Ardmore Forest car park, outside Tobermory

At last, this morning Mull returned to the island we love. After so much unsettled weather here, we were delighted to wake up this morning to beautiful clear sunny weather, stunning views and otters.

The island is much quieter now, and with less people and calm waters we were able to spot the otters, not just in the loch, but running around the stony beach and hopping over rocks. And not just one, but two. Only yesterday, Angela had commented, before we left Mull it would be fantastic to see an otter close up. Well her wish had come true.

Link to a YouTube video of one of the otters

We have never been privileged to watch them at such close quarters before. It was magical. The weather settled, and the otters now departed we decided to move to another area of the island. Leaving Loch Na Keal felt a little sad. This area is our favourite place on the island, and this afternoon as the clouds moved across the top of Ben More shadows were cast over the loch and the hills opposite. The shifting light and autumn colours were so stunning. We will probably not visit Scotland next year as there are too many other places we want to visit in 2027. But leaving the loch, as it looked today was the lasting memory we were glad to take home with us. Not too far away, John found a forest park up nearby to Tobermory. Google maps of course took us totally to the wrong spot, but we didn't mind as we got to see Glengorm castle, a Scottish baronial castle on the coast, built in 1860.

The castle has recently been sold, asking  price, offer's over 9 million pounds. Out of our price range then. Eventually we found our overnight spot, with views down the sound of Mull and back across to Ardnamurchan.

Despite feeling weary, we took a short walk out. Tomorrow lunchtime we will take the ferry from Craignure to Oban, it's time now to think about slowly heading home taking the memories of today with us, honestly, seeing the otters so close will stay with us forever, just as seeing a white tailed eagle fly over Marge's roof this afternoon, these birds have an 8 foot plus wingspan so was very impressive. 

A visit to Tobermory early in the morning for a shower and a last look at the vibrant waterfront before heading to our ferry. We are glad we gave Mull a second visit on this trip, the thought of not seeing it in the sunshine on our last visit had saddened us. Now we can leave happy.

What the internet says about the Ardmore Forest

The Ardmore Forest is a beautiful, 600-hectare commercial and regenerating plantation managed by Forestry and Land Scotland, situated on the northernmost tip of the Isle of Mull. Facing out toward the Sound of Mull and the Atlantic, it provides an exceptionally peaceful escape that blends thick conifer blocks, recovering open heathland, dramatic coastal views, and profound layers of Highland history.

Beyond its scenic appeal, the forest serves a vital ecological and utility function: it acts as a critical drinking water catchment area that supplies the main public water system for Tobermory as well as the historic Tobermory Distillery.

The Ardmore Shore Walk

The best way to experience the area is by embarking on the popular Ardmore Shore Walk .

Distance: 4.5 miles (7.25 km)

Time :  Approximately 2 hours
Difficulty: Easy to moderate. The main paths utilize well-maintained forestry tracks, though the coastal section can become quite boggy and uneven after typical Scottish rainfall.

The Route: The trail begins at the dedicated Forestry and Land Scotland car park off the Glengorm road. You will amble through stands of Sitka spruce and Lodgepole pine before the path drops down toward the shore, loops around the sweeping crescent of Ardmore Bay , and weaves back through the woodlands.

Exceptional Wildlife Watching

Mull is fondly nicknamed "Eagle Island," and Ardmore Forest is one of the premier spots on the north coast to view rare raptors and marine life.

In the Air: Keep your eyes on the sky to spot magnificent white-tailed sea eagles and golden eaglessoaring over the coastal ridges. 

On the Water: The tidal edges are home to gray and harbor seals. If you are exceptionally patient, you may spot elusive otters hunting in the shallows.

The Bird Hide: Tucked away on the edge of Ardmore Bay is a dedicated, sheltered wildlife hide. It is the perfect place to set up a camera, rest your legs, and scan the shoreline out of the wind.

Poignant Ghost Villages

The landscape carries a beautiful yet heavy history. As you explore the trails, the modern commercial forest parts to reveal the haunting stone ruins of Penalbanach (a 19th-century farmstead abandoned in the 1930s) and the old Ardmore Township . In the 20th century, these traditional agricultural smallholdings were largely swallowed up by commercial tree planting. Now that recent felling operations have cleared the canopy, the roofless, fern-clad stone dwellings—including the remnants of the old village school—stand as a quiet, atmospheric reminder of the community that once lived and worked on this coastline.

