Clashnessie Bay Beach, Assynt

Thanks to our noisy neighbours in the van next to us, we were up early this morning. We've been away for over three weeks now, and fortunately this is the first time we've been irritated by the people in the van next to us. Hopefully that'll be it for this trip. When we make our plans they are always loose, so today we didn't visit the mountain Stac Polliadh, but drove to Lochinver instead, home of the Lochinver pie shop, a must visit establishment for the very best pies.

And they were, with so many to choose from, savoury and sweet, we bought a fisherman's and a steak and ale for lunch. It was true, these were the very best pies! As we now find ourselves up in the north West Highlands, we thought we'd visit some of the beautiful white sand beaches. Clachtol being one of them.

Despite a strong onshore wind the rolling waves and fast moving clouds made for great photography. With the change of seasons, comes the colours of autumn which provide stunning scenery and incredible views. Yes it's cold, but also sunny, so wrapped up warm we took the chance today to walk on beaches and visit a waterfall.

The best waterfall so far at Clashnessie, where we are staying tonight right opposite the beach. We even saw a young couple having wedding photos taken on the beach.

Tomorrow's weather seems a little unsettled, but that's no bother. When it rains, waterfalls come alive, mist transforms the mountains, and the colours intensify. The best memories aren't always made in sunshine.

What the internet says about Clashnessie

Clashnessie is a tiny, historic crofting township located in the wild Assynt district of west Sutherland, along the dramatic north-west coast of Scotland. The name comes from the Scottish Gaelic Clais an Easaidh, which translates beautifully to the "glen of the waterfall".

The Crofting Community

The Settlement: The village consists of just 19 widely scattered houses spread over roughly a square mile. About half of these are original or rebuilt 19th-century crofters' cottages.

The History: Walking through the area, you can still spot the ruined stone walls of unmortared blackhouses. These were built by the original families who were forced to the coast from the more fertile interior during the Highland Clearages.

The Climate: Despite sitting far north, its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean's Gulf Stream grants it a surprisingly mild micro-climate.

Top Natural Attractions

Clashnessie Bay Beach: A spectacular, north-facing beach known for its fine white sand (which occasionally displays a unique ochre or red tinge) and striking turquoise waters. It is safe for family bathing and offers a great view back across the ancient coastal landscape.

Clashnessie Falls: A dramatic 15-metre (50-foot) waterfall that tumbles over ancient metamorphic rock. Depending on recent rainfall, it can transform from an elegant white veil into a roaring, coffee-coloured torrent.

Visiting Details

The Hike: The trail to the falls starts near the free beach parking area. It is a short but notoriously boggy, muddy, and rocky route that takes about 15 to 20 minutes each way.

The Terrain: You will need solid waterproof hiking boots or wellies. The path requires crossing the Clashnessie Burn via stepping stones, which can sometimes submerge after heavy rainfall.

Location: It is a popular, scenic detour for travelers exploring the famous North Coast 500 (NC500) route, situated just off the twisty, single-track B869 coastal road.

Knockan Crag Nature Trail, North West Highlands

Today is a monumental day. Thanks to all the Marges, and the trips we've taken without them, today's blog will be number, one thousand. Eight years ago, the day after Angela's mum's funeral we set off to Europe in our first ever camper van, Marge (1), named after Angela's mum, Margery. The idea of the blog was to keep our family informed as to where we were, and that we were safe. After, not so long, we realised that one day, we might like to, or need to look back at the memories we are creating now. Today we wonder, what will the older John and Angela think when they take a trip down memory lane in years to come when re-reading these pages? Because of the importance of the day, it just couldn't be any old day. This morning, we left a rainy Helmsdale and headed west through the hills and mountains, alongside rivers and woodlands.

