Agadir, Morocco (day 5)

Early to bed, early to rise once again. Our pick up from the hotel was scheduled for nine o'clock. Nine came and went. By nine-thirty we decided to contact the tour agent by phone, but to no avail. So we asked the receptionist at the hotel to help us. Her English was not good, so we gave up. Fortunately the doorman overheard and took over, speaking to the company we'd booked our tour through. Apparently, the vehicle picking us up had broken down. Had it really,? If so why no text message telling us this. We were assured a vehicle was now on its way to collect us. Just after ten a taxi arrived, but the driver was looking for a person with a different surname to ours, but for our destination, which was the Sous Massa Safari Park, north of Sidi Ifni, with lunch at a local restaurant afterwards. After some communication by phone it seemed the taxi was here for us. Thus ensued a slow journey along a road that was not always suitable for the taxi. Eventually we arrived. Our tour guide awaited us, along with an Irish couple who'd been waiting for an hour for us to arrive. We could sense the trip advisor rating dropping. The truth was, the driver had forgotten, or not been told to collect us. We weren't sure which. But hey we were here now. Let's go see some animals. The Safari park Angela knew had been talked up on the internet. But the chance to see Flamingos,  Ostrich, Oryx, Gazelles and Adax including a newborn was something she thought would be nice. And it was.

The Irish couple were good company and our driver was friendly, informative and drove safely.

And lunch was good as well. You guessed it, chicken tanjine. Driving out from the hotel these last two days has given us an insight to the area. People are friendly and courteous. Smart hotels and apartments sit alongside humble dwellings. The unchanging landscape of sand and yet more sand whilst travelling is a little monotonous, but passing through villages and witnessing the day to day living of the people is interesting. Eating out is cheap, and of course the weather much nicer than England, even though the early mornings are fresh and we have to wait until late morning for the sun to warm us. Then the temperature is between 67c and 70c. Something we find hard on the eye is the amount of rubbish everywhere. Especially glass and plastic bottles. These are strewn everywhere, piled high at the base of trees in some areas. There is no evidence of refuge collection and certainly no recycling. Rubbish seems to be disposed of by burning it out in the open. But we feel safe and happy to be here experiencing a whole new culture. In fact we have felt comfortable here since the day after we arrived. It's was just a case of getting used to the people and our surroundings and the workings of the country. Angela is cautious by nature, fearful and worried about things that might never happen. Visiting Morocco has opened her eyes a little, albeit not yet cured her. Hopefully time will take care of that. 

Agadir, Morocco (day 4)

Up before the sun, we were down for breakfast at seven thirty. The dining room was in darkness. It appears that breakfast now begins at eight. Shame nobody bothered to amend the details on the hotel website. So at eight we returned, hastily ate and drank to be ready for our pick up at eight thirty. Message from driver, pick-up now eight forty. We were exhausted before even leaving the building. Our driver liked to be called Simba, yes, after the lion king. Already in his slightly battered Mitsubishi 4 x 4 were an Indian family. Mum and three daughters. As we set off on our journey into the unknown we all chatted with ease. First stop, the river where at least twenty other similar vehicles joined us.

The day continued. Stopping and starting at various random destinations.

A silversmiths, honey/argan oil shop, viewpoints, by a beach with troglodytes dwellings where fisherman lived, and of course a stop in the Sahara desert.

Not a great big expanse of the Sahara, but an area known as Little Sahara.

Awaiting us were camels to ride, traditional heads scarfs to buy and a photo opportunity with reptiles. Not for Angela. After a while though, she thought why not. Not like her at all. Eighty pence well spent. Time had passed by quickly, and we moved across to the village opposite for lunch. Yet more chicken tangine, cous cous and mint tea. Then a stop at a nearby dam followed, where the water level could be seen to be much lower than it should. There has been no rain in the region for six years. The water supply for all the hotels in Agadir is sourced from the sea. Desalinated first of course. The day had been a strange one. But enjoyable. We'd met lots of nice people from other countries. Seen more of the real Morocco, including some campsites. Now know the Moroccans are crazy drivers who are happy to take your life in their hands. But the day though belonged to our Indian ladies seven year old daughter. At lunch we talked of our plans over the next ten years and the fact there is still so much world to see before perhaps our health dictated otherwise. The little girl said she thought we looked O.K. to her, and she didn't think we were going to die yet. Good to know. Could we have that in writing please! 

