San Remo

The English couple we met last night had a dog. As they walked it out late evening, we realised we may have put our foot in it when talking to them earlier, when we'd spoken about people who 'own the sort of dog that bites children', why would you want one? You've guessed it. Always view someone's dog, before you comment on their canine.

We left early this morning, as we wanted to avoid paying for the parking, which seems the general way here if the aire is paid for at a ticket machine. After all, there were no services for the vans, it was purely parking in a seafront car park, and we've done this many times before without being asked to pay.

This morning we drove a short distance along the coast road to San Remo. The traffic though was heavy, especially with scooter riders coming at us from all directions, diving in and out between the vehicles. But Marge has become a bit of an expert in the art of Italian driving. Who'd have thought we'd be saying this five weeks ago? One rather large girl flew by Marge on an old Vespa scooter, her buttocks hanging over the sides like pannier bags. We're sure there was probably a seat under there somewhere! You had to feel sorry for the Vespa, as it was having to take the strain!

Tonight's stop is right by the beach at San Remo. The aire is very popular, and when we arrived just before lunch was pretty much full. After lunch, we took a walk out over the rocks at the rear of the beach, where we stopped to sit for a while. Above us we could see the vans, outside of one was sat a German family, whose young son decided to hurl small rocks down into the sea. After we said some choice words to him, his father told him to stop. A few minutes later three Italian lads arrived with their fishing rods, one still wearing his scooter helmet. He'd obviously heard about the 'rock hurling German'

For one last time, an evening walk out in Italy up to Casa da Villa Helios, an old and once very stunning building , now derelict, it's only inhabitants the local pigeons. The building probably has hundreds of stories to tell, and many secrets to hide.

Tomorrow we leave Italy, we are only about thirty miles from the French border. Italy has wowed us, terrified us, every day the drivers do something to unnerve us, but we'll miss you, and despite all the drama, we really have enjoyed visiting some amazing places.

We'd love to return to Pompeii. Rome and Pisa were both highlights, as were the amazing views, some fabulous overnights stops, sights we'd never had seen, if we'd not veered off the beaten track, aromas from cooking, emitting from restaurants and Italian kitchens, the evening smell of the jasmine, the vibrant colours, of the sometimes stunning, floral displays and blossom. Tomorrow we will leave this crazy country feeling a little sad, and glad we did not let it overcome, us despite its challenges.

Italy, we're sure we'll revisit you in the future.