Morar Beach car park, Mallaig

A night spent in Marge in Portree wasn't ideal, but at least we were out of the wind. As promised the rain fell heavily this morning, with the forecast not looking so good we decided to change our ferry booking and from tomorrow to later this afternoon and return to Mallaig on the mainland. Before leaving the islands we took showers at the Skye Gym. Not cheap at £6.00 each, but we didn't mind, you having the use of a full wet room with a decent thermostatic mixer shower for as long as you wish.

So shopping and showers all done, we drove back to Armadale, the rain clouds never far away. 

Heavy rain makes for fantastic waterfalls and dramatic scenery, but unfortunately it also means we can't really walk out as it's difficult to dry wet clothes in Marge.

So early evening we were back on the mainland just a few miles from Mallaig at Morar beach. We've been here twice before and both times the weather has been glorious, sadly not so today.

However, the weather did settle for a while, and we were able to walk out along the white sand beach, stopping for some adult fun along the way. Are you ever too old to have a go on a rope swing?

What the internet has to say about the beaches of Morar

The Silver Sands of Morar are a breathtaking, continuous chain of brilliant white-sand beaches interspersed with rocky coves along the west coast of Scotland. Located in Lochaber within the Scottish Highlands—strung along the scenic B8008 coast road between Arisaig and Morar—these beaches are famous for their powder-soft sand (made of crushed quartz and coral) and crystalline, turquoise waters that frequently draw comparisons to the Caribbean.

The spectacular coastline looks directly out onto the Atlantic toward the Inner Hebridean Small Isles of Rum, Eigg, Muck, and Canna, providing some of the most cinematic sunset views in the country.

The Four Main Beaches

While commonly grouped under one title, the "Silver Sands" actually comprise several distinct expanses flanking the tidal mouth and estuary of the River Morar:

Morar Beach & Tougal Beach (Southern Bank): Easily accessible from the main tourist car parks. Tougal Beach boasts a gently sloping shelf of sand facing calmer waters, making it the area's premier spot for safe wild swimming and launching paddleboards or kayaks. The main Morar strand sits right by the river channel.

Bourblach Beach (Northern Bank): Tucked away on the quieter, more remote side of the river. Reached via a boggy but highly scenic walk from Morar village, it offers complete isolation and pristine coastal greenery.

Sgeir Dubh / Black Rock Beach: Punctuated by dark metamorphic rock formations that create an incredible visual contrast with the blindingly white sand, offering a sheltered haven for exploring shallow rock pools.

Camusdarach Beach: Located just a short trek further south down the coast road, this massive crescent beach is physically connected to the network at low tide and features towering sand dunes.

Silver Screen Stardom

If the landscape feels familiar, it is likely because it has played a starring role in cinematic history. The striking white sands and crystalline dunes served as the primary filming location for Bill Forsyth's iconic 1983 comedy-drama Local Hero, starring Burt Lancaster. It also stood in for the historic Highlands backdrop in the 1986 fantasy-action classic Highlander.

What to Do There

Beachcombing & Wading: Low tide uncovers immense sandy flats, linking up tiny islands and exposing fantastic rock pools packed with marine life, ideal for families.

Paddleboarding & Kayaking: Paddling from beach to beach along the estuary is highly popular. The waters are crystal-clear, allowing you to see all the way to the sandy floor below.

Coastal Walking: The area ranks among Britain's finest walking coastlines. You can easily pick up a path from the Walkhighlands Silver Sands Trail Guide to find the secret, secluded pockets of the bay.

Horseback Riding: Local outfits like the Silversands Trekking Centre offer guided horse riding treks directly across the white sands.

Parking & Crowds: Parking is free but highly limited. During peak summer days, the lot fills up quickly, and roadside overflow parking is heavily restricted due to local over-tourism. Visit early in the morning or during the shoulder seasons (spring/autumn) to enjoy the sands in peace.

Getting There: If you aren't driving, the beach is uniquely accessible via public transport. You can ride the world-famous West Highland Line train from Fort William to Morar Station, which leaves you just a short walk from the shoreline.

Portree, Isle of Skye

Some days just seemed wasted. Today was one of those days. After a second disturbed night because of the very strong wind, this morning we got up, dressed, packed up and drove a short distance down the road to Uig village store for hot drinks, and a really awful sausage roll, that contained no meat, but slurry. We know what you're thinking, we thought about it as well. We were near the Fairy Glen, and after vowing we wouldn't start revsiting all the must see spots on Skye, having seen them before, we decided to return here as we'd enjoyed it so much on our first visit.

The sun was out that day, not today, it was grey, rainy and a lot colder than yesterday. It's said, that you should never revisit faces or places, we don't necessarily agree with that, but some occasions like today we did.

