Drummond Hill, Kenmore

A beautiful start to the day today, the early morning sun showcasing the beautiful green palette of the mountains. Despite the beautiful view, the noise of traffic spoilt the moment. Would we ever become used to so much noise again? Probably. This trip we have tried to slow the pace, driving less and spending time taking in an area and the views, and talking to many people. Tonight is our sixtieth blog, and as we always say, it's not so much the places you see, but the people you meet along the way that you associate with those places. We love this travelling life, ( except when it's wet and cold). We love the fact it is so sociable.

Today we drove towards Aberfeldey, stopping for lunch in the pretty village of Killin.

(Mountain Rescue team on the wall above the village shop in Killin)

 The scenery was stunning. The traffic fast moving. The driving of some of the vehicles very dangerous. Why are people in such a hurry? We can't say it enough. Oh, how we miss the islands! We were going to stay in Aberfeldey, but seven miles before was another Forestry Commission stopover at Kenmore. So here we are.

A walk in the woods, then afternoon coffee down in the village. John happy to be able to pick wild strawberries and raspberries. We are loving being so in touch with nature, and marvelled at the beautiful purple flowers of the spiky thistles now starting to reveal themselves. 

The village of Kenmore is very beautiful, though it is almost entirely a holiday resort with a single owner.

We are about to begin the last week of this trip. So we need to make the next week count and choose wisely where we visit. We are not looking forward to returning home, but knowing we'll be off again in Marge at the end of August makes it not feel so bad.

Strome Hill, near Inverlochy

We were up at seven this morning. All was quiet at the loch, the other campers still asleep, the sheep absent and the oyster catchers not yet in full voice. We were going to miss Lochbuie. The calmness, beautiful views, the sheep baaing loudly right next to Marge whilst we tried to sleep and particularly the oyster catchers, whose screeching is much amplified now they have young to control. The early morning sunlight picked out the detail on the headland, and with one last look we were away. Angela sad as she always is when she leaves here. Yesterday John bought a small print of Lochbuie for Angela, so when she's back at home she'll be able to look at it with fondness. Our early start meant Marge was at the front of the queue for the ferry. It felt strange to be leaving Mull, but we can't stay away from home for ever, so now we must begin our slow journey home.

Back in Oban, we were launched into chaos and noise. We'd become islanders over the past few weeks, used to calm, tranquil slow living. Shopping in Tesco Angela's head ached. Too many people. Too much noise. Too much choice. We exited as quickly as possible.

A band of fine weather is supposed to be hanging about over central Scotland, so we're going to be heading east. After an early start this morning, we only wanted to drive a short way today, so we decided to stop at one of the Forestry and land sites. Strome Hill is set amongst beautiful woodland with a circular walk to the waterfall and back.

(tasty wild Blueberries)

John spotted a few bright yellow funnel shaped Chanterelle mushrooms which he brought back for tomorrow's breakfast omelette. It feels strange now not to be by the water. Knowing we won't be lulled to sleep by lapping water and unruly wildlife. Instead we are in the mountains, road noise in the background. After returning from our walk we realised the other van here belongs to a couple we met at Ardtoe at the end of May. What were the chances? They're on their way to Oban, we're heading east from where they've come. We talked for a very long time until the lure of the venison and bacon burgers from Lochbuie tempted us. It was great to be able to cook and eat outside. Just a shame we couldn't share the evening with the oyster catchers.

Peppery Milk Caps, don't try eating these.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (Day 4)

We decided to return to the mainland after being on Mull a week now. The ferries here book up really quickly, especially now we're in the main holiday season. We managed to secure a space for Marge on the ten o'clock sailing to Oban on Thursday. Once again today, the weather has been kind to us. We treated ourselves to coffee and homemade sausage rolls from the cafe which a cheeky Chaffinch helped us to finish, then took a walk out to Laggan Sands.

Passing Lochbuie house a lamb skipped over to the fence bleating frantically. Every time John tried to stroke it shying away. As we walked on it called after us. We decided it wanted to break free, and needed our help!

The tide turning as we approached the beach we could see the highland coos sat on the sand. A perfect day for topping up their tan. The receding water exposed sea urchins, tiny silver slivering eels and miniature coral pink crabs. Stopping to photograph the cows John suddenly realized he'd lost his car keys! Hadn't we been here before? Yes. At Uig on Skye just before we were due to board a ferry to North Uist on the outer Hebrides. What were we doing tomorrow? Oh yes, boarding a ferry to Oban. We scoured the beach, trying to try race our steps, our footprints now faded in the wet sand. A telephone call to the cafe at Lochbuie enquiring if they'd been handed in there earlier resulted in a 'no'. Retracing our steps back to Marge two pairs of eyes scanned the stony path, smooth billiard green grass and sand amongst the rocky outcrops. Nothing. Good job Angela was carrying the spare keys. But John couldn't settle and returned to search again, stopping to ask a family out walking if they'd found them. 'Yes', they were on top of a post by their car. What were the chances. Now we could relax, or could we. England still had to beat Holland in the Euros. Thankfully they did. The evening had resulted in a good result all round.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (Day 3)

Marge looked a treat today after her wash with L'Oreal Men's Expert Shower Gel. She also looks a lot smarter with the gas bottle holder removed from her rear. Because, our outside cooking in Scotland has been over wood fires on the beach, we have not used our gas grill at all, and have decided it won't be brought along on future trips freeing up much needed storage space inside. Clever John, sold the almost full Camping gas 907 bottle to another couple staying here. Anyone travelling in the north of Scotland and on the islands needs to be aware that there are three things to be aware of. Firstly buying 907 cylinders of gas is almost impossible (Glasgow & Inverness only). Secondly, fuel in your vehicle, and thirdly enough food. If you're driving the NC500 don't expect too many large supermarkets. 

(A Dunkerque Little ship Chico, one owned by Sir Malcolm Cambell, then named Blue Bird)

The weather was beautiful. A perfect day to drive over to Tobermory. As with a drive anywhere on Mull a few miles takes forever. The town was so much busier now the holiday season is under way. Angela loves the town, and Marge probably does as well.

There are always at least six other Land Rover Defenders parked up here. Settling her next to one of them, play nice Marge, we walked into town once again stopping for a fish and chip lunch. Today unbelievably was a shorts wearing day. But before we took the three mile round walk to the lighthouse Angela changed our of them. Ticks are rife up here, so best to take care.

Then the long drive back to Lochbuie. As always the oncoming traffic was in a rush, ignorant of the passing place system. At one point a van almost ran into the rear of a car waiting for us to pass by. The screech of braking tyres and the acrid smell of rubber on tarmac filled the air. Hopefully the driver will slow down now. Probably not. 

Back at Lochbuie a holiday tall ship was at anchor. A little rain fell and a rainbow of pink purple coloured by the setting sun arched across the headland, and a wild fire sky behind Marge coloured the waters of the loch. So dramatic, people left their vans to photograph it. Whatever the weather, this beautiful spot just keeps on giving.

On our walk to the Lighthouse at Tobermory we felt we were being watched!