Alcaidesa Marina, Gibraltar

We are now back in Spain. Today has been a very long day. When we purchased our ticket to Morocco we were told it was an open ticket, which meant we could return when we wished. The police in Morocco can check your documents at any time, and they must be able to see you will, at some time be leaving the country. So our ticket was dated June 13th, which confused us a little. Angela googled how to use an open ticket, and she was informed that she should stop at the office of our ferry provider at Tanger Med Port. John googled as well, using slightly different wording, like change, and we were sent on a wild goose chase into the busy streets of Tangier, where Angela visited the ferry operators office, only to be told we needed to sort out our return ticket at the port. The temperature and stress rising, Marge negotiated some very steep narrow streets back down to the seafront. Don't you just despair with Google maps sometime? Almost another hours drive along the coast road and we arrived at the port. Our return ticket was purchased, Marge was scanned, and sniffed by a security dog.

Steady Marge. Inside the vehicle we had 6 eggs, some butter and cheese, almost a whole melon, and some fruit and veg. Oh dear Marge, there might be a problem. After numerous checks of passports and Marge we were on the ferry.

It was a quarter past five when it left. We were shattered! Angela in particular, whose been coughing for four days now, with no sign of it stopping. We think she may have covid. Before winding up our trip to Morocco, we'd like to tell you of some of the pro's and cons of visiting this north African country. John loved it. He liked the vibrancy, the coastline, the coffee, the food, the architecture and some of the people. Angela did not love it! She was glad we went, and really enjoyed visiting Marrekech, hoping to return and stay in a riad on the square. She did not like the mess. At first it was like driving through a rubbish tip, and even as we left today we could see bags of waste amongst the pine trees. She didn't like the poverty, and the fact not all children attended school. She did however take joy from the smiling faces of the children and adults when we waved to them. She didn't like the hassling by some individuals wanting to show us around for money, and the fact we couldn't just stop for lunch at a pull in, as someone would be on you in a moment hoping you'd give them a few dirham. Despite the conditions of the campsites, she didn't mind, preferring to stay than park on street with a guardian. She also loved the food. We both hated the way the Moroccans drove. Fast and dangerous. It made each day very stressful. All that aside we plan to return in the winter months sometime, which is the season here, when more overland vehicles like Marge will be around.

Tonight we're staying once again at the marina opposite Gibraltar.Tomorrow we will probably pop across the runway into town to visit Boots for some medication. Yes, it does seem surreal seeing some high street names on Gibraltar, especially Marks & Spencer. Well you never know when you might need pants. Especially if you've just spent almost four weeks driving the roads in Morocco.

Tahadart Camping & Holiday Homes ( Morocco 90000 )

Our time in the Rif mountains over, we set off, early, after looking at the clouds below the mountain tops, this inversion layer was quite a sight.

It was already very warm, and it being a Sunday we hoped the traffic on the road would be lighter, not that lighter traffic makes for more careful driving here.

The area seemed quite remote, and we were desperate for fruit, crisps and water. Drinking any water other than bottled, is an absolute no no here. We are consuming a minimum of six litres a day. So, seeing a shop open at a garage we purchased a pack of water, and drank coffee and Moroccan tea at the adjacent cafe before leaving. Then passing through a very small village, another stop at a small shop to buy fruit, pringles, which are extortionately priced here, and a large bottle of orangina, because drinking water all the time just doesn't quench your thirst. Since arriving at Tangier all purchases, except diesel have been in cash. Lately, Marge's diesel has to be paid in cash too. Angela was a little concerned, as we have only nine hundred Moroccan dirham, around seventy-two pounds. If we can book a ferry tomorrow, we will be leaving Morocco within a couple of days. The only place we ever see cash withdrawal machines are at supermarkets, and we haven't seen one of them for a while either. Hopefully, the nine hundreds dirhams will suffice until we leave. This afternoon we arrived back at the Atlantic coast. The temperature almost ten degrees cooler. Bliss.

The little camping area is behind a restaurant, opposite the beach.

A beautiful sandy beach, strewn with rubbish. No change there! We hoped to eat in the restaurant, but when we saw a member of the kitchen staff, identifiable by the apron he wore, assisting with a major drain blockage it was a no! Outside on the camping sign in large capital letters it specified that there is a drain available for campervans and and motorhomes to dump their waste. Well someone had dumped something, a very large something!

Camping Azilan, Chefchaouen, Morocco (day 2)

End of school for the summer here yesterday. Adjacent to the campsite the towns swimming Poole, where yesterday an end of school party was held, until half ten last night. There's something about bassy music and a DJ who really loves himself, that doesn't gel well with someone suffering with a migraine. Angela's words are unprintable! All quiet this morning, and with Angela feeling a little better we walked down to the town, passing goats stood in the argan trees who had climbed the trees to enjoy a nibble on the leathery foilage.

As you do. Despite being up amongst the Rif mountains it is hot, 34c. We know cool compared to some parts of the U.K. and Europe. Chefchaouen is a relaxed mountain city, often called the 'Blue Pearl'. Famous for its blue washed streets and Andalusian style architecture of blue washed buildings.

Pretty as it is, the shops seemed to all sell similar items, straight off a container ship from China. Angela would have liked to have seen something a little more artisan for sale. Being up in the mountains, there is no supermarket here, so we purchased courgettes, peppers, tomatoes and onions from the street sellers who sat along the pavement with a few crops they'd managed to cultivate on the dry barren soil here. This evening, the temperature has now dropped by 1c. We'd like to walk out for a meal, but the walk back is uphill, and after struggling back to Marge once already today in the intense heat, we are not so sure it's a good idea to venture out again. This evening our neighbours are a very nice Moroccan family, mum, dad, four children and as introduced to us, ' the in-law'. That'll be the mother in law to you and us!

Camping Azilan, Chefchaouen, Morocco

Angela is unwell again. For the last two days she's been suffering with headaches, and now has a really bad cold, so last night was yet another night of no sleep for her. There's something really miserable about being ill at the best of times, but being unwell away from home makes it doubly so. Despite feeling awful, she was happy to pack up Marge and set off into the Rif mountains to Chefchaouen. The drive was longer than John would have liked, but we will be leaving Morocco soon, and the mountainside town of Chefchaouen was on our list of places to visit, so we couldn't leave without stopping there, we'd feel we'd left Morocco with unfinished business.

It is much warmer here than on the coast, almost 30c, but at least there's a breeze coming down off the mountains which surround us. Hopefully tomorrow Angela will feel much better and we'll walk down to the town. We are in Berber country here, so there just might be a chance of Angela being able to buy the Berber straw hat she would like.

As for tonight's campsite, overpriced with terrible facilities, but it's the only one in the area so they can get away with it.

Just four of us here to enjoy the the stunning views of Morocco's northern landscape, which makes the extortionate price to stay here more bearable.

No stowaways please, I know someone who would love you, but honestly we've no room!