Le Bois-Plage-en-Re, Ile de Re, Charente-Maritime

This morning Angela was up early keen, to hand wash a few items whilst we still had access to a constant supply of hot water. Every other morning on the campsite it has been sunny, and more often than not breezy. This morning, no sun, and no breeze. We had until midday to vacate our pitch and didn't want a van full of wet clothing. But good fortune was with us, and the sun which was constantly being swallowed by the cloud, broke loose. On cue, a whisper of a breeze slowly moved the washing on the line. At five minutes to twelve, everything was dry apart from one pair of slightly damp socks. Thank god. Washing done it was time to leave. Leave La Flotte, not the Ile de Re. On some of the motorhome Facebook groups Angela follows, there are reports of increasing numbers of visitors around the Brittany coast. Northern Brittany in particular as on July 5th the Tour de France cycle race begins. All the campsites around Caen, Bayeaux and St. Malo our full around that time as the tour begins in this area. We don't like crowds or chaos, and we love the Ile de Re. After our walk out yesterday evening how could we leave the island so soon. 

The beautiful colours lit by the setting sun, of the boats sat lopsided on the sand as the tide ebbed made for a perfect evening. We couldn't leave, we didn't need to leave. So after a quick shop we headed up the island to an official overnight parking spot at Le Bois-Plage-en-Re. We've stayed here before, both in Marge and Muddy Marge. There is space for four vans. Fortunately there were were none. Pick your spot Margery.

 Today was supposed to be a lot cooler than late. It wasn't. Yes, more breeze, but the sun high in the summer sky was intense. After our early awakening, we read a while and waited for the temperature to drop before walking out.

The beaches on the island are stunning, and the one here just a few metres away is no exception. 

The view along the white sand beach is magical. The smell of the ocean, salt and seaweed is all here. Early evening we were joined by a young English man. He'd taken the overnight ferry from Dieppe, stopped a few times to rest, and lured by the thought of warm dry weather kept driving. He told us it was raining in Dieppe when he arrived. His attire, jeans and a jumper. His planned onward trip over the next month, France, over the Pyrenees into Spain, Andorra and perhaps Italy. After two years of renovating his van, this is his first European trip. Oh to be young and energetic. We could feel his excitement, envied his youth, but knew we shared the same ethos as us.  Travelling is not running away, but living life before it runs from you, which is how we intend to carry on with ours.

La Flotte, Ile de Re, Charente-Maritime. (Day 11)

The French are great recyclers. They leave boxes of items outside their homes for people to take, and the same at recycling points. John loves this type of thing, and Angela quite often has to restrain him from taking any of the items. She's not sure though if a part used packet of large Tena pants up at the campsite's recycling area is something that would interest him. Despite still being hot, the weather is a lot fresher, so we walked along the coast to the Abbey des Chateliers.

Built in the twelfth century the beautiful ruins dominate the coastal landscape they sit in. Today is our last day on the island, and we wanted to take a couple of walks out, for old times sake. The garden at the abbaye is a haven for bees and butterflies. Back at home we hardly ever see butterflies, but here in France we've been spoilt, seeing species we've only ever heard about. 

(Brimstone Yellow)

Today feels a little sad. Steve and Lynn, the English couple who moved to France twenty years ago left the campsite this morning. We enjoyed their company, they were good fun, and this evening it feels strange not to be able to wander across to their van and have a chat and a laugh. It's true what they say. It's not always the places you visit that you remember, but the people you meet along the way. Tomorrow we'll continue our journey. We feel incredibly lucky to be able to travel, almost without restriction, where and when we wish. We realise others would love to be in our position. Our message is, if you can, go for it! As you know, Angela loves a quotation. And today she wants to end the blog with this one.

 'New Beginnings'

Life doesn’t always turn out the way we imagined. The path we planned may shift beneath our feet, and the dreams we once held close might slip through our fingers. Sometimes, life has other plans, ones we never saw coming, ones we never would have chosen. But that doesn’t mean the journey is over.

Don’t waste the time you’re given waiting for perfect conditions or wishing things had gone differently. Use this moment, this breath, this heartbeat, to begin again. There is still beauty to be found in the unexpected. You can still laugh through tears, find hope in the ashes, and dance in the rain.

Even when the skies are gray and the map is unclear, your story isn’t finished. You can always dream new dreams, build new beginnings, and write a future that honors both where you’ve been and where you’re going.

 by Spirit of a Hippie 

La Flotte, Ile de Re, Charente Maritime. (Day 10)

'Do something everyday that scares you', is one of Angela's great sayings. Well today was one of those days. We have cycled all over the island in the past, but never visited the Phare des Baleines, (Whale Lighthouse).

The lighthouse is one of the tallest in France at 60 metres.

Climbing the 257 steps inside it didn't really bother Angela until we started the ascent and she glanced down through the stairwell in the inner chamber of the lighthouse. Oh my God. And just when it couldn't get worse, we had to climb up a narrow metal section to reach the gallery that encircled the watch room. The view from the top was however fantastic.

In one direction a vast white sand beach, the seawater a stunning turquoise, the other flat open countryside, salt pans and wildlife. But Angela was uneasy, she was more than a little panicked about the descent. She suffers from acrophobia, in other words not so keen on heights. It causes fear of instability especially when descending a steep flight of stairs.

But with John's assistance we walked side by side down together, Angela holding on to John's hand for dear life. John reminded Angela she wanted to visit the lighthouse. Angela is determined to beat some of her fears, and in the last few months she's flown twice, taken a cable car and now conquered walking down 257 steps trying not to look down. Her new saying is, 'feel the fear, but do it anyway', if you don't you may miss out on some wonderful things. Today has once again been very hot, but thankfully when we stopped at the small town of Ars-en-Re a welcome breeze greeted us. The town is pretty, low houses with white washed facades line narrow cobbled streets.

The church of Saint-Etienne with its striking black and white bell tower can be seen for miles. Many years ago it was used as a marker for sailors. This evening the weather has changed. It feels cooler and fresher. Down at the harbour in La Flotte we were surprised how overnight the visitors had changed. Less oldies, and more young trendy types and families. The main holiday season is about to begin here in France. Tomorrow will be our last day on the Ile de Re, so we will probably take a long walk out now the weather is cooler. We will be sad to leave the island, but can see from the increasing visitor numbers that the time is right. 

La Flotte, Charente-Maritime. (Day 9)

Everyone on the campsite is subdued. It is just so hot, and the constant breeze that normally finds its way through the trees has gone. The air is still. Oppressive. As we all wearily went about our chores this morning everyone says the same thing, 'isn't it hot'. Come on guys you're on your holidays, isn't this the weather you hoped for when you booked? This morning we ambled down to the town, took a quick look around the market and returned to Margery.

There was no way we were venturing further afield. What we did do though was drink copious amounts of water. Of the six 1.5 litre bottles bought yesterday we have only two left. We didn't mind sitting around for the afternoon. There is always something or rather someone to amuse us on the campsite. Today some English who were catching the bus from outside the campsite to St. Martin de Re, told us they were riding up to reception on their electric bikes, which they would leave locked until their return. The walk to reception is three minutes. Angela should know, she does it at least four times a day as the showers and bins are in that area. Just when you think you've seen and heard it all. We were gob smacked! Just before ten this evening, our stomachs and bladders full of water we walked down to the harbour.  

The bright warm sunshine of the past few days made for a fantastic colourful display as flowers of many colours and varieties burst forth. The harbour area was busy, and we couldn't resist a late evening ice cream.

The yellow lighting from the restaurants made the area even prettier. It was the place to be at that moment.

How lucky were we. Beautiful views and delicious ice cream. Perfect.