Portree, Isle of Skye

Some days just seemed wasted. Today was one of those days. After a second disturbed night because of the very strong wind, this morning we got up, dressed, packed up and drove a short distance down the road to Uig village store for hot drinks, and a really awful sausage roll, that contained no meat, but slurry. We know what you're thinking, we thought about it as well. We were near the Fairy Glen, and after vowing we wouldn't start revsiting all the must see spots on Skye, having seen them before, we decided to return here as we'd enjoyed it so much on our first visit.

The sun was out that day, not today, it was grey, rainy and a lot colder than yesterday. It's said, that you should never revisit faces or places, we don't necessarily agree with that, but some occasions like today we did.

The Fairy Glen just didn't seem magical like it did on our first visit. Whilst at the Glen, John climbed up to the high point, Angela couldn't, someone had to take the photograph. A few days ago John commented that if he passed away first Angela would go on to have a 'whale of a time'. As she watched him walk close to the edge of the rock above her, she honestly wasn't thinking about galavanting. Next stop the Quirang, or perhaps not. A road closure meant a detour of an hour and a half. With the wind gusting, blowing clouds laden with rain across the island we decided to visit another time. With sunshine and showers come amazing rainbows, and we've certainly seen many of these in the last few days.

So after yet more driving, stopping at the Bride's Veil Falls for lunch, before moving on past the Old Man of Storr on the Trotternish Ridge and then up to Staffin beach we became very conscious that we needed to find somewhere to hunker down out of tonight's wind.

There was only one place, Portree, so we turned around and retraced our steps, and luckily at Portree there was just one overnight space out of the four available. We don't know what the politics are here in Portree, but for some reason the four original parking spaces which are really too small for motorhomes to park in, and are certainly too close together, no six metre spacing rule for safety here, are all that's available in the large carpark. Why? Portree is the main town on the island, the shops, cafes and restaurants we are sure would welcome more trade from overnight vans. Nearly everywhere on Skye parking had to be paid for, £3.00 minimum for four hours parking at the Fairy Glen this morning, most people require less than an hour. On the internet, pricing here for visitors is referred to 'as the Scottish price'! Because they are so hot on ticketing vehicles in parking areas  here, Angela was worried that Marge would not be considered a campervan in line with the signage, because of her tent style pop up roof, so we asked a parking attendant who said she was a 'grey area'. Charming. After inspecting Marge, he reluctantly agreed on this occasion she could park overnight. Funny she's a campervan when we have to pay at campsites. Some days are not so much fun, and the gusting wind these last few days has been a real spoiler. But let's look at the positives, some beautiful sunshine, stunning views, fantastic rainbows arching through the skies, and tonight an excellent Chinese takeaway from the Fat Panda nearby, oh and a brush with a few sheep earlier.

So tonight, we are not really where we would have liked to have parked up, in a town, very close to our Italian neighbours, (two vans), and adjacent to the recycling bins. Marge deserves better, but the wind is still blowing strong from the south and here in Portree we are sheltered, so beggars can't be choosers. Tomorrow, we will look into our onward travels, unsettled weather is rolling in from the Atlantic, so probably best to start thinking about making tracks. One thing we've learnt today, sometimes it's best not to revisit some places, because time changes environments, people and you.

Unimog Campervan, that would have to be Big Marge!

Uig ferry terminal, Isle of Skye

Angela commented yesterday on how lucky we have been of late with  weather, little rain, and wind. Well done Angela, in the early hours of this morning the rain drove into Marge, the wind gusted to goodness knows what speed, all in all we were a little unnerved. Come daybreak, the rain had ceased, the wind still strong, felt, more comfortable. The sky was a perfect blue, the views towards the cullin mountains were amazing.

The sheep gathered around Marge, doing what sheep do. The spot was just idyllic, and so peaceful. An Australian lady parked nearby, impressed by our set up, who isn't? We posed for photographs with Marge, before catching up on some washing, taking advantage of the wind to dry our clothes. Today, the last day of September, where has the last few months gone? This year we've moved house, spent three weeks in Scotland including a trip to Barra, returned home for five days, driven to the south of Morocco, come home for six weeks and then set off again for Scotland. And guess what, we're already thinking of next year's trips, and of course there will be at least one more this year. Visitors to the isle of Skye noticeably less now, we decided to drive to the main town of Portree, stopping on the way for a refreshment stop at Sligachan by the waterfall.

