Morar Beach Car Park, near Mallaig.

There is much spectacular scenery and many tranquil places in Scotland, to us Ardtoe is one of them. Always beautiful, always quiet. But we've stayed here a few times now, so after taking advantage of the unlimited fresh water available by the old fisherman's shed to catch up on our washing, we decided to move a little nearer to Mallaig. But every stopping place was either too near the road, or already occupied by a person living in a van or caravan. Perhaps we should have stayed at Ardtoe. Fortunately John discovered that the beach car park at Morar allowed vans to stay overnight at a cost of ten pounds. 

Ten pounds well spent we think. Arriving just after lunch we waited patiently for someone to leave then bagged a space. Toilets open twenty-four hours, always a bonus, and a walk through some trees to a beautiful vast beach of silver sand made us glad we'd made the decision to move. 

All day Muddy Marge has been admired. Cool camper. Cool truck. And from a five year old boy. I like your cool car. It's official, she's cool.

Many people ask us where we're journeying to. We're not sure. Perhaps our answer should be, no destination, is the destination.

Ardtoe, Ardnamurchan

Early this morning all was quiet. No wind. No rain. No bleating sheep. No high pitched, sharp, incisive calls from the normally noisy oyster catchers. They must have sensed the presence of the white tailed eagle which circled and then settled itself on a rock a little offshore.

Then a cacophony of noise from all, sounding the alert. John was cooking his omelette at the time. Caught up in the moment he quickly secreted his hens eggs away. Behave, it's the poor sheep who need to worry, their lambs are on the menu. 

Earlier Angela had taken a walk out through hundreds of iris on the point of flowering, the vast carpet of yellow that would appear would rival a field of French sunflowers or a English meadow of buttery yellow buttercups. 

But today was the day to leave the beautiful scenery and amazing wildlife of Mull behind. Once again we drove into Tobermory, managing to secure a space on the ten vehicle one o' clock ferry to Kilchoan on Ardnamurchan. Problems with the loading ramp meant we'd have to reverse off, turning part way up the slipway. 'I will guide you, don't worry', said the crew member. Well that'll be O.K. then. And it was. Still a little unnerving though.

Ardnamurchan feels like the forgotten area of Scotland. Out on a limb, it tends to be passed by as visitors head straight for the Great Glen and Fort William. An area we'd rather avoid. But this little Scottish jewel is not for the faint hearted. The roads are particularly narrow with lots of twist and turns and blind summits and sheer drops. Not an area for the 'panic vans, as Angela likes to call the hire campervans. But the area never fails to delight us and we were very glad to be back here.

The little bay we are staying across the road from at Ardtoe is literally at the end of the road. There are three other vans here and a German couple who this evening have set off with their camping gear and inflatable kayak to camp overnight on one of the nearby beaches inaccessible by vehicle. A micro adventure. Why not? As the saying goes. ' You only regret what you don't do in life'.

Loch Na Keal, Isle of Mull

Staying overnight in Tobermory had been the right decision. Despite being sheltered by the buildings we could still hear the roar of the strong wind as it blew down the sound of Mull. This morning, cold and damp the coloured houses alongside the harbour made for brightness amongst the gloom. We couldn't believe a few days ago when we were here we'd dried our towels and T-shirts laid on the Land Rover bonnet in the afternoon sun. Today however, two coats, scarves and hats were required. Unless of course you're a Scottish postman, where shorts and polo shorts were the dress code of the day. Whilst we breakfasted, once again inside, a cruise ship appeared in the harbour.

Within half an hour it left, it's passengers probably wishing they'd taken a Caribbean cruise instead. Eventually the rain abated and despite the gloomy conditions we walked out along the harbour side stopping at the Mull Museum. Free entry so of course we stepped inside. The tiny museum turned out to be very interesting. Who'd have thought extra policemen were recruited on the island during the war to check pigeons for messages. Whilst we've been on Mull we have seen one police vehicle and no ambulances, even when Angela attended Craignure hospital. All the time we've been on the island we've felt very safe. What a difference from our home town of Poole. 

