Helmsdale, Sutherland

Our merry little band of eight travellers all departed around the same time this morning, just as the rain began. Because we are both finding it hard to shake off our colds, we decided to abandon the big burn walk. The interior of Marge is tiny, and having us and wet clothing inside her is not a great mix. So instead we decided to drive further up the coast and revisit the small fishing village of Helmsdale.

Having stayed here in the past we expected great things. Sadly, we were a little disappointed. Over time some of the businesses have closed, leaving just a few. The outdoor shop, a gift shop, fish and chip shop, small supermarket, and a couple of pubs and cafes. Helmsdale is on the NC500 route, and the idea of this route, was to bring people into towns along the way to boost economies. Not so here it seems.

Doing our bit for Helmsdale, we stopped for drinks and scones at the riverside cafe, bought shopping at the Spar shop, and used the nice new public showers, costing a pound for three minutes. Unfortunately, someone has damaged the lock on the ladies shower door, so Angela used the one in the men's, whilst John explained to the men who came and went why he was loitering in a men's toilet! The cafe we'd visited early was situated in the Timespan centre. A lady in the gift shop made a negative comment about the vans. Well without them sadly this town will really suffer. Angela could sort of see why, this morning the driver of a hired campervan let out their waste water right across the carpark, she was infuriated! The same lady wished us a nice holiday. Holiday? This is our life, travelling, meeting new people, spending money in local communities.

That's one of the great things about being retired. You can do what you want, when you want, and for as long as you wish.

What the internet says about Helmsdale

Helmsdale (known in Scottish Gaelic as Bunillidh) is a picturesque coastal village perched on the edge of the North Sea in Sutherland, Scotland. Home to roughly 700 residents, this traditional fishing village is a peaceful but deeply historic stop along the famous North Coast 500 driving route.

A Deeply Rooted History

The Viking Era: Long before the modern village existed, Norse invaders sailed into the mouth of the River Ullie (now the River Helmsdale) and used it as a shelter for their longships. They named the valley Hjalmundsair—"the valley of Hjalmund".

The Highland Clearances: Helmsdale was transformed into a structured, planned community in 1814–1815. The Countess of Sutherland designed the town to forcibly resettle rural crofting families evicted from inland glens like the Strath of Kildonan. The goal was to pivot the displaced families into farming and fishing.

The Herring Boom: By the 1840s, Helmsdale’s newly built harbour had exploded into one of the largest herring fishing ports in Europe, bustling with more than 200 boats and highly skilled local women who could gut up to 50 fish a minute.

Things to See & Do

Timespan Museum and Arts Centre: This award-winning cultural hub features an archive of over 11,000 local items detailing everything from the Viking occupation to the 1869 gold rush. It also hosts a contemporary art gallery and a riverside café.

The Emigrants Statue: Located high in Couper Park on the south side of the valley, this striking monument commemorates the families forced to leave Scotland during the Clearances, acknowledging the enormous impact they made on the countries they sailed to.

World-Class Salmon Fishing: Today, Helmsdale is synonymous with elite fly fishing. The River Helmsdale is widely considered one of Europe’s finest and most exclusive Atlantic salmon rivers.

The Kildonan Gold Rush: Just a short drive inland takes you to Baile an Ór. This was the site of the great 1869 Sutherland gold rush. Visitors can still rent gold panning kits and try their luck in the burns.

Jurassic Fossil Hunting: For amateur geologists, the coastline surrounding the village is renowned as one of the best locations in Scotland for collecting Jurassic-era fossils. 

Where to Eat & Stay

Despite its modest size, Helmsdale offers authentic Highland hospitality:

La Mirage: An iconic, flamboyantly decorated local restaurant famous for serving massive portions of fresh fish and chips. 

Local Fare: Spots like Thyme and Plaice and The Garrison showcase seasonal Highland produce and fresh seafood caught right off the coast.

Accommodations: If you are staying overnight, local mainstays like the Bridge Guest House and the Helmsdale Hostel offer warm, friendly bases for exploring the wider Sutherland area.

Golspie, Sutherland

Last week on the island of Mull the weather stopped us from getting out, walk and explore. Now, we're spoiled for choice, with the weather onside, there's woodland walks, waterfall walks and walks around interesting towns and villages to enjoy. This morning, our first stop, the Falls of Shin, where if you're lucky you'll see the salmon leap up and over the powerful rapids as they make their way upstream, sadly today, the salmon were illusive.

