Steeple, South West Coast Path, Dorset

Up this morning at 5.30am. Angela had slept O.K. Wild camping now ticked of her list. We were away by seven, of course leaving no trace. Stopping further along the path at Whinspit quarry to make tea and coffee.

Hidden amongst the rocks, three tents. Wild camping isn't technically allowed along the path, but these abandoned quarries make for ideal overnight accommodation, as long as you don't venture inside the tunnels, as there is a danger of rockfall. Today would be our first full day on the path. Keen to put some miles in we set off.

At St. Aldhelms Head we rested a while by the coastguard lookout point. Visited the eight hundred year old chapel behind it, and read the information board by the Purbeck Radar sculpture. A short distance on, another stop at the Royal Marines Memorial, from where the views across Emmett's Bay were amazing.

Then. Oh my God. At Chapman's Pool,  a steep descent of around two hundred steps, before a steep ascent of over two hundred steps. Angela really had to steel herself.

Now she realised the walk wasn't going to be a gentle stroll along the coast. After a morning of very challenging walking, with no denying the coastal views were spectacular, we descended Hens Cliff passing the Tuscan style four storey Clavells tower, into Kimmeridge Bay.

Boy, were we glad to be able to collapse onto the grass. We weren't however too pleased when we discovered  we'd arrived at 'rip off' Britain! £4.50 for a minute sausage roll, and £4.00 for a can of unbranded fizzy drink. No thanks. Peanut butter and pitta bread will do us. However, as the afternoon passed by, Angela found out a large portion of very nice large chunky chips were available at £5.00! If you don't ask, you wouldn't know. We were now on the edge of Lulworth firing ranges. They can only be crossed between late afternoon on a Friday and eight o'clock Monday morning, so tomorrow was our window, which is why we'd decided to spend the night at the nearby Steeple Leaze Farm campsite.

Well, said campsite will go down on Angela's list as being in her top five for its terrible facilities. We have stayed at hundreds of campsites over the years, and have only on a handful occasions not dared venture into the showers. Angela on this occasion did. She can't begin to describe how terrible they were. Housed in a large shed, with heart shaped peep holes cut in the doors. Why? The floor area needed washing down before use. They were one up from a hose down in the cowshed. Thinking about it, the cowshed might have been nicer. Pitched next to us, two Danish cyclists, cycling to Morocco. As you do. Tired from the exertions of the day, and slightly irritated by the extortionate prices at Kimmeridge Bay, and the very rustic facilities at the campsite we slept well.