Miglionico

Last night, we sat under the covered seating area at the campsite, where the wi-fi signal was strongest, and enjoyed the warm evening. The family, who owned the site, had some visitors over, and they were very friendly towards us, but at the same time, respecting our privacy. This area, has been invaluable, as it has meant, we have not both been in the van, at the same time, giving a little space for everyone.

Once again, it rained heavily in the night, but this morning first thing, was fine. We had decided to move on, looking for better weather, although the forecast is not good, until next week. We left the site, just after 11 am, thanking our host, and saying we hoped to return to Pompeii, when we travel to Greece on another adventure. The family, we were staying with, had three sons, and the middle one, who was about twelve years old, had been very friendly towards us, and this morning came over and said in English, 'good morning, would you like coffee'. We were already drinking a mug, so politely declined. We wondered, if it was an excuse to practice, his already good English.

Today was a new, day, and we wondered what lay before us. Well, it didn't take long.

There is evidence of little drainage on the roads in Italy, and before we left, we waited whilst the heavens opened, and watched the deluge of rain. But is was time for us to leave, so we set off, braving the flooded road, and praying the potholes beneath were not that deep. As we left one of the faster roads, to join another, one, we were halted by flood water, probably around 2-3 feet deep. Despite, a no entry sign, being put up in the direction we wanted to travel, we followed all the other traffic ignoring it, including a lorry driver. Suddenly, he turned around, drew alongside us, and advised we did the same. We could sense, that Marge wasn't happy about all this water, lapping beneath her. So we sloshed our way through the flood waters, passing cars who were not so lucky, and headed onto totally, the wrong road, but it was a means of escape, and we were heading out of the danger zone, thankfully for Marge! All safely back on dry land, we continued our journey, travelling on more sensible, faster and wider roads, we'd already had enough drama for one day. A few miles into our trip, we drove over a very long viaduct, 'don't look down'. We could see a town, to the right of us, slightly obscured by the low cloud. With the rain sheeting down, and the visibility down to nothing, due to the low cloud, we were mindful of the sign we had seen at the bottom of the incline. 'Snow chains obligatory'. We knew we'd forgotten something! Descending down the mountain, leaving behind the endless mountain tunnels, the sun appeared, the landscape changed to rolling hills carpeted with trees of green, with harsher, rockier mountains as a back drop.

The traffic began to quieten, and we were able to travel slow enough, for John to take some photographs, of the passing landscape.

Tonight's stop is the hilltop town of Miglionico.

To get there, Marge had to slog up a large hill, sometimes having to drop down to second gear, with a top speed, of fifteen miles per hour. We are now, south of the Amalfi coast, deciding to give it a miss this trip, as the visibility was so bad, and we would have missed out on the amazing views.

Our overnight stop tonight, is outside the entrance to the cemetery. We know, should be quiet, unless of course they are all like our Marge!

By the middle of the afternoon, the threat of rain had gone, the sky turned blue, and we could feel the heat of the sun on our skin. As we are so high up, we have a great view Lagu di San Giuliano, a vast expanse of water, nestled, between the rolling hills.

We are about fifteen miles from the city of Matera, which, this year, has been recognised as a European city of culture. The caves there, are a UNESCO world heritage site. We hope to visit them tomorrow, if the roads are wide enough for Marge, and we can find somewhere to park her.

Late afternoon, we walked into the town. Everyone seemed friendly, but noted there were strangers in town. Walking through the narrow streets, we stopped as always at the church, another fantastic example.

Then, onto the Castello, which, was a beautifully, preserved building. We could hear the cries of the young jackdaws, in nests in, the hollows of the walls, their parents darting back and forth, with a continuous supply of food. Up on the terrace, we were wowed, by the view. We were glad we had visited, when the sun was out, and we could really appreciate.

In the distance, we could see the blue, of the Adriatic sea. As the sun lowered in the soft, pink, evening sky, it cast shadows across the soft rolling green, below us. we are glad we stopped here for the night.

Tonight's lighter note is, please can any of you, recommend another Italian song for John to sing. I, and the Italians, have had enough of, Joe Dolce's, 'Shaddap you Face!

Goodnight from tonight's cosy pitch.

Pompeii (Day 2)

This morning it rained, it thundered, it rained even heavier, Mount Vesuvias dipped in and out of the cloud, and the other three vans all left, So it's just us here tonight. Mid morning, the weather began to settle, and we put on our lightweight, waterproof jackets and backpacks, and set off, looking like a pair of geography teachers, on a school trip.

By the time we reached the ruins of old Pompeii, the weather had settled. We were suprised how quiet the area was, but by lunchtime, the coaches began arriving, with passengers from the cruise ships, and suddenly, we were flung into the world of tour guides and loud Americans.

We entered the site by the large amphitheatre, then viewed the nearby grapevines, whose grapes produce 1,700 bottles of wine a year, which you are unable to purchase, as the bottles are sold at auction.

