Wednesday, 6 May 2026

Pulpit Hill car park, Oban, Argyle & Bute.

Angela didn't sleep well last night, it was too quiet. Honestly, there's no pleasing the girl. We have stayed at Lochbuie many times now, and we cannot remember there being so few people here overnight. The wildlife must have noticed as well. There was not a hoot from an owl, a screech from an oystercatcher, or any shuffling from the sheep as they grazed nearby. Even the waters of the loch were still. By dawn it was situation normal. The oystercatchers noisy, argumentative and busy. The drone of bumble bees as they searched holes and hollows. And the reliable alarm call of the cuckoos rang around the mountains. The sun was up, and the day already warm. The weather on Mull has been amazing whilst we've been here. The area benefits from localised microclimates. So lucky us. John was out of sorts yesterday evening, retiring to bed by eight thirty. So we decided to stay put at Lochbuie and plan where we wanted to travel to next. We decided it would be the outer Hebrides and that we would take a ferry from Oban to Castlebay. So Angela booked a return ferry to Oban for tomorrow lunchtime, and then realised the only available sailing to Barra in the next few days was tomorrow lunchtime, so we telephoned Calmac ferries and rebooked on the seven twenty five ferry back to Oban this evening. And then a text message came in from Calmac saying tomorrow's ferry was now delayed by two hours. You couldn't make it up.


Anyhow, we're back in Oban now, staying the night on top of Pulpit Hill.

There's us, a French and German van, and a girl sleeping in her car. We decided not to put our pop top up, and for the second time are going to sleep downstairs which will be cosy. It is also a practice for our first night on Barra, where the winds are forecast to be 27 mph. Could be interesting. So in preparation for our trip out to the islands of the outer Hebrides, Barra, The Uists, Harris and Lewis, we will do a big shop in Aldi. It's difficult to buy fresh fruit and vegetables on the islands, and in the past we've visited small community shops and all they've had to offer is lager, cakes and sweets. To some this might seem a balanced diet. So stay with us, whilst we take Muddy Marge through her paces through these beautiful islands with their white sand beaches and rugged landscapes.




Before we left Lochbuie we had a walk out onto a nearby island which can be reached at low tide, Angela discovered a Greylag goose nest just before she stepped on it!

Tuesday, 5 May 2026

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

We've now been away two weeks, and still the sun shines, but with it today and strong cold northerly wind, ideal for drying washing, so we took the opportunity. After being forced to change spots yesterday evening, John went to the reception to complain and ask if we could have a free night tonight as compensation. We were told we'd have to wait until four o'clock clock to hear. So we walked over to Knockvologan Beach.






We've visited here before and remember being blown away by the white sands, turquoise blue water, grassy hills and rocks to climb. It's a little piece of paradise. There was just us, a couple with a baby and a couple walking their dog. Unlike our last visit when we sat high on the hill admiring the view, today we hunkered down out of the strong wind which blew in our faces. But we didn't mind, the sun was out and the views absolutely stunning. The tide was falling so we walked back across the sands to the campsite. John seeing no need for walking boots had to result in removing his socks and sandals to navigated the last of the tidal water.

Back at Fidden Farm we were told there'd be no compensation for us regarding our inconsiderate neighbours from the previous evening. The campsites information leaflet clearly states vehicles must not park too close together, and that consideration should be given to others. Obviously these rules aren't implemented. Feeling let down, we packed up and decided to drive back over to Lochbuie. Thankfully it was quiet, just six other people here. The cold wind we'd experienced today now gone, the evening was pleasant. The scattered colours from the fading sun lit the headland. Stunning.




Angela took lots of photographs. We don't know if we'll return to the island of Mull on this trip and she just wanted to capture as many memories as possible.

Monday, 4 May 2026

Fidden Farm Campsite, Ffionofort, Isle of Mull (Day 2)


John survived his practice night in his little tent.
Angela survived the night luxuriating in Muddy Marge's large bed. The wind through the night was a little keen, but the new day dawned bright. Despite the chill in the air, we felt blessed to wake up in such a beautiful location. We also felt very lucky to be having continuous fairly good weather. Yes there's been a little rain, but nothing really to speak of. Today we were excited, it felt like a bucket list day.



We were going to visit the island of Staffa, see inside Fingal's cave and the puffins that return to the island in April to breed. As the boat moved slowly along the sound of Iona the crew steered the boat in amongst the rocks so we could see the seals basking on the rocks.



Then out into the open sea and, 'a bit of a swell'. But we didn't mind. John doesn't suffer with motion sickness, and Angela has taken a travel pill.




As the island of Staffa loomed large we couldn't believe we were actually there. The boat tied up alongside the little jetty and we made sure we were the first to disembark so that we'd be first down at Fingal's cave in order to be able to take some good photographs. Although a handrail has been put in place we still had to take care as we negotiated the basalt paving below our feet.


