Krakow, Poland (day 5)

When you are looking forward to something it's a little easier to raise yourself of a morning. We'd read and heard lots of positive comments about Wieliczka Salt Mine and were looking forward to our visit. So an early breakfast. Scrambled eggs and toast for Angela, scrambled eggs and, wait for it, coleslaw for some of the other guests. Not sure about that one! At 9.28 am our driver Adam arrived at the hotel. We were his only pick up of the day, so it was just the three of us in an eight seater mini bus. Leaving the city Adam drove us through areas we had already walked, and then areas new to us further out. Adam was both charming and informative, and we were pleased we had the pleasure of being his clients for the day. His attentiveness and knowledge made our trip to and from the salt mines pass with ease. He even stood with us in the entry queue until we entered the building. Since we arrived in Krakow we have been impressed by the kindness, helpfulness and welcome of the people here. We have also been impressed by the cleanliness. Unlike Poole, you don't need to watch where you place your feet each step, and the public toilets are immaculate. Well worth the 38 pence paid to use them. Shame about Brexit.  Why on earth did we drive these people away when they contributed so much to our economy. Their work ethic is second to none. At the mine we were sucked into a group of around thirty people. Our English speaking guide encouraged us to keep up, quipping she was only allowed to lose ten percent of the group. We began at the rear of the group alongside six Americans, who were like naughty schoolchildren. We didn't mind, they made us laugh.

The Wieliczka Salt Mine was absolutely fascinating. The sheer size of it mind-blowing, and we saw only one percent of the site.

The highlight, St. Kinga's Chapel which you can hire for weddings. Goodness knows what the cost would be? All the sculptures in the mine are carved out of salt. In this chapel, which took seventy years to complete, the carving of the last supper is amazing. Even the chandeliers are salt. And if the fancy takes you, you can lick the walls, the guide actually encouraged you to do so. Then after nearly three hours of walking down eight hundred steps, three hundred and thirty at the start, you are returned to street level, one hundred and thirty five meters up, via the old miners shaft in the original lift cage that held eight miners.

Today, it felt very snug with four adults, two young children, and Angela who counts as a half adult. Adam was waiting for us when we exited the building and returned us safely back to our hotel.

This evening a last walk around the Christmas market, buying a couple of items before eating once again at Dolabella Due. At the table next to us a young couple who wanted to own their own home. So we talked property. He was from Bournemouth and the head office of the company he worked for was in Amersham, an area we know well. Unbelievable. Enjoying the restaurants fantastic food whilst chatting, our allotted time of an hour and a half at the table ran into two. The waiter brought us complimentary hazelnut liqueurs, which Angela drank sceptically. Tonight Krakow old town is heaving. Christmas is just around the corner and the holidays have begun. Light snow is forecast during the night, so hopefully we'll see some before we leave tomorrow. It would be a perfect end to our time here.

Krakow, Poland (day 4)

As we headed down to breakfast this morning the lady who services our floor in the hotel was as cheery as always. Behind the smile, she was probably wondering what awaited her in our room. A few familiar faces from breakfast yesterday, thankfully the 'entitled' weren't there, so plenty of food for everyone. Once again we considered our lunch. Could we? Should we? Would we? Today is our fourth day in Krakow. We can't believe how quickly time has passed by. There is much to see, but as we walk everywhere we can really only consider one attraction a day, along with stopping off to look at anything else that takes our fancy.

Today we headed to Oscar Schindler's Enamel Factory which was a fair walk away right on the other side of the river.

First though a stop at St. Mary's Basilica in the old town. A stunning piece of architecture which is absolutely beautiful inside. Leaving this area it takes no time at all to see a different side to Krakow. Away from the touristy bit, you step into the Krakow of the people who live and work here. What a contrast. The film Schindler's List was filmed mostly in Krakow, and the enamel factory Oscar Schindler ran is now a museum dedicated to his work and the lives of his Jewish workforce.

It was interesting, but the lighting was poor, which made it difficult to read all the information boards. Back at the old town, yet more visitors were arriving. We bought 5O0 grammes of Turkish delight to take home. That's a lot of Turkish delight! Christmas here doesn't appear to start officially until this weekend. Unlike England, where you can purchase Christmas cards from August bank holiday. It really has become crazy busy here so we booked a table again for tonight at the Thai restaurant, and one at the Italian for tomorrow. Sadly, we'll not have a chance to eat a plate of Polish sausage with potatoes, sauerkraut and gherkins at the Christmas market. Shame, not. Our Thai meal last night with drinks cost less than two plates of this local delicacy.  Tomorrow we have an early start, up at seven. We're really looking forward to visiting the Wieliczk Salt Mine. This will be our main trip of the holiday. Now an aperitif before our evening meal. Not vodka though. Unbelievably at the little supermarket near to our hotel they sell thirty eight different varieties. How could you choose?

Krakow, Poland (day 3)

Prior to setting off on our trip to Krakow we both suffered chest infections. Angela is still coughing now three weeks on. This morning she stumbled into the bathroom for yet another bout of coughing and nose blowing. Too lazy, or perhaps too cost conscious she didn't bother switching the light on. A few minutes later the bathroom resembled a crime scene. Blood on the floor, in the wash hand basin and on the white, yes white towel, fortunately not too much. Yesterday evening she'd managed to drop chocolate on the white duvet cover. Goodness knows what the housekeeping team would think. And what is it with hotels and white towels and linen? Hardly practical is it?  We were a few minutes later arriving for breakfast than yesterday. The hotel seemed busier this morning, especially with young families. The problem with a buffet style breakfast is the, we've paid for it, so we're having it attitude. Plates piled with cold meat and bread adorned many of the tables, most of which wasn't touched. What a waste. We both had the same idea, if this type of behavior was allowed, and nobody did anything to curtail it, then a few rolls and some cheese wouldn't be missed. That was lunch sorted. If you can't beat them, join them. 

For the first time since we arrived the sun made an appearance. The forecast for the next two days is very good, and our new very warm gloves and hats won't be required. But before venturing out we booked an excursion to the Wieliczka Salt Mine for Friday. So that should be fun. The only downside, we'll need to be up early, the transport leaves just after nine. Today we planned to walk down to Wawel Royal Castle, dating back to the 14th century. What a place, grand and imposing standing on a rocky outcrop overlooking the river Vistula.

We walked around the grounds, marvelled at the architecture, checked out the Wawel dragon, a bronze statue standing 660 cm high.

Then stopped at the cathedral where we talked to the guide about the three bones from a mammoth, hippopotamus and whale from the end of the ice age that hung to one side of the cathedrals main entrance.

Myth says, if they fall from the chains that hold them up, the world will end. The last time they fell was the the day before world war two began!

The daylight hours are short here, and as we sat drinking hot drinks at the Christmas market the sky began to resemble burning coals in a grate. Our companions were a young English couple, she was a physiotherapist at Bournemouth hospital. Small world. This evening we have booked a table at a Thai restaurant just a stones throw from our hotel.

Most of the restaurants here seem to serve traditional polish cuisine, Indian, Chinese and Thai restaurants are very few. However Thai  massage is prevalent, hidden down many of the side passages we pass when out walking. Let's hope the restaurant isn't just a cover. Mind you after so much walking, a massage might be just the tonic for our aching hips. Becoming old, isn't for the faint hearted.