Much of the morning had been taken up with John trying to register his drone. But we managed another walk before leaving up to the viewpoint where a robin befriended us, following us all the way back to the car park. So sweet. 

We have now been away from home for two weeks. Our total spend on overnight stops and showers has been £80.00. We're happy with that. And you won't be surprised to hear we've decided to stay on the island another night. The forecast tomorrow is for a better day. Fingers crossed. So we'll definitely head over to the mainland. Probably. 

Tobermory, Isle of Mull

We love the evenings when we can sit out and watch the sun go down, and last night we did just that. We were also rewarded with the sighting of an otter in the nearby water and a white tailed eagle flying over head shortly before we retired to bed. And to top it all, our German neighbour said Muddy Marge was beautiful. So many compliments.

But this morning the weather had changed. The beautiful clear weather of yesterday gone to another land. A cloud of wet billowing grey curtains hung amongst the mountains. It was miserable. We breakfasted inside for the first time this trip, suddenly aware of our slightly tight living conditions.

But the weather was an improving picture and soon we were able to take a long walk out hoping to spot more otters. No luck there, but we smiled at the sighting of four families of geese staying close for safety for fear of a predator taking one of the goslings.

The camouflaged sheep who we awarded first prize for fancy dress, and at the little lamb who appeared to be stuck amongst some rocks whilst it's mother on the hill above bleated frantically. After John released the lamb it sauntered of with an air of, I wasn't  really stuck, just pretending.

Because of the miserable weather forecast we decided to stay at the loch. After all where else could we sit on our loo and enjoy such a beautiful view. But around five thirty whilst Angela was researching park ups on the Isle of Skye she noticed a weather warning for tonight for winds in excess of 40 mph. Checking the forecast for Mull she discovered the same wind speeds would occur here also, and not winds of 14 mph which showed on this mornings weather forecast.

So we packed up and drove into Tobermory where we parked up with other campers by the harbour and treated ourselves to a fish supper from a fish and chips shop that will sell you a meat pie plain, or battered! Whilst John waited for the food he noticed a pallet over in the corner with sacks of potatoes stacked on it. A notice on the wall above read, 'shush, the potatoes are sleeping'. Love it. Whilst John sorted out our food Angela chatted to a man who guess what, loved the Land Rover. Turned out he was camping next to us at The Red Squirrel Campsite at Ballachulish whilst he waited for a house purchase to go through here on Mull. He moved in last Wednesday. What were the chances of us meeting again?

Tomorrow after stocking up on groceries, and once again using the showers at the marina we will take the ferry across to Ardnamurchan. We'll be sad to leave Mull but have already discussed returning after we've been to the islands of Skye, Harris and Lewis.

Tiger moth caterpillar.

Loch Na Keal, Isle of Mull (day 2)

There are not many days that start more perfect than today. This morning the sun was up early in a cloudless sky. The air warm and apart from distant birdsong, almost silent. And Angela felt a lot better. So all good. However, the forecast for tomorrow and the next few days is not good. Heavy rain, oh dear. We will have to make sure we are very organized in our very compact living space which we share with  the Boxio.

Today we decided to stay at the Loch. Why wouldn't we, it's beautiful here, and the driving on the island is so challenging it was good for John to take a day off. So this morning we walked along the shore to the left, spotting yet more oyster catchers nests and this afternoon we walked along the shore to the right, stopping to check on the raven sat on it's nest, unhappy at our presence.

On the beach John found his ultimate prize, the skull and antlers of a deer, albeit small, but antlers. Don't worry Marge, he won't be fixing them to your bull bar. Well hope fully not. When we return home they will take pride of place on John's shelf of curiosities. After lunch, a couple pulled up in a very smart Land Rover Discovery. Could they have a photograph? Of course, oh, not us. You guessed it the words out there's a celebrity on the island. From Skipton in Yorkshire, they invited us to call in if we were passing. How nice.

