Fortrose ( day 2)

We really enjoyed our anniversary meal at the Anderson Gastro Pub. The food was fantastic. The atmosphere great. The dining area in the pubs whisky bar, (250 on offer), of just eight tables made it both intimate and sociable.

By the end of the evening we were in conversation with the couple opposite who'd just retired and were spending three weeks driving the NC500 staying at bed and breakfasts. Plenty of walking for them then!

As for us we had yet another day to explore the area. We walked down to the pretty village of Rosemarkie stopping at Crofters restaurant for refreshment. Then took the long walk up to the Fairy Glen to see the waterfalls. The path was muddy and in places sucked at our boots. But the scramble up was worth it. By now the waves of rain and hail had ceased and the temperature climbed just a little. Back in the village John bought a scotch pie and cheese and onion pasty at the little Spar shop. We sat by the beach, the sand coloured pink by the nearby red sandstone. Behind us swallows and sand martins darted and dived feeding off small airborne insects. Suddenly it was warm. Dressed in waterproofs we began to feel like a couple of boil in the bag meals. But we didn't complain. No rain, no hail and sunshine. We'd waited a long time. But back at Marge the wind continued to gust. We talked to our neighbour whose wife had a fall the day before and had broken a rib. He wasn't sure if they'd carry on with their holiday or return to their home in Yorkshire. He'd like to stay as the weather was nicer here! Was he joking!

Not wanting to leave the area without seeing some dolphins we took a walk down to Chanonry Point just after seven in the evening. As we stood with other anticipating dolphin spotters the wind blew cold. Suddenly a shout went up and there near to the shore were a pod of dolphins, graceful and majestic, dipping and rolling on the grey waters of the rising tide. Before decent photographs could be taken they swam away seeking out food in the churning ocean. We've seen dolphins before, but not close by. Brilliant. We'd just wished the sea had been calmer, but hey, we saw the dolphins.

Fortrose

The overnight stop at Aberfeldey was a good one. Fantastic toilet and showers on site for just a small donation. We highly recommend it. Whilst Angela was taking her shower this morning another van pulled in next to us. The man told John about a campsite overlooking the Moray Firth where you could watch the dolphins twice a day. The weather supposedly better still in the east we set off to it. The site sounded perfect. Our drive along the fast moving A9 cut through the Cairngorms National Park.

Welcome to the Highlands the sign said. Welcome back to the heavy rain, we said. Just over two hours after setting off from Aberfeldey we were at Inverness where we crossed the bridge spanning Beauly Firth. Shortly after a hailstorm hit. Balls of ice bounced and tumbled over Marge's bonnet. Come on weather, sort yourself out for goodness sake? Half an hour later we arrived at Fortrose Bay Campsite. The long drive paid off as there were a few unbooked spaces still available on the site. The sun shone, but the wind blew a hoolie, we didn't mind. It wasn't raining.

Our pitch on the site is right by the beach with views back across the Moray Firth and down to Chanonry Point where it is possible to spot dolphins on the rising tide twice a day.

Today is our twenty-fifth wedding anniversary, so we walked into town and booked a table at the The Anderson gastro pub. Walking back we stopped to look at the church and the remains of the beautiful red sandstone cathedral built for the bishops of Ross in the early thirteenth century. It is said, that it was partially dismantled by Cromwell to build his citadel in Inverness in the mid 1600's. Shame.

Early this evening the weather was beautiful, but not for long, the rain lashing down once again. We've been told you can experience four seasons weather in one day in Scotland, we can now believe it. But we must quit moaning, our Dutch neighbours have a very small MSR tent which they share with their dog. It reminds us of our cycle camping trips. Suddenly our Marge feels very spacious.

This little chap has become quite attached to us after being released from a gate lock in Aberfeldy.

Aberfeldey

This morning, as expected the rain returned, but not too heavy. We'd enjoyed our evening at Red Squirrel camping and think it's probably our number one campsite. Not that we stay at many. We have decided today to head east in search of more settled weather, which meant we yet again got to drive through the Great Glen. Stopping at a viewpoint for Angela to relieve herself we found ourselves surrounded by a coachful of Japanese tourists. OMG. Hold it in Angela! Sat in Marge we watched as each and everyone one of them took many photographs of themselves and each other, photos that would no doubt be on Instagram by the end of the day.

Leaving behind the mad crazy hotspot in the Highlands we found a place to pull over. Angela more comfortable John pointed out the hikers walking along the path on the slopes behind her. Their story at tonight's accommodation, 'we saw a full moon whilst walking through the Loch Lomond National Park!'.

All morning the weather teased us, sunny, then windy, then wet. We stopped for lunch in the village of Killin, afterwards taking a walk along the river Tay. Last year we came on a pack rafting course here, and were told beavers had set up a lodge here, which was confirmed by the tell tale signs of felled trees, stripped branches and gnawed tree trunks.

Today there was no fresh evidence that they were still there, so we guessed they'd moved on.

Tonight we are staying outside the premises of Beyond Adventure in Aberfeldey. In front of us is a very well kept cemetery. Either side we have overland vehicles, one from Germany, the other from Italy. The Italian has had his diesel heater running since he arrived, and no doubt will have it running all night. Across the parking home is a motorhome from Sweden.

This evening we walked into town, stopping to take a look at the Dewars distillery. This was the first evening we'd been able to take a walk for a very long time. It wasn't warm, but it was sunny. Upon our return we spotted a dipper down in the river Tay that runs by near to us. Paella cooked and eaten, despite it feeling fresh we were able to sit in Marge with the back door open. Tomorrow we will check the weather forecast yet again before we decide on our next destination.

Red Squirrel Campsite, Ballachulish

Today the weather has been outstanding. Blue skies, scuttling clouds, amazing vistas. The downside too many visitors.

We decided to head back to Glencoe, and so it seems did the world and his wife. 

First stop the Glencoe Mountain Resort for showers. One pound for never ending hot water gave us enough time to wash ourselves, T-shirts, smalls and towels. Once again the wind blew, funnelling through the mountains but we didn't mind. It was warm and sunny. We stayed awhile taking in the spectacular views whilst drinking coffee at the cafe. Nature's tumble dryer worked it's magic and our washing soon dried.

Then a drive back to the long, winding road that led to Glen Etive. Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond had a home here. And when the film Skyfall was filmed, part of it was here along the road, thus turning the quiet unspoilt area of Glen Etive into a 'must visit' location. 

The drive down to the loch was beautiful. Mountains, dry river beds, waterfalls, bog cotton and lots of rhododendrons. This invasive species with their vibrant purple flowers were fast covering the whole area. Pretty as they look, the rate they multiply is worrying.

We'd bought food for a barbecue this evening, but upon our arrival at the park up by Loch Etive it soon became apparent it was too windy to stay. So we back tracked to Ballachulish to The Red Squirrel Campsite where we stayed three weeks ago.

It's suits us perfectly here camping amongst the trees, cooking on an open fire with like minded people. The access to the site is a little tight so luckily the large motorhomes can't gain access, which we consider to be a bit of a result.

Tomorrow we will check the weather and decide our onward journey. Moral had been boosted by today's sunshine and the return to this campsite. The forecast for tomorrow is once again rain, but we think we may now travel east in search of yet more fine weather. We don't really want to leave Scotland just yet.