Loch Lochy Viewpoint, Letter Finlay, near Spean Bridge

Around seven yesterday evening a small van with signage for Highland council pulled into the parking area. The lady driver turned out to be a local ranger and came over to speak with us as we had our rear door open. We spoke for well over an hour, telling her of problems we thought needed addressing with regard to the many vans in the area, and she spoke about plans in place to address some of them. She was quite taken with our Boxio toilet, which fortunately we'd emptied earlier. Her accent was a little unclear at first, but then we realized she was French. Obviously we were curious as to why she would want to swap her home town near Bordeaux with cold, wet, windy Scotland. She'd been up here now for many years and loved it. Oh well, each to their own. After another cold, wet windy night we awoke to see the seals on the nearby sand flats. There are definitely less than we've seen on our previous visits, perhaps they're fed up with the cold as well and have moved to warmer climes.

The cold is starting to become an issue, and Angela thought we should give up on going to the north and west of Scotland. Heavy rain and winds are due to roll in off the Atlantic for a few days and it just seemed to miserable to stay. We will return to the area sometime next year with our higher tog duvet and when the weather is more settled as we can see no point in driving busy narrow potholed single tracked roads in appalling weather when the clouds would be low obscuring the mountains? 

So today we've driven back towards Fort William. It seemed a little warmer around Loch Ness, very busy with visitors all in search of the illusive monster. Once again we could drive straight through the area having seen the sights and attractions before. Trees, glens, mountains, lochs, waterfalls and crumbling stone walls topped with fresh green ferns like native Indian headdresses are our interest.

Tonight's stop at the viewpoint car park for Loch Lochy is not the sort we would normally choose to stay at as it's next to the A82 to Fort William. But it being Sunday tomorrow we hope the early traffic will be light. There are quite a few other vans here with us as free overnight stops in the area are limited. We managed a very short walk out, stopping to look at the waterfall. If course it keeps raining, but the forecast for tomorrow shows the weather settling after lunch. We are going to head back to Ardurmuchan and then onto Mull. No doubt the weather won't play ball, but we can only hope it will settle and warm up a little. The ranger yesterday told us there was snow on the nearby mountains which is totally unseasonable, as is the cold. We've been away four weeks now and really hope the weather improves dramatically. Good luck to everyone driving the NC500, we hope you get to take in the amazing views on offer, but for us we are lucky to have the choice and time to return at our leisure.

Impressive Dryads Saddles.

Skelbo

At midday we left Fortrose. We'd enjoyed staying there, but as everyday we wished the weather had been warmer and more settled. The cold is starting to wear us down. But we know we're not alone, everyone we meet along the way feels the same way. We are waiting to move back across to the West Coast, but the weather over there is appalling, with snow forecast today. We will probably slowly start moving across tomorrow, as from Sunday conditions looks a little better.

Today our drive took us up past the Cromarty Firth where redundant  oil rigs and platforms stood ghost like in the gloom. Our chosen overnight stop a little further on turned out to be a no. Checking on search for sites Angela realized we were near to Skelbo where we've stayed twice before and where you can seal watch from your vehicle.

There is one other van here, a beautiful VW T25/T3 Synchro Vanagon. We talked awhile with the couple, from Canada, before cooking our evening meal and settling down for the night. The sun made an appearance, and the wind dropped, but we know a heatwave is not about to arrive anytime soon. Sadly.

Fortrose ( day 2)

We really enjoyed our anniversary meal at the Anderson Gastro Pub. The food was fantastic. The atmosphere great. The dining area in the pubs whisky bar, (250 on offer), of just eight tables made it both intimate and sociable.

By the end of the evening we were in conversation with the couple opposite who'd just retired and were spending three weeks driving the NC500 staying at bed and breakfasts. Plenty of walking for them then!

As for us we had yet another day to explore the area. We walked down to the pretty village of Rosemarkie stopping at Crofters restaurant for refreshment. Then took the long walk up to the Fairy Glen to see the waterfalls. The path was muddy and in places sucked at our boots. But the scramble up was worth it. By now the waves of rain and hail had ceased and the temperature climbed just a little. Back in the village John bought a scotch pie and cheese and onion pasty at the little Spar shop. We sat by the beach, the sand coloured pink by the nearby red sandstone. Behind us swallows and sand martins darted and dived feeding off small airborne insects. Suddenly it was warm. Dressed in waterproofs we began to feel like a couple of boil in the bag meals. But we didn't complain. No rain, no hail and sunshine. We'd waited a long time. But back at Marge the wind continued to gust. We talked to our neighbour whose wife had a fall the day before and had broken a rib. He wasn't sure if they'd carry on with their holiday or return to their home in Yorkshire. He'd like to stay as the weather was nicer here! Was he joking!

