Saint-Cyr-Sur-Le-Rhone, Rhone-Alpes

At the aire last night a large six-wheeled German van set up his satellite receiver on a stand, and arranged his plant pots near to it. Talk about home from home.

That's the great thing about aires, always something entertaining happening around you. Joking aside, this aire had been perfect. Beautiful view, nice clean on-site toilet and relatively quiet neighbours.

By the time we departed this morning, just before nine, early for us, at least half the vans had left. Today promised to be yet another scorcher, and by ten after we'd stopped at the supermarket and the Decathlon sports shop it was already 18c. We'd planned a shorter day driving, but our drive over the hills of the Rhone-Alpes was both beautiful and slow. Along the way, at La Clayette, we stopped to look at the chateau de Bourgogne.

It looked stunning, backdropped by a picture postcard blue sky. Soon the pine forests and pretty villages gave way to a fast 'A' road that swallowed us up. As we approached Lyon the signage confused Angela and she took the wrong road. Of course we then had to drive miles out of our way before setting Margery back on course. We have driven through Lyon before. It is busy, congested and chaotic. Eventually the city released us and we found ourselves a couple of miles south just outside the town of Vienne.

Since two, we have been parked in a riverside carpark. The impressive Rhone river silently edging by.

River cruise boats glide elegantly past, whilst men on jet skis and motorised surf boards which emit a sound like an angry wasp, annoy us. By six-thirty the noisy revellers left, leaving us to take stock of the day and plan tomorrow's drive to Avignon. It feels strange to be parked right by the Via Rhona cycle path. We can hardly believe we cycled along here just seventeen months ago. Today the cycle path has been very busy with tourers, and we feel a little envious. It is very hot now, 25c, so once again we will aim for an early start tomorrow, as we're sure the cyclists will want to as well.

Molinet, Saone-et-Loire

Up at seven again this morning. Angela's calf muscles had been cramping all night, so she dressed and set off for a walk up to the chateau.

The sun was rising over the Loire lighting the vapor trails that crisscrossed the clear early morning sky. Beautiful.

Today we were heading south towards the Saone region. As yesterday, we arrived at today's destination by lunchtime. The one available campingcar space at the aire overlooking the canal was taken by a car. This always infuriates us. It's an area for campervans and motorhomes, not cars! After half an hour John approached the driver who seemed flumoxed by John words and waving of arms. Angela sat in Margery, understanding the waving of arms. After a short while the man left. Probably muttering 'bloody English'. With Margery settled alongside the canal lateral a la Loire, we took a breath, and ate lunch.

Of course we have cycled along this canal in the past, when we cycled to Switzerland. So for old times sake we mounted our Bromptons, our haunches and knees complaining from yesterday's ride. 

Dare we complain it is too hot, probably not, but all the French, Germans, Swiss a Swedes soaked up the sun as they sat outside their vans. We sweated all the way to the Aldi supermarket and back.

Sully-Sur-Loire, Lorient

Cycling alongside a section of the Loire river was always on today's agenda. But the light rain that fell yesterday evening returned this morning at eight and wasn't due to clear until around one o'clock. So we packed up and left just after nine to drive further along the river to a town where the weather was showing as being sunny and warm.

The drive took us through many pretty and interesting villages, always a slow drive because of the twenty and thirty miles per hour speed limits and lots of traffic calming. 

Our early start paid off though, and we arrived at Sully Sir Loire at lunchtime, securing a great spot overlooking the river.

Lunch eaten, yet another healthy salad, we unpacked our Bromptons bicycles, slid on some lycra shorts and set off straight into a headwind, as always. The temperature was now 24c, making the hard cycle more tolerable. After a distance we felt respectable considering this was our first cycle out in five months, we returned to Margery. Used the facilities, (yes our trusty Boxio compost loo is with us), and cycled down past the chateau to the opposite coffee shop.