But last year whilst in Scotland we saw salmon leap and it was amazing. Then a walk through Achany Glen and the mixed woodland where fungi were plentiful, sadly most were inedible, however John did spot a cluster of Tawny Hedgehog mushrooms, which of course are now stored safely in Marge. We even saw a red squirrel, of which there are many in Scotland, so we hope to see more.

Next seals, which never fail to turn up on the sand flats at loch fleet, Skelbo. The tide was on the turn, and there they were, jostling for the best position on the exposed sand. High tide was quite late today, so we wouldn't see them as they slid back into the water as the waves broke over them. So seals, salmon spotting, red squirrels and foraging ticked it was time to source an overnight spot.

Nearby Golspie on the far side opposite Skelbo looked perfect, a small village with overnight parking for vans right on the seafront, sounded good to us. Marge was comfortable, so we walked along the seafront to Dunrobin castle.

 The largest castle in the Highlands with one hundred and eighty nine rooms, this striking building resembling a french chateau looks spectacular as it overlooks the Moray Firth. By late afternoon we were tired, we walked over five miles today, which doesn't sound far, but as we are still both under the weather suffering with a prolonged really annoying cold, we were pleased with our efforts. Tomorrow's weather looks a little iffy, but before we leave this area we'd like to walk the nearby 'Big Burn', a walk through a gorge to a waterfall. After so much rain last week we are hoping the waterfall really delivers, so we'll be donning waterproof jackets and trousers in readiness, because if you only walk on sunny days, you'll never reach your destination.

Here is yet another mushroom NOT to eat, Angela Wings. We found a lot today on our walk, and although they look similar to Oyster mushrooms, you must not eat them. 

What the internet says about Golspie

Golspie is a charming coastal village and parish in Sutherland, located in the Scottish Highlands. Home to a tight-knit population of around 1,350 residents, it sits snugly between the North Sea coast and the towering, 395-metre hill of Ben Bhraggie. Positioned directly along the famous North Coast 500 (NC500) route, Golspie is a vibrant local hub known for its rich history, spectacular walking trails, and fairytale architecture.

Top Attractions

Dunrobin Castle: Located just north of the village, this jaw-dropping 189-room French-style chateau is the historic seat of the Dukes of Sutherland. Dating back to the 1300s, it is one of Britain’s oldest continuously inhabited houses. Visitors can tour its grand rooms, stroll through elaborate formal gardens inspired by Versailles, and watch daily falconry displays during the summer months.

Ben Bhraggie & "The Mannie": Looming over the town is Ben Bhraggie. At its peak stands a controversial 100-foot-tall monument of the 1st Duke of Sutherland (known locally as "The Mannie"), who was notorious for his role in the Highland Clearances. A rewarding 4-hour hike up the hill awards walkers with sweeping views across the Dornoch Firth and out to sea.

The Big Burn Walk: A spectacular, easily accessible woodland walk that follows a rushing gorge up to a series of stunning waterfalls. In late spring, the forest floor blooms with a vibrant carpet of wild bluebells.

Golspie Beach: A pristine, award-winning three-mile stretch of sandy coastline perfect for walks. It features a small, historic stone pier and harbour jutting out into the sea.

History & Culture

The name Golspie derives from the old Norse for "gully village," showing its deep Viking roots. While it originally began as a quiet fishing hamlet, the village expanded significantly in the early 19th century to house crofters who had been brutally evicted from inland glens during the Highland Clearances. The arrival of the railway in 1868 transformed it into a trendy Victorian resort town. In fact, Queen Victoria herself stayed at Dunrobin Castle for a week in 1872 and famously rode a pony up to the Big Burn waterfall. Over the years, it has even welcomed music royalty—in 1969, John Lennon, Yoko Ono, and their children spent several days recovering at the local Lawson Memorial Hospital after a car accident nearby.

Village Amenities & Leisure

Today, Golspie serves as an important service centre for the wider Sutherland district. It is packed with exceptional facilities for both locals and travelers:

Outdoor Sports: Golspie boasts a scenic 18-hole golf course that blends links and heathland terrain. It also has premium mountain biking trails winding down Ben Bhraggie.

Local Infrastructure: Unlike many remote Highland villages, it features a swimming pool, public library, high school, local hospital, and a fitness centre.

