Bonar Bridge, Kyle of Sutherland

It is said, a, watched kettle that never boils, dolphins that don't turn up when expected, disappointing.

This morning however, a wet walk through the fairy glen in Rosemarkie ended with a visit to the Crofters Cafe on the seafront, where amazingly we saw two dolphins pass nonchalantly by!

Everything comes to those who wait! Refreshed by our refreshments, the persistent drizzle dampening the day, and our spirits, we set off to somewhere north. Realising, we didn't really know where, we thought it might be a good idea to pull into a layby, make some lunch, and a loose plan. In this area at a place called Skelbo, where we've stayed twice before, a large colony of seals can be seen at low tide on the sand flats. Sadly, you can no longer stay in the parking area overnight, but we would like to drive there tomorrow to watch the seals a while before moving on a little further.

We hope the weather stays onside, despite being colder, it is more settled now. So tomorrow Skelbo, then over to Stac Pollaidh, weather permitting, and then back across to the west coast to Ullapool for some of the best fish and chips in Scotland, after Tobermory of course.  Today, a slogan on the back of a van reads, 'Those who wander are not lost'. We certainly wander, and we're definitely not lost, we're at Bonar Bridge!

What the internet says about Bonar Bridge 

Bonar Bridge is a picturesque village in the Scottish Highlands, situated on the north bank of the Kyle of Sutherland. Originally a critical point for driving cattle across the tidal waters, the settlement was simply known as "Bonar" until its namesake engineering marvel connected the banks in 1812. Today, it serves as a tranquil, scenic base for exploring Sutherland and the wider Highlands.

The Three Bridges

The village is defined by the history of its river crossings, tracked by a monument cairn at the edge of the water: 

The Telford Bridge (1812–1892): Engineered by the legendary Thomas Telford, this innovative cast-iron arch bridge cost under £10,000. It stood for 80 years before being violently swept away during the historic North of Scotland floods on 29 January 1892—an event allegedly predicted by the local mythic figure, the Brahan Seer. 

The Arrol Bridge (1893–1973): Rebuilt using a three-span iron girder design by Sir William Arrol, the engineer famous for the Forth Bridge. 

The Modern Bridge (1973–Present): The current steel bowstring arch structure offers panoramic views over the firth and accommodates modern vehicle and pedestrian traffic. 

Geography & Atmosphere

Bonar Bridge sits right where the Dornoch Firth narrows into the Kyle of Sutherland. Four salmon-rich rivers—the Oykel, Cassley, Shin, and Carron—all feed into the estuary right above the village. 

For generations, the village was a bustling hub on the main A9 artery heading up to Caithness. However, since the opening of the Dornoch Firth Bridge bypassed the loop in 1991, it has transformed into a peaceful, relaxing haven surrounded by steep, wooded slopes. 

Local History & Surrounding Lore

The immediate area holds incredible, sometimes dark historical significance: 

Carbisdale Castle: Visible just up the road, this striking Edwardian castle was built out of pure spite. Following a bitter family feud, the Dowager Duchess of Sutherland built it just outside family lands, deliberately leaving the castle clock tower blank on the side facing the Sutherland estate to "never give them the time of day". 

The Highland Clearances: Nearby Croick Church stands as a solemn monument to the 1840s evictions. Displaced families took refuge in the churchyard and scratched desperate, heartbreaking messages into the glass windowpanes, which are still visible today. 

Battle of Carbisdale (1650): The final battle of the Royalist general, the Marquess of Montrose, was fought nearby. He was defeated, disguised himself as a peasant to escape across the Kyle, but was quickly betrayed and executed.

Things to Do

Outdoor Activities: The calm waters are highly popular for canoeing and paddleboarding, while the surrounding trails are excellent for walking circuits and cycling.

Wildlife Spotting: Look out for red deer, pine martens, and rare Scottish wildcats in the dense local woods.

Falls of Shin: Located just a few miles north, this is one of the premier spots in Scotland to watch wild salmon leaping upstream between June and September.

Golf: The village features its own scenic 9-hole golf course. 