A stop at Rosewall woodland walk for a break, before heading on to   Knockan Crag, our chosen overnight spot for today. Knockan Crag is recognised for the extraordinary layers of rock beneath the feet, and the world class scenery and stunning views of the western Highlands. Although a little windy, we positioned Marge into it, and settled in. Whilst preparing lunch, a young couple in land rover 90 pulled in next to us. The two black vehicles looked good together.

Needing to mark the day with something exciting, we decided to take the circular walk up and over the top of the crag. How difficult could it be? Well not so bad, until the wind got up. Angela, as you know and heights don't mix, and they certainly don't mix when strong wind is added into the mix. 

So after some time of walking uphill, the wind doing its best to sweep us off our feet, we felt the walk might not be for us older folk. Back at the car park, we decided to set off again on another path that looked easier.

By taking our time, we reached the viewpoint at the top, and wow, the views were amazing! Now to get Angela back down. John asked if she was terrified, no she wasn't, just apprehensive. On a scale of one to ten, probably a fear factor of seven. Sometimes, you just have to do these things, life's short, you don't want to look back with regret. So thank you Marge's for the journeys, and the memories, let's hope we have many more years together.

What the internet says about Knockan Crag Nature Reserve

The Knockan Crag Nature Trail is a world-famous, geologically significant hiking route located within the Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve in Assynt, Scotland. This trail is celebrated for showcasing the Moine Thrust, where two ancient continents crashed millions of years ago, forcing older rock layers directly on top of younger ones—a discovery that revolutionized global scientific understanding in the 19th century.

Trail Overview & Statistics

The main loop, known as the Crag Trail, is a beautifully managed loop perfect for families, nature lovers, and casual hikers alike.

Distance: 1.3 miles (2 km)

Time Required: Approximately 1 hour (add 20–30 minutes to read the displays)

Elevation Gain: 436 feet (185 m)

Difficulty: Moderate (features steep, rocky steps at the start to assist with the incline, with loose gravel in places)

Key Highlights

Outdoor Geology Exhibits: The trail acts as an interactive museum. It includes well-placed informational panels, a "pipe rock" display, and a famous interactive globe sculpture.

Art & Poetry: Hikers can discover unique stone sculptures and evocative poetry by Norman MacCaig beautifully carved directly into the local stone.

Spectacular Views: Reaching the top rewards you with breathtaking, panoramic viewpoints looking out over the wild, dramatic landscape of Assynt's mountains and expansive lakes.

Amenities: The reserve offers a free parking lot, clean public toilets, picnic areas, and an indoor pavilion with exhibits. It is also completely dog-friendly.

Tips for Visiting

The trail is narrow and can get slick when wet, so sturdy footwear is highly recommended. High winds are common at the cliff edge, and if you are visiting during the summer months, be sure to bring insect repellent to guard against Highland midges.

Helmsdale, Sutherland

Our merry little band of eight travellers all departed around the same time this morning, just as the rain began. Because we are both finding it hard to shake off our colds, we decided to abandon the big burn walk. The interior of Marge is tiny, and having us and wet clothing inside her is not a great mix. So instead we decided to drive further up the coast and revisit the small fishing village of Helmsdale.

Having stayed here in the past we expected great things. Sadly, we were a little disappointed. Over time some of the businesses have closed, leaving just a few. The outdoor shop, a gift shop, fish and chip shop, small supermarket, and a couple of pubs and cafes. Helmsdale is on the NC500 route, and the idea of this route, was to bring people into towns along the way to boost economies. Not so here it seems.

Doing our bit for Helmsdale, we stopped for drinks and scones at the riverside cafe, bought shopping at the Spar shop, and used the nice new public showers, costing a pound for three minutes. Unfortunately, someone has damaged the lock on the ladies shower door, so Angela used the one in the men's, whilst John explained to the men who came and went why he was loitering in a men's toilet! The cafe we'd visited early was situated in the Timespan centre. A lady in the gift shop made a negative comment about the vans. Well without them sadly this town will really suffer. Angela could sort of see why, this morning the driver of a hired campervan let out their waste water right across the carpark, she was infuriated! The same lady wished us a nice holiday. Holiday? This is our life, travelling, meeting new people, spending money in local communities.

