Camping Azilan, Chefchaouen, Morocco

Angela is unwell again. For the last two days she's been suffering with headaches, and now has a really bad cold, so last night was yet another night of no sleep for her. There's something really miserable about being ill at the best of times, but being unwell away from home makes it doubly so. Despite feeling awful, she was happy to pack up Marge and set off into the Rif mountains to Chefchaouen. The drive was longer than John would have liked, but we will be leaving Morocco soon, and the mountainside town of Chefchaouen was on our list of places to visit, so we couldn't leave without stopping there, we'd feel we'd left Morocco with unfinished business.

It is much warmer here than on the coast, almost 30c, but at least there's a breeze coming down off the mountains which surround us. Hopefully tomorrow Angela will feel much better and we'll walk down to the town. We are in Berber country here, so there just might be a chance of Angela being able to buy the Berber straw hat she would like.

As for tonight's campsite, overpriced with terrible facilities, but it's the only one in the area so they can get away with it.

Just four of us here to enjoy the the stunning views of Morocco's northern landscape, which makes the extortionate price to stay here more bearable.

No stowaways please, I know someone who would love you, but honestly we've no room!

Asilah, Morocco (day 2)

At last, a peaceful night's sleep! Why couldn't every night be like this? Feeling relaxed, not having the stress of driving today, we did the washing, tidied Marge, and walked along the seafront to the town to buy fruit, stopping at a seafront cafe for refreshments. We felt chilled. 

Asilah is a very nice town. Fifteenth century ramparts, built by the Portuguese which have stood the test of time house the whitewashed walls of the Medina which was being given a coat of paint in readiness for the holiday season which begins here on July 1st.

During the summer artists come from all over the world to paint street art on these walls. Since our last visit here almost four weeks ago the town has undergone a transformation. Painting, rubbish removal, shrub and tree trimming, and watering is happening everywhere in readiness for the visitors.

There's no health and safety here. Wooden ladders and platforms do the same job as secure steel scaffolding back at home. We really like Asilah. It has a relaxed vibe and feels very safe. However, they do like a 'bit of bling' here. The land train looked very Christmassy, but obviously not, as this is a Muslim country. Food trucks adorned by rope lighting that lit the pavement showcased the fun side of Morocco. 

And on the subject of health and safety, doesn't everybody have a light switch at waist level in their shower? Common practice here. Please don't try this at home!

Asilah, Morocco

We did not travel on to Fez today. We have come to the realization that being here in Morocco in the low season, albeit the temperatures have been in the high thirties, that we are just bumbling around. The experience we were hoping for really is more accessible during the winter months, high season here, when temperatures are lower and there are many more visitors. At this time it will be safer to wild camp. On this trip we have had to ensure every night we have security watching us. In the season, in the country and desert areas there will be safety in numbers. Therefore we will return here later in the year, or early next year. So for now we've decided to move back to the coast. At first we thought about stopping again at the homestay we enjoyed at Moulay-Bousselham, but in reflection although we'd enjoyed it there, the area was, well to be honest not the best. Lots of rubbish and once away from the homestay we felt vulnerable. So it was decided we'd drive for a few hours longer and return to Asilah. The campsite at Asilah was where we stayed the first two nights in Morocco, and we liked it. The town was interesting and we found it relaxing. On the way across from Meknes we were surprised to find ourselves in a thriving agricultural area.

It felt unreal to still be in Morocco, we could have been in France or Spain. All the towns we passed through were full of life. Stalls of colourful fruit and vegetables, alongside others selling household items. Here, if you want to buy something, you visit a market or the Souk. And in amongst all the bustle, we stumbled upon a very smart cafe.

Tea and coffee just £1.76. We are going to find the European countries we drive through on our way home very expensive after being here. After changing our travel plans, we left the potholed national highway, with some holes so large we could have lost Marge in them, and headed to the toll road. Now here we are back in Asilah where we will stay for two nights. Angela hasn't slept well whilst in Morocco.

Her best nights sleep was here at Asilah, so she's looking forward to some much needed rest. This evening a meal in town, expensive for what it was by Moroccan standards. As the sun went down this evening, a sunset of black and red smeared across the sky. The temperature a comfortable 26c. Our time in Morocco isn't over yet, but now we feel we can slow down and relax a little more.

Avenue Bab Marrah, Meknes (Morocco 50030)

Delicious as last night's meal out had been, it had been a little on the spicy side, and contained whole chickpeas which don't agree with Angela. So before we were ready to leave this morning we popped to the nearby Carrefour supermarket to stock up on loo rolls! When we embarked on our journey to Morocco, Angela read on the Internet it wouldn't be easy to buy toilet paper. Funnily enough, it's available everywhere. There was no need for us to pack Marge to the gunnels with it when we left Spain. Another day, another toll road. They make for a faster journey, and don't shake Marge about so much as some of the other roads here. Another plus is, we get to stop at service areas for food and drink. The prices at the service areas here are no more expensive than anywhere else, and that includes the fuel. Talking of fuel, Marge is living the dream. The cost of the 'good stuff', is around £1.20 a litre, so we're making sure she's given plenty of it. By the time we return home her engine should be as clean as a whistle. Our destination today, Meknes, a former imperial city. Our overnight parking, right by the entrance to the Royal Golf Course, so plenty of security for us and Marge. Across the road, The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail.

Entering the main gateway we did not expect to be visiting such a stunning building. The architecture tasteful and beautiful. White marble columns, hand cut geometric tiling, huge wooden doors and colourful prayer mats. The cost to visit, nothing. Free, gratis. We are around eighty miles inland from the coast now, and the increase in temperature is noticeable, although it is slightly cooler than England. Despite the heat we walked around the Medina. Angela is beginning to feel she's had her fill of medinas.

This evening as the sun slipped away, a sky of rose and magenta back lit Marge. A cool breeze blew for the first time since we arrived in Morocco, it was most welcome.

Tomorrow Marge a short drive on to Fez, and sorry Angela, no doubt another Medina!

From yesterday's end of the blog photo, the front bumper had been tie wrapped back on by this morning!