The ruins were absolutely fantastic, and the realisation of what had happened here, was both unbelievable and fascinating. We could see the site was an ongoing project, with works going on all around.

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We wanted to see as much as possible, and the photo opportunities were endless, although made difficult because of the crowds of people. Stone columns, mosaic floors, wall paintings, brickwork, statues, the houses, the shops, shop signage, the streets themselves, where you could see the grooves of the cart wheels created over time, so much to take in, and then there was the brothel, tiny rooms with stone beds, very comfortable!

We heard one of the tour guides describe the image of a phallus carved in one of the large stones, that made up the road, as a pointer to the brothel for men, who'd lost their way, it seemed most of the customers were sailors from nearby boats.

After walking around the ruins for, four and a half hours, we seemed to have barely scratched the surface. With weary legs, we set off on the 30 minute walk back to Marge. Luckily, the man who owns the campsite spotted us,and stopped to offer us a lift, which we gratefully accepted.

This evening, Vesuvias looks dark and daunting, but quiet. It's unbelievable to think that its eruption all those years ago eradicated the lives of 20,000 men,women and children. Tomorrow, we will leave here, and hopefully escape the heavy rain that has plagued us the last two mornings.

On a lighter note, prosecco drinkers, it's 3.29 euros a bottle in the supermarket here, with an extra 10 percent discount if you buy six bottles.

Pompeii

It rained, nearly all through the night, so the view we were hoping for this morning, after driving part way up Mount Vesuvias, was not to be seen. Late morning, abandoning any idea of travelling further up, we set off downwards, Marge, confident, following a coach, who paved the way. Yesterday, we realised, that driving in Italy was a little bit like crossing the road in Italy, you need to get in there, so we did, whilst still remaining vigilant. Marge, being Marge, lured us into the back streets of Naples. So, incident number one, Marge had to reverse, out of the end, of a one way street, then turn right, tightly, minding the low wall, and up a gradient. Of course, the Italians are not very patient drivers, so whilst trying to reverse, they cut around in front of us, and, tried to squeeze behind us, all the time, sounding their horns. The Marge we know, would have loved all this male attention. We have worked out, that about one in fifteen of the drivers are on your side, whether you are trying to cross the road, or, waiting while you sort out your driving! After that, it was another case of 'get me out of here!'. So we followed road signs for the autostrada. Eventually, on the toll road, all was calm. Then, we exited for Pompeii. After leaving the autostrada, the roads, seemed like they'd been bombed, and because of the heavy rain, all the more dangerous. Then, incident number two. 'The bridge approaching, is too low for Marge'! 'Reverse, onto the junction'. More impatient Italian drivers, with blaring horns. So, we allowed the sat nav to re-route us. Incident number three. 'This roads narrow'. But Marge had, had, enough. The drivers coming towards her, either had to stop, or reverse back. By then, we were only about four minutes from our destination, great! Then incident number four. 'Those trees are TOO LOW! '. 'Sorry, Marge, this might be a little uncomfortable'. And then we arrived at the campsite. Greeted, by the cheerful owners, we were relieved to have arrived. We were each, given a welcome drink, of peach juice, and some fruit, a little like small peaches, from a tree in their garden. After being shown the facilities, (great, hot showers, toilet etc.), and being told information about, New and Old Pompeii, we decided to take a breath, and have our lunch, and celebrate surviving Naples. The site is a thirty minute walk from Old Pompeii, so after lunch, we took a walk out. The area, near the campsite, is very run down, and we were a little bit apprehensive about it, but twenty minutes later, we arrived at a beautiful, large church.

The painted ceiling was stunning, and impressed everyone who stepped inside to see it.

On, one of the walls, there was a painting of Ava Maria, adorned with gold jewellery, which caused a lump in the throat, and a tear in the eye, as this was Marge's favourite song as a young child.

The organ, which sat above the main door, was the best we'd ever seen, and we've seen some organs, having frequented so many churches on our travels in Europe, secretly praying that ourselves and Marge remain safe. Today, was the day, that we both thought Marge might come to grief. As usual, we were pestered by tour guides, one telling us the mini bus tour up to Mount Vesuvias was 15 euros each, when we knew from our hosts, that if you boarded it a the station it was 10 euros! On top of this, was a 10 euro, standard charge, to walk, to the crater. We are now firmly in Mafia country, and were put off one of the overnight stops, because the price was basically decided on the spot, after giving you the once over.

On our way to the large supermarket, on the edge of town, we were lucky to be rewarded with a free, sneak preview of Old Pompeii.

After, buying some provisions for tomorrow's packed lunch, we walked back to Marge. The evening was fairly warm, and after taking advantage of the on-site showers, we settled down, with a pre-dinner drink, appreciating, we had the best seat in the house, with a clear view of Mount Vesuvias.

