A night spent in Marge in Portree wasn't ideal, but at least we were out of the wind. As promised the rain fell heavily this morning, with the forecast not looking so good we decided to change our ferry booking and from tomorrow to later this afternoon and return to Mallaig on the mainland. Before leaving the islands we took showers at the Skye Gym. Not cheap at £6.00 each, but we didn't mind, you having the use of a full wet room with a decent thermostatic mixer shower for as long as you wish.
So shopping and showers all done, we drove back to Armadale, the rain clouds never far away.
Heavy rain makes for fantastic waterfalls and dramatic scenery, but unfortunately it also means we can't really walk out as it's difficult to dry wet clothes in Marge.
So early evening we were back on the mainland just a few miles from Mallaig at Morar beach. We've been here twice before and both times the weather has been glorious, sadly not so today.
However, the weather did settle for a while, and we were able to walk out along the white sand beach, stopping for some adult fun along the way. Are you ever too old to have a go on a rope swing?
What the internet has to say about the beaches of Morar and others nearby
The Silver Sands of Morar are a breathtaking, continuous chain of brilliant white-sand beaches interspersed with rocky coves along the west coast of Scotland. Located in Lochaber within the Scottish Highlands—strung along the scenic B8008 coast road between Arisaig and Morar—these beaches are famous for their powder-soft sand (made of crushed quartz and coral) and crystalline, turquoise waters that frequently draw comparisons to the Caribbean.
The spectacular coastline looks directly out onto the Atlantic toward the Inner Hebridean Small Isles of Rum, Eigg, Muck, and Canna, providing some of the most cinematic sunset views in the country.
The Four Main Beaches
While commonly grouped under one title, the "Silver Sands" actually comprise several distinct expanses flanking the tidal mouth and estuary of the River Morar:
Morar Beach & Tougal Beach (Southern Bank): Easily accessible from the main tourist car parks. Tougal Beach boasts a gently sloping shelf of sand facing calmer waters, making it the area's premier spot for safe wild swimming and launching paddleboards or kayaks. The main Morar strand sits right by the river channel.
Bourblach Beach (Northern Bank): Tucked away on the quieter, more remote side of the river. Reached via a boggy but highly scenic walk from Morar village, it offers complete isolation and pristine coastal greenery.
Sgeir Dubh / Black Rock Beach: Punctuated by dark metamorphic rock formations that create an incredible visual contrast with the blindingly white sand, offering a sheltered haven for exploring shallow rock pools.
Camusdarach Beach: Located just a short trek further south down the coast road, this massive crescent beach is physically connected to the network at low tide and features towering sand dunes.
Silver Screen Stardom
If the landscape feels familiar, it is likely because it has played a starring role in cinematic history. The striking white sands and crystalline dunes served as the primary filming location for Bill Forsyth's iconic 1983 comedy-drama Local Hero, starring Burt Lancaster. It also stood in for the historic Highlands backdrop in the 1986 fantasy-action classic Highlander.
What to Do There
Beachcombing & Wading: Low tide uncovers immense sandy flats, linking up tiny islands and exposing fantastic rock pools packed with marine life, ideal for families.
Paddleboarding & Kayaking: Paddling from beach to beach along the estuary is highly popular. The waters are crystal-clear, allowing you to see all the way to the sandy floor below.
Coastal Walking: The area ranks among Britain's finest walking coastlines. You can easily pick up a path from the Walkhighlands Silver Sands Trail Guide to find the secret, secluded pockets of the bay.
Horseback Riding: Local outfits like the Silversands Trekking Centre offer guided horse riding treks directly across the white sands.
Parking & Crowds: Parking is free but highly limited. During peak summer days, the lot fills up quickly, and roadside overflow parking is heavily restricted due to local over-tourism. Visit early in the morning or during the shoulder seasons (spring/autumn) to enjoy the sands in peace.
Getting There: If you aren't driving, the beach is uniquely accessible via public transport. You can ride the world-famous West Highland Line train from Fort William to Morar Station, which leaves you just a short walk from the shoreline.
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