Fidden Farm Campsite, Fionnphort (day 2)

Yesterday evening's beautiful sunset was followed by a bright clear start this morning. The weather settled, with no rain forecast we dealt with our chores before walking down to Fionnphort to catch the short ferry crossing to the tiny island of Iona.

We visited here a few years ago, and the weather was warm, just as it was today. The weather in Scotland messes with your head. How can it be so glorious one day, and horrible the next? The island of Iona is famous for its beautiful restored medieval abbey and white sand beaches. Around 130,000 visitors visit each year, and today we became two of that number. Most of today's visitors seemed to be American.

 Finding a quiet spot in the garden of the Argyll Hotel overlooking the Sound of Iona towards Mull, just one mile away, we unpacked our lunch. Angela bought drinks from the bar and we settled down to a relaxed Sunday afternoon whilst enjoying warm sunshine and incredible views. Once again the weather had, delivered, we couldn't have wished for better.

Reluctant to leave our 'seats with a view', we walked up to the ruins of the medieval nunnery and then to the nearby graveyard where the John Smith, leader of the Labor party for almost two years before his untimely death, is buried.

As the sun warmed us, Angela felt an ice cream was in order. It might now be autumn, but sun and warmth in September equals late summer in her books. Our brief visit to Iona, over, we boarded the return ferry. Back at Marge John sorted out wood to cook the local venison sausages we bought a few days ago. The wind up, a chill returned to the air. Our spot on the campsite is right by the sea. As the tide crept in, John spotted a small, slender dark chocolate brown animal scuttling in and around the nearby granite rocks. Was it a small otter? No, it was an American mink! What a sighting, our first ever mink, what a perfect end to the day.

Fidden Farm Campsite, Fionnphort

What a miserable night! As forecast the rain began falling heavily at two this morning and didn't relent until about eight. Outside Marge's back door was a large puddle. We have never experienced rain like it whilst visiting Mull. We could only hope the promised settled weather this afternoon would materialize. Whilst we're here, Angela wants us once again to visit the tiny island of Iona, just off the south western tip of Mull.

So full of optimism for an improving picture we packed up a soggy Marge and began the long drive to Fiannophort, where we would stay once again on the Fidden Farm campsite. As we trundled along wet roads, the views obscured by low clouds we could only hope Mull would deliver on the weather.

Quite often here a day starts wet and ends with beautiful sunshine, so fingers crossed. With such high precipitation these last few days the waterfalls that streaked down the mountains, visible through the cloud dropped almost vertically, the waters bouncing down towards the plunge pools below. Booking in at the farm campsite Angela mentioned the deluge we'd experienced last night as was told by the lady attending to her that Lochbuie, where we'd stayed was the wettest place on the island last night. Let's hope all is calm tonight. This area of ​​Mull is renowned for being windy, so Angela has been monitoring the weather to make sure all would be calm on our visit here. As promised the sun saw off the clouds and the afternoon weather delivered. We walked out around the beach collecting shells with the farm cat following John everywhere.

Angela spotted a seal out on one of the rocks, and we watched it until the rising tide prompted it to slip into the oily black sea water.

Shortly after we spotted another. This evening the tide was high, almost lapping at Marge's wheels, we watched the sun go down.

The light was stunning, what a difference to the gloomy start to the day this morning. That's Mull for you, it's full of surprises!

Click on the seal photo to watch a video of the seal on our YouTube channel.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (day 2)

Today the weather set to be settled Angela decided it would be a good idea to hand wash a few items. Life on the road can sometimes be challenging, especially when it comes to washing. But after three weeks in Scotland earlier this year, nine weeks in Europe and Morocco after that, and now back in Scotland we think we've nailed it. Jobs done, there was no need to rush as we were staying another night here at Lochbuie.

So a walk along the coast looking for otters, sadly no sightings today, but we did spot a seal and a sea eagle. We love it here. It's quiet, picturesque, calm, and because we come here so often a couple of locals recognise us. However, despite it being September, the midges are still on the attack, driving us inside Marge early evening.

Thank goodness we decided to cook our main meal outside on our grill this afternoon rather than later, bread for Angela, couscous for John. Despite the changeable weather and the midges the island is busy with visitors, but we manage to find a few quiet places to stop overnight and walk out. So tomorrow, we will probably move on to a new location. As always, the weather will dictate where.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

We have spent many a night in Marge, on Mull over the last few years and we think last night's overnight weather was probably the worst. Unrelenting strong gusty winds and rain. So this morning we hunkered down in bed until ten, when we decided to breakfast and pack up as quickly as possible. Lochbuie is our chosen spot in a storm, and after a quick stop at the Spar in Salen we were on our way. Fortunately the space under the trees near the tea room isn't accessible to everyone so Marge drove straight in.

The trees around provide shelter, and we still have a view of the loch. It's busy here. Probably because it's only five pounds a night in the honesty box. Toilet available twenty four hours, and water to top up your tank available, although not drinkable. Sounds like a bargain doesn't it? And an added bonus, The Old Post Office tearoom on site ready to serve breakfast if you wish. It was late afternoon before the rain stopped.

A tall ship sought shelter close to the shore, we didn't envy the people staying on it. After being confined to Marge we were glad to eventually break out, walking up to Moy castle.

The waterfalls and rivers normally run steadily, today tumbling, foaming, bouncing over rocks at pace, we'd never seen the like here. No otters spotted today, but we did see a Dipper briefly diving under the water in the fast flowing stream. This evening thunderstorms and more rain. Oh joy. Tomorrow is an improving picture, thank goodness. Would we rather be at home where it's sunny, or here in Scotland. Well, you can always wrap up against the weather, or just stay inside, read and enjoy the ever changing landscape. So Scotland wins. More settled weather would be nice though, if only just a little, as a consolation it's curry night at tonight!