Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (day 3)

We didn't move to Fionnphort today. John didn't sleep well, so we decided to stay put, and as the weather was still fine take a walk along the coast path towards Carsaig.

After a while the obvious footpath disappeared into dense ferns. We were in tick country. After Angela picked up a tick on our last visit we've been vigilant when it comes to the little blighters. The terrain became rocky and boggy and Angela lost her footing, slipping into a very nice mix of water mud and cow pat. Every time we go on holiday she can't help herself. There's always a drama. What a liability!

Along the way we stopped at a derelict farmhouse. The roof long caved in and the windows open to the world. Looking inside we saw a snapshot of a families past life. Stone walls clad in thin timber with no installation. A small toilet room and cast iron bedsteads left to rust in the salt filled air, wind and rain. It must have been bleak here in the depths of winter. But what an idyllic spot on a day like today.

The highlight of our day. We saw an Otter! We stood on the rocks for a long while watching it hunt and then bringing its prey up onto the rocks to devour. Once finished a seagull pecked at the remains. We were mesmerised. If we'd gone to Fionnphort as planned we would have missed this moment.

So tonight we will spend a third night at Lochbuie. Wanting to make the most of our last day we walked out across the beach towards Moy castle. The midges drawn out by the settled weather barrred our way and bit our foreheads. Tomorrow they will hideaway as the forecast is for heavy rain and strong winds, which they do not like. We don't either, but we've had to put up with so much bad weather, it's become the norm. We will head back into Tobermory to take showers at the marina and probably park up by the harbour for the night as it is more sheltered there. Also the fish and chip shop there serves excellent food. So life's not so bad is it?

A video of the Otter we saw, quality not brilliant, but a magical sight.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (day 2)

We are surrounded by sheep. Lamb and sheepskin rugs their future. The wildlife here is amazing. Flotillas of geese, goslings in tow silently drift by. The chaffinches continue to pester us for bread which they eat greedily before flying away to feed their young. And the nearby goats, too busy devouring anything in their path to be bothered about us photographing them, and highland cattle that sit on the beach at Laggan Sands, just chilling.

Today the weather has been great. Well great to us after so many weeks of cold and rain. We were able to wash clothes which dried quickly in the warm sunshine and forever present breeze. Then a walk out to a mausoleum we didn't know existed until a lady told us about it when we stayed at  Uisken beach a few weeks ago. Hidden amongst a copse this tiny, former church is beautiful. Some of the tiles have been removed from the roof so when you're inside it feels magical, lit by the colours of sapphire, emerald, ruby, garnet and diamonds. A little secret place in the woods.

Just three of us here tonight. There's filming taking place nearby which involves road closures, so we wonder if this may be the reason. We don't mind, it is so peaceful, and the view so beautiful this evening that Angela cannot stop taking photographs. When we return home in a few weeks time it will be nice to look back on them.

Another fine day is forecast for tomorrow, and then the rain returns. So we are heading over to Fionnphort back to the Fidden Farm campsite. A short walk will take us into town where we are hoping to eat lobster and chips from the seafood bar.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

Today, up at 6.40 am. On our way by 7.15 am. Second in the queue for the ferry to Mull by 7.20 am. Just before nine we were settled in the marina car park at Tobermory making fried egg sandwiches. The sun was out. But once again the air was cool. We were glad to be back in Tobermory though, and walked down the main street stopping to buy postcards, (yes we still send them).

We decided to stay overnight at Lochbuie. Four weeks ago when we were here, Angela was unwell with a chest infection and really wanted to return now she is well. Once away from the main road the driving slowed. A narrow single track road, with passing places, through dense wooded areas. Beautiful, but not great for your line of sight.

The campsite at the end of the road was quiet. Much quieter than when we were here before. It's very windy up on the main field, but as before we've secured a spot lower down under the trees near to the cafe and toilet. For the first time in weeks we've been able to put our bat wing awning out. Which really pleases us. As we lunched chaffinches gathered at our feet. We threw them pieces of bread.

They became so trusting of us that they even flew onto our knees to pick up bread. For a moment the loud shaking of a container of animal food frightened the birds away.

Two people appeared luring a small group of handsome looking highland cattle along the road. Out in the receding water a gannet dived and the needy calls of the lambs on the beach broke the silence. Behind us three baby Wrens like three fluffy brown balls, sat on the bough of a tree.

They seemed too young to be out of the nest. After a walk out we treated ourselves to hot drinks and cake at the cafe, where we also bought a piece of Hebridean blue cheese to eat with olives and parma ham later this week. The rain keeps passing through, but it is light and we are hoping to cook outside tonight. It's been a while. Forever the optimists, we have a variety of lamb products to cook over the next few days, including burgers from a food stall at the market in Tobermory this morning. We feel happy to be back here, and are looking forward to spending quite a few days on the island. As for the weather, we have resigned ourselves to the fact, it is what it is!

Early evening and the midges have come out to play. Forget midge spray and citronella candles. When we light our cooking fire, they'll soon be off.

Kilchoan, Ardnamurchan

After yet another night of heavy rain the day began dry, and by nine the sun was out. Hooray! Right on cue the tour mini buses arrived filling the parking area. Angela, observing from the Boxio once again was fascinated by the Chinese visitors who posed and snapped. Instagram would be red hot later.

We were away by nine thirty ourselves. First stop the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge. We always stop here when we pass by. The snow frosted the top of nearby Ben Nevis enhancing the spectacular vista. The coaches arrived, and within five minutes left. Just time for couple of quick photographs. We always linger a while here and always walk around the memorial garden and always notice memorials for members of the SBS (Special Boat Service) who are based at our home town of Poole. A visit here always makes us reflective and a little sad. Next stop Aldi, Fort William. At last affordable shopping. 

By midday we were passing the Glenfinnian monument. We pulled into the car park reluctant to pay the five pound fee. But decided we should so we could walk up to the viewpoint and down to the monument. The area has become popular since the Harry Potter film, Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets, when the Hogwarts Express crossed the viaduct here. We enjoyed our time here, basking in warm sunshine whilst taking in the fabulous views, even a pair of Firecrests taking food to a nest . We'd waited along time for a day like today.

Pushing on we headed to Glenuig, where we used the showers at the village hall. We've stopped here a few times now. Today a choir was practicing inside. Their voices sounded beautiful. One of the lady singers came out to admire Marge. Then all of the choir came out to continue their practice outside. Including the lady who designed the beautiful mosaic we always admire above the front doors. Driving once again across Ardnamurchan we were afforded views across to Eigg with the Cuillin mountains on Skye in the background. We love this area. Green, peaceful and unspoiled. 

This evening we are staying at Kilchoan. Home to Strictly Come Dancing Winner 2022 Hamza Yassin. And yes we've seen him. And yes he waved to us. Angela of course was a little star struck. 

Tomorrow Mull. The ferry leaves from here, so we'll be up bright and early. We wanted to return to this area before heading home, but didn't expect it to be so soon. But deciding to move back to southern Scotland was a good move. This evening is the first time we've been able to sit with our back door open, take in the beautiful view and enjoy almost silence. Bliss.