Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

Today, up at 6.40 am. On our way by 7.15 am. Second in the queue for the ferry to Mull by 7.20 am. Just before nine we were settled in the marina car park at Tobermory making fried egg sandwiches. The sun was out. But once again the air was cool. We were glad to be back in Tobermory though, and walked down the main street stopping to buy postcards, (yes we still send them).

We decided to stay overnight at Lochbuie. Four weeks ago when we were here, Angela was unwell with a chest infection and really wanted to return now she is well. Once away from the main road the driving slowed. A narrow single track road, with passing places, through dense wooded areas. Beautiful, but not great for your line of sight.

The campsite at the end of the road was quiet. Much quieter than when we were here before. It's very windy up on the main field, but as before we've secured a spot lower down under the trees near to the cafe and toilet. For the first time in weeks we've been able to put our bat wing awning out. Which really pleases us. As we lunched chaffinches gathered at our feet. We threw them pieces of bread.

They became so trusting of us that they even flew onto our knees to pick up bread. For a moment the loud shaking of a container of animal food frightened the birds away.

Two people appeared luring a small group of handsome looking highland cattle along the road. Out in the receding water a gannet dived and the needy calls of the lambs on the beach broke the silence. Behind us three baby Wrens like three fluffy brown balls, sat on the bough of a tree.

They seemed too young to be out of the nest. After a walk out we treated ourselves to hot drinks and cake at the cafe, where we also bought a piece of Hebridean blue cheese to eat with olives and parma ham later this week. The rain keeps passing through, but it is light and we are hoping to cook outside tonight. It's been a while. Forever the optimists, we have a variety of lamb products to cook over the next few days, including burgers from a food stall at the market in Tobermory this morning. We feel happy to be back here, and are looking forward to spending quite a few days on the island. As for the weather, we have resigned ourselves to the fact, it is what it is!

Early evening and the midges have come out to play. Forget midge spray and citronella candles. When we light our cooking fire, they'll soon be off.

Kilchoan, Ardnamurchan

After yet another night of heavy rain the day began dry, and by nine the sun was out. Hooray! Right on cue the tour mini buses arrived filling the parking area. Angela, observing from the Boxio once again was fascinated by the Chinese visitors who posed and snapped. Instagram would be red hot later.

We were away by nine thirty ourselves. First stop the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge. We always stop here when we pass by. The snow frosted the top of nearby Ben Nevis enhancing the spectacular vista. The coaches arrived, and within five minutes left. Just time for couple of quick photographs. We always linger a while here and always walk around the memorial garden and always notice memorials for members of the SBS (Special Boat Service) who are based at our home town of Poole. A visit here always makes us reflective and a little sad. Next stop Aldi, Fort William. At last affordable shopping. 

By midday we were passing the Glenfinnian monument. We pulled into the car park reluctant to pay the five pound fee. But decided we should so we could walk up to the viewpoint and down to the monument. The area has become popular since the Harry Potter film, Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets, when the Hogwarts Express crossed the viaduct here. We enjoyed our time here, basking in warm sunshine whilst taking in the fabulous views, even a pair of Firecrests taking food to a nest . We'd waited along time for a day like today.

Pushing on we headed to Glenuig, where we used the showers at the village hall. We've stopped here a few times now. Today a choir was practicing inside. Their voices sounded beautiful. One of the lady singers came out to admire Marge. Then all of the choir came out to continue their practice outside. Including the lady who designed the beautiful mosaic we always admire above the front doors. Driving once again across Ardnamurchan we were afforded views across to Eigg with the Cuillin mountains on Skye in the background. We love this area. Green, peaceful and unspoiled. 

This evening we are staying at Kilchoan. Home to Strictly Come Dancing Winner 2022 Hamza Yassin. And yes we've seen him. And yes he waved to us. Angela of course was a little star struck. 

Tomorrow Mull. The ferry leaves from here, so we'll be up bright and early. We wanted to return to this area before heading home, but didn't expect it to be so soon. But deciding to move back to southern Scotland was a good move. This evening is the first time we've been able to sit with our back door open, take in the beautiful view and enjoy almost silence. Bliss.

Loch Lochy Viewpoint, Letter Finlay, near Spean Bridge

Around seven yesterday evening a small van with signage for Highland council pulled into the parking area. The lady driver turned out to be a local ranger and came over to speak with us as we had our rear door open. We spoke for well over an hour, telling her of problems we thought needed addressing with regard to the many vans in the area, and she spoke about plans in place to address some of them. She was quite taken with our Boxio toilet, which fortunately we'd emptied earlier. Her accent was a little unclear at first, but then we realized she was French. Obviously we were curious as to why she would want to swap her home town near Bordeaux with cold, wet, windy Scotland. She'd been up here now for many years and loved it. Oh well, each to their own. After another cold, wet windy night we awoke to see the seals on the nearby sand flats. There are definitely less than we've seen on our previous visits, perhaps they're fed up with the cold as well and have moved to warmer climes.

