Kyleakin

In the last few days, we saw our first swallow, but as we know, one swallow doesn't make a summer. Today we saw our first midge, or smidge if we'd caught it. We'd decided to change our plans, loose as they were. We're now not visiting Mull or Ardnamurchan as time is slipping by and we really want to visit some of the outer Hebridean islands, mindful that by the beginning of May we need to be somewhere near to Aberfeldy. So much to see Marge, so little time. 

So today we must make haste. Leaving behind our fantastic overnight location we bade farewell to the seals who'd returned to bask on the rocks. A stop at Oban to top up on food ready for our island adventures, lunching and trying to book ferry tickets. After nearly an hour and a half, we gave up. The CalMac online booking system was having none of it. The onward drive to Fort William, gateway to the highlands took us through stunning landscapes with beautiful scenery.

Deciding to press on further we stopped, as we always do when we pass this way at the Commando Memorial just near to Spean Bridge. The view today even more stunning with snow on the mountains that surround it. Today was turning out to be a very long day of travelling and the vista lifted our spirits.

Not happy with our choice of overnight stop, and with daylight fading we journeyed on to the Isle of Skye. Disruption to the ferry timetables meant we couldn't sail from Mallaig to Skye, so we'd had to drive. At 8.45 pm we were on Skye, fish and chips bought, but still with no overnight stop, as the one we'd headed to at Broadford was now a no, no. So, we backtracked eight miles to the old slipway at Kyleakin just near the road bridge where we joined another van.

Time now 9.45 pm. We'd left Kintyre at 10.10 this morning. Wine Marge? What a day. But what a drive. We'd seen some fantastic sights, but now were exhausted. Tomorrow Marge a chill day.

Southend

This morning the sun rose above the island of Arran, its silvery light more of the moon, cast a spotlight on Marge. The snow on the islands peaks no more, we could feel the day would be our warmest yet. Just after nine, two ladies arrived, de-robed and took to the water. Good on them, not for us though. Back on dry land, all on display, they seemed in no rush to dress and warm up. Keen to make an early start, we were away by nine-thirty. Firstly, Marge there are some 14% gradients to climb. Rest assured, we're not too keen either. 

Campbeltown just a few hair-raising miles down the coast, was our first stop. the leisure centre in fact, where £2.50 buys you a nice hot shower and, the ultimate, use of a hairdryer. Scotland is really geared up for van people, cyclists and walkers, offering shower facilities at village halls, ferry terminals and sports facilities. We have decided to use them sometimes this trip to take the pressure of Marge. And who doesn't like a hairdryer? £5.00 well spent we walked into town to see the Linda Mcarthy memorial garden, which wasn't much and turned out to be a bit of a disappointment. 

Our final destination today the Mull of Kintyre. Southend (not the one in Essex), is a small village at the tip of Kintyre. We had come to see the ruins of St. Columba's chapel and well, St. Columba's footprints, and the Keil caves. Also, the basking seals, of which there were many lying on the rocks in the afternoon sun. We sat a while and watched them before walking along the beach, combing it as we went. If the weather holds, we will cook sausages on our gas grill this evening. So far there are three vans here in total, but it is such a beautiful spot we expect more to join us this evening. For now, we will enjoy the view across to Ailsa Craig and the coast of Ireland.

Torrisdale

Before leaving Loch Fyne, which was outstandingly beautiful in the early morning sunshine, we bought crayfish sandwiches and a black pudding sausage roll from the deli for our lunch. The crayfish sandwiches were delish! The black pudding sausage roll not so.

First stop this morning Tarbert. A small town on the west coast. We walked up to the castle and around the shops, buying a book on the outer Hebridean islands for later in our trip. Castle day to day Marge.

Skipness castle on the side of the Kintyre peninsula afforded views across to the island of Arran. The sun shone, and we took our time walking back to the van alongside banks of daffodils. In the woods wild garlic grew in abundance. A stash of it now in Marge's fridge. 

Tonight, Marge has the best spot in a very small parking area just off the road adjacent to the beach. Our view is still Arran, standing proud in the evening light. Angela collected driftwood for a project she has planned at home and John sat and watched two seals in the shallows.

Soon the weather broke, and as every night since we arrived in Scotland it rained, heavily. But we didn't care, we knew the sun would shine on us again tomorrow.

Loch Fyne Oysters, Clachan.