Coastal Vistas & Geology

At the furthest edge of the trail network lies Ardmore Point , Mull's most north-easterly tip. The point features a solar-powered signaling light and boasts jaw-dropping panoramic views across the water to the rugged Ardnamurchan Peninsula (the most westerly point of mainland Britain), the village of Kilchoan, and the islands of Coll and Tiree on a clear day. Keen geologists will also notice fascinating volcanic features along the shore, including ancient basalt sills and distinct onion-skin weathering in the rock faces.

Practical Visitor Tips

Getting There:From Tobermory, take the Dervaig Road (B8073) and turn off toward Glengorm. The gravel forestry car park is about 1 mile down this road on your right.

Footwear: Even though the tracks are wide and clear, the shoreline paths are notoriously "squelchy." High-quality waterproof walking boots or wellies are highly recommended.

Facilities: This is a wild, remotely managed forest. There are no public toilets or visitor centers on site, so make sure to pack in your own food and water.

Loch na Keal, Isle of Mull

After yesterday's dreadful weather we were looking forward to today. First thing of course it was raining, so we packed up straight after breakfast by which time the rain had eased and the cloud began too thin. John didn't feel well, he felt sick, just as he did yesterday. But after some paracetamol and a little food he felt able to drive to Tobermory. As we left Lochbuie, we saw the men heading out to cull the deer, sadly a task they must do.

In a field some 'bambi's' nibbled at the grass, Angela felt sad that their days may be numbered. The eight mile drive along a narrow road alongside the loch and up through temperate rain forest Angela loves, she always takes photographs as the changing seasons make for different views. As we approached Tobermory, the sun broke through. What a difference a day makes.

Showers, shared fishcakes and chips lunch before a walk around the town. We are not sure how long we will stay on Mull, as there is a car rally on this coming weekend which will involve some road closures. Also, this evening a message that John's daughter is in hospital, so we think we may need to head down to visit her, just waiting for more news.

What the internet says about where we are spending tonight. 

Key Features of Loch na Keal around Dhiseig

Dhiseig is a scenic stopping point on the northern shore of Loch na Keal on the Isle of Mull, best known as the main starting location for climbing Ben More, the island's only Munro (a mountain over 3,000 feet).

Ben More Access: A small parking area off the B8035 near Dhiseig gives direct access to the steep, rewarding southern/northern ascent routes up Ben More (966 meters or 3,169 feet). Parking spaces here are very limited and fill up quickly by mid-morning.

Stunning Views: From the shoreline near Dhiseig, you look across the deep salt-water loch toward the towering volcanic cliffs of Gribun and the dramatic slopes of the Ardmeanach peninsula.

Wildlife Watching: The area is a prime location to spot the Isle of Mull's famous wildlife. Look out for white-tailed sea eagles hunting over the water, golden eagles soaring above the crags, seals resting on coastal rocks, and otters along the shore.

The Terrain: Walks and climbs from Dhiseig involve rugged terrain, a mix of boggy grassland, and loose volcanic scree as you head higher up the mountain.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

Three of us in the small woodland parking area last night. Opposite, a very smart set up belonging to a Czechoslovakian couple.

This morning a large motorhome, arrived, determined to park. The woman passenger had the  audacity to point out the sign stated only one vehicle allowed overnight. Well, Madam, it also says, no motorhomes over 7 metres! We think the forestry commission would totally understand why we were all there, the ferry from Kilchoan had broken down and it was a two hour drive to Lochaline to catch another, so early evening we all decided to sit it out. And we don't think they would mind the thirty pounds we paid collectively to stay. Honestly, some people need to get a life! After checking this morning the ferry from Kilchoan had been fixed overnight but the crossing today was likely to be disrupted because of strong winds.

We decided to drive to Lochaline, as did our German neighbours. Although it was a long slow drive, up and over the hills, it was nice to see some beautiful scenery. Even in the rain, oxbow rivers, and trees now in full autumn colours made for a pleasant sight. After a smooth crossing from Lochaline back onto the isle of Mull where the weather was just the same as when we left in mid September, we decided  Lochbuie, under the trees would be our overnight spot.

John doesn't feel well today, so with the rain reluctant to stop, we are spending time cosy in Marge, catching up on missed television. Tomorrow looks like an improving picture, thank goodness. Unfortunately for now it's a case of, when it rains, you just have to let it rain. Remember a few weeks ago when we were praying for some to turn our grass green. The grass is certainly green here in Scotland!