So a quiet, relaxing, productive day for us today. With the change in the weather, we made sure our washing was up to day. The wind whipped across the loch blowing our smalls like semaphore flags. Further along a Dutch couple were also drying washing. Goodness knows what messages we were sending to each other.

We will assess the weather situation in the morning. We are not far from Lochbuie and will probably return there. It is just so peaceful here on Mull, we can't describe it. We're not ready to leave just yet, as it seems are many others. Everyday vehicles pass by we have seen at another location in the last few days. Another fire on the beach tonight, probably our last for a while. The message our smoke signals will be sending is, please don't rain too much.

Loch Na Keal, Isle of Mull

What a beautiful evening yesterday. The sunniest and warmest so far. Next to us on the camping area were a young couple in a VW Transporter hire van. Not just the young couple, but a baby and toddler as well. At seven o' clock, the trials and tribulations of putting young children to bed began. We laughed a little at the shenanigans remembering with fondness those bygone days. The excuse, 'it's not dark yet' still applies, and made us laugh. Just before ten when we retired all was quiet. Good luck tomorrow night parents, when you have to go through it all once again.

This morning another beautiful start to the day. Barely a wisp of cloud in the baby blue sky. Mid morning two Australian registered vehicles pulled in unaware that it was not a parking area. Unloaded from the vehicle three labradors, chairs and parasols. The dogs left to wander while us and the other campers all watched thinking the same thought. Will they or won't they pick up? After a while they did. For goodness sake people.

Today we decided to drive to Tobermory, called a village here, but to us it's the big town. The drive over the hills was once again challenging. Nothing new there then. And of course it was during that moment we received a telephone call. House viewing at the weekend? Couldn't say no to that could we. We're desperate to sell.

Tobermory is beautiful, more so in the light of the afternoon sun. We did a 'big shop' at the little Co-Op and used the showers at the marina. Two pounds for seven minutes of blissful hot water. 

Just before Salen we saw the hulks of three fishing boats.

The weather today has been stunning and we decided to head back over to nearby Loch Na Keal for another night. The oyster catchers nest still has three eggs in it, but the plovers only has three instead of four. Sadly it looks like someone has taken one. Once again we will cook on the shore whilst enjoying the extraordinary views. 

Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull

This morning a low slung mist topped the mountains. The mirror smooth waters of the loch reflected the panorama that surrounded them. Even the sheep were quiet, mesmerized. Then the moment was gone. The calling of the birds woke the day. On the shore the oyster catcher and plover sat on their nests. What a perfect start to a new day, and what a contrast to early morning yesterday on the Fidden Farm Campsite. Queues for the loo, jostling at the wash hand basins where morning regimes of applying 'ones' moisture correctly were taking place. 'Just slap it on love'. 

Our morning regime is far more relaxed. What a fantastic product the Boxio compost loo has turned out to be. Known to us now as 'the boxio', like an old friend Angela loves it. Easy to use and clean.

Grocery shops on the island are few and far between and also expensive. In need of a few items we diverted to Salen. Keeping Mull supplied with supplies is vital, and two days ago a couple we met had had to their ferry from Oban cancelled because space was needed for the lorry's. 

Today we wanted to visit the waterfall on the road to Calgary Bay. We'd made sandwiches which we ate by the fall. A couple called across to us apologizing for disturbing our lunch, but perhaps the presence of four golden eagles, one sat on a pole near us, could excuse their interruption.

The drive onwards to Calgary Bay was challenging. Steep, narrow with blind summits and switchback bends and oncoming vehicles thrown into panic as they saw us approaching. The views was lovely though.

Late afternoon we sited Muddy Marge in the corner of the small free camping area, with public loos opposite. Looks like the boxio might receive some respite. Walked out across the beach and sat a while in the warm sun. Back at the site we lent our tick removing card to a French cyclist who we think we may see again when we reach the outer Hebrides, as his trip takes him from Mull to Barra to the Uists and then onto Harris and Lewis. That's some cycling trip. We however will be staying on Mull a while longer now. It's so peaceful, everyone is friendly, the flora fauna and wildlife so amazing that we're just not ready to leave just yet.