Vatersay, Outer Hebrides (day 2)

After yesterday's uncomfortable sailing stomachs are a little more settled today. Once again another beautiful sunny day in Scotland. The wind during the night was fierce, but this morning all the small tents around us were still in place. Muddy Marge had stood fast. There's no moving her. We decided we would stay here tonight once again, as did the lady next to us. Why wouldn't we? It's so peaceful here, and the views are absolutely stunning. We thought the island of Mull was a little slice of heaven, Vatersey has taken it up a notch. Unlike Mull there a very few birds, and we are missing the sounds of early morning brought to us from the oyster catchers, plovers, seagulls, sheep and that annoying cuckoo! We are however enjoying the whistle of the curlews.

Not really sure how much to wrap up, we walked out down onto bright white sandy beach, a few footprints already marked a path along the shore. John collected some small colourful shells, and sea glass for a future project. After leaving the beach we climbed the hill at the end of the bay passing by some sombre looking cows with their adorable calves. 

One of the cows stared at us with a very judgemental stare. So we passed by quickly. The views from the too of the hill were breathtaking.Vatersay is the southernmost inhabited island in the outer Hebrides.

Up on top of the hill the stunning white-sand beaches and waters more turquoise from above took our breath away. After descending the hill we crossed the sand dunes, stopping at the Annie Jane memorial, erected in memory of the people aboard this ship when it was shipwrecked on the nearby rocks back in 1853.⁸

Back at Marge, more conversation with our neighbour. It's great being part of this type of travelling community. People who love nature, and want to camp at idyllic spots. We all feel comfortable in each other's company. We are happy to ask for help, give advice, suggest and receive recommendations of places to visit.

After lunch another short walk along the road to the Catalina memorial site. In 1944 the plane crashed after flying off course during a night-time navigation exercise. Three of the nine crew were killed. All very sad. Tomorrow we are going to drive the short distance to Barra. A big thank you to the community of Vatersey for providing overnight parking for visiting vans, an excellent cafe, clean toilets and showers.We are excited about exploring Barra, and are hopeful the good weather we've experienced whilst being in Scotland will continue.

Vatersay, Outer Hebrides

There was much to do today. First stop Specsavers in Oban where Leslie, very helpfully managed8 to do a repair on John's glasses, they now have unmatching arms, but are useable. Then the big shop. Muddy Marge is now bursting at the seams.

A calm sailing from Oban took us up along the side of Mull and out into the open sea, and then it became interesting, the vessel riding the waves before crashing back down into churning water. Everyone was quiet, some a little green. Angela managed three forkfuls of a jacket potato with beans and cheese before requiring a sick bag. That was £8.50 well spent! There were lots of cyclists on board who tomorrow will be setting off along the Hebrides way. We spoke a while to a couple with a tandem, their tent is pitched quite close to us tonight. As the ferry berthed at Castlebay we could see from the view Barra was going to be a beautiful island. The lorry drivers thought the crossing calm, so goodness knows what it can be like. We told them we'd come from Mull. ' That's a big island', they said, which made us smile. Going to be an interesting night. After a tight squeeze last night we've put our pop top up, even though the wind is due to increase to 27 mph. Angela feels much better now after eating a few crackers and crisps, and feels tomorrow will be a better day. With a fine weather forecast and lighter winds we have decided we will probably stay here in the allocated parking for vans, by the community hall which has a toilet and showers for a donation of ten pounds another night whilst we walk out to explore the area.

The beaches nearby are stunning, white sand as far as the eye can see, and once again the sea a tropical blue. 

Pulpit Hill car park, Oban, Argyle & Bute.

Angela didn't sleep well last night, it was too quiet. Honestly, there's no pleasing the girl. We have stayed at Lochbuie many times now, and we cannot remember there being so few people here overnight. The wildlife must have noticed as well. There was not a hoot from an owl, a screech from an oystercatcher, or any shuffling from the sheep as they grazed nearby. Even the waters of the loch were still. By dawn it was situation normal. The oystercatchers noisy, argumentative and busy. The drone of bumble bees as they searched holes and hollows. And the reliable alarm call of the cuckoos rang around the mountains. The sun was up, and the day already warm. The weather on Mull has been amazing whilst we've been here. The area benefits from localised microclimates. So lucky us. John was out of sorts yesterday evening, retiring to bed by eight thirty. So we decided to stay put at Lochbuie and plan where we wanted to travel to next. We decided it would be the outer Hebrides and that we would take a ferry from Oban to Castlebay. So Angela booked a return ferry to Oban for tomorrow lunchtime, and then realised the only available sailing to Barra in the next few days was tomorrow lunchtime, so we telephoned Calmac ferries and rebooked on the seven twenty five ferry back to Oban this evening. And then a text message came in from Calmac saying tomorrow's ferry was now delayed by two hours. You couldn't make it up.

