Carnasserie Castle, Kilmartin Glen

One last walk out this morning in beautiful sunshine. We were sad to be leaving Lochbuie, but also excited about discovering parts of Scotland we've not yet visited. As we began our drive along the narrow winding road the cloud crept across the top of Ben Buie. A reminder how the weather here in Scotland can suddenly change. We allowed ourselves plenty of time to drive to Craignure, arriving in good time for the ferry that would take us back to Oban on the mainland.

As Mull slipped away, Oban soon came into view. And upon our arrival we were thrown back into a busy, noisy world we didn't want to be part of.

Today was our shower day, and comments on the internet said the facilities on the Railway Pier should be avoided at all cost. Angela googled and found there was a leisure centre a few minutes out of town. £1.95 each and we were sorted. Now, we've been fairly lucky so far with showers, today however was a little different. Angela, sixty four, with the body of a twenty year old, she is not. Despite the showers being communal she undressed, showered and dressed in two minutes. Fortunately no one else arrived to join her. John, being John, locked the door in the men's so he had full exclusivety. The main thing is we now smell a little sweeter.

We have left the Highlands now, and are missing the constant presence of the sheep who have provided us with much joy and entertainment over the last few weeks. On the drive to our overnight stop we saw a group of ewes in a field who had just realised the farmer had let the rams join them. And they didn't look happy! Enjoy your evening girls.

It's been a long day. Travelling, banking and shopping in Oban and driving down country to tonight's stop at Carnasserie Castle. Upon arriving we realized we've stayed here before. Two other vans were already here, one Swiss who we're parked next to. Their television aerial is up. Oh how we're missing the quiet of Mull.

We walked up to the castle, open twenty four seven, and free to enter. The views from the top were stunning. Tired, but happy we are looking forward to tomorrow when we will hopefully be able to catch a ferry over to Islay. Island life suits us, so we can't wait.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (our last night before the mainland)

John was greeted first thing by one of the resident Chaffinches turning up looking for breakfast.

We were very disappointed this morning, not because it was raining, we've got passed that, but because our folding bucket sprung a leak. We bought it from Aldi for £4.99 before we left and now it's let us down. Our previous folding bucket from Go Outdoors at a cost of £8.00 lasted five years. Well there you go. Buy cheap, buy twice. Sitting out the weather we made use of the time to book a ferry from Mull back to the mainland. The CalMac website isn't the best and it took ages. Finally after much persistence we secured a place on tomorrow lunchtimes sailing to Oban. 

Late in the afternoon the sky still darkened by threatening clouds and the water in the loch the colour of oil, we walked out to the nearby stone circle, passing through a field of 'not so friendly sheep', their large horns, like Sue Pollard's glasses made us feel a little uneasy, particularly when they fixed us in their gaze.

More friendly were nine fallow dear who'd found their way into the field in front of Lochbuie house. This would be our last walk out here,  in fact our last walk out on Mull this visit. Angela felt a little sad, but knew we would return to this beautiful, tranquil, peaceful island again, and that Lochbuie and Tobermory would be waiting to welcome us.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (again)

It was a beautiful morning this morning. Sunny, but breezy. It makes a huge difference to us if the weather's fine and we're not cramped up on top of each other inside trying to dress. John opted for the outdoor dressing area, what he didn't expect was a wildlife tour bus to pass by just as he was letting the breeze flow over and around his....enough of that! Exhibitionist.

Today we were heading over to Fionophort so Angela could eat lobster for the first time. The journey as always on Mull slow but picturesque. Around every corner another spectacular view or motorhome!

Some of the roads in Scotland are not for the faint hearted, as a couple of Germans realised this morning.

Our lunch was delicious. Eaten outside as we watched the visitors board the ferry to the tiny island of Iona. We had no need to join them as we've visited before, but for anyone who hasn't, it's a must.