The last time we visited here was in 2022 when we cycled to Basel on the Swiss border with France. Tired, but also elated, we returned to the van. Our buttocks, knees and someone's 'quinny', were a little uncomfortable, but more cycling would cure that.

Our neighbors for the night were German. We struck up conversation with them, and soon Trump, or 'the orange one', as he's commonly known became the topic. 

This evening, the first of hopefully many warm evenings to come, we walked back into town in search of rosemary for John's omelette, to accompany the chives he'd foraged earlier whilst out cycling.

By now, we were tired from our early start, cycling and walking. But also felt elated. Being by the river Loire is one of our happy places.

Cuckoo Pint or Lords and Ladies, an interesting plant to find, but never try eating. 

Dampierre-Sur-Loire, Maine-et-Loire

Our first night in Margery now under our belt, we can see our packing needs a few tweaks. But so far so good. The making up of the bed in the pop top, and the packing of the bedding away this morning was plain sailing. Angela bought two large lightweight waterproof bags from Amazon and between the two they accommodate our duvet, mattress topper and cover and four pillows. Job done! Organisation in Muddy Marge was key, and the same applies in Margery. Today we'd decided to drive down to the Loire valley. Because of bad weather forecast for northern Spain and Portugal over the next two weeks we thought it best to change our trip and drive it in reverse. So we are heading towards South East France where we will cross the border into Spain.

Settled in for a long drive, we took in the beautiful French countryside as we meandered along slow roads before finding ourselves on a fast road bowling along with views of the Mont St. Michel.

It seemed like only yesterday we headed in the opposite direction in Muddy Marge, not last October.

 

Our lunch stop at the Eleclerc supermarket made for a welcome break. Yet more 'healthy' food was purchased, but first we needed to find the toilet. The English had arrived...needing the loo! Once again the wind blew, and our planned stop by the river Loire was abandoned.

A short drive further along past Samur and it's striking chateau took us to the familiar former municipal campsite at Dampierre-Sur-Loire. We've stayed here a few times. It used to be free. Now £5.88 all in, for us and the van. With the bonus of two toilets and a shower. Bargain! Despite another beautiful warm day, this evening is wet. But the forecast is looking good for tomorrow late morning, so we are thinking of staying a second night and cycling out along the Loire. Always a joy. 

Marigny, Normandy

How on earth we managed to pack Margery, yes Margery, not Marge, (she's a little bit posh) in readiness to leave, we don't know, but she was packed to the rafters by six in the evening when we readied ourselves to walk into Poole old town for a Thai meal, which incidentally was delicious.

On the walk back, we spotted some writing across the window of a campervan, it read, 'Life can't wait'. We had to agree with that!

We were up just before six the following morning, yet a few more items were squeezed into the van before we decided enough was enough.

A short drive to the port and by seven thirty Margery was pulled over by security. We don't know why, but we are often stopped, whether in a vehicle or on our bicycles. We were removed from the van, our bodies scanned and an official jumped in Margery to poke about. She wanted to look in her rear, but decided against it when she saw all our luggage. Touch Margery's rear, and there'll be trouble! We'd been one of the first to arrive at the ferry terminal, but after a long wait we were loaded at the end along with the other Volkswagens and a Japanese campervan that snuck alongside Margery. Not too close please.

As always the ferry crossing was long and boring, and with the sea state being moderate, a little uncomfortable.

So our stop tonight we decided would be at the pretty fishing village of Barfleur around eighteen miles drive sway. Or perhaps not. It had been a gorgeous blue sky day, but the wind was a little too keen. So we drove further down the Contentin peninsula where we found a sheltered aire to stop at in a nice town called Marigny.

This would be our first night sleeping in Margery hopefully it would be both comfortable and peaceful. Presiding over the site was a large imposing church. What we didn't anticipate was that the bells up in the bell tower would ring out not just on the hour, but every fifteen minutes, all through the night. In the campervan and motorhome world, stops like this are noted as being 'hells bells', and these didn't disappoint.