Krakow, Poland (day 3)

Prior to setting off on our trip to Krakow we both suffered chest infections. Angela is still coughing now three weeks on. This morning she stumbled into the bathroom for yet another bout of coughing and nose blowing. Too lazy, or perhaps too cost conscious she didn't bother switching the light on. A few minutes later the bathroom resembled a crime scene. Blood on the floor, in the wash hand basin and on the white, yes white towel, fortunately not too much. Yesterday evening she'd managed to drop chocolate on the white duvet cover. Goodness knows what the housekeeping team would think. And what is it with hotels and white towels and linen? Hardly practical is it?  We were a few minutes later arriving for breakfast than yesterday. The hotel seemed busier this morning, especially with young families. The problem with a buffet style breakfast is the, we've paid for it, so we're having it attitude. Plates piled with cold meat and bread adorned many of the tables, most of which wasn't touched. What a waste. We both had the same idea, if this type of behavior was allowed, and nobody did anything to curtail it, then a few rolls and some cheese wouldn't be missed. That was lunch sorted. If you can't beat them, join them. 

For the first time since we arrived the sun made an appearance. The forecast for the next two days is very good, and our new very warm gloves and hats won't be required. But before venturing out we booked an excursion to the Wieliczka Salt Mine for Friday. So that should be fun. The only downside, we'll need to be up early, the transport leaves just after nine. Today we planned to walk down to Wawel Royal Castle, dating back to the 14th century. What a place, grand and imposing standing on a rocky outcrop overlooking the river Vistula.

We walked around the grounds, marvelled at the architecture, checked out the Wawel dragon, a bronze statue standing 660 cm high.

Then stopped at the cathedral where we talked to the guide about the three bones from a mammoth, hippopotamus and whale from the end of the ice age that hung to one side of the cathedrals main entrance.

Myth says, if they fall from the chains that hold them up, the world will end. The last time they fell was the the day before world war two began!

The daylight hours are short here, and as we sat drinking hot drinks at the Christmas market the sky began to resemble burning coals in a grate. Our companions were a young English couple, she was a physiotherapist at Bournemouth hospital. Small world. This evening we have booked a table at a Thai restaurant just a stones throw from our hotel.

Most of the restaurants here seem to serve traditional polish cuisine, Indian, Chinese and Thai restaurants are very few. However Thai  massage is prevalent, hidden down many of the side passages we pass when out walking. Let's hope the restaurant isn't just a cover. Mind you after so much walking, a massage might be just the tonic for our aching hips. Becoming old, isn't for the faint hearted.

Krakow, Poland (day 2)

Our room in the hotel is very nice, but also very warm, and we have no way of controlling the temperature except to open the window, which of course means inviting the sounds of Krakow old town inside 24/7. But it's not so bad. A first night's sleep when you go away is never your best night. So this morning we planned just to walk out a little today to explore the Jewish quarter. But first the buffet breakfast. Forget bacon and eggs. More like scrambled eggs, very nice, smoked sausage, selection of cereals, fruit, yoghurt, breads, cakes, cheese, ham, boiled eggs and salad. Salad for breakfast? No. Giant gherkins? Yes, if you're John. And all washed down with tea or coffee, of if you're brave John Hampton, a beetroot shot.That's a never again then. Something for everyone, that's the main thing. After receiving our fill we readied ourselves to walk down towards the river Wisla stopping off on the way to visit the Old Synagogue.

Erected around 1485 it is one of the oldest synagogues in Poland. Obviously during the world wars Germany stole items from the building. But now it stands defiant. Our visit was both enjoyable and informative. Nearby was the Jewish cemetery, now neglected and overgrown, still poignant. The architecture in the area was interesting, but in a very bad state with missing render and graffiti emblazoned on surfaces all around. We were only a short distance from Krakow centre, but what a contrast.

Back in the old town, despite a hearty breakfast, lunch beckoned. More pasta for John, more soup for Angela. On a stage amongst the market youngsters sang Christmas songs and carols. We bought authentic Turkish delight, just a small bag,  but it is so delicious we will probably return for more. And of course there are still all those meat products to consider. Looks like more walking will be required tomorrow.

This evening we took another walk out to have dinner.

Krakow, Poland

When the alarm sounded at 3am this morning Angela had already been awake at least an hour, in fact, despite us being in bed since just after seven thirty the previous evening she reckoned she'd slept for no more than 2 hours.

Fired by adrenalin, and wanting to allow plenty of time to reach Bournemouth airport, a drive of just over half an hour away, we were all set to leave by 4am. As we drove along the familiar road out of Poole, devoid of traffic at this early nerves set in. The distraction of preparing for Christmas hadn't given Angela, who doesn't like flying, much time to think about boarding an aeroplane. Lack of sleep and the sight of many passengers tucking into full English breakfasts made her feel nauseous. She just wasn't feeling in the zone, unlike those enjoying a pre flight alcoholic beverage before five in the morning. Keen to keep herself occupied she suggest we pass through security whilst it was quiet. Nothing to be worried about there, well not for her. John however caused a bit of a stir, he'd forgotten to remove his mushroom foraging knife from his rucksack and of course it was picked up on the scanner. Everything out of the bag! Despite explaining the purpose of the knife and how much it had cost, would they allow him to keep it. I think we all know the answer to that request. So an envelope and stamps were purchased from WH Smith and the very nice security lady said she would post the package back to our home address on her way home. Could have been worse, John was still fully clothed when we arrived in the departure area! 

As we boarded the Ryanair flight Angela felt a little apprehensive. The internal dimensions of the cabin seemed a little tight and she felt a little claustrophobic. But she'd boarded. Now for the three stages of flying. Take off, she wasn't so keen on. In the air with a little turbulence, not so bad and landing, what a relief. All in all a success. This was a momentous moment! Our travel plans going forward would take us to new horizons.

Now to negotiate the Polish rail system. Tickets bought, we checked with a man on the train we were heading to the right station, and he said he'd  tell us when to get off as he wanted the same stop. All going well so far. Krakow centre was bustling and noisy and once on our own we walked a labyrinth of streets until we arrived at our hotel in the old town. Despite being two hours early to check in, we were allowed into our room. Result.

Despite being exhausted we off loaded our luggage and seemed out an Italian restaurant tucked in a back street. Ordered pizza and non alcoholic lager and settled into our holiday. But after a walk around we decided a lie down for a couple if hours would be a good idea as we'd be venturing out later to the Christmas market which is only a ten minute walk away from the hotel. 

Wrapped up against a cold wind we lost ourselves amongst the many other visitors. Many of whom were English, but also Americans and Japanese. The aroma of mulled wine, laced with vodka, so best avoided, even by wine loving Angela, as being just a little too potent, filled our nostrils. All around meat sizzled on grills. Huge sausages, pork knuckle and ribs. Very tempting. But you have to be wary, the price of them is per 100g, not per piece. Still quite full from lunch Angela bought mushroom soup with pasta in it, and John pasta Bolognese. After reading food was expensive at the market we'd been reeled in, but didn't care. You only pass this way once, best to treat yourself to the full experience. Perhaps Angela will try the mulled wine before we leave.