Port-Bail, Manche

When we arrived at last night's park up we were pleased to see another English van. It turned out to be the one who arrived late evening on the aire when we were at Treguier a few days ago. Angela remembers them arriving because the man hopped out of the van, rubbed his hands together, announced what a lovely spot it was. 'Freeman's', as well. Then he proceeded to set out his table and chairs, something not allowed on French sites, unless you're actually French. We hoped he wouldn't engage us in conversation. Luckily he didn't. Today we decided to drive further up the western side of the Contentin peninsula, rather than cross to the west as we usually do. We'd forgotten how pretty the drive was on the west side. The vibrant green leaves of the sweet corn crop, swaying in a light breeze and the regiment lines of carrots and leeks thriving in the sandy soil, alongside fields of horses, the foals out for the count, and cows with heavily laden swelling udders, portrayed a perfect rural scene. Spotting picnic tables we stopped for lunch, realising we'd stopped at the same location once before, The Pont Du Roque.

In 1944 the old bridge was destroyed by the allies as part of operation cobra, to impede the German retreat, it also hampered the allies who needed to cross the river, so a bailey bridge was erected to connect the two damaged ends of the bridge. Then onto Port-Bail was our destination, a little further up the coast. Arriving at the parking, some of the French looked displeased to see us. 'Don't you look down your nose at Margery, just because she's a small van and not a whopping great big eyesore of a white box'. Honestly, it was unbelievable they that they gave us a sideways glance, but not the eyesore of a caravan ratchet strapped onto the chassis of a flat bed truck that left shortly after our arrival.

The Germans however were friendly. We were pleased to be back in Port-Bail, not having passed this way for quite a few years when we were cycling. We were pleased to see it was as beautiful and unspoilt as we remember. The only difference, the church Notre-Dame was being used as an art gallery. Seemed a bit random, but the paintings and sculptures were nice.

Port-Bail is just one of those places that's makes you feel relaxed. As abandoned wooden boats, their ribs long broken, grace the shore, other seaworthy vessels sit drunkenly on sandbanks awaiting this evenings tide which will reposition them.

As yesterday evening, we know another incredible sunset will soon arrive. We intend to enjoy, it, as it will probably be our last of this trip. We are feeling a little subdued now, tomorrow we will return to Barfleur where our holiday began four weeks ago. Then we were full of excitement and felt free as birds. Hopefully after all the things that need addressing when we return home are dealt with, we'll be off on yet another adventure. And adventures don't need to cost a fortune.They can be a day trip out, or a holiday. On this trip we've not covered as many miles as we normally do, so our fuel costs are down. And paid overnight stays have totalled only £243.00. Most of that cost being our time spent at Camping Bel Air on the Ile de Re. So we have euros still in the kitty, and we can't wait to spend them. Sorry French people, Margery will be returning!

Plage Dragey-Ronthom, Manche

It rained steadily through the night, not easing until mid morning. We'd become so used to long hot days it was a bit of a shock. But we sat it out, and at lunchtime drove down to the Mont St. Michel from Pontorson. 

It is one of the most visited places in France by both pilgrims and visitors. Sadly it's now lost its originality as a site for pilgrims to flock to. Now it's a tool to make money. Firstly to park, how does 20.00 euros for three hours sound? Two coffees an extortionate 9 euros, a visit to the toilet, another euro. We haven't been to the Mont for over twenty years, but Angela always becomes excited at the sight of it when we drive down the N175. Driving past to Angela, means she's on her way to the Atlantic coast of France. Finding ourselves, as just another visitor, we were tumbled around amongst people of all nationalities.

The narrow streets congested, we bailed out up onto the ramparts.The views across the bay, devoid of water towards open countryside were great even on a dull day.

The grandeur of the tides in this area are incredible. When a rainshower passed over, we were glad to see a massive exodus. There were just too many visitors. We'd managed to park Margery for free in the nearby village of Beauvoir, and then walk alongside the river to the causeway, a very persistent headwind turning a gentle stroll into a workout. To save our legs, we caught the free shuttle bus back part of the way. Yes, free! Our total spend on the Mont St. Michel, 10.00 euros.

This evening we are once again at a beautiful stop right by the beach, with incredible views back towards the Mont St. Michel. We couldn't wait to take an evening stroll along the beach. How we've missed evenings like this. And to end the day, another incredible sunset. As the day comes to a close, we both agree the Mont St. Michel is best viewed from afar. That'll be from the N175 then Angela.

 

Pontorson, Manche

This morning, the bay looked different. Despite a light rain falling, the early morning light lit the beach. The green of the seaweed than ran across it looked vibrant. As we breakfasted, the amphibious mussel boats rolled across the sands.

Mussel harvesting appeared to be a seven day a week occupation. Our French neighbours, friendly, seemed 'a little posh', Early yesterday evening they placed outdoor chairs on an outdoor carpet and drank Aperol, a bittersweet Italian aperitif. Why not. It made Angela smile, they were dressed in smart evening wear drinking aperitifs in a, well let's not talk it up, a car park, with a view. Good on them. This morning in backless slippers and dressing gown the man walked down to the service point to empty the contents of his chemical toilet, whilst his dog wandered around outside, stopping to make a large deposit right opposite Margery. She doesn't appreciate that kind of behaviour, and neither do we. Sadly the dog owners here often let their dogs out to do just this. Which is why, in France, you'd best watch where you step. We needed a shower, and knowing Flower Camping campsites, (not sure about any others), will allow you to use their sanitaries for a few euros, John telephoned the nearest one to us. No problem. 2.5 euros each. That'll do. Arriving at the campsite the girl on reception charged John for just one of us. The same thing happened last time. 2 for the price of 1. Next stop on our trip, Cancale to eat oysters, which we've only done once before nearly twenty-five years ago, and we weren't so keen. So time to revisit Cancale, and give oysters another chance. 

And this time, we didn't mind them. The walk to the cove to eat them at the little beach cafe was a bit of a trek, but we didn't mind, the views were beautiful and we needed some coast path walking practice in readiness for our next holiday. 

Once again the rain has returned this evening. Last Sunday 40c, this Sunday 20c, which we don't mind, it still feels warm, and more comfortable. Tonight's stop, the Carrefour supermarket car park, Pontorson, near to Mont St. Michel. There are around fifteen vans here, three English.

It will do us for the night. Not sure it's somewhere you'd sit out and drink Aperol. Saying that, we think our French neighbours from last night probably would.