Saint-Georges-de-la-Riviere, Manche

Last night's stop should have been a good one, but sadly despite the town of Port-Bail being quiet, the road that ran alongside the aire wasn't. Also our neighbour decided to rearrange the interior of his motorhome at one forty five in the morning!We had talked about staying a second night, but these problems decided otherwise. So Barfleur was to be tonight's stop. Or perhaps not. Our car ferry home doesn't leave until just after six tomorrow evening, so we have plenty of time to drive up country. With that in mind, we are now at a free park up right by a spectacular white sand beach, peppered with very pretty coloured miniature shells.

In the distance, the towns of Barneville and Carteret. And it is just a five mile drive down the road from last night's stop. So a nice easy day for Margery.

Nestled amongst the sand dunes, with skylarks singing as they fly overhead, and butterflies silently going about their business the spot feels very peaceful, even with a few local people arriving to spend the afternoon at the beach. We packed a lunch and took a walk along the sands, across dry crusty earth through the tidal marshlands and into the town of Carteret, and then on to Barneville.

We very much needed to get some steps in, in readiness for our upcoming long walk along a section of the south west coast path. The area here is known as the Cote du Isles, named so as from here you can see some of the Channel islands.

Fantastic beaches sand dunes and a national regional Park grace the area. We cant  believe how quiet the area is in mid July. The Contentin peninsula we feel deserves more interest. Stunning beaches, beautiful harbours, pretty towns and excellent seafood. But it seems for many it's just an area you drive through to and from the Port of Cherbourg. We drive this way often, and always like to spend a few days in the area. In fact tomorrow we are planning to leave early so we can take a walk along the coast from St. Vaast le Houque to Le Goeland Plage before heading to Cherbourg. Sorry Barfleur, we might have to give you a miss this time.

Port-Bail, Manche

When we arrived at last night's park up we were pleased to see another English van. It turned out to be the one who arrived late evening on the aire when we were at Treguier a few days ago. Angela remembers them arriving because the man hopped out of the van, rubbed his hands together, announced what a lovely spot it was. 'Freeman's', as well. Then he proceeded to set out his table and chairs, something not allowed on French sites, unless you're actually French. We hoped he wouldn't engage us in conversation. Luckily he didn't. Today we decided to drive further up the western side of the Contentin peninsula, rather than cross to the west as we usually do. We'd forgotten how pretty the drive was on the west side. The vibrant green leaves of the sweet corn crop, swaying in a light breeze and the regiment lines of carrots and leeks thriving in the sandy soil, alongside fields of horses, the foals out for the count, and cows with heavily laden swelling udders, portrayed a perfect rural scene. Spotting picnic tables we stopped for lunch, realising we'd stopped at the same location once before, The Pont Du Roque.

In 1944 the old bridge was destroyed by the allies as part of operation cobra, to impede the German retreat, it also hampered the allies who needed to cross the river, so a bailey bridge was erected to connect the two damaged ends of the bridge. Then onto Port-Bail was our destination, a little further up the coast. Arriving at the parking, some of the French looked displeased to see us. 'Don't you look down your nose at Margery, just because she's a small van and not a whopping great big eyesore of a white box'. Honestly, it was unbelievable they that they gave us a sideways glance, but not the eyesore of a caravan ratchet strapped onto the chassis of a flat bed truck that left shortly after our arrival.

The Germans however were friendly. We were pleased to be back in Port-Bail, not having passed this way for quite a few years when we were cycling. We were pleased to see it was as beautiful and unspoilt as we remember. The only difference, the church Notre-Dame was being used as an art gallery. Seemed a bit random, but the paintings and sculptures were nice.

Port-Bail is just one of those places that's makes you feel relaxed. As abandoned wooden boats, their ribs long broken, grace the shore, other seaworthy vessels sit drunkenly on sandbanks awaiting this evenings tide which will reposition them.

As yesterday evening, we know another incredible sunset will soon arrive. We intend to enjoy, it, as it will probably be our last of this trip. We are feeling a little subdued now, tomorrow we will return to Barfleur where our holiday began four weeks ago. Then we were full of excitement and felt free as birds. Hopefully after all the things that need addressing when we return home are dealt with, we'll be off on yet another adventure. And adventures don't need to cost a fortune.They can be a day trip out, or a holiday. On this trip we've not covered as many miles as we normally do, so our fuel costs are down. And paid overnight stays have totalled only £243.00. Most of that cost being our time spent at Camping Bel Air on the Ile de Re. So we have euros still in the kitty, and we can't wait to spend them. Sorry French people, Margery will be returning!

Pontorson, Manche

This morning, the bay looked different. Despite a light rain falling, the early morning light lit the beach. The green of the seaweed than ran across it looked vibrant. As we breakfasted, the amphibious mussel boats rolled across the sands.

Mussel harvesting appeared to be a seven day a week occupation. Our French neighbours, friendly, seemed 'a little posh', Early yesterday evening they placed outdoor chairs on an outdoor carpet and drank Aperol, a bittersweet Italian aperitif. Why not. It made Angela smile, they were dressed in smart evening wear drinking aperitifs in a, well let's not talk it up, a car park, with a view. Good on them. This morning in backless slippers and dressing gown the man walked down to the service point to empty the contents of his chemical toilet, whilst his dog wandered around outside, stopping to make a large deposit right opposite Margery. She doesn't appreciate that kind of behaviour, and neither do we. Sadly the dog owners here often let their dogs out to do just this. Which is why, in France, you'd best watch where you step. We needed a shower, and knowing Flower Camping campsites, (not sure about any others), will allow you to use their sanitaries for a few euros, John telephoned the nearest one to us. No problem. 2.5 euros each. That'll do. Arriving at the campsite the girl on reception charged John for just one of us. The same thing happened last time. 2 for the price of 1. Next stop on our trip, Cancale to eat oysters, which we've only done once before nearly twenty-five years ago, and we weren't so keen. So time to revisit Cancale, and give oysters another chance. 

And this time, we didn't mind them. The walk to the cove to eat them at the little beach cafe was a bit of a trek, but we didn't mind, the views were beautiful and we needed some coast path walking practice in readiness for our next holiday. 

Once again the rain has returned this evening. Last Sunday 40c, this Sunday 20c, which we don't mind, it still feels warm, and more comfortable. Tonight's stop, the Carrefour supermarket car park, Pontorson, near to Mont St. Michel. There are around fifteen vans here, three English.

It will do us for the night. Not sure it's somewhere you'd sit out and drink Aperol. Saying that, we think our French neighbours from last night probably would.