A restful night last night at the castle corner campsite Best nights sleep for Angela in a while. Before leaving we spoke to a couple of our fellow travellers. One, a young girl around eighteen/nineteen was off to Ireland, then taking a ferry over to northern Spain to then drive to Portugal, Southern Spain and if there was time Italy. We wished her a safe journey. Having driven some of this route ourselves we gave her a few tips. As Marge slipped out of the site, the morning sun caught the tops of the ruffling waves in the Solway Firth. Today our adventure would begin properly, we were in Scotland now. Bring it on Marge.

Once pass Glasgow we drove alongside Loch Lomond, which was beautiful, interesting and a little dangerous. Eyes on the road Angela, not on the view. It was hard to concentrate, the mountains topped with snow were fascinating. Then the weather changed, four seasons in a few hours. Heavy icy rain made us pull over for five minutes, then cold wind made us retreat back into Marge after we stopped high up in the mountains to take photographs. But the sun kept reappearing, and we soon forgot the earlier cold rain. 

Our stop tonight is in the car park of Loch Fyne Oysters at Clachan. The view from Marge down Loch Fyne is fantastic, just as the view towards the snow topped mountains is. 

Suffering from cabin fever, having spent so much time in Marge these last few days of travelling we walked out. Angela tripped over a bramble, despite a warning to be careful from John, which she did not hear. Ouch! Now she has very sore and swollen knees. 'What a liability'. O.K. Marge, that'll do. Despite the rain closing in for the night, we are snug in Marge, and looking forward to tomorrow when we will drive down to the Mull of Kintyre. Fingers crossed for fine weather.

Caerlaverock Castle, Dumfries & Galloway

Right Marge, let's roll. The sun was shining and we were looking forward to arriving in Scotland around early afternoon. Our destination, the forever reliable castle corner campsite (although no longer a campsite, just a stop over site under the trees), near to a fantastic ruined castle with views across the Solway Firth.

The site is popular as it is near to the border and has water and a toilet disposal point. It's the little things in life that matter.

Our drive took us through the Lake District, the views a dangerous distraction when driving. Shadows from chasing clouds scurried across the mountains causing the landscape to constantly change. Stunning. We were in Cumbria now, where it seems ladies, tights cause a problem at service areas. 'Please do not flush your tights down the toilet'. And it was not just tights, the list of don'ts was eight items long! 

Early afternoon Marge crossed the border. We have been excited about coming back to Scotland. We usually visit in September, so were looking forward to seeing the area in the spring. A carpet of bright yellow celandines greeted us accompanied by a cluster of violet blue bluebells, who nodded to us as we passed by. Beautiful. 

The gods have smiled on us since we left Poole. Fairly good weather, no traffic congestion (a first), but now, you've guessed it, heavy rain. Well, we've said it before, and we'll have to say it again, you don't come to Scotland for the weather. Let's hope it's an improving picture Marge.

Thelwall, nr: Warrington.

Marge is groaning. We said, groaning Marge, not moaning. She is under strain from the bikes on the bike rack, extra clothing and food supplies. We are heading to Scotland's west coast where food supplies are limited, and then later in our trip across to the east coast for a three day pack rafting course. This is to be an activity holiday. Cycling, walking and kayaking.

Angela, inhaler in hand, on the mend after a two week chest infection, will tomorrow plan our month long journey around this beautiful area taking in some of the western isles that we've not visited before. Will it all run smoothly? Well, we'll see. As Angela's late brother used to say. 'Life is for living, rules are for breaking'. So we're going to live life and no doubt Marge will break the rules!

Tonight a pub stop, just a few miles from the M6 motorway. The Pickering Arms is an 18th century black and white pub in the village of Thelwall, unknown to many who drive by as they head north or south on the nearby motorway. For the price of two drinks, plus a meal if you wish, you can stay in a quiet spot, safe and secure in the pub car park. What's not to like? 

Tomorrow, we'll cross the border into Scotland. It's been eighteen months since we were last there and we are looking forward to seeing the area during springtime. We are armed with midge nets for our heads and midge cream. Sorted We hope. Let the fun begin.

Oxfordshire

 A random photo of Marge of on our drive, as we're flying a bit under the radar and not wanting to give away the actual location of our stay for the night!

(Bikes are too tall on rack)

(blocks made to hold front forks from old scrap wood, then painted)

(Thats's better, bikes tucked down out of the way)

Before setting off John was busy fitting our new bike rack on Marge's rear end as we are going to need something a bit more capable than the Bromptons as we want to cycle some gravel off road tracks in Scotland, also we have packed our lightweight tent, and a bit of camping gear as John wants to leave Marge on the Isle of Skye, take the ferry to Rasaay, cycle Callum's Road, and hopefully spend a night camping on top of Dun Caan.