Wednesday, 23 September 2026

Golspie, Sutherland

Last week on the island of Mull the weather stopped us from getting out, walk and explore. Now, we're spoiled for choice, with the weather onside, there's woodland walks, waterfall walks and walks around interesting towns and villages to enjoy. This morning, our first stop, the Falls of Shin, where if you're lucky you'll see the salmon leap up and over the powerful rapids as they make their way upstream, sadly today, the salmon were illusive.




But last year whilst in Scotland we saw salmon leap and it was amazing. Then a walk through Achany Glen and the mixed woodland where fungi were plentiful, sadly most were inedible, however John did spot a cluster of Tawny Hedgehog mushrooms, which of course are now stored safely in Marge. We even saw a red squirrel, of which there are many in Scotland, so we hope to see more.




Next seals, which never fail to turn up on the sand flats at loch fleet, Skelbo. The tide was on the turn, and there they were, jostling for the best position on the exposed sand. High tide was quite late today, so we wouldn't see them as they slid back into the water as the waves broke over them. So seals, salmon spotting, red squirrels and foraging ticked it was time to source an overnight spot.





Nearby Golspie on the far side opposite Skelbo looked perfect, a small village with overnight parking for vans right on the seafront, sounded good to us. Marge was comfortable, so we walked along the seafront to Dunrobin castle.






 The largest castle in the Highlands with one hundred and eighty nine rooms, this striking building resembling a french chateau looks spectacular as it overlooks the Moray Firth. By late afternoon we were tired, we walked over five miles today, which doesn't sound far, but as we are still both under the weather suffering with a prolonged really annoying cold, we were pleased with our efforts. Tomorrow's weather looks a little iffy, but before we leave this area we'd like to walk the nearby 'Big Burn', a walk through a gorge to a waterfall. After so much rain last week we are hoping the waterfall really delivers, so we'll be donning waterproof jackets and trousers in readiness, because if you only walk on sunny days, you'll never reach your destination.

Here is yet another mushroom NOT to eat, Angela Wings. We found a lot today on our walk, and although they look similar to Oyster mushrooms, you must not eat them. 

What the internet says about Golspie

Golspie is a charming coastal village and parish in Sutherland, located in the Scottish Highlands. Home to a tight-knit population of around 1,350 residents, it sits snugly between the North Sea coast and the towering, 395-metre hill of Ben Bhraggie. Positioned directly along the famous North Coast 500 (NC500) route, Golspie is a vibrant local hub known for its rich history, spectacular walking trails, and fairytale architecture.

Top Attractions

Dunrobin Castle: Located just north of the village, this jaw-dropping 189-room French-style chateau is the historic seat of the Dukes of Sutherland. Dating back to the 1300s, it is one of Britain’s oldest continuously inhabited houses. Visitors can tour its grand rooms, stroll through elaborate formal gardens inspired by Versailles, and watch daily falconry displays during the summer months.

Ben Bhraggie & "The Mannie": Looming over the town is Ben Bhraggie. At its peak stands a controversial 100-foot-tall monument of the 1st Duke of Sutherland (known locally as "The Mannie"), who was notorious for his role in the Highland Clearances. A rewarding 4-hour hike up the hill awards walkers with sweeping views across the Dornoch Firth and out to sea.

The Big Burn Walk: A spectacular, easily accessible woodland walk that follows a rushing gorge up to a series of stunning waterfalls. In late spring, the forest floor blooms with a vibrant carpet of wild bluebells.

Golspie Beach: A pristine, award-winning three-mile stretch of sandy coastline perfect for walks. It features a small, historic stone pier and harbour jutting out into the sea.

History & Culture

The name Golspie derives from the old Norse for "gully village," showing its deep Viking roots. While it originally began as a quiet fishing hamlet, the village expanded significantly in the early 19th century to house crofters who had been brutally evicted from inland glens during the Highland Clearances. The arrival of the railway in 1868 transformed it into a trendy Victorian resort town. In fact, Queen Victoria herself stayed at Dunrobin Castle for a week in 1872 and famously rode a pony up to the Big Burn waterfall. Over the years, it has even welcomed music royalty—in 1969, John Lennon, Yoko Ono, and their children spent several days recovering at the local Lawson Memorial Hospital after a car accident nearby.

Village Amenities & Leisure

Today, Golspie serves as an important service centre for the wider Sutherland district. It is packed with exceptional facilities for both locals and travelers:

Outdoor Sports: Golspie boasts a scenic 18-hole golf course that blends links and heathland terrain. It also has premium mountain biking trails winding down Ben Bhraggie.

Local Infrastructure: Unlike many remote Highland villages, it features a swimming pool, public library, high school, local hospital, and a fitness centre.

Food & Drink: The town offers an excellent selection of independent shops, cafes like the cozy Coffee Bothy, and one of the Highlands' best fish and chip shops. For a traditional meal, the historic Golspie Inn—a coaching inn dating back over two centuries—serves up classic Scottish dishes like Cullen skink and local single malt whiskies.

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