Where would we stay overnight tonight? Uisken beach was nearby, so off we went. But the weather changed and the thought of being there in the rain overnight held no appeal. So, despite the long drive we returned to Lochbuie. Of course we did. Angela so loves this place, it's going to be difficult to coax her off Mull. Once again a walk out to Moy castle stopping to watch the young fallow deer.

Loose plans have been made about our onward journey. We need to catch a ferry back to Oban on the mainland to avoid the long drive back round through Fort William before catching another ferry to Islay, then returning back to the mainland to catch a ferry to Arran. We have been away from home just over five weeks now and suddenly the days seem to be flying by. Sadly it looks like Angela will be saying goodbye to Mull very soon.

Just as we are sorting out for bed a super rainbow appears across the loch along with other camper on the shore to photograph it.

Loch Na Keal, Isle of Mull

Moving into Tobermory last night meant we avoided the bad weather. As nice as the town is, its pubs and restaurants don't close until after midnight, so the town doesn't quieten down for the night until around one o'clock.

After a wet start first thing the sun arrived, transforming the inky blue sea into the blue green waters of a tropical paradise. We didn't intend to spend the day in Tobermory, but Marge attracts so much attention we seem to be constantly talking to interested people about her and showing them around our humble abode. May have to start charging. Perhaps we should fit a donation box to her. Today's top comment about her. 'That's a cool machine'. Yes she is.

A German lady in a different type of pop top Defender showed us how her layout worked. It was very impressive, but definitely a lady plus dog only size only.

Out in the marina beautiful sailing boats sit on their berths. One from Holland. Sailing over at the beginning of the season and spending the summer taking visitors around the islands. Tall ship sailing is popular here, but it comes at a price. Yet more washing done, we readied to leave. John had a cousin who lived in Tobermory for many years, who sadly passed away a short while ago. Angela spotted her husband approaching the post office situated at the entrance to the car park. Talk about being in the right place at the right time. Sadly his health has deteriorated and he didn't know who we were. Shame.

The weather today has been an improving picture. We've only waited around four weeks. So tonight we returned to Loch Na Keal. The eggs in the oyster catchers nest now hatched, we watched the young on the shore with their parents. Then suddenly, happy with our presence the parents paraded three fluffy furry children right in front of us. Brilliant! Last time we stayed here at the loch we spotted an otter in the water.

There is evidence that an otter has been feeding here recently, so we hope we'll see one this time. Everyone who visits Mull wants to see an otter, but they don't just step out in front of you waving hello. Patience, persistence and luck are the only way.

This evening just us and one other van, the oyster catchers, highland cattle and the sheep tottering about on their stick legs. Why can't everywhere be this peaceful and beautiful?

Tobermory, Isle of Mull

Just before we retired to bed last night Angela noticed there wasn't a breath of wind. Not a quiver from the leaves on the tree in front of us. We'd only waited nearly five weeks for this moment. This morning however, we were back to normality, the wind blew across the loch, which was o.k. as it dried the small amount of washing we'd just put out. Strong wind and heavy rain is forecast on the island this evening, so we made a decision to head back into Tobermory for the night, once again staying alongside the harbour. It also gave us a chance to take a shower at the marina and pick up yet more shopping. 

Tobermory is a must visit place when on the island. What many visitors don't realise is that  the main street leads just to the ferry terminal. Large motorhomes regularly become stuck, causing chaos. We have to agree with the lady in, 'Hooked', the excellent fish and chips shop serving the 'best scampi ever', that they should be called 'crash vans' up here as they're far too large for Scottish roads. Showers taken and lunch eaten we walked around the small town, stopping at the bookshop where we saw the largest selection of books on otters we'd ever seen.

Then more walking, to try and ease the excessive lunch, up above the town from where the views of the harbour and colourful buildings are stunning. 

Tomorrow we will probably drive over to Loch Na Keal for the night. Last time we stayed there we saw an otter. After our sighting of one yesterday, we have the 'bug', and are now keen to see more.