Camping Belle Vue, Muides sur Loire

We were awoken by a roar. We both knew it was the sound of hot air balloons taking to the skies in time to watch the sun rise. Amazingly we were the first cyclists to leave. The climb out of town, passing Leonardo de Vinci's house was long and hard. John cycled, Angela walked. It was too early to strain her bad knee. Our ride took us out into the countryside and pass many vineyards before dropping back down to the river where traditional flat bottomed boats awaited today's customers. We made good time arriving in Blois by lunchtime. We'd even had time for a coffee stop along the way. Once again keen to stay in the shade during twelve to three we found a table under some trees and sat talking to an Australian couple. They told us skin cancer was on the rise in their country and there had been a large advertising to make people aware. 'Between eleven and three, get under a tree'. This evening rain clouds come and go. Fingers cross the rain misses us. However we end the day as we began with the sun. The sky is ablaze as the sun slips below the tree line. Today has been a good day. John spotted a female stag beetle, and we didn't get lost.

Camping municipal de l'Île d'Or, Ambois

There's cycling in the sun and there's cycling in the heat. Today we cycled in both. By the time we reached the Loire river and the campsite at beautiful Amboise Angela was fit to drop.

We'd left at eight that morning, lost our way multiple times, stopped for three hours at lunchtime to let the heat of midday pass and diced with death on busy roads.

Ask any cycle tourer and they will tell you, some days are just not enjoyable.

That aside, once we'd set up our tent, unpacked and showered we sat near a stateau of Leonardo de Vinci looking at the stunning Loire river which wrapped it's cold wet arms around us like a cooling comfort blanket.

We were on familiar territory and it felt great. The day had really tested us, but all that was forgotten. And as an added bonus Angela managed to persuade the ladies at reception to lend us a couple of chairs. She did have to come up with a bit of a sob story to get them. Who cares? It worked.

Camping de la Motte, Marcilly - sur - Vienne

So used to early starts Angela was up at six even though we didn't leave until just after eight thirty after the campsite office opened so we could pay. Today we would cycle along the road to Chatellerault and join the Euro velo 3 cycle route. It took a while to find our way out of the town, the route badly sign posted.

Angela stopped to buy a bottle of water. In front of her at the check out two offensive smelling men bought a two litre plastic bottle of rose wine and paid the 2.45 euros in cents, probably acquired from begging. How long would it take for them to drink it?

After passing between fields of sunflowers, some in full bloom, their bright yellow heads tilting slightly towards the sun, others patiently waiting to mature we arrived at a dubious looking campsite.

It's turned out to be alright though. The couple in the campervan opposite are from near Grantham, Lincolnshire. We chatted with them a while before settling down for the evening. Tonight we think we will sleep well. We've cycled around thirty miles, not always easy, sometimes with a head wind. An early start tomorrow. We are aiming to reach Amboise on the Loire. It's around sixty miles away.

Camping Municipal, Chasseneuil Du Poitou

Train all booked we set off in good time for Bordeaux station stopping to look at the galleon moored on the waterfront.

The station was very busy. We are always a little nervous when in stations in large towns and cities. And of course when our platform number was announced we had to take the lift to access it, along with the wheelchair users. One lift, four journeys, the clock was ticking.

Ninety minutes later a change at Angouloume. Angela went in search of cheese, fruit and orangina and of course a box of four ice creams! Must keep our strength up.

On our connecting train to Poitiers we met a young Frenchman called Colin. His great grandmother was from Liverpool. He was keen to speak to us in English, and during the course of the journey discussed Brexit (as always), Scotland and the quality and price of food in France. On the campsite at Bordeaux six eggs from the shop would cost you five euros. Colin said, in his home town around three euros would buy you twelve eggs, and we joked that they'd throw in the chicken that laid them as well. Colin is studying at the university in Poitiers and once he's saved some money would like to come to England. If he does we'll be happy to welcome him. Tonight's stop is O.K. For the first time there is no seating so we laid out our tarp and ate cheese, pate and bread.

Yelloh Village Camping, Bordeaux Lac

Despite not having to be up early we were. In no rush we packed up then sat by the swimming pool and drank coffee. Our neighbours from La Rochelle left, telling us to stay strong. We'd really impressed them.

Then a four mile cycle to Biganos, the temperature 30c by ten o' clock to take a train to Bordeaux.

