Lossiemouth

Another day, another hill walk. This morning a chill hung in the air as did the cloud which was reluctant to lift off the nearby mountains. However we wrapped up and walked to the nearby waterfall and back through the slightly petrified trees. Pretty pink and white wood anemones peppered the long wet grass. 

(A few comments on the reserve sightings board were a bit odd!)

Today we were in no rush. You've peaked too soon Marge. Our pack rafting course in nearby Aberfeldy is in a few days' time, so with time to lose we decided to head up to the coast. After just ten minutes we found ourselves at The Pattack Falls.

An amazing beauty spot right alongside the main road. The onward drive took us through the Cairngorms, passing by a stone that marked the geographical centre of Scotland before arriving at the small town of Carrbridge, where we stopped to look at the oldest stone bridge in the highlands.

The town is also famous for the World Championship Porridge Making Championships which takes place each year, and draws contestants from all over the world. We'd like to have been in town to have seen it. 

Marge has now delivered us to Lossiemouth on Scotland's north east coast. An extraordinary fact about this town is that in the early 1900's the sand dunes were artificially made by placing dozens of disused railway carriages on the beach to protect the town from the sea.

We were at the seaside, so it had to be fish and chips for tonight's meal. 'One and half breaded haddock suppers, please.' We could both hear John's late father saying. 'Get the girl a full sized portion!

Creagmeagaidh National Nature Reserve, Aberarder.

Garry Loch looked more appealing this morning, the rain that fell through the night had moved away and the weather for the day looked hopeful. But before we could travel too far we needed to stop off at the nearby community hall which had a water tap outside for the vans to use. Donations appreciated.

A beautiful drive alongside Loch Lochy took us to Fort William where we took the opportunity to do an Aldi shop. The store was chaotic. The Scottish lady in front of Angela at the check out thought maybe it was pension day. She was impressed when told we'd just returned from the Outer Hebrides. All that way! And, you've got a good colour, was the weather good? Outside in the car park, a far too large hired motorhome was in danger of wrecking havoc. Wait until you reach those single track roads. It's always a good idea to hire the largest van you can afford. Home is where you park it. At this point on the bonnet of the car behind.

One of our neighbours back at home recommended we visit Glen Nevis. So we did just that. Before setting off on our woodland walk we launched outside at one of the picnic benches, the day now warm. The walk took us alongside the water that fell from the upper waterfall. We walked quite a way up passing the  lower falls, sitting to take in the view. A cathedral of large rocks all around, fallen from the nearby mountains where clouds clung to their flanks. And great examples of Scots pine growing alongside oak, hazel and birch trees. The snow line was so close it seemed within striking distance. How hard could it be? 'All the gear, no idea!' Thanks Marge.

We are heading east now, and have just entered the Cairngorms National Park. Our stop is the Creagmeagaidh National Nature Reserve car park. If the weather's fine in the morning we hope to take a walk out here. There's a chance we may see a Golden Eagle which would be fantastic. Meanwhile a thick blanket of cloud is descending on the mountains around us. It's looking like it could be a cold night.

Garry Loch, Invergarry

Just Marge and one small van remained on Raasay last night. It felt very isolated, even though the ferry to return us to Skye was berthed in the nearby harbour. An orange glow emitted from the lamps that lit nearby Raasay house penetrating the darkness.

This morning everything changed with the weather. Rain, rain, rain was today's forecast. Oh joy. We'd been spoiled these last couple of weeks. At 10 am the ferry slid into the Sound of Raasay. The Cuillin hills so clearly visible yesterday, sagged under a blanket of low cloud. We had no onward plan. We tried to catch a ferry over to Mallaig, to no avail. First availability tomorrow lunchtime. On the plus side wild garlic grew in abundance nearby, so John filled a bag to satisfy his love of it. So after stopping to buy some fruit, from a small supermarket virtually stripped bare by van shoppers, we drove to Kyleleakin where we made a loose onward plan over lunch. 

Sorry Marge, today's driving will be mostly uphill. Remember the top of one is then a race down to climb the next one. The rain fell lightly, so we were still able to see the view and of course the striking Eileen Donan castle where pink blossoms foamed on cherry trees, brightening the grey day. 

We decided to stop alongside Loch Garry, about fifteen miles from Fort William. This'll do Marge. The rain eased a little and we walked along the shore of the loch, our boots slipping on the wet stones. Silvery speckled leaves of lungwort clung to the trees alongside pale green lichen as light as candy floss. 

Our walk took us to a tiny cemetery set amongst the trees, which of course we entered to read the gravestones, as we always do for some reason. The sign on the gate, ''visitors welcome'. Not just yet thanks!

Isle of Raasay

The price to pay for beautiful sunny days is cold nights. Last night we put our second duvet on the bed and were well cosy. Earlier in the evening we'd been sat outside 'The Chippy', yes that was the name of the fish and chip shop, talking to a couple from Twyford who'd flown up to Inverness to drive the North Coast 500. Average price of their B&B's, £175.00 a night!

Another clear bright start to the day. An empty sky forecast another good day. We stayed on in Portree until after lunch. The parking area was rammed with vans and it made for a nice social outing. Everyone had stories to tell and advice to give. A young Italian couple who we'd spoken to last night asked us to recommend where they should spend their last few days before returning their hire van to Edinburgh. It had to be, drive a little further up the west coast, it's stunning. They were hoping the roads would be 'proper'. On Scotland's west coast a proper road is single track with passing places, and lots of potholes. And that's the A roads.

Today we had planned to visit Raasay which lies just off Skye. A twenty-five-minute sailing for just twenty-two pounds delivers you to this tiny island just 5 miles wide by fourteen miles long. The journey is essential if you like views.

We found them to be extraordinary! The Red and Black Cuillin mountains stood proud. We'd never seen them look so magnificent. The roads here however needed major attention. Shake, rattle and roll Marge. Well not the roll bit perhaps.

After driving around, for a while we settled Marge at the start of the walk to Dun Caan, the highest mountain on the island. It was cold, but the walk up warmed us. To see the most amazing views sometimes you have to climb a mountain, and although we did not walk right to the top, in the two hours we were walking we saw some amazing views. Certainly, twenty-two pounds worth. 

Tonight, Marge is tucked behind a traditional stone building at the little ferry port. The last ferry arrived on the island at seven thirty this evening, so we couldn't leave now even if we wanted to. The late sun turned the mountains gold. Still striking they look down over us. 

We are tired from our walking, but well fed, warm and content. That'll do us.