That's one of the great things about being retired. You can do what you want, when you want, and for as long as you wish.

What the internet says about Helmsdale

Helmsdale (known in Scottish Gaelic as Bunillidh) is a picturesque coastal village perched on the edge of the North Sea in Sutherland, Scotland. Home to roughly 700 residents, this traditional fishing village is a peaceful but deeply historic stop along the famous North Coast 500 driving route.

A Deeply Rooted History

The Viking Era: Long before the modern village existed, Norse invaders sailed into the mouth of the River Ullie (now the River Helmsdale) and used it as a shelter for their longships. They named the valley Hjalmundsair—"the valley of Hjalmund".

The Highland Clearances: Helmsdale was transformed into a structured, planned community in 1814–1815. The Countess of Sutherland designed the town to forcibly resettle rural crofting families evicted from inland glens like the Strath of Kildonan. The goal was to pivot the displaced families into farming and fishing.

The Herring Boom: By the 1840s, Helmsdale’s newly built harbour had exploded into one of the largest herring fishing ports in Europe, bustling with more than 200 boats and highly skilled local women who could gut up to 50 fish a minute.

Things to See & Do

Timespan Museum and Arts Centre: This award-winning cultural hub features an archive of over 11,000 local items detailing everything from the Viking occupation to the 1869 gold rush. It also hosts a contemporary art gallery and a riverside café.

The Emigrants Statue: Located high in Couper Park on the south side of the valley, this striking monument commemorates the families forced to leave Scotland during the Clearances, acknowledging the enormous impact they made on the countries they sailed to.

World-Class Salmon Fishing: Today, Helmsdale is synonymous with elite fly fishing. The River Helmsdale is widely considered one of Europe’s finest and most exclusive Atlantic salmon rivers.

The Kildonan Gold Rush: Just a short drive inland takes you to Baile an Ór. This was the site of the great 1869 Sutherland gold rush. Visitors can still rent gold panning kits and try their luck in the burns.

Jurassic Fossil Hunting: For amateur geologists, the coastline surrounding the village is renowned as one of the best locations in Scotland for collecting Jurassic-era fossils. 

Where to Eat & Stay

Despite its modest size, Helmsdale offers authentic Highland hospitality:

La Mirage: An iconic, flamboyantly decorated local restaurant famous for serving massive portions of fresh fish and chips. 

Local Fare: Spots like Thyme and Plaice and The Garrison showcase seasonal Highland produce and fresh seafood caught right off the coast.

Accommodations: If you are staying overnight, local mainstays like the Bridge Guest House and the Helmsdale Hostel offer warm, friendly bases for exploring the wider Sutherland area.

Golspie, Sutherland

Last week on the island of Mull the weather stopped us from getting out, walk and explore. Now, we're spoiled for choice, with the weather onside, there's woodland walks, waterfall walks and walks around interesting towns and villages to enjoy. This morning, our first stop, the Falls of Shin, where if you're lucky you'll see the salmon leap up and over the powerful rapids as they make their way upstream, sadly today, the salmon were illusive.

But last year whilst in Scotland we saw salmon leap and it was amazing. Then a walk through Achany Glen and the mixed woodland where fungi were plentiful, sadly most were inedible, however John did spot a cluster of Tawny Hedgehog mushrooms, which of course are now stored safely in Marge. We even saw a red squirrel, of which there are many in Scotland, so we hope to see more.

Next seals, which never fail to turn up on the sand flats at loch fleet, Skelbo. The tide was on the turn, and there they were, jostling for the best position on the exposed sand. High tide was quite late today, so we wouldn't see them as they slid back into the water as the waves broke over them. So seals, salmon spotting, red squirrels and foraging ticked it was time to source an overnight spot.

