Uisken Beach, Isle of Mull

Words cannot describe how beautiful the view was this morning. As the clouds slid by and the sun shifted casting shadows across the landscape and the loch, it was as if we were viewing nature's television.

We were in otter country. Angela walked out early in search of them, but only the ever present squabbling oyster catchers were up and about. That was until we left. 

A short distance along the road we spotted an Otter crossing. Why did the Otter cross the road? Because of the fresh water flowing down off the mountains before entering the loch. Otters don't drink salt water, and they like to bathe in fresh water. That's why there's more chance of spotting them at low tide where rivers run into main bodies of water.

Our first visit today was to Knochvolagan Beach. It has to be one of the islands secret places. Fortunately Angela likes to read up on the areas we are visiting. Like her mother, Marge, she loves a guide book. As we approached Fionnphort, the island of Iona seemed within touching distance on this bright morning. How long have we waited for the weather to settle? Had summer eventually arrived in Scotland? The drive down to Knochvolagan took us through farmland to a closed gate. Should we go through it? Angela checked trip advisor. Yes, open the gate, drive to the farm and park in the paddock by the farmhouse. So we did, greeted on our arrival by sheep, cockerels, hens, and a goose. What a crazy place, chaotic and charming.

The tractors and vehicles no longer of use left to break down amongst the landscape. A ten minute walk, took us down to the beach.

The tide now low we were able able to walk across to the tiny island of Erraid just one square mile in size. It is the smallest, driest, sunniest island on Scotland's west coast. As we walked down the precarious rocky track down to the beach we caught sight of one of the prettiest beaches we'd ever seen. O.M.G. It was stunning. Swathes of bright white sand and blue green crystal clear water. Paradise in Scotland.

On the beach sheep and cattle rummaged through the seaweed, stopping to give us a look of contempt as we photographed them. We sat on a seat, dedicated to a lady who'd passed away.

Angela commented, if she were to die at that moment, what a beautiful view be your last memory. She's cheerful like that. A few weeks ago we were in this area, and enjoyed a meal at the Creel Seafood Bar.

So why not have another. Whilst eating, the sun burning our faces, we wondered about staying away a little longer. Tomorrow we will check the weather forecast and make a decision.

Today has been a lovely day. We saw an otter, visited an awesome beach, ate a fantastic lunch, returned to a beautiful overnight spot on the coast, managed to wash a lot of clothes and England beat Switzerland in the Euros, thank God!

Kilfinichen, Isle of Mull

Would this morning be our last morning at Lochbuie. Who knows, we still have a few more nights here on Mull. Today though we wanted to visit the Aros waterfall. We have driven by the parking for it many times as it is just on the outskirts of Tobermory. After the heavy rain yesterday we were expecting it to be stunning. We were not disappointed. We could hear the power of the water as soon as we stepped out of Marge. Despite the roar of the water it seemed tranquil amongst the wooded area that surrounded the falls.

Tobermory however was not tranquil. A cruise ship lay at anchor outside the harbour and a huge number of its passengers were in the town.

We were in town purely to once again shower and food shop. We watched as the passengers queued at the marina waiting for the tenders to return them to the ship. We decided cruising wasn't for us. Marge meets all our needs. Rough and ready!

Tonight we'd planned to stop over down at another of our favourite spots on the island, Loch Na Keal. But upon our arrival we were surprised at just how windy it was. The cloud hung low obscuring most of the mountains and it felt bleak and unwelcoming. So we drove on stopping at Tiroran Community Forest where they've created five pitches for campervans to stay overnight at a cost of ten pounds.

 Effectively, it's an area where pine trees have been cleared and they now want to make use of the land. After a walk around, Angela of course having to use the compost toilet, if only to compare with our Boxio, we decided it felt a little remote and perhaps exposed if the wind got up. So on we drove and found a nice little spot opposite Loch Scridain. It's the quietess place we've ever stayed. Not a baa of a lamb, a call of a bird, no rustling of ferns or trees from the wind. We feel totally detached from the real world.

