Gruinard Bay

This morning Angela ached, not so much from yesterday’s climb up the mountain but because she was unwell. A sore throat that had been troubling her for days took hold during the night adding to it a pounding head. I feel unwell Marge. We mustn’t drive too far today. To add to the misery of the morning the rain fell heavily. However we remained optimistic.

Around mid morning we bid farewell to the Royal Hotel, thankful that they offered a quiet and safe stopover on a Friday night. We wanted to take a look in the outdoor shop in the town before leaving and also purchase some medication for Angela.  Without warning, the rain suddenly stopped. A widening strip of blue pushed the dark clouds still full with rain aside. Shopping done we fired up Marge.

Right Marge, let’s go. The road from Ullapool twisted and turned, rose and fell. Taking us through valleys and glens, where there were waterfalls a plenty. The rain returned. First a drizzle and then heavier. With it came the lowering cloud obscuring views we should have seen of lochs and mountains. Finally, as we approached Mellon Udrigle which was supposed to be our overnight stop we were astounded at just how quickly the weather changed. Beautiful far reaching blue skies and sunshine a plenty. Did we really just drive from Ullapool in such terrible weather?

Sadly, the small campsite looking over the beach which a couple we met weeks ago at Ardtoe had recommended was closed. Great, going to park me in some random lay-by now then? No Marge, we promise to be selective, it’ll be a parking area with a view. Promise.

Mellon Udrigle was a truly stunning place with far reaching views across to the Summer Isles. Sand dunes, rocks, rock pools, headlands and a vast sweeping sandy beach. We were here now and although we couldn’t stay we walked out across the dunes and on to the beach. 

Right Marge, let’s get you settled. A few miles back was Gruinard Bay. We stayed here last year so headed off knowing it was a beautiful parking spot with stunning views across the bay back towards Mellon Udrigle. Happy Marge? Look, there’s a fellow Volkswagen to keep you company. The parking area was busy, besides the two vans there were many cars. Up near the woods behind us a large group of veterans (ex military) are wild camping. 

More walking, this time along the verge of the passing road. John foraging book in hand was keen to find some edible mushrooms (Shaggy Caps) to put in his breakfast omelette. After some time fungi spotting, we returned to Marge as Angela was feeling weary. Leaving her to rest whilst John walked along the beach.

This evening as the sun set somewhere behind the mountain range across the bay, the sky turned orange to purple to pink to grey. Beautiful. Scotland is starting to reel us in. Everyday we are wowed by stunning scenery and we just can’t get enough of it.

Tomorrow we are hoping for some settled weather as there is a walk we’d like to take a little further on. So far we’ve been lucky with the weather, it tends to settle down around lunchtime, so fingers crossed.