Orcaber Farm Camping,Austwick,North Yorks

We had to make today count, it would be our last in the beautiful Yorkshire Dales this trip. With waterfalls to see, and the weather forecast this afternoon, showers we were away this morning in good time. The parking cost at the falls was a little steep, so we paid for two hours in the hope we'd be able to walk to both falls in that time. Catrigg force was at the top of a steep climb. Thankful we were only carrying day packs.

We slowly ascended the rutted path, stopping to look back on the stunning views across the dales. The green rolling hills peppered with grey granite stone walls and villages ran away from us. It was like looking at a vast model village.

 After negotiating the rugged path down to Catrigg Force we had to then retrace our steps back to Stainworth village where another path took us to Stainworth Foss.

Crossing a very narrow stone bridge barely wide enough for a very small car we happened upon the falls. The noise from the powerful fast moving water as it danced over the rocks was deafening.

Angela saw a salmon leap. Yes she did! Her first time ever. Like a small child she couldn't contain her delight. Then, John saw a salmon leap. This was turning out to be quite a morning. The rest of the afternoon was taken up with sorting out our onward journey. We are buying a thermal wrap around cover for Margery's pop top from Facebook market place, and we all know how complicated that is!

The cover will mean we'll be able to go away during the winter months for a night or two, probably to the New Forest which is less than an hour away from our house. This evening we're back at Orcaber Farm Camping just outside Settle. We've stayed here twice before, but never on a weekend. It is quite busy, and we're surprised at just how many families are here. Opposite us a family provided entertainment erecting their brand new, very large tent. They've never been camping before. Mum and the children are well into it not sure about dad and the dog.

Orcaber Farm Camping, Austwick, North Yorks

 

What a wonderful spot last night. Awaking at Semer Water this morning, the lake like glass framed on three sides by the the rolling green hills. Beautiful. Keen not to be too late leaving, we were packed up and on our way by just after nine-thirty. We had waterfalls to visit. First Hardraw Force. England's largest single drop waterfall at a hundred feet.

The waterfall is famed for being the spot in the film Robin Hood Prince of Thieves, when Maid Marian spotted Robin Hood, played by Kevin Costner, bathing under the waterfall. Hence a £4.00 entry fee (cash only) to the site! On our way to the waterfall we encountered a group of off roaders driving Pinzgauers, 4-wheeled, and six-wheeled utility vehicles.

We pulled over to photograph them. The man driving the last vehicle pulled over to chat, informing us that all the vehicles had VW engines. They do like to engage you in conversation here in Yorkshire. The Aysgarth falls were our second waterfall visit. The series of cascading falls amongst woodland make for a pleasant walk.

We sat by the falls to lunch, their steady sound calming. But overhead the skies darkened and by the time we arrived back at Margery large raindrops spotted the ground. Tomorrow we are visiting Malham Cove, and conscious we need to arrive early to secure a parking space, we decided to drive back across the dales to the Orcaber Farm campsite where we stayed on Friday night. Staying here, meant we would be around 45 minutes away from Malham. Having already driven this route we know how challenging the drive is. Angela isn't looking forward to it. But needs must. What worries her more is we're running low on cash. Along the way,  we've paid cash in the bakers, at the ice cream van, in the car parks, some cafes and today's waterfall visit. Don't tell Rachel from accounts!

Semer Water, Countersett, North Yorkshire

Oh what a night! The VW squeezed in next to us was so close we could hear the man snoring! At daybreak we were awoken by voices, our neighbours and many other people, who'd arrived early by car were setting off on the three peaks challenge. 'Some of us are trying to sleep, if you could keep your voices down!'. Despite our early morning alarm call we were in no rush to leave. The views from Margery were stunning, and observing the throngs of walkers kept us entertained. But leave we must Margery. We have many more areas of 'God's own country' to explore.

As we left the station inn, outside Morris men and women entertained, their colourful enthusiasm mesmerised the watching crowd. We'd decided to head over to Semer Water, a thirty minute drive away along long undulating roads that swept across the dales.

Passing through Hawes, a pretty town of independent shops and eateries we decided to stop. Needing a few provisions we bought soft fruits, vegetarian sausage rolls and samosas, fish fingers and salad for our evening meal and carrot cake. Delicious.

The overnight stop at Semer Water is on the edge of a stunning lake with beautiful views. The land is privately owned by a farmer, described on trip advisor as making Basil Fawlty seem nice. The more Angela read about him, the more she wanted to meet him. The reviews were correct. What a miserable old sod! After a while of conversing with him he seemed to mellow, but only for a minute. His pricing structure was interesting. We paid £1.80 for two hours parking, then £9.00 to stay overnight on the foreshore. Bargain! Not perhaps though, for the people with kayaks. They had to pay extra according to the number of seats in their kayak. All a bit random. There are quite a few vans here tonight. Everyone is very friendly, it feels like a little community. And as expected the farmers wife came around to check we'd all paid. According to reviews, she was worse than her husband to deal with, but she seemed pleasant enough to us.

Everyone agreed the spot was amazing and peaceful, except of course the youngsters who arrived at eight thirty, parking up near the road with their engines running and loud music playing. There's seems to be no escaping these morons. Where's a farmer with his shotgun when you need him? Basil Fawlty wouldn't have stood for their intrusion.

Oh, and the fish fingers baps were delicious....

Ribblehead Viaduct, Ribble Valley, North Yorks.

We awoke to a beautiful morning. The sun lit a magical scene. Rolling countryside of lush green fields criss crossed by irregular dry grey limestone walls. We could see for miles, until the landscape slipped away into the distance. We'd enjoyed our time at Orcaber farm, and when a shower passed overhead the rain that fell didn't dampen our spirits. We felt free and settled. Travelling makes you feel like that. Midday arrived and we set off to our next stop less than half an hour down the road to Ribblehead viaduct, which carries the Settle to Carlisle railway across Batty Moss.

It is 400 metres long and 32 metres high, with 24 arches. After lunch we took the circular walk that passed under the arches over the heathland past farms and ruins of the homes used by the workers to build the impressive viaduct back in the mid 19th century. As always we were engaged in conversation by a local man. After some talk of politics we both return to our walks, ours taking us up to Batty Moss signal box before returning to Margery parked at the rear of to the Station Inn with many other campervans.

It was a beautiful afternoon. The sun shone, the dales a watercolour painting. Parking overnight at the pub is allowed if you partake of a meal. Today would have been John's mother's one hundred and first birthday, so naturally we wanted to raise a glass. The pub was noisy and busy. We are in three peaks challenge country. Climbing three peaks in twenty four hours, and there were lots of young people in the area doing just that.

Our stomachs full of excellent food eaten in the company of a local couple who asked where we'd visited and where we were headed. Back at Margery another small VW camper had arrived, parked about a foot away from us. Great! It's going to be an interesting night in the pop tops.