Callander

The mornings are a little colder now, but a quick blast from the van heater warms us and we're ready for the new day. The sun was up, warming Marge as it strengthened. All around trees of red and gold and ferns of bronze bring us joy. Autumn here is everywhere, how will we ever get used to life back in our house. Today sadly we were leaving Ardnamurchan. A wonderful isolated, remote, beautiful, relaxed area. But leave we must. Time to start heading home Marge. 

As we drove alongside Loch Sunart we were hypnotised by the scenery all around. This was otter country. The tide was out, exposing their feeding ground, but we couldn't spot any on the shoreline. Shame. We would like to have seen one last one before we leave Scotland. The reflections in the loch of the moored boats and mountains captured us. We just had to stop and take photographs. 

To leave Ardnamurchan we needed to take the Corrin ferry to avoid the long drive around via Fort William. The queue was long but Marge was loaded and before we knew it, she was disembarking. The journey just four minutes long. Then we drove on to Glencoe, still popular despite being late in the season.

We have recently bought two new photography/travel guide books. A short walk to a waterfall featured in them just outside Glencoe village was en-route and not too taxing. So, we parked Marge up to take a look.

Then further long we lunched at another spot featured in the books. The weather was perfect for photographs, not too bright, clear and dry. Then the drive through the great Glencoe valley with its awe-inspiring views.

The road is fast and straight with the odd bend. What we couldn't comprehend was the mentality of most of the other drivers powering along like they were driving on a motorway. The driving was a tad unpleasant. Slow down Marge they'll overtake. I wish these idiots would drop back. So did Angela. Why wouldn't you take time to enjoy the experience of driving through this wonderful place. Numbskulls! 

Later, as we entered the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park we found it difficult to find a suitable overnight stop. Callander loomed, let's try there. No overnight in the town. Anywhere. So, we ventured up towards the Bracklinns Falls where we joined two other vans in a parking area amongst the trees. By now the weather had changed. Rain fell heavily, forecast to last all night. Oh well, we'd had good weather when it mattered at Glencoe. 

We have four more days until we really need to leave Scotland and want to make the most of them. We are away from the larger mountains and are already missing them. As for our family, they seem a little worried we are in Scotland with temperatures dropping. Tonight's temperature is forecast to be 10c. Don't worry about us. 

Ariundle

This the 300th entry in our blog!

Last night it was just us and Marge at Ardtoe. Great. We felt like the little van parking area opposite the beach was exclusively ours. This morning we spoke to the man who owned the area. In fact, he owned all the land in the immediate area, the static caravan site, two holiday cottages and two crofts. The day had started cold but was soon warmed by the autumn sun. The light moved across the beach and over the hills. Words cannot describe how beautiful the view was. Ardtoe is a tiny bay with lots of character and we were keen to photograph it. Other people thought so as well, and soon the cars arrived, their occupants unloading expensive cameras and lenses. The paparazzi's arrived Marge. Are they here to photograph me? No, sorry, the scenery. Ardtoe is a special place and nearly all the van people we meet we tell them about it. You'll popularise it and there may not be a space for you next time. No Marge, we're not worried about that. We just want to share this beautiful spot.

It was midday before we finished taking photographs. The spring tide keeping the water from the beach exposed the rocks in the bay and the clear sky meant we could see over to Eigg, one of the small isles where John has relatives.

Not fazed by the narrow roads of Scotland Marge happily breezed along through beautiful scenery. The vibrant colours of autumn flashing by. Suddenly, signal, pull into this layby Marge. Much of Ardnamurchan is very much off the radar so this was a result. Blog posted and messages checked and sent we decided to stay a while and have our lunch. Next to us grew Christmas trees. Is it too early to cut one? Would it fit inside Marge? No, it won't. Buy one nearer the time, and as your grandson Jack says, just pay the man. That's us told Marge.

Today we were going to the Ariundle Oakwood National Nature Reserve to walk through the ancient oakwood. Parking for two motorhomes' is allowed overnight. Yeah right. We bet in the summer the car park was full every night. Walking boots on we followed the trail through the ancient oak trees, their leaves yellowing. Across the valley in contrast were the vibrant greens of the fir trees.

