. Because of the terrible weather conditions we have sadly decided to leave Mull, but we'll return hopefully next year. Being just a minute away from Craignure ferry terminal we visited the ticket office to change our return ferry crossing form tomorrow to today.

Booked on the five o'clock sailing we then drove to Tobermory half an hour away to buy a little shopping and eat yet more delicious fish from Hooked.

The lady who owns the fish and chip shop recognised John, her being a fellow landrover owner. She commented that she'd never known it to be so wet on the island, which is exactly why we have to leave. We love Mull, but when you can't walk out everyday and really enjoy it it's no fun.

Not surprisingly, Oban was wet, and a little windy. As we disembarked another group of vehicles filled the lanes waiting to embark. The weather during the Sunday on Mull is going to be glorious, then it looks like it's back to the same old. On the ferry returning to Oban there were quite a lot of Americans. We engaged in conversation with the couple nearest to us. They'd been over to Iona today, where the weather had been grim. Unfortunately these people book their trip to Scotland in advance, unlike us, who can choose what we do, and when, they just have to 'go with it'. Sensing their disappointment, Angela showed them the photos she took of Tobermory and Iona almost a week ago, when it was warm with blue skies. They were pleased to see them, it brought a whole new dimension to their visit. Less than an hour after leaving Oban we arrived at tonight's stop. At Kilchurn Castle car park. Cost ten pounds a night. Downside road to one side, and railway line the other. But the road and railway quieten at night, however the first train leaves Oban at six in the morning. That'll be our wake up call  then Marge.

(photo from our visit April 2026)

Kilchurn castle is on the banks of Loch Awe, and even though we've visited before, it would be nice to be able to walk out in the morning to view it again before leaving. That of course depends on, you guessed, the rain.

Craignure, Scallastle Forestry Trail, Scotland

Last night the weather was absolutely horrendous. Marge swayed and shook, and Angela felt sorry for the people in tents in the adjacent camping area. But the Scots are a tough lot. This morning, two lads set up a table behind their car, fired up the cooker to cook breakfast, in the pouring rain!  John offered to boil water for them using our electric kettle, but they declined, and why not, it was only a drop of rain, we are all wet most of the time now, it's become the norm. Suddenly our mobile phones briefly picked up a weak signal. Some friends of ours are also holidaying on the island and they wondered if we could all meet up in Tobermory. So a quick check Marge was all packed up before setting off up and over, down and round, into a passing place, out of a passing place. All these manoeuvres make for a slow drive.

Late morning coffee and then lunch at Hooked in Tobermory's Main Street the 'best fish and chip shop' ever, of course it was fishcakes all around, we picked up some shopping, bid our friends goodbye and as we were in Tobermory popped into the marina showers for two pounds worth of very nice hot water. Before leaving town, another walk, the sun breaking through for a very short while, a welcome relief.

In the harbour John saw a dolphin. Tonight the wind on the island is forecast to gust up to 46mph.

We are trying an overnight spot we've never been to before, at the little parking area for Scallastle forest, one minute from the ferry terminal at Craignure.

We are hoping this weekend there will be some respite with the weather as we've decided because of the unrelenting rain, and us both having colds, walking the West Highland Way, and wild camping overnight in a very small tent is probably not a great idea. Best to wait until next year now. John would like Angela to spend a night out in the small tent we were taking, so we hope to spend a night on the small campsite on the island of Iona.

Fingers crossed, the weather delivers, and this Sunday it's half decent. That Airbnb Angela was hoping to be warm and snug in will have to wait!

Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull

Last night the rain came and went. Mid morning, keen to break out of Marge, we walked out along the nearby section of road that is closed due to landslip and rockfall, although it is passable with a vehicle at your own risk.

If you know, you know. Waterproof jackets on, the walk was pleasant until the never ending bands of rain passed over. At one point we sought refuge behind a large rock, a good idea, probably not. Some much needed exercise done, we packed up Marge and set off to nearby Salen to purchase hot drinks and yet more kitchen rolls for nose blowing purposes. Angela, has, as expected after a week given John her cold, you can imagine how popular she is! On our way to Salen, travelling behind one of the Mull Wildlife Tour land rovers we happened upon a group with tripods, long lens cameras and spotting scopes set up.

There was obvious something to see. Two otters on a nearby rock, and an eagle flying close to the surface of the water. Earlier we'd seen a seal. It was turning out to be quite a morning. As the rain pounded Marge, we sat in her wondering where to stay for tonight. High winds were forecast all over the island.

We decided to head to Calgary Bay, one of the few  spots near a beach. As we drove up and over the hills, passing through Dervaig, the village looked sad and soggy, as did the camping area at Calgary bay. Marge positioned into the wind, diesel heater on, we settled in for the rest of the day and night with sadly no internet connection. It's shameful really, that we've become reliant on the internet, early in the year when we were away Angela was happy to read her book, now the distractions of online viewing have become a compulsive consumption. Note to self Angela, take your reading book out of the cupboard.