The ticket office was closed. Fortunately the ticket machine translated to English. We really wanted to go further on than Bordeaux so began the process to do this. A queue began to build. Clueless we gave up allowing the French lady behind to sort out her journey. She couldn't. The booking system had locked up. Well done English. Long story short, the booking desk opened. We really wanted to up as far Poitiers by tomorrow. After much time and trying varying routes we were booked. The bicycles the problem. Although they travel free, a space has to be allocated.

By midday we were at Bordeaux, a city we love. It was hot. Very hot. A wine festival was taking place and it was busy.  We found a shady spot, ate lunch and settled down for a couple of hours before cycling to the campsite at Bordeaux Lac. The sign said it was full! But it wasn't. We have stayed here now about five times.

Our neighbours are from Delft, Netherlands. They have a tandem and are cycling Pamplona, Spain. Wow. As for us. Tomorrow lunchtime we take a train to Angoulume then onto Poitiers. From Biganos to Poitiers 77 euros for the two of us. The joy of owning French senior rail cards.

Camping Le Braou, Audenge

Desperate to cycle as far as possible before the heat of the day stopped us, we left at eight-thirty this morning. The Italian cyclists who we'd spoken to a little yesterday evening decided he wanted to talk. We don't mean to be rude, but we need to set off. Sorry.

Thankfully the cycle along the forest trail wasn't too taxing. Yesterday had tested our stamina, and we felt tired. Plus Angela's left knee was troubling her after her fall. The cicadas were once again at full volume. Yesterday their cacophony got into our minds. Were they laughing at us? We don't know how many miles we've ridden through the pine forests, all we can say is, a lot. We are desperate for a change of scenery. However the ride through the fragrant trees has been an education. We now know what the escape exits look like if a fire breaks out. Always good to know. Eleven-thirty arrived and the temperature rose. It was difficult to find a shady spot, albeit still warm. A sports hall in Audenge saved the day with a large covered outside area. We were only six miles from Bignos our designated overnight stop, but the heat was just too much so we decamped to the nearby municipal campsite which has turned out just fine.

The pitch we chose a young German family with a caravan wanted as it was right opposite the children's play area. So we moved. It would have been mean not to, after all we were staying one night. The mosquitos here are rife, drawing blood at ever opportunity. The German man phoned his wife and asked her to buy mosi spray for us as well. A fair swap for the pitch. Six euros well spent. Tomorrow we must decide our onward route. Our French neighbours are astounded we've cycle from Nantes in twelve days on non electric bikes. They are from La Rochelle. We may take a train to Bordeaux or a little further on and pick up the La Scandiberique, a cycle route which runs from Trondheim in Norway to Santiago in northern Spain. Obviously we won't cycle it all. We have to be back at Cherbourg in three weeks. Before any plans can be confirmed we must check the weather.

Camping La Grigne, Le Porge Ocean

We packed up early and were way just after eight-thirty, keen to cycle as far as possible before the heat of midday. The flat trails of yesterday replaced by steep climbs through the pine forest that covered the sand dunes.

By the time we reached Lacanau Ocean we were exhausted. Keen to find the supermarket to by lunch and food for the rest of the day Angela tried to be clever cycling on the pavement instead of crossing onto the cycle path. The path had been freshly gravelled. She braked hitting the deck. John and a Frenchman who'd been cycling behind disentangled her from her bike. Falling off is always one of our fears. Angela seems to do it on every trip. Lacanau Ocean is place to be seen. The beach was busy. One woman determined to tan every nook and cranny. That looks uncomfortable, she won't hold that position for long.

Tonight's site a mere three star. It's enough for us though. We always enjoy our evenings.

Sitting down to eat, reflecting on the day, planning the next. Angela is nursing sore grazed legs. She hopes tomorrow there will be less hills. Call this a holiday. It's more an endurance test. Last time we cycled this coast we were eight years younger. Perhaps a cycle trip to Holland next time. Nice and flat.

Camping Cote D'Argent, Hourtin Plage

After camping out under the Le chapeau last night we were covered in mosi bites. The lady who arrived to open the office couldn't believe we'd been outside during the storms. She made us coffee. Our onward cycle was a long flat tarmaced trails.

Our lunchtime stop a Montalivet-les-Bains gave us the opportunity to dry our tent. The forecast was good, thankfully, and we pressed on to Hourtin Plage where a five star, yes five star campsite awaited us.

Five euros and our clothes were washed properly for the first time in nearly three weeks.

Just after nine we took the short walk to the beach, treating ourselves to a drink at one of the bars before watching the sunset. The events of last night catching up with us we were glad to retire to bed.