Thursday, 14 September 2023

Camping L'ile des Pecheurs, Condrieu

This morning the river was shrouded in a swirling mist. Trees of ochre, yellow and red signaled the start of autumn. We were glad to pack up and leave, two nights roughing it were enough. As we cycled away from the town the early morning sun dispersed the damp blanket that covered everything.


Reflections appeared on the river as the day awoke. Our tired legs knew the drill and pumped up and down turning the cranks that in turn spun the wheels. At the next large town a much needed coffee stop and purchase of filled baguettes for lunch. A decision was made that we would cycle no further and instead catch the train here, the station only half a mile away. Tickets booked online, with a change at Lyon we were on the next train. Lyon station was busy but we had nearly half an hour to change and found our platform easily. The train already waiting boarding would be easy and relaxed. Or so we presumed. No. A couple with huge electric bikes (resembling motorbikes) with a trailer and numerous pannier bags struggled to board the train. 'No more trains', said the wife. We were only going to the next stop ten minutes away so waited for them to sort themselves out and then wheeled on our bicycles leaving them by the exit doors. The ticket inspector looked on. Exasperated he left us all to it. Bikes are one thing, but trailers another. They are not allowed on trains normally. With the electric bike becoming so popular we wonder what the train operators have planned for the future to accommodate them. John's hoping they're be a ban.




We arrived at Vienne at lunchtime. A visit to the tourist office to collect the map for the Via Rhona cycle route before lunch. We are now in the Rhone-Alps region of France.


The scenery is stunning. It has taken us two weeks to cycle here and we feel like we've entered another country. Whilst waiting for the campsite to reopen after lunch we spoke with a dutch lady also waiting. The campsites in the area are closing this weekend so tomorrow we will need to make some plans. Tonight though we have the company of seven other cyclists. We presume they were all treated to the same officious welcome as we were. Standing line. Listen to this information. Enter the site by one gate, leave by another. Gate is locked at 8 pm. Communal tent with fridge and microwave not to be slept in if it rains. What? The Dutch lady stated if it rains I'm in there! Oh, and that'll be 27 euros for you two. No passport or I.D. needed. Why, it's the ruling here. John joked about cash in the pocket. Mistake, that upset the woman. We know how it works though from our time on the Atlantic coast earlier in the year. She's probably well worried now she's seen John photographing the entrance to the campsite. We are now in wine country. Grapevines are everywhere, even alongside the cycle path so forager John is in his element. Personally Angela prefers her grapes fermented and bottled;-)

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