We are looking forward to spending a couple of nights here, away from the rat race, that awaits us on Italy's roads. The Internet connection, is very poor here, so our blog may take a little while to come through, whilst we are here.

Ristorante Piana dell Ginestre, on the slopes of Mount Vesuvias

As the museum awoke this morning, and the first coach full of visitors arrived, something attracted our attention in the nearby stream.

Diving in from the bank, frogs, taking an early morning swim. In the trees above, pigeons, clumsily bounced from branch to branch. The other English couple who stayed here last night, left fairly early. They had not left their van since arriving. We could not understand why, when you could view the gardens and outdoor exhibits, even when the museum was closed. Each day, when we arrive at our overnight aire, we take great enjoyment, from taking a walk around. Just before we left this morning, we visited the museum shop, which was full of Army surplus items, some from Canada and Russia. As we made our way back to Marge, a very large military vehicle, which we deduced to be, a vehicle used to make up a floating bridge, was being loaded onto a low loader lorry.

There was much precision involved in the process, but little health and safety.

A final walk under the eucalyptus trees, on the way back to the van, we stopped to photograph the very large woodants, on the ground.

Nearby, lizards, warming themselves in the sun, with one eye open, waiting to pounce.

(picture from the Internet as we where not quick enough to take a photo)

As we drove away from the aire, we saw a Hoopoo.

As we headed south, the Italian driving became worse. Today, they've taken to heading straight at Marge, so desperate to overtake. On one dual carriageway, we saw a motorcycle overtake a small van who was already in the overtaking lane, even the van driver seemed shocked. Along the coast road, we travelled through tunnel after tunnel, through the mountains. In between two of them, we stopped to look at the amazing views, and take advantage of a photo opportunity.

Continuing on with our journey, we were finding it difficult to find somewhere to stop and have our lunch. Finally, at just after 2 pm, we pulled in to the car park of a Euro Spin Supermarket, (Italy's equivalent to Aldi). Once re-fulled, we ventured into the supermarket, for some much needed supplies. The wine was priced very reasonably, so we stocked up on that as well. Two litres of decent stuff, for less than two euros! Whilst in the supermarket, we saw a range of female bodysuits, made from sheer material. Now we know where the working girls buy their outfits!

Tonight, we should have stayed in Caserta, where there is a Roman amphitheatre. Driving into the city, it was a bit like riding into Dodge City. The area was very run down, and there were lots of dubious looking people. We found the aire, parked with the few other vans already there, and feeling more than a little vulnerable, set off in search of the entrance to the amphitheatre. In the end we gave up, the area seemed to be secured, and we weren't happy about leaving Marge. She had already attracted the attention of some east Europeans in the car park of the supermarket, looking so new and modern, against their older cars. So adopting the policy, if something doesn't feel right, it probably isn't, we left the city of Caserta. Ironically, whilst driving out, we saw a restaurant, aptly called, The Wild West. Well Marge was riding out of town! We had decided to head for an overnight stop, which had received good reviews on the internet. for its position, with great views over the bay of Naples, and the islands of Ischia, Procida and Capri.

After about a hour of very stressful driving, resulting in a very slow climb in second gear up Mount Vesuvias, with fast moving downhill traffic, narrow roads and hairpin bends, we arrived at tonight's overnight resting place. Marge had held firm, persisting slowly, whilst her driver felt increasingly unwell at the stress of it all, knowing Marge would say, 'get a grip!'. Eventually, we pulled into the car park for the Ristorante Piana dell Ginestre. After some discussion with the manager/owner, we paid 10 euros to stay the night.

We have a nice secure spot, on grass, under the trees, with views towards the bay of Naples and the islands. Just after we arrived, a group of young men turned into the parking area, in a blaze of flying gravel. They asked John if he could photograph them as a group, with the bay behind them. On leaving, there was the boyish prank of pretending to leave one of them behind, this resulted in the young mans right foot being run over, he seemed O.K. though. Whist we ate our evening meal, a group of people arrived, for what appeared to be a party for twin teenage boys They appeared to have brought an official photographer with them, but the boys seemed unwilling to meet his demands on how they should pose for his photographs. In the end he gave up.

It has been a warm day, but this evening it is raining a little. We are hoping the weather will be clear in the morning so we can obtain some good photographs of the view. Some years ago, we used to frequent an Italian restaurant in a local town. The couple, originated from the island of Capri, and on the wall in their restaurant, they'd hung a tourism poster of the island. We would never had thought all those years ago, we would be in sight of the island of Capri, ever.

Tomorrow, we will head to Pompei. Before we set off, we may drive further up Mount Vesuvias, park, and take a walk. The volcano, has not erupted since 1944, and is constantly monitored, but hey, what a fantastic photo opportunity! Behind Marge is some molten, fossilised lava, how cool is that?

Outside, we can hear the fireworks going off in Naples. From our position, we can see just how vast the city is. We have decided not to visit it, but enjoy it from up here on the mountain.

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