Food & Drink: The town offers an excellent selection of independent shops, cafes like the cozy Coffee Bothy, and one of the Highlands' best fish and chip shops. For a traditional meal, the historic Golspie Inn—a coaching inn dating back over two centuries—serves up classic Scottish dishes like Cullen skink and local single malt whiskies.

Bonar Bridge, Kyle of Sutherland

It is said, a, watched kettle that never boils, dolphins that don't turn up when expected, disappointing.

This morning however, a wet walk through the fairy glen in Rosemarkie ended with a visit to the Crofters Cafe on the seafront, where amazingly we saw two dolphins pass nonchalantly by!

Everything comes to those who wait! Refreshed by our refreshments, the persistent drizzle dampening the day, and our spirits, we set off to somewhere north. Realising, we didn't really know where, we thought it might be a good idea to pull into a layby, make some lunch, and a loose plan. In this area at a place called Skelbo, where we've stayed twice before, a large colony of seals can be seen at low tide on the sand flats. Sadly, you can no longer stay in the parking area overnight, but we would like to drive there tomorrow to watch the seals a while before moving on a little further.

We hope the weather stays onside, despite being colder, it is more settled now. So tomorrow Skelbo, then over to Stac Pollaidh, weather permitting, and then back across to the west coast to Ullapool for some of the best fish and chips in Scotland, after Tobermory of course.  Today, a slogan on the back of a van reads, 'Those who wander are not lost'. We certainly wander, and we're definitely not lost, we're at Bonar Bridge!

What the internet says about Bonar Bridge 

Bonar Bridge is a picturesque village in the Scottish Highlands, situated on the north bank of the Kyle of Sutherland. Originally a critical point for driving cattle across the tidal waters, the settlement was simply known as "Bonar" until its namesake engineering marvel connected the banks in 1812. Today, it serves as a tranquil, scenic base for exploring Sutherland and the wider Highlands.

The Three Bridges

The village is defined by the history of its river crossings, tracked by a monument cairn at the edge of the water: 

The Telford Bridge (1812–1892): Engineered by the legendary Thomas Telford, this innovative cast-iron arch bridge cost under £10,000. It stood for 80 years before being violently swept away during the historic North of Scotland floods on 29 January 1892—an event allegedly predicted by the local mythic figure, the Brahan Seer. 

The Arrol Bridge (1893–1973): Rebuilt using a three-span iron girder design by Sir William Arrol, the engineer famous for the Forth Bridge. 

The Modern Bridge (1973–Present): The current steel bowstring arch structure offers panoramic views over the firth and accommodates modern vehicle and pedestrian traffic. 

Geography & Atmosphere

Bonar Bridge sits right where the Dornoch Firth narrows into the Kyle of Sutherland. Four salmon-rich rivers—the Oykel, Cassley, Shin, and Carron—all feed into the estuary right above the village. 

For generations, the village was a bustling hub on the main A9 artery heading up to Caithness. However, since the opening of the Dornoch Firth Bridge bypassed the loop in 1991, it has transformed into a peaceful, relaxing haven surrounded by steep, wooded slopes. 

Local History & Surrounding Lore

The immediate area holds incredible, sometimes dark historical significance: 

Carbisdale Castle: Visible just up the road, this striking Edwardian castle was built out of pure spite. Following a bitter family feud, the Dowager Duchess of Sutherland built it just outside family lands, deliberately leaving the castle clock tower blank on the side facing the Sutherland estate to "never give them the time of day". 

The Highland Clearances: Nearby Croick Church stands as a solemn monument to the 1840s evictions. Displaced families took refuge in the churchyard and scratched desperate, heartbreaking messages into the glass windowpanes, which are still visible today. 

Battle of Carbisdale (1650): The final battle of the Royalist general, the Marquess of Montrose, was fought nearby. He was defeated, disguised himself as a peasant to escape across the Kyle, but was quickly betrayed and executed.

Things to Do

Outdoor Activities: The calm waters are highly popular for canoeing and paddleboarding, while the surrounding trails are excellent for walking circuits and cycling.

Wildlife Spotting: Look out for red deer, pine martens, and rare Scottish wildcats in the dense local woods.

Falls of Shin: Located just a few miles north, this is one of the premier spots in Scotland to watch wild salmon leaping upstream between June and September.

Golf: The village features its own scenic 9-hole golf course.