The Fairy Glen just didn't seem magical like it did on our first visit. Whilst at the Glen, John climbed up to the high point, Angela couldn't, someone had to take the photograph. A few days ago John commented that if he passed away first Angela would go on to have a 'whale of a time'. As she watched him walk close to the edge of the rock above her, she honestly wasn't thinking about galavanting. Next stop the Quirang, or perhaps not. A road closure meant a detour of an hour and a half. With the wind gusting, blowing clouds laden with rain across the island we decided to visit another time. With sunshine and showers come amazing rainbows, and we've certainly seen many of these in the last few days.

So after yet more driving, stopping at the Bride's Veil Falls for lunch, before moving on past the Old Man of Storr on the Trotternish Ridge and then up to Staffin beach we became very conscious that we needed to find somewhere to hunker down out of tonight's wind.

There was only one place, Portree, so we turned around and retraced our steps, and luckily at Portree there was just one overnight space out of the four available. We don't know what the politics are here in Portree, but for some reason the four original parking spaces which are really too small for motorhomes to park in, and are certainly too close together, no six metre spacing rule for safety here, are all that's available in the large carpark. Why? Portree is the main town on the island, the shops, cafes and restaurants we are sure would welcome more trade from overnight vans. Nearly everywhere on Skye parking had to be paid for, £3.00 minimum for four hours parking at the Fairy Glen this morning, most people require less than an hour. On the internet, pricing here for visitors is referred to 'as the Scottish price'! Because they are so hot on ticketing vehicles in parking areas  here, Angela was worried that Marge would not be considered a campervan in line with the signage, because of her tent style pop up roof, so we asked a parking attendant who said she was a 'grey area'. Charming. After inspecting Marge, he reluctantly agreed on this occasion she could park overnight. Funny she's a campervan when we have to pay at campsites. Some days are not so much fun, and the gusting wind these last few days has been a real spoiler. But let's look at the positives, some beautiful sunshine, stunning views, fantastic rainbows arching through the skies, and tonight an excellent Chinese takeaway from the Fat Panda nearby, oh and a brush with a few sheep earlier.

So tonight, we are not really where we would have liked to have parked up, in a town, very close to our Italian neighbours, (two vans), and adjacent to the recycling bins. Marge deserves better, but the wind is still blowing strong from the south and here in Portree we are sheltered, so beggars can't be choosers. Tomorrow, we will look into our onward travels, unsettled weather is rolling in from the Atlantic, so probably best to start thinking about making tracks. One thing we've learnt today, sometimes it's best not to revisit some places, because time changes environments, people and you.

Unimog Campervan, that would have to be Big Marge!

Uig ferry terminal, Isle of Skye

Angela commented yesterday on how lucky we have been of late with  weather, little rain, and wind. Well done Angela, in the early hours of this morning the rain drove into Marge, the wind gusted to goodness knows what speed, all in all we were a little unnerved. Come daybreak, the rain had ceased, the wind still strong, felt, more comfortable. The sky was a perfect blue, the views towards the cullin mountains were amazing.

The sheep gathered around Marge, doing what sheep do. The spot was just idyllic, and so peaceful. An Australian lady parked nearby, impressed by our set up, who isn't? We posed for photographs with Marge, before catching up on some washing, taking advantage of the wind to dry our clothes. Today, the last day of September, where has the last few months gone? This year we've moved house, spent three weeks in Scotland including a trip to Barra, returned home for five days, driven to the south of Morocco, come home for six weeks and then set off again for Scotland. And guess what, we're already thinking of next year's trips, and of course there will be at least one more this year. Visitors to the isle of Skye noticeably less now, we decided to drive to the main town of Portree, stopping on the way for a refreshment stop at Sligachan by the waterfall.

Our reason for visiting Portree was to walk the circular Scorrybreac trail. Just under two miles it is classed as moderate.

Today is a little more challenging because of the wind. It was muddy after last night's rain, but still passable. The panoramic views across to the island of Raasay and distant mountains were stunning. Walking the uneven ground along the coast is  nothing compared to the steep rocky zig zag climb back up to the road. We've done this walk before, so we knew what to expect. A decent walk deserves a reward, two ice creams please. The strong wind has been unrelenting all day, despite this it has been very warm, so we didn't mind so much. We did however mind a lot when we drove to tonight's overnight spot. Being up high, set back from the cliff edge, with spectacular views, it was a no go for us, we couldn't risk Marge being battered for a second night.

So after some deliberation we dropped down lower to the Uig ferry terminal where we've stayed overnight a couple of times before. The wind is still strong, but easing slightly. The ferry from here goes to and from the outer hebridean islands of Harris and Lewis. We visited them both a few years ago and would like to return, but that trip is for another time. We didn't envy the people boarding tonight's crossing, it would probably be more than a little uncomfortable. Looking at the weather forecast we will probably stay another night or two on Skye. Our flu jabs are booked for October 22nd so we have to be home by then. So Marge lets make the next couple of weeks really count!

Woodland Inkcap, not edible.