Morar Beach car park, Mallaig

A night spent in Marge in Portree wasn't ideal, but at least we were out of the wind. As promised the rain fell heavily this morning, with the forecast not looking so good we decided to change our ferry booking and from tomorrow to later this afternoon and return to Mallaig on the mainland. Before leaving the islands we took showers at the Skye Gym. Not cheap at £6.00 each, but we didn't mind, you having the use of a full wet room with a decent thermostatic mixer shower for as long as you wish.

So shopping and showers all done, we drove back to Armadale, the rain clouds never far away.

Heavy rain makes for fantastic waterfalls and dramatic scenery, but unfortunately it also means we can't really walk out as it's difficult to dry wet clothes in Marge.

So early evening we were back on the mainland just a few miles from Mallaig at Morar beach. We've been here twice before and both times the weather has been glorious, sadly not so today.

However, the weather did settle for a while, and we were able to walk out along the white sand beach, stopping for some adult fun along the way. Are you ever too old to have a go on a rope swing?

What the internet has to say about the beaches of Morar and others nearby

The Silver Sands of Morar are a breathtaking, continuous chain of brilliant white-sand beaches interspersed with rocky coves along the west coast of Scotland. Located in Lochaber within the Scottish Highlands—strung along the scenic B8008 coast road between Arisaig and Morar—these beaches are famous for their powder-soft sand (made of crushed quartz and coral) and crystalline, turquoise waters that frequently draw comparisons to the Caribbean.

The spectacular coastline looks directly out onto the Atlantic toward the Inner Hebridean Small Isles of Rum, Eigg, Muck, and Canna, providing some of the most cinematic sunset views in the country.

The Four Main Beaches

While commonly grouped under one title, the "Silver Sands" actually comprise several distinct expanses flanking the tidal mouth and estuary of the River Morar:

Morar Beach & Tougal Beach (Southern Bank): Easily accessible from the main tourist car parks. Tougal Beach boasts a gently sloping shelf of sand facing calmer waters, making it the area's premier spot for safe wild swimming and launching paddleboards or kayaks. The main Morar strand sits right by the river channel.

Bourblach Beach (Northern Bank): Tucked away on the quieter, more remote side of the river. Reached via a boggy but highly scenic walk from Morar village, it offers complete isolation and pristine coastal greenery.

Sgeir Dubh / Black Rock Beach: Punctuated by dark metamorphic rock formations that create an incredible visual contrast with the blindingly white sand, offering a sheltered haven for exploring shallow rock pools.

Camusdarach Beach: Located just a short trek further south down the coast road, this massive crescent beach is physically connected to the network at low tide and features towering sand dunes.

Silver Screen Stardom

If the landscape feels familiar, it is likely because it has played a starring role in cinematic history. The striking white sands and crystalline dunes served as the primary filming location for Bill Forsyth's iconic 1983 comedy-drama Local Hero, starring Burt Lancaster. It also stood in for the historic Highlands backdrop in the 1986 fantasy-action classic Highlander.

What to Do There

Beachcombing & Wading: Low tide uncovers immense sandy flats, linking up tiny islands and exposing fantastic rock pools packed with marine life, ideal for families.

Paddleboarding & Kayaking: Paddling from beach to beach along the estuary is highly popular. The waters are crystal-clear, allowing you to see all the way to the sandy floor below.

Coastal Walking: The area ranks among Britain's finest walking coastlines. You can easily pick up a path from the Walkhighlands Silver Sands Trail Guide to find the secret, secluded pockets of the bay.

Horseback Riding: Local outfits like the Silversands Trekking Centre offer guided horse riding treks directly across the white sands.

Parking & Crowds: Parking is free but highly limited. During peak summer days, the lot fills up quickly, and roadside overflow parking is heavily restricted due to local over-tourism. Visit early in the morning or during the shoulder seasons (spring/autumn) to enjoy the sands in peace.

Getting There: If you aren't driving, the beach is uniquely accessible via public transport. You can ride the world-famous West Highland Line train from Fort William to Morar Station, which leaves you just a short walk from the shoreline.

Morar Beach Car Park, near Mallaig

This morning we were tired. And tense. Would our early start pay off. Fingers crossed. At a quarter to six we drove out, the white horses in the adjacent field puzzled at our departure. The wind was light as it blew threw the bog cotton. And it felt a little warmer. But we were off to find the sun. North Uist had made us miserable, that needed remedying. 

Yes we caught the early ferry. Us and three others standbys hoping to escape. John drove Marge on whilst Angela boarded as a foot passenger after a dash to the ticket office. The run up the gangplank testing her fitness, but the thought of being left behind on the island fuelled her. She was the last person to board and now the ship could leave.

Whilst waiting in the vehicle queue we met a lady from Australia. She'd been due to leave later today, but like us had seen enough. We sat together during the crossing whilst breakfasting and enjoying each other's conversations. Before we knew it the Calmac ferry Hebrides was veering to one side as it turned into it's berth at Uig harbour.

We'd returned to Skye and the sun was out. It was warm. We were happy again, but very tired. Stopping to buy yet more food, conscious of the ever increasing food bill we'd be paying when our next credit card bill came in, we decided to head down to Armadale and try to board a ferry back to Mallaig. The ferry booking system showed there were no spaces, but we knew there might be if we arrived in good time.

Our drive through the mountains and vistas of Skye filled us with joy. We'd missed these views, and we welcomed the warmth of the sun on our normally shivering bodies. Coffee and cake to comfort us we waited to see if we'd be able to board the last ferry of the day. Whilst waiting we talked to an Irish coach driver about Ireland's wild Atlantic way. A drive that's on our bucket list to do. After a teasing by the ferry staff as to whether we'd be boarding or not, we were manoeuvred on at the rear of the ferry, along with four other vehicles. Result!

So now we are back at the beautiful beach near Mallaig we stayed at last weekend. It's not quite as busy, but we still had to wait for a space. Which was fine. Once parked up a lovely picnic on the beach for our evening meal.

Tomorrow we will start heading back towards the Isle of Mull. Our happy place.

Morar Beach Car Park, near Mallaig.

There is much spectacular scenery and many tranquil places in Scotland, to us Ardtoe is one of them. Always beautiful, always quiet. But we've stayed here a few times now, so after taking advantage of the unlimited fresh water available by the old fisherman's shed to catch up on our washing, we decided to move a little nearer to Mallaig. But every stopping place was either too near the road, or already occupied by a person living in a van or caravan. Perhaps we should have stayed at Ardtoe. Fortunately John discovered that the beach car park at Morar allowed vans to stay overnight at a cost of ten pounds. 

Ten pounds well spent we think. Arriving just after lunch we waited patiently for someone to leave then bagged a space. Toilets open twenty-four hours, always a bonus, and a walk through some trees to a beautiful vast beach of silver sand made us glad we'd made the decision to move. 

All day Muddy Marge has been admired. Cool camper. Cool truck. And from a five year old boy. I like your cool car. It's official, she's cool.

Many people ask us where we're journeying to. We're not sure. Perhaps our answer should be, no destination, is the destination.