Agadir, Morocco (day 3)

'Feel the fear, but do it anyway', are Angela's latest words of wisdom. So today it was time for her to practice what she preached, gird her loins, and take the cable car up to the Agadir Ouffela cable car station, 1756 feet above the commercial fishing port. So off we set on the hour long walk, taking in the beach and smart hotels. Leaving behind the quieter area where our hotel is.

Suddenly we felt we'd arrived on the Costa del Sol, Spain. Today though, no stopping to dip our toes in the waters of the Atlantic. Angela had to take the trip, she herself planned, up to the Kasbah.

Nerves peaking, she decided eyes right and left and not up or down was the answer to avoiding a full on panic attack. John commented, that if James Bond was with us he'd probably be up on the roof of our car, or gondola as it should be referred to. Ironically our return gondola was numbered 007.

Eight minutes of nerve-racking  discomfort, and underwear still dry, we arrived.

The kasbah at the top affords spectacular views along the coast and towards the mountains. Until an earthquake in 1960 within it's walls lived a peaceful community. Now it's the towns most visited attraction.

And of course we were offered camel rides, photographs with small sad looking horses and trinkets from sellers. There's no escaping the persistence of the Moroccan people whose lives depend on pushing their wares. And who could really blame them?

Another eight minutes of hell for Angela and she was happily back on terra firma. Now time for lunch, we googled some local restaurants and found one that looked like it would suit us. Olives and bread and a tangine of delicious chicken with olives and preserved lemon.

We sat outside the restaurant in a shady spot and listened to the call to prayer from the nearby mosque. A young waiter rushed out the door with his mat to partake. Our host was pleasant and fun. Finding it highly amusing when Angela asked if there was a toilet she could use. Pointing across the road to the bushes sent him into convulsive laughter. That wouldn't worry Angela. She's visited many a bush whilst cycle touring. But today wasn't the time or place, so she used his restaurant loo. Now we are tired, having walked around 15,000 steps. Tomorrow we are off on a 4 x 4 trip to the Sahara desert. A much more preferred mode of transport for Angela. Lunch is included, so probably another tangine (no eyeballs for John, please).

Agadir, Morocco (day 2)

Despite an early night, this morning we were still tired. But determined to begin exploring the area we ventured down to the restaurant for breakfast where a continental selection was laid out, complete with that all time favourite breakfast food, pizza! Not seen that before! We both thought today it would be a good idea to take a walk to the nearby Souk El Had, an indoor market of around 6,000 stalls. Five minutes into the half hour walk a man joined us. Of course his English was very good, and he talked all the time he walked with us, which unnerved us a little so we kept a discreet lookout at what was going on around us as we followed him to the Souk, where he of course led us straight to his friends spice stall! We'd been reeled in, as we thought we were probably going to be. Following advice on the internet we politely listened whilst we were talked through the benefits of the different spices. Thanking the stall holder for his time, we left empty handed.

From then on as we wandered through stalls selling furniture, argan oil, dates and nuts, sweets, toys, clothing, footwear, ceramics, cows heads and infact almost any item you might want to purchase, we were constantly approached by the stall holders asking us to look, try and buy. Most weren't pushy though, and we made sure we thanked them all as we passed by.

Around midday, out heads in a spin with the full attack on all our senses, we stopped for coffee and mint tea. Wanting to relax a little, Angela wanted to stretch her legs out, but daren't for fear of leaning back and dislodging the obvious hairpiece worn by the man sat behind her. We discussed what we would like to buy at the market and thought an item of ceramics might be nice. Even though it might not be produced locally, it would make a nice memento of our visit here. We particularly like the large round plates, but transportation home might be a problem. With only cabin baggage, measurements would need to be checked before we decided. Upon our arrival at the market we'd stopped at a food stall to look at a row of earthenware tangine cooking.

Deciding it would be nice to eat an authentic Moroccan dish for lunch we returned there and ordered one chicken and one vegetable. It was delicious, and with a side of bread and lentils cost only £5.60 for us both. 

Leaving the Souk we sidestepped two Gharrib's,  brightly dressed men who move through the crowds ringing bells and calling out, offering water from their filled goatskin bags and brass cups. Returning to our hotel mid afternoon we were well and truly pooped. Cheese, olives and crackers bought for a light meal tonight, we couldn't wait to dress in lighter cooler clothing and relax. Today our first proper day in Agadir had gone well. Tomorrow we will probably stay local again, but also book a couple of trips out further a field for later in the week. Our hotel manager has been persistent in insisting we book through him, but before we decide we will put our trust in good old Google!