Anyhow, we're back in Oban now, staying the night on top of Pulpit Hill.

There's us, a French and German van, and a girl sleeping in her car. We decided not to put our pop top up, and for the second time are going to sleep downstairs which will be cosy. It is also a practice for our first night on Barra, where the winds are forecast to be 27 mph. Could be interesting. So in preparation for our trip out to the islands of the outer Hebrides, Barra, The Uists, Harris and Lewis, we will do a big shop in Aldi. It's difficult to buy fresh fruit and vegetables on the islands, and in the past we've visited small community shops and all they've had to offer is lager, cakes and sweets. To some this might seem a balanced diet. So stay with us, whilst we take Muddy Marge through her paces through these beautiful islands with their white sand beaches and rugged landscapes.

Before we left Lochbuie we had a walk out onto a nearby island which can be reached at low tide, Angela discovered a Greylag goose nest just before she stepped on it!

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

We've now been away two weeks, and still the sun shines, but with it today and strong cold northerly wind, ideal for drying washing, so we took the opportunity. After being forced to change spots yesterday evening, John went to the reception to complain and ask if we could have a free night tonight as compensation. We were told we'd have to wait until four o'clock clock to hear. So we walked over to Knockvologan Beach.

We've visited here before and remember being blown away by the white sands, turquoise blue water, grassy hills and rocks to climb. It's a little piece of paradise. There was just us, a couple with a baby and a couple walking their dog. Unlike our last visit when we sat high on the hill admiring the view, today we hunkered down out of the strong wind which blew in our faces. But we didn't mind, the sun was out and the views absolutely stunning. The tide was falling so we walked back across the sands to the campsite. John seeing no need for walking boots had to result in removing his socks and sandals to navigated the last of the tidal water.

Back at Fidden Farm we were told there'd be no compensation for us regarding our inconsiderate neighbours from the previous evening. The campsites information leaflet clearly states vehicles must not park too close together, and that consideration should be given to others. Obviously these rules aren't implemented. Feeling let down, we packed up and decided to drive back over to Lochbuie. Thankfully it was quiet, just six other people here. The cold wind we'd experienced today now gone, the evening was pleasant. The scattered colours from the fading sun lit the headland. Stunning.

Angela took lots of photographs. We don't know if we'll return to the island of Mull on this trip and she just wanted to capture as many memories as possible.

Fidden Farm Campsite, Ffionofort, Isle of Mull (Day 2)

John survived his practice night in his little tent.

Angela survived the night luxuriating in Muddy Marge's large bed. The wind through the night was a little keen, but the new day dawned bright. Despite the chill in the air, we felt blessed to wake up in such a beautiful location. We also felt very lucky to be having continuous fairly good weather. Yes there's been a little rain, but nothing really to speak of. Today we were excited, it felt like a bucket list day.

We were going to visit the island of Staffa, see inside Fingal's cave and the puffins that return to the island in April to breed. As the boat moved slowly along the sound of Iona the crew steered the boat in amongst the rocks so we could see the seals basking on the rocks.

Then out into the open sea and, 'a bit of a swell'. But we didn't mind. John doesn't suffer with motion sickness, and Angela has taken a travel pill.

As the island of Staffa loomed large we couldn't believe we were actually there. The boat tied up alongside the little jetty and we made sure we were the first to disembark so that we'd be first down at Fingal's cave in order to be able to take some good photographs. Although a handrail has been put in place we still had to take care as we negotiated the basalt paving below our feet.

Staffa is a volcanic island made up of towering hexagonal basalt columns. It was spectacular. Angela didn't enter the cave because there was no handrail on the drop side, but John did.

Here we were in the middle of the deep blue sea, six miles from the island of Mull. It seemed unreal. And just when our visit couldn't become more exciting it did.

The puffins have recently returned to nest, and oh boy did they come out to play, providing us with fantastic photography. We had been first of the boat, and we're last to return, sad to be leaving the puffins, funny little fellas in black dinner jackets and white bibs. As Staffa faded into the distance we were once more in the swell. The boat swung from side to side unnerving some of the passengers, but not us. What a fantastic day it has been. Sadly it didn't end well.

Back at the campsite three vans had almost blocked us in. So much for six metres between us all. We were furious! Obviously we had to move. Now Muddy Marge is over in the overflow area of the campsite. It seems quiet so far, and we are literally right above the beach.

Today's visit to Staffa has made us hungry for more adventures. Life is meant to be lived, and we intent to do just that!