Uig ferry terminal, Isle of Skye

Angela commented yesterday on how lucky we have been of late with  weather, little rain, and wind. Well done Angela, in the early hours of this morning the rain drove into Marge, the wind gusted to goodness knows what speed, all in all we were a little unnerved. Come daybreak, the rain had ceased, the wind still strong, felt, more comfortable. The sky was a perfect blue, the views towards the cullin mountains were amazing.

The sheep gathered around Marge, doing what sheep do. The spot was just idyllic, and so peaceful. An Australian lady parked nearby, impressed by our set up, who isn't? We posed for photographs with Marge, before catching up on some washing, taking advantage of the wind to dry our clothes. Today, the last day of September, where has the last few months gone? This year we've moved house, spent three weeks in Scotland including a trip to Barra, returned home for five days, driven to the south of Morocco, come home for six weeks and then set off again for Scotland. And guess what, we're already thinking of next year's trips, and of course there will be at least one more this year. Visitors to the isle of Skye noticeably less now, we decided to drive to the main town of Portree, stopping on the way for a refreshment stop at Sligachan by the waterfall.

Our reason for visiting Portree was to walk the circular Scorrybreac trail. Just under two miles it is classed as moderate.

Today is a little more challenging because of the wind. It was muddy after last night's rain, but still passable. The panoramic views across to the island of Raasay and distant mountains were stunning. Walking the uneven ground along the coast is  nothing compared to the steep rocky zig zag climb back up to the road. We've done this walk before, so we knew what to expect. A decent walk deserves a reward, two ice creams please. The strong wind has been unrelenting all day, despite this it has been very warm, so we didn't mind so much. We did however mind a lot when we drove to tonight's overnight spot. Being up high, set back from the cliff edge, with spectacular views, it was a no go for us, we couldn't risk Marge being battered for a second night.

So after some deliberation we dropped down lower to the Uig ferry terminal where we've stayed overnight a couple of times before. The wind is still strong, but easing slightly. The ferry from here goes to and from the outer hebridean islands of Harris and Lewis. We visited them both a few years ago and would like to return, but that trip is for another time. We didn't envy the people boarding tonight's crossing, it would probably be more than a little uncomfortable. Looking at the weather forecast we will probably stay another night or two on Skye. Our flu jabs are booked for October 22nd so we have to be home by then. So Marge lets make the next couple of weeks really count!

Woodland Inkcap, not edible.

Tarskavaig, Isle of Skye

What a beautiful morning this morning, we awoke to a clear bright day. Our overnight spot at the foot of the Torridon red sandstone  mountains had been perfect. Stunning views, peaceful and relaxing. During the night Angela was awoken by a distance roar, as it built she realised it was a wind gust coming down the mountains, fortunately we'd parked Marge into the wind near the trees, the branches help filter the power of the gusts. Today we decided to drive and stay overnight at Strathcarron, an enchanting highlands village, but as always with us, our plans changed. Before that though, there was a drive over to Applecross to negotiate. The road, as always, once again, narrow, steep, winding with spectacular views. At one point, we could see across the water to the Old Man of Storr and the  Quirainn on the Isle of Skye.

We are just loving the scenery here, and wildlife. Spotted  today, some grouse, three golden eagles and an otter. The last time we came to Applecross it was busy, difficult to park, and well, just manic.

Today, just a handful of people, but more importantly a stall selling excellent bacon rolls, that was lunch sorted!

With a full stomach, probably not wise for Angela, we began our drive up the mountain pass road, Bealach na Ba. This dramatic mountain pass climbs to an elevation of 2,054 feet.

Angela wasn't looking forward to it, but once we reached the viewpoint carpark at the top she knew it was all downhill from there and settled into the drive. Once down off the pass, she thought John had driven the pass in the easier direction, when she drove we began at Loch Kishorn in the east, with an 22% gradient. All day the weather has been extraordinary, warm and sunny, with a brisk wind. Deciding to leave the Isle of Mull had been the right decision, since then we've had very little rain and despite a couple of colder nights the weather's been fairly settled. Whilst enjoying a refreshment stop at Strathcarron we decided, as it was only mid afternoon, to drive on to the Isle of Skye. Sadly we don't find this island such an enjoyable place to visit.

Since the bridge was built linking it to the mainland, the floodgates have been opened and the island is suffering from just too many visitors. There are half a dozen attractions which everyone visiting heads to. The Infrastructure just can't cope with the number of visitors, holiday accommodations and campsites are full, and free park ups are very limited. Fortunately, the one we're at tonight is quiet, just us. We've come onto Skye to take a ferry from Armdale to Mallaig so we don't have to drive through Glencoe which is beautiful but stressful, the traffic heavy and fast moving, Marge prefers a more relaxed drive. Before settling down at tonight's spot a walk out to find Chanterelles, this morning John enjoyed a hearty breakfast on yesterday afternoons find, and yes, these little yellow firm and fragrant fungi delivered again this evening.

As we approach October the number of camper vans and motorhomes seems less, so we think we might like to revisit and climb the Quiraing in the north of the island, weather permitting tomorrow. As with all our activities involving height, Angela will be challenged, but she'll give it a go, as they say, one life, live it!

Torridon Countryside Centre, Ross and Cromarty

Staying in a layby set back from the road, is a never again in Angela's book. Ullapool is a ferry and fishing port, and through the night the lorries rumbled by. Even with her earplugs in she could still hear them. Despite a bad night's sleep, we were up early, to take advantage of a sunny start to the day. John prefers to cook his breakfast outside if he can, and Angela prefers him to so she can sort herself out and tidy the inside of Marge. As we left Ullapool, a band of light rain crossed our path, but it didn't linger, the returning sunlight warmed us through the windows as we drove across the barren moorland towards Gairloch, a little further south on the coast. Stopping for a comfort stop, we were shocked to see someone had fly tipped a cement mixer and trailer into a stream! Don't blame us van people for this!

Gairloch is a pretty coastal village with a beautiful rose-coloured sandy sheltered beach. John picked up a couple of sea urchin shells, their spines absent, made smooth by the constant moving waters of the Atlantic.

But the pretty beach, and picturesque working harbour was not the reason we were lured there, but the newish public shower, a bit pricey, but ten minutes of hot water, (who needs to shower that long?), was welcome after a few days on the road. And as an added bonus, we saw two eagles hovering on the thermals over the harbour. We are now in Torridon, an area of outstanding natural beauty, lochs, and rocks to see at every turn of the road. And to top it all, the sun continued to warm us on this early autumn day.

A late afternoon walk to us alongside loch Torridon, after a stop at the deer museum and then  back through Torridon village, passing the adorable highland cows, who came right up to the fence to say hello.This evening, we even ate outside, as did our neighbours, a young couple with a roof tent. They are just the kind of neighbours we like, quiet. Tomorrow the forecast is for a beautiful clear sunny day. John is going to drive Marge over the notorious Bealach na Ba, a single track mountain pass road, with 20% gradients, including the steepest ascent of any road in the united kingdom, tight hairpin bends, and very few passing places. It crosses the Applecross peninsula, and when Angela drove it a few years ago in Marge II, our silver Crafter van, she had an upset stomach for two days prior at the thought of taking the pass road on. And of course, once she'd reached the viewpoint at the top, she was both relieved and elated. This time she'll be the passenger, who suffers from acrophobia. We'll let you know tomorrow how it went!