The cold is starting to become an issue, and Angela thought we should give up on going to the north and west of Scotland. Heavy rain and winds are due to roll in off the Atlantic for a few days and it just seemed to miserable to stay. We will return to the area sometime next year with our higher tog duvet and when the weather is more settled as we can see no point in driving busy narrow potholed single tracked roads in appalling weather when the clouds would be low obscuring the mountains? 

So today we've driven back towards Fort William. It seemed a little warmer around Loch Ness, very busy with visitors all in search of the illusive monster. Once again we could drive straight through the area having seen the sights and attractions before. Trees, glens, mountains, lochs, waterfalls and crumbling stone walls topped with fresh green ferns like native Indian headdresses are our interest.

Tonight's stop at the viewpoint car park for Loch Lochy is not the sort we would normally choose to stay at as it's next to the A82 to Fort William. But it being Sunday tomorrow we hope the early traffic will be light. There are quite a few other vans here with us as free overnight stops in the area are limited. We managed a very short walk out, stopping to look at the waterfall. If course it keeps raining, but the forecast for tomorrow shows the weather settling after lunch. We are going to head back to Ardurmuchan and then onto Mull. No doubt the weather won't play ball, but we can only hope it will settle and warm up a little. The ranger yesterday told us there was snow on the nearby mountains which is totally unseasonable, as is the cold. We've been away four weeks now and really hope the weather improves dramatically. Good luck to everyone driving the NC500, we hope you get to take in the amazing views on offer, but for us we are lucky to have the choice and time to return at our leisure.

Impressive Dryads Saddles.

Skelbo

At midday we left Fortrose. We'd enjoyed staying there, but as everyday we wished the weather had been warmer and more settled. The cold is starting to wear us down. But we know we're not alone, everyone we meet along the way feels the same way. We are waiting to move back across to the West Coast, but the weather over there is appalling, with snow forecast today. We will probably slowly start moving across tomorrow, as from Sunday conditions looks a little better.

Today our drive took us up past the Cromarty Firth where redundant  oil rigs and platforms stood ghost like in the gloom. Our chosen overnight stop a little further on turned out to be a no. Checking on search for sites Angela realized we were near to Skelbo where we've stayed twice before and where you can seal watch from your vehicle.

There is one other van here, a beautiful VW T25/T3 Synchro Vanagon. We talked awhile with the couple, from Canada, before cooking our evening meal and settling down for the night. The sun made an appearance, and the wind dropped, but we know a heatwave is not about to arrive anytime soon. Sadly.

Fortrose ( day 2)

We really enjoyed our anniversary meal at the Anderson Gastro Pub. The food was fantastic. The atmosphere great. The dining area in the pubs whisky bar, (250 on offer), of just eight tables made it both intimate and sociable.

By the end of the evening we were in conversation with the couple opposite who'd just retired and were spending three weeks driving the NC500 staying at bed and breakfasts. Plenty of walking for them then!

As for us we had yet another day to explore the area. We walked down to the pretty village of Rosemarkie stopping at Crofters restaurant for refreshment. Then took the long walk up to the Fairy Glen to see the waterfalls. The path was muddy and in places sucked at our boots. But the scramble up was worth it. By now the waves of rain and hail had ceased and the temperature climbed just a little. Back in the village John bought a scotch pie and cheese and onion pasty at the little Spar shop. We sat by the beach, the sand coloured pink by the nearby red sandstone. Behind us swallows and sand martins darted and dived feeding off small airborne insects. Suddenly it was warm. Dressed in waterproofs we began to feel like a couple of boil in the bag meals. But we didn't complain. No rain, no hail and sunshine. We'd waited a long time. But back at Marge the wind continued to gust. We talked to our neighbour whose wife had a fall the day before and had broken a rib. He wasn't sure if they'd carry on with their holiday or return to their home in Yorkshire. He'd like to stay as the weather was nicer here! Was he joking!

Not wanting to leave the area without seeing some dolphins we took a walk down to Chanonry Point just after seven in the evening. As we stood with other anticipating dolphin spotters the wind blew cold. Suddenly a shout went up and there near to the shore were a pod of dolphins, graceful and majestic, dipping and rolling on the grey waters of the rising tide. Before decent photographs could be taken they swam away seeking out food in the churning ocean. We've seen dolphins before, but not close by. Brilliant. We'd just wished the sea had been calmer, but hey, we saw the dolphins.