Vatersay, Outer Hebrides (day 4)

This morning John was out of sorts, so Angela wrapped up and walked out along the beach and around the headland at the end of the beach that faces north. As clouds rolled across the normally stunning turquoise waters turned dark and moody.

The wind a little stronger again today made for difficult walking, but she persisted. The tiny yellow primroses that covered the hills here clung on, shaking in the wind. On the return to Marge she crossed the road and walked back via the beach that is more sheltered. Here the sand on the shore washed clean from the tide, smooth and inviting to walk along. But once again care must be taken for it is very soft. Angela loves this beach, especially the way the wind has sculptured the sand dunes.

Today being Sunday there has been hardly anyone around. The cafe is closed and the cold wind is keeping people away, so for most of the day it's been just us and a lone cyclist who arrived yesterday. His friend is due to arrive on this evenings six o'clock ferry from Oban having missed yesterday's as his train connection in Glasgow was delayed. We have a feeling he will have wished he hadn't missed that sailing yesterday, the wind today will make for a rough crossing. The wind had it's uses though. It pushed the dark clouds up over the mountains towards Castlebay which meant we only experienced a few brief light showers. This afternoon another walk out for Angela up onto one of the other headlands.

This one a little more difficult, requiring a little scrambling. All good practice for our West Highland Way walk. This evening the sun is shining, lighting the small cruise boat that is sheltering in the bay. We don't envy the people on it, riding the waves in today's wind. So tonight we will batten down the hatches. We feel Marge may be rockin' and rolling a little. 

Vatersay, Outer Hebrides (day 3)

Yet another blue sky morning. The wind cool, but still perfect conditions to do a wash. Today was also the day to try out the showers here. One pound gives you two minutes under a shower that takes thirty seconds for the water to warm. If you think two minutes isn't enough time to take a shower, throw this into the mix. You insert the pound coin into a slot around the corner from the shower and the water starts to flow. Miraculously Angela managed to undress and shower in the two minutes. So a lazy morning, whiling away the time sorting out in Marge and chatting with Heather our neighbour who'd decided today after her walk, and a last cup of tea with us, to pack up and move a little way along the coast to a campsite.

 After lunch we spoke to a man who unloaded a beautifully crafted coracle he'd built from his campervan, not something we expected to see on this trip, before setting off to a free spot a little further up on Barra.

Settling Marge we walked out onto the beach, a little concerned about a sign alerting us to quicksand.

Keeping to the edge we soon discovered an abundance of sea glass which we begin to gather for John's project. After the beautiful park up of the last two nights this new place wasn't doing it for us, so we decided to drive around the island checking out the other areas.

It was lovely driving the islands roads, quiet, late in the day with the sun warming us through the windscreen.

At Barra airport we stopped a while to look at the vast beach runway where two flights arrive from Glasgow each day. Time now getting on, we decided to return to Vatersey where we've spent the last two nights. It really is the only place to stay, with the stunning views and excellent facilities. Not to be beaten. Angela's up for another two minutes shower dash!

Vatersay, Outer Hebrides (day 2)

After yesterday's uncomfortable sailing stomachs are a little more settled today. Once again another beautiful sunny day in Scotland. The wind during the night was fierce, but this morning all the small tents around us were still in place. Muddy Marge had stood fast. There's no moving her. We decided we would stay here tonight once again, as did the lady next to us. Why wouldn't we? It's so peaceful here, and the views are absolutely stunning. We thought the island of Mull was a little slice of heaven, Vatersey has taken it up a notch. Unlike Mull there a very few birds, and we are missing the sounds of early morning brought to us from the oyster catchers, plovers, seagulls, sheep and that annoying cuckoo! We are however enjoying the whistle of the curlews.

Not really sure how much to wrap up, we walked out down onto bright white sandy beach, a few footprints already marked a path along the shore. John collected some small colourful shells, and sea glass for a future project. After leaving the beach we climbed the hill at the end of the bay passing by some sombre looking cows with their adorable calves. 

One of the cows stared at us with a very judgemental stare. So we passed by quickly. The views from the too of the hill were breathtaking.Vatersay is the southernmost inhabited island in the outer Hebrides.

Up on top of the hill the stunning white-sand beaches and waters more turquoise from above took our breath away. After descending the hill we crossed the sand dunes, stopping at the Annie Jane memorial, erected in memory of the people aboard this ship when it was shipwrecked on the nearby rocks back in 1853.⁸

Back at Marge, more conversation with our neighbour. It's great being part of this type of travelling community. People who love nature, and want to camp at idyllic spots. We all feel comfortable in each other's company. We are happy to ask for help, give advice, suggest and receive recommendations of places to visit.

After lunch another short walk along the road to the Catalina memorial site. In 1944 the plane crashed after flying off course during a night-time navigation exercise. Three of the nine crew were killed. All very sad. Tomorrow we are going to drive the short distance to Barra. A big thank you to the community of Vatersey for providing overnight parking for visiting vans, an excellent cafe, clean toilets and showers.We are excited about exploring Barra, and are hopeful the good weather we've experienced whilst being in Scotland will continue.

Vatersay, Outer Hebrides

There was much to do today. First stop Specsavers in Oban where Leslie, very helpfully managed8 to do a repair on John's glasses, they now have unmatching arms, but are useable. Then the big shop. Muddy Marge is now bursting at the seams.

A calm sailing from Oban took us up along the side of Mull and out into the open sea, and then it became interesting, the vessel riding the waves before crashing back down into churning water. Everyone was quiet, some a little green. Angela managed three forkfuls of a jacket potato with beans and cheese before requiring a sick bag. That was £8.50 well spent! There were lots of cyclists on board who tomorrow will be setting off along the Hebrides way. We spoke a while to a couple with a tandem, their tent is pitched quite close to us tonight. As the ferry berthed at Castlebay we could see from the view Barra was going to be a beautiful island. The lorry drivers thought the crossing calm, so goodness knows what it can be like. We told them we'd come from Mull. ' That's a big island', they said, which made us smile. Going to be an interesting night. After a tight squeeze last night we've put our pop top up, even though the wind is due to increase to 27 mph. Angela feels much better now after eating a few crackers and crisps, and feels tomorrow will be a better day. With a fine weather forecast and lighter winds we have decided we will probably stay here in the allocated parking for vans, by the community hall which has a toilet and showers for a donation of ten pounds another night whilst we walk out to explore the area.

The beaches nearby are stunning, white sand as far as the eye can see, and once again the sea a tropical blue.