Fidden Farm Campsite, Fionnphort (day 2)

Yesterday evening's beautiful sunset was followed by a bright clear start this morning. The weather settled, with no rain forecast we dealt with our chores before walking down to Fionnphort to catch the short ferry crossing to the tiny island of Iona.

We visited here a few years ago, and the weather was warm, just as it was today. The weather in Scotland messes with your head. How can it be so glorious one day, and horrible the next? The island of Iona is famous for its beautiful restored medieval abbey and white sand beaches. Around 130,000 visitors visit each year, and today we became two of that number. Most of today's visitors seemed to be American.

 Finding a quiet spot in the garden of the Argyll Hotel overlooking the Sound of Iona towards Mull, just one mile away, we unpacked our lunch. Angela bought drinks from the bar and we settled down to a relaxed Sunday afternoon whilst enjoying warm sunshine and incredible views. Once again the weather had, delivered, we couldn't have wished for better.

Reluctant to leave our 'seats with a view', we walked up to the ruins of the medieval nunnery and then to the nearby graveyard where the John Smith, leader of the Labor party for almost two years before his untimely death, is buried.

As the sun warmed us, Angela felt an ice cream was in order. It might now be autumn, but sun and warmth in September equals late summer in her books. Our brief visit to Iona, over, we boarded the return ferry. Back at Marge John sorted out wood to cook the local venison sausages we bought a few days ago. The wind up, a chill returned to the air. Our spot on the campsite is right by the sea. As the tide crept in, John spotted a small, slender dark chocolate brown animal scuttling in and around the nearby granite rocks. Was it a small otter? No, it was an American mink! What a sighting, our first ever mink, what a perfect end to the day.

Fidden Farm Campsite, Fionnphort

What a miserable night! As forecast the rain began falling heavily at two this morning and didn't relent until about eight. Outside Marge's back door was a large puddle. We have never experienced rain like it whilst visiting Mull. We could only hope the promised settled weather this afternoon would materialize. Whilst we're here, Angela wants us once again to visit the tiny island of Iona, just off the south western tip of Mull.

So full of optimism for an improving picture we packed up a soggy Marge and began the long drive to Fiannophort, where we would stay once again on the Fidden Farm campsite. As we trundled along wet roads, the views obscured by low clouds we could only hope Mull would deliver on the weather.

Quite often here a day starts wet and ends with beautiful sunshine, so fingers crossed. With such high precipitation these last few days the waterfalls that streaked down the mountains, visible through the cloud dropped almost vertically, the waters bouncing down towards the plunge pools below. Booking in at the farm campsite Angela mentioned the deluge we'd experienced last night as was told by the lady attending to her that Lochbuie, where we'd stayed was the wettest place on the island last night. Let's hope all is calm tonight. This area of ​​Mull is renowned for being windy, so Angela has been monitoring the weather to make sure all would be calm on our visit here. As promised the sun saw off the clouds and the afternoon weather delivered. We walked out around the beach collecting shells with the farm cat following John everywhere.

Angela spotted a seal out on one of the rocks, and we watched it until the rising tide prompted it to slip into the oily black sea water.

Shortly after we spotted another. This evening the tide was high, almost lapping at Marge's wheels, we watched the sun go down.

The light was stunning, what a difference to the gloomy start to the day this morning. That's Mull for you, it's full of surprises!

Click on the seal photo to watch a video of the seal on our YouTube channel.

Fidden Farm Campsite, Ffionofort, Isle of Mull (Day 2)

John survived his practice night in his little tent.

Angela survived the night luxuriating in Muddy Marge's large bed. The wind through the night was a little keen, but the new day dawned bright. Despite the chill in the air, we felt blessed to wake up in such a beautiful location. We also felt very lucky to be having continuous fairly good weather. Yes there's been a little rain, but nothing really to speak of. Today we were excited, it felt like a bucket list day.