Thank goodness. The result of yesterday's general election has pleased some, disappointed others. As with any contest there is always only one winner. You can't please all of the people, all of the time. We are hoping that house sales will now improve, and that our house will sell shortly. After spending two months away in many peaceful places we know Poole is not the place for us to live. Bank of England, Interest rate cut in August please. Let's get houses sold!

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (Day 2)

At two o' clock this morning Angela wasn't happy. The wind was blowing hard and had changed direction slightly so we were no longer head onto it. So we put the roof down and decamped to the downstairs bed. Outside distressed lambs called for their mother's. It was a wild night. So first thing this morning we moved Marge to a spot under the trees. Sorted! The trees broke the brunt of the wind and Marge barely quivered. Of course setting the bed up downstairs made for difficult dressing this morning. John stepped outside, and right on cue a 'Rabbies' tour bus pulled in by the cafe. Did they catch sight of a man with his 'wee bagpipes out'? If so, a photo probably went straight onto Instagram!

Breakfast for John included a nice big field mushroom picked yesterday, but some other funghi, Lilac Oysterling, Shaggy Scalycap and some Witches Butter went uneaten.

Despite the strengthening winds the chasing clouds exposed the sun. The weather cycle for the day set. Wind, rain, sun. The waters of the loch normally calm and unobtrusive rolled onto the shore pounding the rocks and sucking at the gravel. Dodging the showers we've managed to walk out a few times today, never straying too far.

The nearby waterfall roared as a torrent of water drained from the mountains tumbling, foaming and spurting over the rocks on its way down to the loch. This area is still beautiful though, even in terrible weather. We feel sorry for the sheep, shorn for the summer. How they'd probably love to be wearing their thick woolly coats today. We hunkered down, the animals and birds hunkered down. Remind us, it is July isn't it? Late afternoon braving the elements the chaffinches called by. Hopping onto our strep in search of food for their young. How could we ignore them. 

Tomorrow we will look into booking a return ferry to Oban. Probably on Tuesday. It will be our twenty first ferry on this trip. Today, due to adverse weather conditions many sailings have been cancelled. Tomorrow's weather is looking better and the strong wind gone. So we will move to another area on the island. Meanwhile let's hope John's bagpipes haven't gone viral on the internet....

We were visited again by the Lochbuie Chaffinches

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

An early start today as we wanted to take the ferry over to Kintyre before it became to windy.

At Tarbert we stopped for coffee and to decide exactly where we should head to, as the forecast until late afternoon tomorrow is terrible. But we were distracted by three young American cycle tourists and of course we just talked with them about cycle touring. We left them to head to a hostel in Campbeltown, and us to drive up to Oban away from the worst of the weather. As promised the rain persisted. So much rain is probably responsible for the road subsidence and land slips here. At one point we had to follow a convoy vehicle as the road was reduced to a single lane.

Early afternoon we were on a sailing to Mull. 

The ferry now noticeably busier than last time. We sat opposite a couple of ladies who'd been in Edinburgh yesterday attending a garden party at Holyrood House. This year celebrates two hundred years of the RNLI a charity these ladies have been collecting for over forty years. They'd seen the King and various other members of the royal family. We were shown the photographs taken at the event, but they played it down a little. One of the women telling us when she was younger the Royal Yacht Britannia used to drop anchor right in front of her house on Stornaway ( Isle of Lewis). They also made us smile when we discussed the terrible weather, telling us they'd 'not had a chance to bring out their summer clothes'. We've been told summer will start mid July in Scotland. That's good to know, we'll be back in England!

Arriving on Mull we headed straight to Tobermory to take a shower and fill out bellies with fish and chips. We felt better for both experiences. We'd intended to stay overnight in the town but the wind will be at 40 plus miles per hour first thing tomorrow so we crossed to the other side of the island to Lochbuie. Of course we did. Angela's fixated with the place. She feels the same about Avingon in France. It was just after eight when we reached Lochbuie.

The long winding road down seemed to take forever, but as always it's worth it. The wind blew, the rain fell and then the rain ceased the wind dropped and a beautiful rainbow smeared itself over the mountain opposite before the clouds moved away revealing a clear blue evening sky.

The weather here is mad. In a weeks time we will need to be on our way back to England. For now, Mull's our home. We can't tell you how good it feels to be back here.