Bonar Bridge, Kyle of Sutherland

It is said, a, watched kettle that never boils, dolphins that don't turn up when expected, disappointing.

This morning however, a wet walk through the fairy glen in Rosemarkie ended with a visit to the Crofters Cafe on the seafront, where amazingly we saw two dolphins pass nonchalantly by!

Everything comes to those who wait! Refreshed by our refreshments, the persistent drizzle dampening the day, and our spirits, we set off to somewhere north. Realising, we didn't really know where, we thought it might be a good idea to pull into a layby, make some lunch, and a loose plan. In this area at a place called Skelbo, where we've stayed twice before, a large colony of seals can be seen at low tide on the sand flats. Sadly, you can no longer stay in the parking area overnight, but we would like to drive there tomorrow to watch the seals a while before moving on a little further.

We hope the weather stays onside, despite being colder, it is more settled now. So tomorrow Skelbo, then over to Stac Pollaidh, weather permitting, and then back across to the west coast to Ullapool for some of the best fish and chips in Scotland, after Tobermory of course.  Today, a slogan on the back of a van reads, 'Those who wander are not lost'. We certainly wander, and we're definitely not lost, we're at Bonar Bridge!

What the internet says about Bonar Bridge 

Bonar Bridge is a picturesque village in the Scottish Highlands, situated on the north bank of the Kyle of Sutherland. Originally a critical point for driving cattle across the tidal waters, the settlement was simply known as "Bonar" until its namesake engineering marvel connected the banks in 1812. Today, it serves as a tranquil, scenic base for exploring Sutherland and the wider Highlands.

The Three Bridges

The village is defined by the history of its river crossings, tracked by a monument cairn at the edge of the water: 

The Telford Bridge (1812–1892): Engineered by the legendary Thomas Telford, this innovative cast-iron arch bridge cost under £10,000. It stood for 80 years before being violently swept away during the historic North of Scotland floods on 29 January 1892—an event allegedly predicted by the local mythic figure, the Brahan Seer. 

The Arrol Bridge (1893–1973): Rebuilt using a three-span iron girder design by Sir William Arrol, the engineer famous for the Forth Bridge. 

The Modern Bridge (1973–Present): The current steel bowstring arch structure offers panoramic views over the firth and accommodates modern vehicle and pedestrian traffic. 

Geography & Atmosphere

Bonar Bridge sits right where the Dornoch Firth narrows into the Kyle of Sutherland. Four salmon-rich rivers—the Oykel, Cassley, Shin, and Carron—all feed into the estuary right above the village. 

For generations, the village was a bustling hub on the main A9 artery heading up to Caithness. However, since the opening of the Dornoch Firth Bridge bypassed the loop in 1991, it has transformed into a peaceful, relaxing haven surrounded by steep, wooded slopes. 

Local History & Surrounding Lore

The immediate area holds incredible, sometimes dark historical significance: 

Carbisdale Castle: Visible just up the road, this striking Edwardian castle was built out of pure spite. Following a bitter family feud, the Dowager Duchess of Sutherland built it just outside family lands, deliberately leaving the castle clock tower blank on the side facing the Sutherland estate to "never give them the time of day". 

The Highland Clearances: Nearby Croick Church stands as a solemn monument to the 1840s evictions. Displaced families took refuge in the churchyard and scratched desperate, heartbreaking messages into the glass windowpanes, which are still visible today. 

Battle of Carbisdale (1650): The final battle of the Royalist general, the Marquess of Montrose, was fought nearby. He was defeated, disguised himself as a peasant to escape across the Kyle, but was quickly betrayed and executed.

Things to Do

Outdoor Activities: The calm waters are highly popular for canoeing and paddleboarding, while the surrounding trails are excellent for walking circuits and cycling.

Wildlife Spotting: Look out for red deer, pine martens, and rare Scottish wildcats in the dense local woods.

Falls of Shin: Located just a few miles north, this is one of the premier spots in Scotland to watch wild salmon leaping upstream between June and September.

Golf: The village features its own scenic 9-hole golf course. 

Fortrose Bay Campsite, Fortrose

We slept well last night at the little parking area by castle Roy, adjacent to Abernethy Old Kirk and grave yard, with its immaculate grounds. And to top it, little wind, and a very short light rain shower overnight.

This morning, the sun was up and ready to welcome us to a new day. We were so glad we'd decided to venture to the eastern side of Scotland. Today Fortrose, Angela booked a pitch on the campsite there last night, something we don't usually do, as it turned out, it was the right thing to do, the site was fully booked when we arrived. But before Fortrose, a stop at Carrbridge to see the oldest stone bridge in the Highlands.

The famous packhorse bridge spans the river Dulnain right in the centre of the village. It was built so coffins could be carried to the church on the far side. For us, the bridge and the view through it was one of the prettiest sights we've seen in Scotland. But we could not linger, an Aldi store on the outskirts of Inverness was calling us.

This afternoon, with Marge all settled at the campsite that overlooks Fortrose bay, we set to with doing a wash. No hand washing in a bucket today for Angela. After two and a half weeks on the road she got to use a washing machine, and tumble dryer. Bliss. Our reason for returning here to Fortrose was to see the dolphins arriving on the evening tide. Sadly this evening, after spending more than two hours waiting on the shore in a biting wind, they did not materialise.

 Oh well, that's just how it goes with wildlife. Fortunately, we did see them when we visited here three years ago, and in Tobermory harbour a few days ago. With a few more weeks until we need to return home, we have no need to rush. Hopefully the weather will now settle, and we'll be able to walk out more, beginning tomorrow with the fairy glen walk at nearby Rosemarkie.