Freshwater West, nr: Angle

 

Where will you take us today Marge? That's the joy of travelling for you, we never really know where we'll go, who we'll meet or what will happen during the course of the day, and where we will spend the night. As other vanlife people say, 'the greatest part of your trip is the stuff you see and do along the way'.

So let's set off Marge, first stop, Carew Castle, a Norman castle that was transitioned into an Elizabethan manor house. In its grounds, the only tidal mill in Wales. Busy with families, we decided to take time for hot drinks before walking around. Pushing the boat out. Yes Marge. Oh, by the way after this we're taking you up onto Castlemartin firing range. Just saying.

We had to drive across the range (checking first the road was open) to St. Govan's Head where we walked down to St. Govan's chapel set in the cliff. John walked down further over the rocks whilst Angela sat just below the chapel directing people as to the best path back up. Born leader. From close by explosions and automatic gun fire could be heard. Don't panic Marge!

Onward Marge. We need to find an overnight spot, they're becoming few and far between now. After dismissing nearby Pembroke we drove back up onto the range to Freshwater West where we would be able to park up in a large layby set back from the road. The car parks and all other parking was a no go, although there were lots of surfers vans there and we thought they'd probably risk staying over without being fined.

The view is spectacular along the coast to Linney Head and St. Ann's Head. We walked onto the beach, a vast expanse of sand where the surfers played one end and rock pools amongst volcanic rock the other. Across from Marge is a seaweed drying shed, one of many which would have been in the area. This is where seaweed from the nearby beach would have been dried before being sent to Swansea to be made into lava bread.

Penally, Tenby

Today was John's birthday, bunting adorned the parking area this morning in honour of this day. Nice one Angela. :)

Our drive today took us to Tenby, a harbour town and resort with thirteenth century town walls and a castle overlooking the town from a headland off the beach. The towns sandy beaches make this a popular holiday destination and the beaches were busy but not overcrowded. 

Marge parked in a space specifically for vans, although no overnight allowed of course, we walked into the town, ate birthday pasties and ice cream and sat a while to take in a view, reminiscent of West Dorset, across Carmarthen Bay to a patchwork of fields back on the Gower Peninsula.

Down by the harbour we visited the new lifeboat station and the fisherman's chapel, pretty but not a striking as the one at St. Vaast le Hoque near Cherbourg in France which we think is stunning.

Our time in Tenby passed quickly and we left the town in search of our overnight stop, The Paddock Inn at Penally, a five-minute drive away. We'd phoned ahead to reserve a space in the car park and table for our evening meal. Arriving at six, the pub was busy with locals and as it was a nice evening we decided to sit outside. All good. Perhaps not. We ordered our food at ten to seven and it arrived at eight fifteen.

Not good. Oh well it tasted nice and John will remember his birthday for the spicy Ethiopian dish of Doro Wat he ate. Angela played it safe, fish, chips and mushy peas. 

We are expecting tonight to pass quietly. Music is wafting up from the nearby holiday park, a little different from last night when we were entertained with eighties music from the other van near us. Not what you would expect from a man in his late seventies, early eighties who was hard of hearing so he pumped it up a little. 

As for Marge, she's on top form. Powering up hills and running like a dream. Don't make us regret saying this Marge please.

Kidwelly

What a night last night. The Lionesses beating Sweden 4-0 in the Euros. We can't wait until Sunday, when we'll need to ensure we have signal to watch the final match. Apert from us shouting our support, last night passed quietly, Marge and one other van. We were more than happy this morning to take things easy washing clothes, showering, sorting out our toilet and water and chatting to David which meant it was nearly one o' clock before we left. Then a stop at a nearby Lidl, where Angela was given the full Welsh experience. Announcements in Welsh. Signage in Welsh. Welsh spoken at the checkout. Even the eggs had a Welsh label on them complete with large red dragon.

As the day was well underway by the time, we left Lidl we decided to travel along the coast to Kidwelly. Free overnight stops are few and far between in this area and campsites expensive. The campsite down by the beach where we stayed last night would have cost forty-five pounds for a night. Fifty pounds with electrical hook-up. Scandalous! Yes Marge, it is.

At Kidwelly there were two overnight spots. One at the old quay the other in the town. We parked up at the old quay first and after taking a short walk realised that noise from a nearby tip used by skip lorries would probably be more than a little annoying, so moved into the small town where we are now parked by the ruins of the nineteenth century slaughterhouse. We take you to all the best places Marge.

Kidwelly made us think of a small French town. A little tired, some shops closed, not many people around and dominated by the ruins of a large castle. The castle in fact one of the best examples of a Norman development. After walking around the outside of the castle alongside the river, we as usual visited the churchyard. Why, because we always do. There's always something interesting to see, if a little quiet. 

There is one other van here with us so far which is O.K. It makes Angela feel more comfortable if we have neighbours. One thing Kidwelly does have going for it is two Chinese take aways, so guess what tonights meal will be. Well, it'll be wrong not to, when we're parking up overnight for free. You must put money into the local economy!

Llangennith, Rhossili

The Mumbles was not the place we expected it to be, quiet with a village feel. Swansea being so close by meant it attracted noisy cars and motorbikes which drove by at speed during the night. Although we felt safe, we wished it had been a little quieter overnight. But at the end of the day, it was just a stepping stone to the Gower Peninsula where we were heading for Rhossili, an award-winning beach, voted as one of the best in the world with a vast expanse of white sand, rolling waves and dramatic panoramic views. 

But first the drive. Narrow roads with high hedgerows, lots of stop start as we met oncoming vehicles including a large lorry at a pinch point. Oh god Marge, we're in a tight spot! Unscathed we carried on only to meet a very large motorhome at another narrow spot. The driver of the large motorhome less than confident commented on how narrow the roads were. Really. Angela positioned Marge almost in a hedge whilst we held our breath as he shakily crept by. Nearly there. John had booked us onto a small camp site just outside the village. Fifteen pounds, toilet emptying and water top up which was all we needed, and most importantly signal. Tonight, England's ladies football team are playing Sweden. They needed our support. David who runs the small site of ten pitches was friendly and welcoming and really, really loved Marge. 

A walk of around half an hour took us down to the sand dunes and stunning beach. At the beach car park, we stopped to admire a Westfalia LT31 Florida, John's ideal camper. The German lady who owned it came over for a chat. She was making her way to Southern Ireland and then across to Spain and Portugal, a three-month trip. Lucky her. 

The warm sand hugged our bodies as we lay on it soaking up the sun, people watching reading and dozing. We'd escaped. Despite being busy the beach was so large we enjoyed our own space.

However, we still had to make our way back to Marge, high up on the hill opposite Rhossili Down which we walked over on our return trip. Sheep dived into the ferns at the sound of our voices. The views across to the Pembrokeshire coast were breath-taking. That is the direction we will be heading in a day or two.

Tonight, a chance to fire up our gas grill. All in all, this spot is turning out to be a real gem. Probably not in the winter though. Earlier this year the area experienced one hundred mile per hour winds!