Bonar Bridge, Kyle of Sutherland

It is said, a, watched kettle that never boils, dolphins that don't turn up when expected, disappointing.

This morning however, a wet walk through the fairy glen in Rosemarkie ended with a visit to the Crofters Cafe on the seafront, where amazingly we saw two dolphins pass nonchalantly by!

Everything comes to those who wait! Refreshed by our refreshments, the persistent drizzle dampening the day, and our spirits, we set off to somewhere north. Realising, we didn't really know where, we thought it might be a good idea to pull into a layby, make some lunch, and a loose plan. In this area at a place called Skelbo, where we've stayed twice before, a large colony of seals can be seen at low tide on the sand flats. Sadly, you can no longer stay in the parking area overnight, but we would like to drive there tomorrow to watch the seals a while before moving on a little further.

We hope the weather stays onside, despite being colder, it is more settled now. So tomorrow Skelbo, then over to Stac Pollaidh, weather permitting, and then back across to the west coast to Ullapool for some of the best fish and chips in Scotland, after Tobermory of course.  Today, a slogan on the back of a van reads, 'Those who wander are not lost'. We certainly wander, and we're definitely not lost, we're at Bonar Bridge!

What the internet says about Bonar Bridge 

Bonar Bridge is a picturesque village in the Scottish Highlands, situated on the north bank of the Kyle of Sutherland. Originally a critical point for driving cattle across the tidal waters, the settlement was simply known as "Bonar" until its namesake engineering marvel connected the banks in 1812. Today, it serves as a tranquil, scenic base for exploring Sutherland and the wider Highlands.

The Three Bridges

The village is defined by the history of its river crossings, tracked by a monument cairn at the edge of the water: 

The Telford Bridge (1812–1892): Engineered by the legendary Thomas Telford, this innovative cast-iron arch bridge cost under £10,000. It stood for 80 years before being violently swept away during the historic North of Scotland floods on 29 January 1892—an event allegedly predicted by the local mythic figure, the Brahan Seer. 

The Arrol Bridge (1893–1973): Rebuilt using a three-span iron girder design by Sir William Arrol, the engineer famous for the Forth Bridge. 

The Modern Bridge (1973–Present): The current steel bowstring arch structure offers panoramic views over the firth and accommodates modern vehicle and pedestrian traffic. 

Geography & Atmosphere

Bonar Bridge sits right where the Dornoch Firth narrows into the Kyle of Sutherland. Four salmon-rich rivers—the Oykel, Cassley, Shin, and Carron—all feed into the estuary right above the village. 

For generations, the village was a bustling hub on the main A9 artery heading up to Caithness. However, since the opening of the Dornoch Firth Bridge bypassed the loop in 1991, it has transformed into a peaceful, relaxing haven surrounded by steep, wooded slopes. 

Local History & Surrounding Lore

The immediate area holds incredible, sometimes dark historical significance: 

Carbisdale Castle: Visible just up the road, this striking Edwardian castle was built out of pure spite. Following a bitter family feud, the Dowager Duchess of Sutherland built it just outside family lands, deliberately leaving the castle clock tower blank on the side facing the Sutherland estate to "never give them the time of day". 

The Highland Clearances: Nearby Croick Church stands as a solemn monument to the 1840s evictions. Displaced families took refuge in the churchyard and scratched desperate, heartbreaking messages into the glass windowpanes, which are still visible today. 

Battle of Carbisdale (1650): The final battle of the Royalist general, the Marquess of Montrose, was fought nearby. He was defeated, disguised himself as a peasant to escape across the Kyle, but was quickly betrayed and executed.

Things to Do

Outdoor Activities: The calm waters are highly popular for canoeing and paddleboarding, while the surrounding trails are excellent for walking circuits and cycling.

Wildlife Spotting: Look out for red deer, pine martens, and rare Scottish wildcats in the dense local woods.

Falls of Shin: Located just a few miles north, this is one of the premier spots in Scotland to watch wild salmon leaping upstream between June and September.

Golf: The village features its own scenic 9-hole golf course. 

Red Squirrel Campsite, Ballachulish

Muddy Marge, a compact camper with a loo, that's the best description of our new camper. We've been fortunate to be able to take all our meals outside so far, but realize we need to be more organized should we not be able to so.

After last night's storm, the new day dawned dry and warm. We purchased cray fish and cheese and pickle rolls along with a salmon roll (salmon in a thin rolled pastry...delicious) from the Loch Fyne deli and set off. Our drive alongside the Loch was beautiful. The waters calm, the mountains in the background tinged blue by the cloud hovering above them. The blue purple from thousands of bluebells along the verges were mesmerizing, Scotland in springtime, beautiful.

An impromptu stop in the village of Loch awe at St. Conan's Kirk broke our journey to Oban.

The magical Loch side setting was beautiful, the other visitors entertaining. There were French motorhomes everywhere. Large French motorhomes , 7.5 metres plus. Parking was limited, so you can imagine the chaos. And as in France, the wives stand behind them when their husbands are reversing! 

Oban, as always was noisy and chaotic. The reason for our visit was to purchase a drone from Argos. Hopefully it will add exciting and fascinating footage to our blog.

This evening we are spending the night on a lovely campsite just outside Glencoe. The woodsmoke from the open fires we're allowed is playing havoc with Angela's chest, but despite this we cooked our meal on an open fire. The rain is once again upon us, but we are lucky to be able to sit out and enjoy the evening.

The plan for tomorrow is to take the ferry over to the island of Mull where we will stay for a few days. After three days of driving, we're really looking forward to slowing things down.

Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, Clachan

Despite being a beautiful evening last night we missed the northern lights, the cloud covered the late sky, and at 2 am we were in bed when the chance of seeing them occurred.

So this morning we were tired. Angela doesn't feel well. She's been suffering for a few days thinking it was just bad hay fever, but it's not. Upper respiratory, exactly what she suffered from in France early last year. With hardly any voice to help John,  navigating the awful road layouts of Glasgow was a challenge. 

We thought we had packed everything we needed but alas no. Yesterday we realised we'd forgotten our buoyancy aids, so had to divert to Decathlon on the edge of Glasgow. No buoyancy aids, no pack rafting, it's a risk we wouldn't take.

Leaving the chaos and noise of Glasgow behind we took to the mountains where we were rewarded with beautiful views and stunning landscape. Stopping at the top of the old military road at a viewpoint named 'The Rest and be Thankful', Muddy Marge took the limelight. Photograph her as much as you like. Yesterday at Stafford services a young man referred to her as a 'cool truck'. We are starting to realise she's a real attention grabber.

This evening we feel we are in the ' real Scotland', staying once again outside Loch Fyne Oysters adjacent to the loch. Upon our arrival the thunderstorm due all afternoon arrived obscuring all the surrounding scenery in it's anger. Fortunately within an hour the nearby mountains reappeared, now with foaming waters spewing and tumbling down them.

Even some Wild Garlic to go into John's breakfast omelette!

We are the only camper here, and don't mind. Just us and our Boxio compost loo which has now been christened. No taking it back to the shop now 😂