Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (Day 4)

We decided to return to the mainland after being on Mull a week now. The ferries here book up really quickly, especially now we're in the main holiday season. We managed to secure a space for Marge on the ten o'clock sailing to Oban on Thursday. Once again today, the weather has been kind to us. We treated ourselves to coffee and homemade sausage rolls from the cafe which a cheeky Chaffinch helped us to finish, then took a walk out to Laggan Sands.

Passing Lochbuie house a lamb skipped over to the fence bleating frantically. Every time John tried to stroke it shying away. As we walked on it called after us. We decided it wanted to break free, and needed our help!

The tide turning as we approached the beach we could see the highland coos sat on the sand. A perfect day for topping up their tan. The receding water exposed sea urchins, tiny silver slivering eels and miniature coral pink crabs. Stopping to photograph the cows John suddenly realized he'd lost his car keys! Hadn't we been here before? Yes. At Uig on Skye just before we were due to board a ferry to North Uist on the outer Hebrides. What were we doing tomorrow? Oh yes, boarding a ferry to Oban. We scoured the beach, trying to try race our steps, our footprints now faded in the wet sand. A telephone call to the cafe at Lochbuie enquiring if they'd been handed in there earlier resulted in a 'no'. Retracing our steps back to Marge two pairs of eyes scanned the stony path, smooth billiard green grass and sand amongst the rocky outcrops. Nothing. Good job Angela was carrying the spare keys. But John couldn't settle and returned to search again, stopping to ask a family out walking if they'd found them. 'Yes', they were on top of a post by their car. What were the chances. Now we could relax, or could we. England still had to beat Holland in the Euros. Thankfully they did. The evening had resulted in a good result all round.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (Day 3)

Marge looked a treat today after her wash with L'Oreal Men's Expert Shower Gel. She also looks a lot smarter with the gas bottle holder removed from her rear. Because, our outside cooking in Scotland has been over wood fires on the beach, we have not used our gas grill at all, and have decided it won't be brought along on future trips freeing up much needed storage space inside. Clever John, sold the almost full Camping gas 907 bottle to another couple staying here. Anyone travelling in the north of Scotland and on the islands needs to be aware that there are three things to be aware of. Firstly buying 907 cylinders of gas is almost impossible (Glasgow & Inverness only). Secondly, fuel in your vehicle, and thirdly enough food. If you're driving the NC500 don't expect too many large supermarkets. 

(A Dunkerque Little ship Chico, one owned by Sir Malcolm Cambell, then named Blue Bird)

The weather was beautiful. A perfect day to drive over to Tobermory. As with a drive anywhere on Mull a few miles takes forever. The town was so much busier now the holiday season is under way. Angela loves the town, and Marge probably does as well.

There are always at least six other Land Rover Defenders parked up here. Settling her next to one of them, play nice Marge, we walked into town once again stopping for a fish and chip lunch. Today unbelievably was a shorts wearing day. But before we took the three mile round walk to the lighthouse Angela changed our of them. Ticks are rife up here, so best to take care.

Then the long drive back to Lochbuie. As always the oncoming traffic was in a rush, ignorant of the passing place system. At one point a van almost ran into the rear of a car waiting for us to pass by. The screech of braking tyres and the acrid smell of rubber on tarmac filled the air. Hopefully the driver will slow down now. Probably not. 

Back at Lochbuie a holiday tall ship was at anchor. A little rain fell and a rainbow of pink purple coloured by the setting sun arched across the headland, and a wild fire sky behind Marge coloured the waters of the loch. So dramatic, people left their vans to photograph it. Whatever the weather, this beautiful spot just keeps on giving.

On our walk to the Lighthouse at Tobermory we felt we were being watched!

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (Day 2)

This morning the sun was out! So why move? So we didn't. Instead we spent our morning washing clothes and Marge. Although the water here is non potable, so not for drinking, it's perfectly good enough for washing clothes, and land rovers. Chores finished by midday, we awarded ourselves coffee and cake at the cafe, and bought sausages supplied by a local farm for tonight's BBQ. 

Fuelled up with calories, we packed lunch food and took a walk out along the rocky track around the loch. Last time we'd walked out here we spotted an otter, so we were hopeful we'd see another today. Sadly they were Illusive. Never mind, we had a nice walk out. Angela even allowed John to walk up a small waterfall to take a look around the corner, after she'd carried out a risk assessment of course.

The weather today has been glorious. Warm enough for shorts! At only 17 c it was 'roasting', as the Scots say. What a change to be able to cook and sit outside this evening. Even the midges agreed!

