Loch Na Keal, Isle of Mull

Moving into Tobermory last night meant we avoided the bad weather. As nice as the town is, its pubs and restaurants don't close until after midnight, so the town doesn't quieten down for the night until around one o'clock.

After a wet start first thing the sun arrived, transforming the inky blue sea into the blue green waters of a tropical paradise. We didn't intend to spend the day in Tobermory, but Marge attracts so much attention we seem to be constantly talking to interested people about her and showing them around our humble abode. May have to start charging. Perhaps we should fit a donation box to her. Today's top comment about her. 'That's a cool machine'. Yes she is.

A German lady in a different type of pop top Defender showed us how her layout worked. It was very impressive, but definitely a lady plus dog only size only.

Out in the marina beautiful sailing boats sit on their berths. One from Holland. Sailing over at the beginning of the season and spending the summer taking visitors around the islands. Tall ship sailing is popular here, but it comes at a price. Yet more washing done, we readied to leave. John had a cousin who lived in Tobermory for many years, who sadly passed away a short while ago. Angela spotted her husband approaching the post office situated at the entrance to the car park. Talk about being in the right place at the right time. Sadly his health has deteriorated and he didn't know who we were. Shame.

The weather today has been an improving picture. We've only waited around four weeks. So tonight we returned to Loch Na Keal. The eggs in the oyster catchers nest now hatched, we watched the young on the shore with their parents. Then suddenly, happy with our presence the parents paraded three fluffy furry children right in front of us. Brilliant! Last time we stayed here at the loch we spotted an otter in the water.

There is evidence that an otter has been feeding here recently, so we hope we'll see one this time. Everyone who visits Mull wants to see an otter, but they don't just step out in front of you waving hello. Patience, persistence and luck are the only way.

This evening just us and one other van, the oyster catchers, highland cattle and the sheep tottering about on their stick legs. Why can't everywhere be this peaceful and beautiful?

Tobermory, Isle of Mull

Just before we retired to bed last night Angela noticed there wasn't a breath of wind. Not a quiver from the leaves on the tree in front of us. We'd only waited nearly five weeks for this moment. This morning however, we were back to normality, the wind blew across the loch, which was o.k. as it dried the small amount of washing we'd just put out. Strong wind and heavy rain is forecast on the island this evening, so we made a decision to head back into Tobermory for the night, once again staying alongside the harbour. It also gave us a chance to take a shower at the marina and pick up yet more shopping. 

Tobermory is a must visit place when on the island. What many visitors don't realise is that  the main street leads just to the ferry terminal. Large motorhomes regularly become stuck, causing chaos. We have to agree with the lady in, 'Hooked', the excellent fish and chips shop serving the 'best scampi ever', that they should be called 'crash vans' up here as they're far too large for Scottish roads. Showers taken and lunch eaten we walked around the small town, stopping at the bookshop where we saw the largest selection of books on otters we'd ever seen.

Then more walking, to try and ease the excessive lunch, up above the town from where the views of the harbour and colourful buildings are stunning. 

Tomorrow we will probably drive over to Loch Na Keal for the night. Last time we stayed there we saw an otter. After our sighting of one yesterday, we have the 'bug', and are now keen to see more.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (day 3)

We didn't move to Fionnphort today. John didn't sleep well, so we decided to stay put, and as the weather was still fine take a walk along the coast path towards Carsaig.

After a while the obvious footpath disappeared into dense ferns. We were in tick country. After Angela picked up a tick on our last visit we've been vigilant when it comes to the little blighters. The terrain became rocky and boggy and Angela lost her footing, slipping into a very nice mix of water mud and cow pat. Every time we go on holiday she can't help herself. There's always a drama. What a liability!

Along the way we stopped at a derelict farmhouse. The roof long caved in and the windows open to the world. Looking inside we saw a snapshot of a families past life. Stone walls clad in thin timber with no installation. A small toilet room and cast iron bedsteads left to rust in the salt filled air, wind and rain. It must have been bleak here in the depths of winter. But what an idyllic spot on a day like today.

