Ullapool

Were we really going to climb Stac Pollaidh today. No probably not. The larger mountains sagged under the clouds. However, Stac Pollaidh was sitting under the merest whisper of cloud.

Would it be too high for Angela to ascend and descend, it was quite high. Other vehicles began to arrive. Are you going up? It seemed wrong to be sat so near to the mountain and not take the opportunity to give it a go. An older couple from the van next to us set off. Let's go. 

Whilst we packed our rucksacks with appropriate spare clothing and snacks the weak sunlight dispersed the cloud from the other mountains. Half an hour later we were on our way up. Stopping to remove our waterproof trousers. The sun was out and it was obvious the threat of rain had passed over. Down in the loch we could see some canoeists. Forty-five minutes in to the climb we stopped again for John to remove some layers. We were warming up.

The views back down were amazing. As we ventured further up the path became a little more difficult. Scrambling over the rocks, we realised to reach the ridge at the top the walk was almost vertical. Enough. Angela, panic rising knew she had walked far enough and hunkered down in a hollow next to a rock. Don't look down, look at the horizon. Down below the crystal waters of the Loch Gurgainn and the green lush vegetation surrounding it was stunning. In the flanks of the opposite mountains wisps of clouds clung. What a view. A quick photograph. Remember don't look down.

John climbed right up to the ridge and took some fantastic photographs. Was there a coffee shop at the top? No. Just a half star rating on trip adviser then. Many other people were now on the mountain, most fairly young. We were proud of our achievement. Not bad for an older couple. 

After a few deep breaths Angela steeled herself for the climb back down. With the aid of her walking pole, she became a little more confident. But this was it as far as mountain climbing went. That box was now ticked. Three hours fifteen minutes after leaving Marge we returned. Relieved, elated and proud. Angela had put more comfortable walking socks on before leaving, she now needed dry underwear and trousers. No Marge, I sat in a hollow on wet soil. 

Our time on the Coigach peninsula was over. We needed to make haste for Ullapool, a port and village just over ten miles away. There was a Tesco there for us to stock up on food. Busy with the vans we parked Marge. Once again, the shelves in the supermarket had been cleared. Then we found a stop with other vans in a layby alongside the main road out of Ullapool. Not ideal but it would do.

Another walk, this time down to the harbour to stretch our already tired legs.

At the Royal Hotel we saw a sign for motorhome parking. Ten pounds to park Marge somewhere quiet and safe on a Friday night and there was signal for the internet. Right Marge, play nice with your two companions, we're off out again. Walking around the harbour, the ferry having just left for one of the Hebridean islands, the aroma of fish and chips filled our nostrils. Trying to ignore it we marvelled at the trees in the distance, a riot of autumn colours. No good we were reeled in. Think of it as a reward for climbing Stac Pollaidh. The Seaforth Fish and Chip shop had a bar adjacent, so we sat under the covered area and ordered lager to accompany our meal. It felt good to be having a night out.

We have now been in Scotland five weeks and have certainly challenged ourselves. There's a saying. If it isn't a little scary, it probably isn't worth your time. The climb today proved that.

From the top of the Stac on times 10 magnification on the camera, a long way down!