Our merry little band of eight travellers all departed around the same time this morning, just as the rain began. Because we are both finding it hard to shake off our colds, we decided to abandon the big burn walk. The interior of Marge is tiny, and having us and wet clothing inside her is not a great mix. So instead we decided to drive further up the coast and revisit the small fishing village of Helmsdale.
Having stayed here in the past we expected great things. Sadly, we were a little disappointed. Over time some of the businesses have closed, leaving just a few. The outdoor shop, a gift shop, fish and chip shop, small supermarket, and a couple of pubs and cafes. Helmsdale is on the NC500 route, and the idea of this route, was to bring people into towns along the way to boost economies. Not so here it seems.
Doing our bit for Helmsdale, we stopped for drinks and scones at the riverside cafe, bought shopping at the Spar shop, and used the nice new public showers, costing a pound for three minutes. Unfortunately, someone has damaged the lock on the ladies shower door, so Angela used the one in the men's, whilst John explained to the men who came and went why he was loitering in a men's toilet! The cafe we'd visited early was situated in the Timespan centre. A lady in the gift shop made a negative comment about the vans. Well without them sadly this town will really suffer. Angela could sort of see why, this morning the driver of a hired campervan let out their waste water right across the carpark, she was infuriated! The same lady wished us a nice holiday. Holiday? This is our life, travelling, meeting new people, spending money in local communities.
That's one of the great things about being retired. You can do what you want, when you want, and for as long as you wish.
What the internet says about Helmsdale
Helmsdale (known in Scottish Gaelic as Bunillidh) is a picturesque coastal village perched on the edge of the North Sea in Sutherland, Scotland. Home to roughly 700 residents, this traditional fishing village is a peaceful but deeply historic stop along the famous North Coast 500 driving route.
A Deeply Rooted History
The Viking Era: Long before the modern village existed, Norse invaders sailed into the mouth of the River Ullie (now the River Helmsdale) and used it as a shelter for their longships. They named the valley Hjalmundsair—"the valley of Hjalmund".
The Highland Clearances: Helmsdale was transformed into a structured, planned community in 1814–1815. The Countess of Sutherland designed the town to forcibly resettle rural crofting families evicted from inland glens like the Strath of Kildonan. The goal was to pivot the displaced families into farming and fishing.
The Herring Boom: By the 1840s, Helmsdale’s newly built harbour had exploded into one of the largest herring fishing ports in Europe, bustling with more than 200 boats and highly skilled local women who could gut up to 50 fish a minute.
Things to See & Do
Timespan Museum and Arts Centre: This award-winning cultural hub features an archive of over 11,000 local items detailing everything from the Viking occupation to the 1869 gold rush. It also hosts a contemporary art gallery and a riverside café.
The Emigrants Statue: Located high in Couper Park on the south side of the valley, this striking monument commemorates the families forced to leave Scotland during the Clearances, acknowledging the enormous impact they made on the countries they sailed to.
World-Class Salmon Fishing: Today, Helmsdale is synonymous with elite fly fishing. The River Helmsdale is widely considered one of Europe’s finest and most exclusive Atlantic salmon rivers.
The Kildonan Gold Rush: Just a short drive inland takes you to Baile an Ór. This was the site of the great 1869 Sutherland gold rush. Visitors can still rent gold panning kits and try their luck in the burns.
Jurassic Fossil Hunting: For amateur geologists, the coastline surrounding the village is renowned as one of the best locations in Scotland for collecting Jurassic-era fossils.
Where to Eat & Stay
Despite its modest size, Helmsdale offers authentic Highland hospitality:
La Mirage: An iconic, flamboyantly decorated local restaurant famous for serving massive portions of fresh fish and chips.
Local Fare: Spots like Thyme and Plaice and The Garrison showcase seasonal Highland produce and fresh seafood caught right off the coast.
Accommodations: If you are staying overnight, local mainstays like the Bridge Guest House and the Helmsdale Hostel offer warm, friendly bases for exploring the wider Sutherland area.
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