The highlight of our day. We saw an Otter! We stood on the rocks for a long while watching it hunt and then bringing its prey up onto the rocks to devour. Once finished a seagull pecked at the remains. We were mesmerised. If we'd gone to Fionnphort as planned we would have missed this moment.

So tonight we will spend a third night at Lochbuie. Wanting to make the most of our last day we walked out across the beach towards Moy castle. The midges drawn out by the settled weather barrred our way and bit our foreheads. Tomorrow they will hideaway as the forecast is for heavy rain and strong winds, which they do not like. We don't either, but we've had to put up with so much bad weather, it's become the norm. We will head back into Tobermory to take showers at the marina and probably park up by the harbour for the night as it is more sheltered there. Also the fish and chip shop there serves excellent food. So life's not so bad is it?

A video of the Otter we saw, quality not brilliant, but a magical sight.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull (day 2)

We are surrounded by sheep. Lamb and sheepskin rugs their future. The wildlife here is amazing. Flotillas of geese, goslings in tow silently drift by. The chaffinches continue to pester us for bread which they eat greedily before flying away to feed their young. And the nearby goats, too busy devouring anything in their path to be bothered about us photographing them, and highland cattle that sit on the beach at Laggan Sands, just chilling.

Today the weather has been great. Well great to us after so many weeks of cold and rain. We were able to wash clothes which dried quickly in the warm sunshine and forever present breeze. Then a walk out to a mausoleum we didn't know existed until a lady told us about it when we stayed at  Uisken beach a few weeks ago. Hidden amongst a copse this tiny, former church is beautiful. Some of the tiles have been removed from the roof so when you're inside it feels magical, lit by the colours of sapphire, emerald, ruby, garnet and diamonds. A little secret place in the woods.

Just three of us here tonight. There's filming taking place nearby which involves road closures, so we wonder if this may be the reason. We don't mind, it is so peaceful, and the view so beautiful this evening that Angela cannot stop taking photographs. When we return home in a few weeks time it will be nice to look back on them.

Another fine day is forecast for tomorrow, and then the rain returns. So we are heading over to Fionnphort back to the Fidden Farm campsite. A short walk will take us into town where we are hoping to eat lobster and chips from the seafood bar.

Lochbuie, Isle of Mull

Today, up at 6.40 am. On our way by 7.15 am. Second in the queue for the ferry to Mull by 7.20 am. Just before nine we were settled in the marina car park at Tobermory making fried egg sandwiches. The sun was out. But once again the air was cool. We were glad to be back in Tobermory though, and walked down the main street stopping to buy postcards, (yes we still send them).

We decided to stay overnight at Lochbuie. Four weeks ago when we were here, Angela was unwell with a chest infection and really wanted to return now she is well. Once away from the main road the driving slowed. A narrow single track road, with passing places, through dense wooded areas. Beautiful, but not great for your line of sight.

The campsite at the end of the road was quiet. Much quieter than when we were here before. It's very windy up on the main field, but as before we've secured a spot lower down under the trees near to the cafe and toilet. For the first time in weeks we've been able to put our bat wing awning out. Which really pleases us. As we lunched chaffinches gathered at our feet. We threw them pieces of bread.

They became so trusting of us that they even flew onto our knees to pick up bread. For a moment the loud shaking of a container of animal food frightened the birds away.

Two people appeared luring a small group of handsome looking highland cattle along the road. Out in the receding water a gannet dived and the needy calls of the lambs on the beach broke the silence. Behind us three baby Wrens like three fluffy brown balls, sat on the bough of a tree.

They seemed too young to be out of the nest. After a walk out we treated ourselves to hot drinks and cake at the cafe, where we also bought a piece of Hebridean blue cheese to eat with olives and parma ham later this week. The rain keeps passing through, but it is light and we are hoping to cook outside tonight. It's been a while. Forever the optimists, we have a variety of lamb products to cook over the next few days, including burgers from a food stall at the market in Tobermory this morning. We feel happy to be back here, and are looking forward to spending quite a few days on the island. As for the weather, we have resigned ourselves to the fact, it is what it is!

Early evening and the midges have come out to play. Forget midge spray and citronella candles. When we light our cooking fire, they'll soon be off.