Nearby Golspie on the far side opposite Skelbo looked perfect, a small village with overnight parking for vans right on the seafront, sounded good to us. Marge was comfortable, so we walked along the seafront to Dunrobin castle.

 The largest castle in the Highlands with one hundred and eighty nine rooms, this striking building resembling a french chateau looks spectacular as it overlooks the Moray Firth. By late afternoon we were tired, we walked over five miles today, which doesn't sound far, but as we are still both under the weather suffering with a prolonged really annoying cold, we were pleased with our efforts. Tomorrow's weather looks a little iffy, but before we leave this area we'd like to walk the nearby 'Big Burn', a walk through a gorge to a waterfall. After so much rain last week we are hoping the waterfall really delivers, so we'll be donning waterproof jackets and trousers in readiness, because if you only walk on sunny days, you'll never reach your destination.

Here is yet another mushroom NOT to eat, Angela Wings. We found a lot today on our walk, and although they look similar to Oyster mushrooms, you must not eat them. 

What the internet says about Golspie

Golspie is a charming coastal village and parish in Sutherland, located in the Scottish Highlands. Home to a tight-knit population of around 1,350 residents, it sits snugly between the North Sea coast and the towering, 395-metre hill of Ben Bhraggie. Positioned directly along the famous North Coast 500 (NC500) route, Golspie is a vibrant local hub known for its rich history, spectacular walking trails, and fairytale architecture.

Top Attractions

Dunrobin Castle: Located just north of the village, this jaw-dropping 189-room French-style chateau is the historic seat of the Dukes of Sutherland. Dating back to the 1300s, it is one of Britain’s oldest continuously inhabited houses. Visitors can tour its grand rooms, stroll through elaborate formal gardens inspired by Versailles, and watch daily falconry displays during the summer months.

Ben Bhraggie & "The Mannie": Looming over the town is Ben Bhraggie. At its peak stands a controversial 100-foot-tall monument of the 1st Duke of Sutherland (known locally as "The Mannie"), who was notorious for his role in the Highland Clearances. A rewarding 4-hour hike up the hill awards walkers with sweeping views across the Dornoch Firth and out to sea.

The Big Burn Walk: A spectacular, easily accessible woodland walk that follows a rushing gorge up to a series of stunning waterfalls. In late spring, the forest floor blooms with a vibrant carpet of wild bluebells.

Golspie Beach: A pristine, award-winning three-mile stretch of sandy coastline perfect for walks. It features a small, historic stone pier and harbour jutting out into the sea.

History & Culture

The name Golspie derives from the old Norse for "gully village," showing its deep Viking roots. While it originally began as a quiet fishing hamlet, the village expanded significantly in the early 19th century to house crofters who had been brutally evicted from inland glens during the Highland Clearances. The arrival of the railway in 1868 transformed it into a trendy Victorian resort town. In fact, Queen Victoria herself stayed at Dunrobin Castle for a week in 1872 and famously rode a pony up to the Big Burn waterfall. Over the years, it has even welcomed music royalty—in 1969, John Lennon, Yoko Ono, and their children spent several days recovering at the local Lawson Memorial Hospital after a car accident nearby.

Village Amenities & Leisure

Today, Golspie serves as an important service centre for the wider Sutherland district. It is packed with exceptional facilities for both locals and travelers:

Outdoor Sports: Golspie boasts a scenic 18-hole golf course that blends links and heathland terrain. It also has premium mountain biking trails winding down Ben Bhraggie.

Local Infrastructure: Unlike many remote Highland villages, it features a swimming pool, public library, high school, local hospital, and a fitness centre.

Food & Drink: The town offers an excellent selection of independent shops, cafes like the cozy Coffee Bothy, and one of the Highlands' best fish and chip shops. For a traditional meal, the historic Golspie Inn—a coaching inn dating back over two centuries—serves up classic Scottish dishes like Cullen skink and local single malt whiskies.