Pickering Arms, Thelwall

Muddy Marge's 'Return to the Highlands' has begun. Packed to the gunnels this trip because of our backpacks, tent and all those things you need whilst going on a hike. As usual, an overnight stop at The Pickering Arms, Thelwall where we spent a pleasant afternoon chatting to some locals before enjoying a meal with John's daughter and her husband. Tomorrow we will cross the border into Scotland and Marge will officially begin her Highland fling.

Pickering Arms, Thelwall, Warrington

Pack your kilt Muddy Marge. No not the one that's like a pelmet, something more respectable please. We don't want to be shocking the Scots.

The past nine months have been so busy for us. Three rental houses to make good, and a house move from Poole to Oxfordshire. We are whacked, both physically & mentally, but the thought of this Scottish road trip has powered us through. 

A later start than expected, we decided to head to Thelwall, just off the M6 to The Pickering Arms, a charming pub where we overnighted enroute to Scotland in Marge II three years ago. As always when heading north, a stop at Stafford services to break the journey where we were surprised to see a RAF helicopter in mid transportation. Since our last visit to The Pickering Arms, ownership has changed.

We enjoyed a delicious meal whilst being entertained by two women dining opposite. 'Those, black bins. What are they all about?' Then straight into a conversation about truffles. Angela loves these characters.

A few more characters in the form of comic tiles from the 1970's in the gents loo!

Tomorrow we will cross into Scotland. And we can't wait!

The Cottage Loaf, Thurstaston, Wirral

Today is December 27th. Although the Christmas holiday runs into the weekend this year many people like ourselves were back on the road. Mindful of the possibility of heavy slow moving traffic ahead we left Thame by mid morning. Not far into our journey traffic slowed as we approached the exit for Bicester village outlet shopping area. From then on the traffic moved, albeit steadily. Mindful of possible traffic delays on the M6 we decided to cut across country at Birmingham.

Our destination The Cottage Loaf public house at Thurstaston on the Wirral. Near to the Wirral country park this characterful pub is popular, especially with camper vans and motorhomes as overnight stay is allowed in the large flat car park for ten pounds a night, or free if eating in the pub. John's daughter lives around twenty minutes away so we arranged to meet her and her husband for a meal and a catch up. A Saturday on Christmas weekend, we expected the pub to be busy, but it was not. So our family time was relaxed and unhurried as well as enjoyable. Four other vans kept Margery company. As followers of our blog may remember, we always like to take a little holiday over the new year. This year we have booked an Airbnb on Anglesey, North Wales. We are around two hours drive away so no need to rush off early on the morning.

Setthorns Campsite, New Forest

Well here we are again Margery. Setthorns is the only new forest campsite open now. It's back to basics here though. No toilets or showers, so you can't book on to the site unless you have your own loo. Our reason for being here is not that we're some sort of crazy people who would rather sleep in a van in the woods as temperatures plummet, but because today is the day a kilo, or thereabouts, of new forest venison is purchased from a local butcher. Christmas may have begun in retail, but to us it doesn't begin until the venison is bought. Last night was very cold. Tonight slightly warmer. But we should be all cosy in Margery. Chilli con carne for dinner. Ginger wine, another Christmas tradition for Angela, and new teddy bear bedding should keep us well snuggly. This afternoon John discovered some large hedgehog mushrooms.

The carpeting of the surrounding ground by the large brown fallen leaves of the sweet chestnut trees makes it difficult to spot the mushrooms. We know they are out there somewhere. A week ago we were in Turkey wearing shorts and t-shirts. Today warm coats and hats. That aside, for us being away somewhere makes us happy. 

Footnote: The teddy bear bedding was a success, we were well warm.

Poole, Dorset

We couldn't go home without stopping for another walk out and more coffee and cake. So we took the short drive from our campsite down the coast to Hengisbury Head.

Autumn has well and truly established itself now, and as we walked among the trees the leaves of fiery orange, reds and purple looked beautiful. Sadly though our walk over, it was time to return home. Time to plan another holiday we think!