Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave

It was 3 degrees C inside Marge when we woke up this morning. Ice had formed on the outside of Marge's sunroof, and the grass was white with frost.

 Despite the cold of the night, we'd been as snug as two little mice in a nest. A bright sky welcomed the day. Unfortunately, Marge was parked at the wrong end of the Aire, in the shade. We were the only van last night, which always unnerves Angela. But all was fine. Before leaving we walked a little way along the river Lot. Three kayakers silently paddled by barely disturbing the water. The market was on in the small town. Just three stalls. Taking advantage of the services we filled up Marge's 100 litre water tank before we left.

Today we didn't want to drive far so headed to Valence D'Agen on the canal lateral du Garonne. Our drive took us from the Atlantic area and into the Mid-Pyrenees. The terrain was interesting. Marge wheezed up the hills. Filling the water tank was a good idea, wasn't it? Sorry Marge. The drive took us through landscapes of newly ploughed earth, rugged and dry and fields of green. We exchanged grapevines for crops. High up the views were amazing. Stop Marge! Photo opportunity.

Look at that hilltop town. And so, we continued. Stop. Look at the popular trees, regimented and naked they would make a nice photograph.

Eventually we started to descend. A helter-skelter of a drive. Marge sailed down flying by some lovely homes that were more like Spanish villas than the traditional French houses we'd become accustomed to. 

By lunchtime we'd reached the canal. We knew the area and during the summer months it is popular with vans. Not today. Just Marge.

Parked by the old abattoir, built in the 1830's we felt alone and isolated.

Never the less we walked in to the town which was large, run down and didn't have a particularly nice vibe. John discovered a card operated automatic fruit and veg shop or rather dispensary. Why? When there was a supermarket nearby that was open seven days a week. Tempted to have a go at this vending concept he bought some grapes. 

The cold weather these last few days has made us realise that France is best seen when the sun shines, as it was a week ago. There is also another saying. Never go back to faces and places. We had lovely memories of a lot of the places we've visited here, but were starting to realise that we should perhaps not revisit and just hold on to those memories. Places change, just as people do. Around half past six we decided to move on a little to the small town of Saint-Nicolas-de-la- Grave, where it turned out we'd been to before to use the service point on the aire. There was a van already there. The man gave us a welcoming thumbs up.

So now Marge is settled in a small, quiet town. But what a town. We've never seen houses in such a bad state of repair as the ones here. Missing rendering and mortar, missing roof tiles and rotten window frames, and cracks, very big cracks! Even the renaissance church is in a state of collapse!

Tomorrow we will head in the direction of Toulouse. The weather is set to improve, thank goodness. We're seeking the sun, Marge. Head towards the Mediterranean.