Osmington Mills, South West Coast Path, Dorset

Angela had made it clear when we arrived last night at Scratchy Bottom that she wasn't walking up the cliff path directly in front of us. Fortunately John agreed, and it was decided we would take a lower footpath across to the farm and onto a main road. We didn't. Of course we didn't. We opted for option three.

On the other side of the fence a path carved through the long brittle grass. It was hard going. No surprise there. But Angela was able to hold onto the barbed wire fence, obviously on the smooth sections, and we were able to grab hold of the fence posts every few paces to stop and rest, and take in the view back towards Durdle Door. Summiting, with relief, we could see we were well and truly now on 'the rollercoaster'.

But we could do this. Slow and steady. In the near distance we could see the island of Portland, and the causeway that linked it to the mainland.

A cruise ship, sat on it's berth, awaiting departure through the beautiful aquamarine waters of the English channel.

As we perched high on the chalk cliffs taking a well earned rest, we looked back along the coast and couldn't believe how far we'd walked since Friday afternoon. Whilst sitting, Angela spotted she had a tick embedded in her upper arm. Bearing in mind we were balanced precariously on a narrow cliff top path, the task of undoing her rucksack to obtain our tick card was challenging. The heavy rucksack wanting to go with gravity and slide towards the cliff edge.

By the end of the day we were to remove a total of six ticks. Two from Angela, four from John. Keen to not lose our momentum, and knowing there would be at least one more horrendous climb before dropping down into Ringsted Bay, we pressed on, passing the old coastguard cottages, and stopping to look at a young slow worm as it slithered across the path.

Small brown butterflies flitted around us, sitting on the path, taking flight just as our foot touched the ground before them. They felt like guardians. The downhill walk to Ringstead Bay made the hard effort of the morning all worth it. We love it at Ringstead, and we loved even more knowing a cafe, loos and a drinking water top up awaited us. BLT baps and carrot cake, hot drinks and ginger beer rejuvenated us. This was our reward for not giving up.

With just two miles to walk to the campsite at Osmington Mills, another one of our favourite places, we meandered our way through a wooded area until we reached the Smugglers Inn which stands above the bay at Osmington. 

Then one final incline up to the campsite reception. We'd made it! More so, we'd made it in one piece, mentally, and physically. Now time to kick back, wash some clothes and ourselves before pushing the boat out and having an absolutely delicious meal at the Smugglers this evening.