Not wanting to leave the area without seeing some dolphins we took a walk down to Chanonry Point just after seven in the evening. As we stood with other anticipating dolphin spotters the wind blew cold. Suddenly a shout went up and there near to the shore were a pod of dolphins, graceful and majestic, dipping and rolling on the grey waters of the rising tide. Before decent photographs could be taken they swam away seeking out food in the churning ocean. We've seen dolphins before, but not close by. Brilliant. We'd just wished the sea had been calmer, but hey, we saw the dolphins.

Fortrose

The overnight stop at Aberfeldey was a good one. Fantastic toilet and showers on site for just a small donation. We highly recommend it. Whilst Angela was taking her shower this morning another van pulled in next to us. The man told John about a campsite overlooking the Moray Firth where you could watch the dolphins twice a day. The weather supposedly better still in the east we set off to it. The site sounded perfect. Our drive along the fast moving A9 cut through the Cairngorms National Park.

Welcome to the Highlands the sign said. Welcome back to the heavy rain, we said. Just over two hours after setting off from Aberfeldey we were at Inverness where we crossed the bridge spanning Beauly Firth. Shortly after a hailstorm hit. Balls of ice bounced and tumbled over Marge's bonnet. Come on weather, sort yourself out for goodness sake? Half an hour later we arrived at Fortrose Bay Campsite. The long drive paid off as there were a few unbooked spaces still available on the site. The sun shone, but the wind blew a hoolie, we didn't mind. It wasn't raining.

Our pitch on the site is right by the beach with views back across the Moray Firth and down to Chanonry Point where it is possible to spot dolphins on the rising tide twice a day.

Today is our twenty-fifth wedding anniversary, so we walked into town and booked a table at the The Anderson gastro pub. Walking back we stopped to look at the church and the remains of the beautiful red sandstone cathedral built for the bishops of Ross in the early thirteenth century. It is said, that it was partially dismantled by Cromwell to build his citadel in Inverness in the mid 1600's. Shame.

Early this evening the weather was beautiful, but not for long, the rain lashing down once again. We've been told you can experience four seasons weather in one day in Scotland, we can now believe it. But we must quit moaning, our Dutch neighbours have a very small MSR tent which they share with their dog. It reminds us of our cycle camping trips. Suddenly our Marge feels very spacious.

This little chap has become quite attached to us after being released from a gate lock in Aberfeldy.

Aberfeldey

This morning, as expected the rain returned, but not too heavy. We'd enjoyed our evening at Red Squirrel camping and think it's probably our number one campsite. Not that we stay at many. We have decided today to head east in search of more settled weather, which meant we yet again got to drive through the Great Glen. Stopping at a viewpoint for Angela to relieve herself we found ourselves surrounded by a coachful of Japanese tourists. OMG. Hold it in Angela! Sat in Marge we watched as each and everyone one of them took many photographs of themselves and each other, photos that would no doubt be on Instagram by the end of the day.

Leaving behind the mad crazy hotspot in the Highlands we found a place to pull over. Angela more comfortable John pointed out the hikers walking along the path on the slopes behind her. Their story at tonight's accommodation, 'we saw a full moon whilst walking through the Loch Lomond National Park!'.

All morning the weather teased us, sunny, then windy, then wet. We stopped for lunch in the village of Killin, afterwards taking a walk along the river Tay. Last year we came on a pack rafting course here, and were told beavers had set up a lodge here, which was confirmed by the tell tale signs of felled trees, stripped branches and gnawed tree trunks.

Today there was no fresh evidence that they were still there, so we guessed they'd moved on.

Tonight we are staying outside the premises of Beyond Adventure in Aberfeldey. In front of us is a very well kept cemetery. Either side we have overland vehicles, one from Germany, the other from Italy. The Italian has had his diesel heater running since he arrived, and no doubt will have it running all night. Across the parking home is a motorhome from Sweden.

This evening we walked into town, stopping to take a look at the Dewars distillery. This was the first evening we'd been able to take a walk for a very long time. It wasn't warm, but it was sunny. Upon our return we spotted a dipper down in the river Tay that runs by near to us. Paella cooked and eaten, despite it feeling fresh we were able to sit in Marge with the back door open. Tomorrow we will check the weather forecast yet again before we decide on our next destination.