Evening meal of Cheese and Onion Pork sausages cooked on the BBQ.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

Before leaving Uisken beach we gave Marge a tidy and a clean. That's the joy of fine weather, we were able to utilize all the outside space around us including the table next to us. A lady who lives right by the beach was walking her dog when we left. She remembered us from the last time we stayed here on May 16th. We couldn't believe we have travelled to so many islands and een so much since then. It seemed like only yesterday. After discussing where we were heading today, which was Carsaig, she told us how 'interesting' the drive down was. 'Just make sure you note where the last passing place was'. Twice she said, ' you'll be fine in your truck'. It doesn't take a lot for Angela to become anxious, she was now! The road down to Carsaig seemed fine to us, passing places a plenty, and then suddenly it wasn't. Narrow, steep, a drop down on one side, boggy verges and no passing places! Just when we thought it couldn't get any worse, a steep descent down with bends. Blind bends and still no passing places. Angela was a nervous wreck, and glad she wasn't driving. On park4night the overnight spot by the old stone pier promised sunsets and seals. We walked out through sodden peaty ground, over a rocky beach, crossing fresh water streaming down from waterfalls.

(Underside of a Sea Urchin stranded on the beach, consequently popped into a rockpool)

The view across to Jura and Islay were lovely and we discussed how lucky we were to be able to be here with this view at this moment. We talked about the visitors we'd seen whilst we were in Glencoe and on Skye. Their trips organized to take in the 'sights', never really seeing the other side of Scotland. We have enjoyed talking to the local people. Everyone has been friendly. At Lochbuie we've become friendly with a man called Bob whose building his own house.

Yes, we're back at Lochbuie! There are a lot more people staying here now. We were surprised our regular spot under the trees was taken by a small tent, staying in it a family of six! But we didn't mind, the space next to it is better when the weather's good, which it has been for a few days now. To think we nearly gave up on Scotland all those weeks ago. As for Lochbuie, Angela asked Bob what the winters were like at Lochbuie? 'Wet and dark', he replied. Suddenly Lochbuie didn't sound so idyllic. 

Uisken Beach, Isle of Mull

Words cannot describe how beautiful the view was this morning. As the clouds slid by and the sun shifted casting shadows across the landscape and the loch, it was as if we were viewing nature's television.

We were in otter country. Angela walked out early in search of them, but only the ever present squabbling oyster catchers were up and about. That was until we left. 

A short distance along the road we spotted an Otter crossing. Why did the Otter cross the road? Because of the fresh water flowing down off the mountains before entering the loch. Otters don't drink salt water, and they like to bathe in fresh water. That's why there's more chance of spotting them at low tide where rivers run into main bodies of water.

Our first visit today was to Knochvolagan Beach. It has to be one of the islands secret places. Fortunately Angela likes to read up on the areas we are visiting. Like her mother, Marge, she loves a guide book. As we approached Fionnphort, the island of Iona seemed within touching distance on this bright morning. How long have we waited for the weather to settle? Had summer eventually arrived in Scotland? The drive down to Knochvolagan took us through farmland to a closed gate. Should we go through it? Angela checked trip advisor. Yes, open the gate, drive to the farm and park in the paddock by the farmhouse. So we did, greeted on our arrival by sheep, cockerels, hens, and a goose. What a crazy place, chaotic and charming.

The tractors and vehicles no longer of use left to break down amongst the landscape. A ten minute walk, took us down to the beach.

The tide now low we were able able to walk across to the tiny island of Erraid just one square mile in size. It is the smallest, driest, sunniest island on Scotland's west coast. As we walked down the precarious rocky track down to the beach we caught sight of one of the prettiest beaches we'd ever seen. O.M.G. It was stunning. Swathes of bright white sand and blue green crystal clear water. Paradise in Scotland.

On the beach sheep and cattle rummaged through the seaweed, stopping to give us a look of contempt as we photographed them. We sat on a seat, dedicated to a lady who'd passed away.

Angela commented, if she were to die at that moment, what a beautiful view be your last memory. She's cheerful like that. A few weeks ago we were in this area, and enjoyed a meal at the Creel Seafood Bar.

So why not have another. Whilst eating, the sun burning our faces, we wondered about staying away a little longer. Tomorrow we will check the weather forecast and make a decision.

Today has been a lovely day. We saw an otter, visited an awesome beach, ate a fantastic lunch, returned to a beautiful overnight spot on the coast, managed to wash a lot of clothes and England beat Switzerland in the Euros, thank God!