Our reason for visiting Portree was to walk the circular Scorrybreac trail. Just under two miles it is classed as moderate.

Today is a little more challenging because of the wind. It was muddy after last night's rain, but still passable. The panoramic views across to the island of Raasay and distant mountains were stunning. Walking the uneven ground along the coast is  nothing compared to the steep rocky zig zag climb back up to the road. We've done this walk before, so we knew what to expect. A decent walk deserves a reward, two ice creams please. The strong wind has been unrelenting all day, despite this it has been very warm, so we didn't mind so much. We did however mind a lot when we drove to tonight's overnight spot. Being up high, set back from the cliff edge, with spectacular views, it was a no go for us, we couldn't risk Marge being battered for a second night.

So after some deliberation we dropped down lower to the Uig ferry terminal where we've stayed overnight a couple of times before. The wind is still strong, but easing slightly. The ferry from here goes to and from the outer hebridean islands of Harris and Lewis. We visited them both a few years ago and would like to return, but that trip is for another time. We didn't envy the people boarding tonight's crossing, it would probably be more than a little uncomfortable. Looking at the weather forecast we will probably stay another night or two on Skye. Our flu jabs are booked for October 22nd so we have to be home by then. So Marge lets make the next couple of weeks really count!

Woodland Inkcap, not edible.

Tarskavaig, Isle of Skye

What a beautiful morning this morning, we awoke to a clear bright day. Our overnight spot at the foot of the Torridon red sandstone  mountains had been perfect. Stunning views, peaceful and relaxing. During the night Angela was awoken by a distance roar, as it built she realised it was a wind gust coming down the mountains, fortunately we'd parked Marge into the wind near the trees, the branches help filter the power of the gusts. Today we decided to drive and stay overnight at Strathcarron, an enchanting highlands village, but as always with us, our plans changed. Before that though, there was a drive over to Applecross to negotiate. The road, as always, once again, narrow, steep, winding with spectacular views. At one point, we could see across the water to the Old Man of Storr and the  Quirainn on the Isle of Skye.

We are just loving the scenery here, and wildlife. Spotted  today, some grouse, three golden eagles and an otter. The last time we came to Applecross it was busy, difficult to park, and well, just manic.

Today, just a handful of people, but more importantly a stall selling excellent bacon rolls, that was lunch sorted!

With a full stomach, probably not wise for Angela, we began our drive up the mountain pass road, Bealach na Ba. This dramatic mountain pass climbs to an elevation of 2,054 feet.

Angela wasn't looking forward to it, but once we reached the viewpoint carpark at the top she knew it was all downhill from there and settled into the drive. Once down off the pass, she thought John had driven the pass in the easier direction, when she drove we began at Loch Kishorn in the east, with an 22% gradient. All day the weather has been extraordinary, warm and sunny, with a brisk wind. Deciding to leave the Isle of Mull had been the right decision, since then we've had very little rain and despite a couple of colder nights the weather's been fairly settled. Whilst enjoying a refreshment stop at Strathcarron we decided, as it was only mid afternoon, to drive on to the Isle of Skye. Sadly we don't find this island such an enjoyable place to visit.

Since the bridge was built linking it to the mainland, the floodgates have been opened and the island is suffering from just too many visitors. There are half a dozen attractions which everyone visiting heads to. The Infrastructure just can't cope with the number of visitors, holiday accommodations and campsites are full, and free park ups are very limited. Fortunately, the one we're at tonight is quiet, just us. We've come onto Skye to take a ferry from Armdale to Mallaig so we don't have to drive through Glencoe which is beautiful but stressful, the traffic heavy and fast moving, Marge prefers a more relaxed drive. Before settling down at tonight's spot a walk out to find Chanterelles, this morning John enjoyed a hearty breakfast on yesterday afternoons find, and yes, these little yellow firm and fragrant fungi delivered again this evening.

As we approach October the number of camper vans and motorhomes seems less, so we think we might like to revisit and climb the Quiraing in the north of the island, weather permitting tomorrow. As with all our activities involving height, Angela will be challenged, but she'll give it a go, as they say, one life, live it!