It was a magical woodland with lichen, moss, liverwort and fungi thriving in the damp conditions. Fungi. John was excited. The season for chanterelle mushrooms has ended but he was not deterred. His persistency paid off and by the end of our walk his cap was full enough for a mushroom omelette in the morning. There's no hiding place for these particular fungi when John's around. 

Back at the parking area Marge had been joined by two other vans and a caravan. Rule breakers. In the distance we could hear a stag deer calling to the does. It is mating season, watch out ladies.

We are now on the return leg of our trip. We need to be home in about eleven days' time. Having not yet left Scotland we have today been thinking of a return trip next Spring. For now, we must decide which route we will take out of this beautiful country over the next few days.

A visitor for Marge.

Pale Oyster mushrooms? I think so, but best leave them as I'm not 100% sure.

Ardtoe

A little windy last night Marge, at least it was blowing on to the shore. On to the shore, off the shore, along the shore, I didn’t care for it. No neither did we.

Never mind, look at the cattle on the beach dipping a hoof or two into the rolling surf. Others nibbled at the ropes on the lobster pots and another nibbled at a crab. Is this normal behaviour for cows? They’re not going to start sniffing around me are they. Probably not Marge, they are more interested in the lush grass in front of you. John greeted our French neighbours with a bonjour. Turned out they were English in a French registered van.

Not wanting to leave Elgol too late in case we encountered too many vehicles travelling down to the harbour we left early. The hill out of the village was serious. Very serious. At least a 20% gradient with two bends. By the time we reached the top Marge’s engine had been revved within an inch of its life. As the road levelled out slightly a group of sheep decided to wander across it, stopping halfway. By now Angela had shaking knees, a pounding heart and could barely breath. She thought her heart was going to stop coming up the hill, John quipped, you sound like you might have just had an orgasm!

Unrelenting heavy rain accompanied us all the way to the ferry at Armdale. As we awaited its arrival the wind speed became a bit of a worry. The crossing to Mallaig looks like it might be a little rough Marge. Oh to be sunning ourselves on a warm beach somewhere without a care. That wouldn’t be us though, not enough drama. We sat in Marge during the forty-five minute crossing. It was so bumpy it felt like we were driving over a heavily potholed road without being in control of the steering wheel. Then things stepped up a notch. The motorhome in front of us began swinging from side to side like a pendulum. Sick bag anyone?

Back on dry land, stomachs settled we retraced our steps of four weeks ago driving back to the Ardnamurchan Peninsula.

At Glenuig we stopped to use the public showers at the very nice village hall at just two pounds each. Bargain. On the interent there is a list of all the showers for public use in Scotland, including the islands. Some are at village halls, others sports centres, at Tobermory on Mull, the marina. We were headed to Ardtoe once again. Coincidentally we were there exactly a month ago. As we travelled the slow narrow road we noticed the green of late summer had been replaced with bronze, yellow and red of autumn. At the side of the road we twice saw deer. What a difference four weeks had made. But Ardtoe looked the same. As we arrived the tide was out and the little fishing boat owned by an English couple who live nearby sat lopsided on the beach.

Ardtoe was introduced to us by a couple we met last year, and we’ve fallen in love with the tiny village and cove. In fact we love the Ardnamurchan peninsula of which some areas are considered to be some of Scotland’s west coast’s best kept secrets. We are pleased we had a chance meeting with a couple who love the area so much they visit it to bird watch several times a year. Settling Marge, we fully waterproofed ourselves and walked out in the now light rain. Along the narrow lane we scanned the verge and amongst the birch trees for edible fungi.

We found plenty that weren’t edible like the pretty red and white spotted ones fairies sit on. The rain halted and pleased to be outside we walked quite a way.

But walking isn’t enough for us. Let’s scramble up this rocky outcrop to check out the view and the setting sun. It was worth it. The views were stunning. Up on a hill opposite four roe deer watched us.

The light fading, reminding us of the season we turned back spotting yet more deer in the trees. Then a young one stood in the road staring at us with interest.

Upon our return to Marge, John spotted another down on the beach. That was fourteen in total. We are loving being so in touch with nature and the wildlife.