What the internet says about Lochbuie

Lochbuie is a peaceful, remote coastal settlement nestled at the head of Loch Buie on the dramatic south coast of the Isle of Mull. Reached by a long, winding single-track road roughly 14 miles south-west of the Craignure ferry terminal, it feels like a world of its own. Hemmed in by the towering peak of Ben Buie, the area seamlessly blends a rich Highland history with quiet beaches, estate lands, and exceptional wildlife spotting.

Key Historic Landmarks

Lochbuie Stone Circle

This is the only complete stone circle on Mull. Dating back 4,000 to 5,000 years to the late Neolithic or early Bronze Age, the ring consists of granite stones set in a 12-metre circle, with several larger outlying stones nearby. It sits quietly in an open field framed by the mountains.

Moy Castle

Guarding the shoreline is the dramatic, roofless ruin of this 15th-century tower house. Built by the Clan Maclaine of Lochbuie—who held the estate for centuries—it features a 3-meter deep bottle dungeon and holds local legends of a headless horseman. Note: The interior is currently closed to the public due to dangerous masonry.

Lochbuie House & Mausoleum Shrine

Built in the 18th century, Lochbuie House replaced Moy Castle as the grand estate residence. Further along the coastal trail lies the MacLaine Mausoleum, an old chapel converted in 1864 that houses historic clan tombstones.

Nature & Outdoor Activities

Scenic Walks: The area is a haven for hikers. The Lochbuie Explorer Trail is a relatively straightforward, 2-hour circular route that takes in the tiny St. Kilda’s Church, the castle, the beach, and the stone circle. More adventurous walkers can take the coastal path eastward toward the sand and shingle of Laggan Sands, or follow the rugged shoreline trek west to Carsaig.

Wildlife Spotting: Because of its relative isolation, Lochbuie is an incredible vantage point for spotting classic Scottish wildlife. Keep your eyes on the skies for white-tailed sea eagles and golden eagles, or watch the shoreline for seals, otters, and red deer.

Local Hospitality: At the end of the public road sits The Old Post Office Lochbuie. This charming, family-run farm hub and café serves up local produce, hot drinks, soups, sandwiches, and home-baked cakes to refuel walkers.

Practical Tips for Visiting

Footwear: The paths to the sights—especially across the field to the stone circle—cross active farmland and can become exceptionally boggy. Good waterproof hiking boots are a must.

Drive with Care: The dead-end road leading down to Lochbuie is a classic Scottish single-track lane with passing places. Drive slowly, watch for livestock on the road, and use the passing places to let vehicles behind you overtake.

Garbh Eileen Forestry car park, Acharacle

Just four of us at the beach parking last night, which should have made for a peaceful night, except vehicle number four arrived at two-thirty this morning! Not really sure what the weather would be like today we decided to continue with our planned drive down and through Ardnamurchan to the tiny ferry terminal at Kilchoan, where we would take a boat over to Tobermory on the isle of mull. Rather than drive through Glencoe, we wanted a quieter stress less drive so we've decided to island hop instead. The scenery of Ardnamurchan is spectacular, and despite some short passing showers the day was clear. A mix of rain and sun really highlighted the colours of the trees and ferns.  Autumn is a gentle reminder that change can be beautiful. Despite driving Marge, John managed to spot hedgehog and girolle mushrooms along the verges. Of course he had to stop to pick them. Driving the roads of this area takes time, and it was lunchtime before we reached Kilchoan, only to discover the ferry was broken down on the other side at Tobermory.

After waiting some time for an update, the news was not good, it looked like we would now need to sail from Lochaline, over two hours drive away. Feeling tired and a little deflated we parked up at the RSPB car park and took a walk through the Borrowdale Nature Reserve.

The walk was moderate, up a steep incline over slippery rocky steps, and then down along boardwalks and yet more steps. But after sitting in Marge most of the day we were glad to stretch our legs.

Originally planning to stay the night here, we decided to move because of the continuous roar of the nearby waterfall, so we drove on for quite a while to a small forestry park up. There are four of us here, and we have to pay ten pounds each to stay. You must have your own inside toilet, that box ticked, we paid and then walked down to the nearby hide.

Across on the rocks seals almost hidden as their colouring blended into the surrounding landscape. Today has been a long day, but we've enjoyed returning to this area. Onward and upwards tomorrow Marge, remember, it's all about the journey, not the destination.