We were going to visit the island of Staffa, see inside Fingal's cave and the puffins that return to the island in April to breed. As the boat moved slowly along the sound of Iona the crew steered the boat in amongst the rocks so we could see the seals basking on the rocks.

Then out into the open sea and, 'a bit of a swell'. But we didn't mind. John doesn't suffer with motion sickness, and Angela has taken a travel pill.

As the island of Staffa loomed large we couldn't believe we were actually there. The boat tied up alongside the little jetty and we made sure we were the first to disembark so that we'd be first down at Fingal's cave in order to be able to take some good photographs. Although a handrail has been put in place we still had to take care as we negotiated the basalt paving below our feet.

Staffa is a volcanic island made up of towering hexagonal basalt columns. It was spectacular. Angela didn't enter the cave because there was no handrail on the drop side, but John did.

Here we were in the middle of the deep blue sea, six miles from the island of Mull. It seemed unreal. And just when our visit couldn't become more exciting it did.

The puffins have recently returned to nest, and oh boy did they come out to play, providing us with fantastic photography. We had been first of the boat, and we're last to return, sad to be leaving the puffins, funny little fellas in black dinner jackets and white bibs. As Staffa faded into the distance we were once more in the swell. The boat swung from side to side unnerving some of the passengers, but not us. What a fantastic day it has been. Sadly it didn't end well.

Back at the campsite three vans had almost blocked us in. So much for six metres between us all. We were furious! Obviously we had to move. Now Muddy Marge is over in the overflow area of the campsite. It seems quiet so far, and we are literally right above the beach.

Today's visit to Staffa has made us hungry for more adventures. Life is meant to be lived, and we intent to do just that!

Fidden Farm Campsite, Fidden, Ffionofort, Isle of Mull

We decided it was time to move on, so we packed up early before a light rain shower was due to pass over. Fortunately when it did, it was nothing to speak of. Our drive to Ffionofort was only fifty five miles away, but this being Mull it would mean a drive of nearly two hours. We broke the journey at Pennyghael where there is a small shop adjacent to the campsite. The selection available was not as extensive as the Co-op in Tobermory, and also a lot more expensive. Since we've been on Mull the cost of three shops would have covered five shops at Aldi, but hey ho, it's all part of our trip. We feel though for the people on the island who have a limited choice of where to shop. On the plus side the little store served hot drinks so we indulged. Outside a local man was interviewing people asking them what they liked about Mull. We'd already spoken to him, saying we absolutely loved the island and why, but what we didn't like was the people who spoilt our enjoyment. At the loch yesterday evening two vans arrived around six in the evening. Thankfully they were about quarter of a mile away from us, but their music was cranked up so high we could hear the rapping and the continued boom of the base. Unbelievable! Here we were in one of the most tranquil, beautiful, away from it all places, and these people felt they had the right to ruin it. Fortunately it all ended around midnight, and this morning they were long gone. Obviously our negativity didn't allow us to be interviewed. It still being the bank holiday we were a little apprehensive how busy the campsite we were heading to might be. But we needn't have been concerned, it was fairly quiet. We know tomorrow quite a few people will leave. Sited near to us is a Belgian registered Iveco overland vehicle. We spent a long time talking with the owners exchanging information.

We have booked to stay here on the campsite for two nights. Even though it is now a lot cooler, it is dry, but also quite windy. We have a fantastic pitch in a slightly more sheltered area from where we can see across to the tiny island of Iona.

And once again, just before ten this evening we witnessed yet another incredible sunset.

 Hopefully the wind will calm a little in the night, as we have brought our lightweight tent with us that we will be using on our West Highland Way walk, and John is going to spend the night in it to test out it's suitability and also his lightweight warm clothing.

Angela knows she'll be cosy in Muddy Marge snuggled up in the teddy bear bedding. Hopefully we'll both sleep well. Tomorrow is going to be an exciting day for us, we have booked to go on the boat trip to the island of Staffa, something we've wanted to do in the past, but just not had the opportunity. Now we have the mindset that life is short and we must just 'go for it'!