Kettlewell, Yorkshire Dales (day 2)

When we left our lovely little overnight park up by the pretty stone bridge this morning we knew we'd want to return back to this peaceful spot after our visit to Skipton.

Skipton is the 'big town', in these parts, and we needed to visit there to shop at Aldi, take a walk around the town and visit the nine hundred year old castle. The weather was onside, the temperature in the low twenties. Skipton is the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales.

The Leeds and Liverpool canal runs through the town. The town is medieval, and much of the character from those times is evident in the town. Cobbled streets, and buildings mixed well with both independent and high street shops. As we wandered around Angela noticed an Ercol kitchen chair beside a bin in an alleyway next to a cafe. 

Unsurprisingly, we now have two Ercol kitchen chairs squeezed in the back of Margery ready for John to repair. And what a bargain, the cafe owner said we could have them for free! The town was busy, and after calling at the bank to change some notes into coins, which we promised to invest into Yorkshire, we set off to the castle at the top of the town.

It was late afternoon, and we were able to tour the castle almost alone. It makes such a difference when you can actually look around properly and take photographs without someone 'photo bombing'. As castles go, this one really impressed. And from the top windows the view out across the dales were fantastic. Back at Margery, who was parked by the canal, the motorhomes circled. There were five overnight spaces in the car park, not nearly enough. Leaving the town, we were glad to have just a thirty minute drive back to Kettering. Tonight there are only three vans here. The little parking area can also be used for cars to park overnight at a cost of £3.00. Cash of course. Next to us a man from Leeds. Retired. Staying at the youth hostel in the village. We thought youth hostels were for people walking or cycling. These days it seems anyone can stay. He liked to talk, a lot. But he lost Angela's attention as soon as he said we were richer in the south than people in the north. Don't get her started on this subject. It makes her blood boil! After having to listen to half an hour of his verbal diarrhoea, she lost patience, announcing it was time for us to cook our dinner. Later this evening John told her he'd spotted the Ercol furniture in the rear of Margery and commented, ' you've bought chairs with you then'. For Angela, there were no words....

Kettlewell, Yorkshire Dales

Keen to secure a parking place at Malham Cove we were away by nine. As we drove through the picturesque dales we barely saw another vehicle. The dales cover an area of over 820 sq feet, in every direction the views are of lush green pasture, heathland, dry stone walls and sheep, with a few cows thrown in the mix. Deciding to arrive early at Malham village had been a good plan. By the time we'd changed into our walking boots and packed our day packs the car park began to fill up. There was a chill in the morning air, and a few minutes after we set off on our four and a half mile walk, waterproof jackets were hastily pulled from our backpacks as passing nimbostratus clouds deposited their precipitation. Fortunately not for long.

As we walked towards Malham Cove we caught sight of the 230 foot gently curving cliff of limestone. It was very impressive.

Even more impressive the four hundred and twenty steps we had to ascend to the limestone paving that sits upon the cliff. Our recent walk on a section of the South West coast path set is in good stead for the climb.

The views across the dales from the top were stunning. The weather now settled the warmth of the late summer sun kissed our cheeks. But we could not linger, Gordale Scar beckoned. As we took the well trodden path across to it we stumbled upon a man selling refreshments. It was  lunchtime so we bought hot drinks and settled down to eat our lunch. The heat of the sun intensifying we allowed it to bathe us whilst we ate.

Gordale Scar is a huge limestone gorge. As you round the corner at the end of the path it towers above. Awesome.

A man was scaling the sheer side, meticulously picking his way slowly up the craggy facade, and then he lost his footing. Everyone watching gasped. Fortunately he was attached to a safety line.

The third place to visit on our circular walk was Janet's Foss. According to folklore Janet was queen of the fairies, and she lived behind the waterfall (foss). A precarious scramble over rocks, shiny and polished from years of people treating this path, took us through a magical woodland.

Ferns lined the banks of the beck, and fallen trees covered in soft velvety moss lay in the water. The return path back to Malham village made for easier walking.

An unusual breed of brown dreadlock styled sheep caught our eye. A pair stared us out. Their black rimmed eyes and noses looked like masks. Angela named them Batman and Robin. As a reward for our climbing, walking, stumbling, slipping and scrambling we treated ourselves to Mint Magnum ice creams. To visit Malham Cove we'd back tracked over the dales. And boy were we glad we did. The visit here had been fantastic. Wanting to be near to Skipton in readiness for our visit tomorrow we drove the 'hairy scary'  route which Angela hoped she wouldn't have to back across to Kettlewell. Kettlewell is a quintessential beautiful village in the Yorkshire Dales national Park. Angela had found a place for us to stay opposite the village garage, alongside the River Wharfe. The parking area is privately owned and for just five pounds campervans and motorhomes can park overnight. Bargain! As we walked around the village it soon became apparent we were in second home territory. Sixty in fact. Thirty of which are for sale thanks to the doubling of council tax on second properties. Margery has a little spot by a deserted building, next to a redundant water tank, beside an old cement mixer. But we don't mind, we have a side garden, and a side garden with a view. Over the rooftops we can see the hills of the dales. The couple who own the land came around in the evening to empty the honesty box, taking time to talk to everyone. As with everyone we've met, with exception of the farmer at Semer Water, everyone had been friendly, charming and funny. One thing that amuses us here in Yorkshire are the signs people display. The farmer at Semer Water, too many to mention, all officious. On the fence by the campsite at Malham the sign read. 'Don't feed or stroke the cows. Leave them alone'. And in the village here. 'Don't even think about parking here'. They certainly say it as it is here!’