Staffa is a volcanic island made up of towering hexagonal basalt columns. It was spectacular. Angela didn't enter the cave because there was no handrail on the drop side, but John did.




Here we were in the middle of the deep blue sea, six miles from the island of Mull. It seemed unreal. And just when our visit couldn't become more exciting it did.





The puffins have recently returned to nest, and oh boy did they come out to play, providing us with fantastic photography. We had been first of the boat, and we're last to return, sad to be leaving the puffins, funny little fellas in black dinner jackets and white bibs. As Staffa faded into the distance we were once more in the swell. The boat swung from side to side unnerving some of the passengers, but not us. What a fantastic day it has been. Sadly it didn't end well.


Back at the campsite three vans had almost blocked us in. So much for six metres between us all. We were furious! Obviously we had to move. Now Muddy Marge is over in the overflow area of the campsite. It seems quiet so far, and we are literally right above the beach.

Today's visit to Staffa has made us hungry for more adventures. Life is meant to be lived, and we intent to do just that!

Sunday, 3 May 2026

Fidden Farm Campsite, Fidden, Ffionofort, Isle of Mull

We decided it was time to move on, so we packed up early before a light rain shower was due to pass over. Fortunately when it did, it was nothing to speak of. Our drive to Ffionofort was only fifty five miles away, but this being Mull it would mean a drive of nearly two hours. We broke the journey at Pennyghael where there is a small shop adjacent to the campsite. The selection available was not as extensive as the Co-op in Tobermory, and also a lot more expensive. Since we've been on Mull the cost of three shops would have covered five shops at Aldi, but hey ho, it's all part of our trip. We feel though for the people on the island who have a limited choice of where to shop. On the plus side the little store served hot drinks so we indulged. Outside a local man was interviewing people asking them what they liked about Mull. We'd already spoken to him, saying we absolutely loved the island and why, but what we didn't like was the people who spoilt our enjoyment. At the loch yesterday evening two vans arrived around six in the evening. Thankfully they were about quarter of a mile away from us, but their music was cranked up so high we could hear the rapping and the continued boom of the base. Unbelievable! Here we were in one of the most tranquil, beautiful, away from it all places, and these people felt they had the right to ruin it. Fortunately it all ended around midnight, and this morning they were long gone. Obviously our negativity didn't allow us to be interviewed. It still being the bank holiday we were a little apprehensive how busy the campsite we were heading to might be. But we needn't have been concerned, it was fairly quiet. We know tomorrow quite a few people will leave. Sited near to us is a Belgian registered Iveco overland vehicle. We spent a long time talking with the owners exchanging information.

We have booked to stay here on the campsite for two nights. Even though it is now a lot cooler, it is dry, but also quite windy. We have a fantastic pitch in a slightly more sheltered area from where we can see across to the tiny island of Iona.


And once again, just before ten this evening we witnessed yet another incredible sunset.

 Hopefully the wind will calm a little in the night, as we have brought our lightweight tent with us that we will be using on our West Highland Way walk, and John is going to spend the night in it to test out it's suitability and also his lightweight warm clothing.

Angela knows she'll be cosy in Muddy Marge snuggled up in the teddy bear bedding. Hopefully we'll both sleep well. Tomorrow is going to be an exciting day for us, we have booked to go on the boat trip to the island of Staffa, something we've wanted to do in the past, but just not had the opportunity. Now we have the mindset that life is short and we must just 'go for it'!

Saturday, 2 May 2026

Loch na Keal, Isle of Mull (the return to, day 2)

Although all of Mull is beautiful, Angela thinks there are only three locations that are perfect. Two especially. Lochbuie and Loch na Keal. The third, Ffionofort, where the beaches are stunning, but popular because they are just stunning, and because of their location near to the tiny island of Iona. Ffionofort will be our next stop. For now we are sitting tight, not keen to move until after the bank holiday weekend. But we will see, perhaps tomorrow. First though there was a Munro to walk on. Towering over us is Ben More. It is just under 1000 metres high. It's peak constantly plays hide and seek with the cloud. Walking boots on, and lunch packed we set off. From the get go, the uphill climb was relentless. Our legs complaining from the start. The waterfalls and rock pools were beautiful.


Crystal clear water slid over the rocks before tumbling down towards the loch. Despite an overcast day, the views were still lovely, and we very much enjoyed looking at them whilst we lunched.



Then it was back to Muddy Marge. That was Ben More done! Remember we said we were going to walk on a Munro, not actually climb it! This evening our little camping area is popular. Parked near to us a T25 campervan that was here with us two years. Owning a VW T25 Syncro 4x4 is on John's wish list. 

We have now been away thirteen days and have made the most of everyday. As we age the urgency of missing opportunities is strong. The urge to travel means not standing still too long. So as spectacular as the island of Mull is, we must soon make plans for our onward journey. We're sure that along the way there will be many more exciting places to visit and experiences to experience, on our road trip we have named, 'Muddy Marge's Highland Fling!