Ranworth (Day 2)

A beautiful start to the day. The sun bright, waking us early. Outside, the willow trees swayed in the breeze that blew off the broad. The other van here with us last night, couple from Sheffield, left early, so it was just Marge for a while until another van appeared just after nine. The couple in it drinking Stella Artois lager for breakfast. As you do!

Today we had planned to take a boat trip, as the guide book recommended this was the best way to see the river Bure and some of the broads. So we drove to nearby Wroxham. Should we be driving down single-track roads with grass growing in the centre of the road? Probably not Marge. Hopefully we won't meet another vehicle. At Wroxham we parked Marge in Roys' long stay car park. Roys' it appeared seemed to dominate the town. From humble beginnings in 1895 when their first village store opened the family now own numerous businesses in the area. 

We booked ourselves on the Vintage Broadsman for a two-hour trip along the river Bure visiting some of the broads along the way.

As we left Wroxham, we viewed the riverside properties, with little privacy as the river was busy with a constant flow of traffic. We passed a pretty little blue and white cottage 1920's thatched cottage with Airbnb written all over it and the former home of George Formby.

Our skipper provided interesting commentary about the wildlife, riverside homes and general history of the area whilst we observed some interesting boat skills of those driving the hire boats. Alcohol and boats, never a great mix!

A rainbow of kayaks crowded around the ice cream boat which was doing a roaring trade on this warm day. On the top deck of one holiday boat four women sunbathed, each in a different stage of buttock exposure, oblivious of a constant flow of spectators, or perhaps not.

We really enjoyed the trip, especially seeing the Norfolk Wherry, one of only eight in existence. We don't generally pay for fun, but today we were glad we did. 

Tonight we have decided to return to The Maltsters at Ranworth. Drinks in the pub garden after a walk along the lane finished the day off nicely. Where tomorrow Marge? We might just hang around the broads another day. 

Thatching reeds, bundled and stacked in a barn near to the place we are staying

Just a few of the Wroxam Swans

Ranworth

The couple we met last night from Leicester, said that Norfolk was like stepping back in time, something we had to agree, especially to the west of Cromer. Out of politeness we made a point of speaking to the couple in the smaller transporter van between us and the German van. They said, they felt like the filling in a VW sandwich, but didn't seem overly bothered about it, well certainly not enough to move into one of the other spaces. As the sun set, obscured by the headland and cloud we decided to find out why some of Marge's electrics were not working. A 15 amp fuse was the problem, an easy fix, thank goodness. 

This morning we awoke to calm seas, sunshine and vehicle noise. We were glad yesterday evening we'd moved from the road along the seafront to a small parking area set back from it. For such a small place, an awful lot of rush hour traffic seemed to pass through. This area of Norfolk felt different to the north coast and we hoped as we moved into the broads we wouldn't be disappointed. Firstly we needed to top up Marge's water tank. John found out via the park4night app that water could be obtained at the boat area adjacent to Horsey Mill, so we headed there.

Horsey turned out to be a hidden gem. A pretty little place with a windpump restored by the national trust.

Here at Horsey the broads meet the sea a short walk away, but we decided to take the four-mile loop walk to Bromgrove Mill and back, stopping at All Saints church, a beautiful Saxon thatched building.

We took a look inside, then sat in the churchyard to eat our lunch. Along the way we had to step over caterpillars, jump out of the way of swallow tail butterflies and stop to watch a crane as it glided over Horsey Mere. The weather was beautiful, and dare we say, a little too hot. Back at Marge her internal temperature was 32 c. Are you having a hot flush Marge? What's that woman wearing? Oh no, not again Marge, leave people alone. Oh, a one-piece disaster we think. You can see every curve, and more. Honestly, the National Trust will let anyone in these days, it's gone right downhill. 

Late afternoon we decided to move on to a pub at Ranworth. The Maltsters offered overnight parking in exchange for money spent with them. Fair enough. It's Friday night and we like to ensure we're somewhere fairly safe at weekends.

The pub is right beside Ranworth broad and the sunshine had brought out the visitors. We settled Marge then walked along a boardwalk through the nature reserve to the visitor centre. Eclectic flora and a variety of woodland birds all around. Dragonflies patrolled and rafts of ducks drifted by. The panoramic vista from the visitor centre was beautiful.

Hungry from our days walking we ordered two pizzas from the Pizza Den in the pub garden then settled down with cold drinks to enjoy a rare warm summer evening. This evening we have a view of the water from Marge and are enjoying the songs of the blackbirds, thrushes and robins around us. Here's to more of the same tomorrow, Marge.

Walcott

Around nine-thirty yesterday evening we scrambled back up onto the pebbled beach, slipping and sliding as we made our way down to the shore. The incoming waves crashed onto the beach foaming then angrily clawing at the shingle as it slipped back. We could hear our grandson Elliot say, 'don't get your feet wet!'

 Towards the west the sky was ablaze, the sun caught behind a bank of dark cloud desperate to make a last appearance before settling into the horizon. Behind the beach in the lagoon avocets busied themselves and in the marshes we could hear the last calls of the birds before night fell.

This morning to be able to breakfast in Marge amongst the salt marshes was utter joy. A marsh harrier hovered over the nesting area where the skylarks were, they became skittish at its presence. A big sky of blue and an orange of a sun lit the area. In the sky, we could hear the rise and fall of an aeroplane engine as a pilot enjoyed aerobatics over the landscape. How lucky were we to be here at this very moment in time.

First stop today Tesco at Sheringham. Then on to Cromer where we parked Marge in a very large grassed parking area overlooking the sea. And guess what. No Overnight Parking Allowed! Despite an overnight parking charge of seven pounds. How does that work then?

We walked down to the pier where the most famous act performing this year at the theatre is Jimmy Tarbuck, and that just happens to be tonight. All around people were in fish and chip heaven, which would perhaps explain why we'd seen rats happily running around a park nearby. Look at that girl. Shapely. No misshapen is the word you're looking for. Leggings that slip off the hips. An interesting look. We then walked in to the town and stopped at the church of St. Peter and St. Paul to take a look inside.

A group of volunteers were waiting to provide us with information on the church pointing out the stunning Ascension and William Morris-stained glass windows.

Outside a group of bird watchers had their spotting scopes set up pointing up at the church tower where a pair of peregrine falcons and their juvenile could be seen high up on the gargoyles. The falcons delighted us all by flying around the tower, probably aware of the attention below. Back at Marge more adulation. A couple in a German hire van were keen to take a look at her. Overnight parking for us is becoming a little difficult, but after waiting a while we joined two other vans on the seafront at Walcott.

It's a lovely spot right beside the beach. A couple who'd moved here from Leicester and retired were keen to ask about and look in Marge. We should start charging Marge. I need an agent! You're not that famous. Yet!

The view along a vast expanse of a white sand beach promises a fantastic sunset if the cloud doesn't thicken too much. Tonight we will plan our onward journey probably towards the Norfolk Broads.

Salthouse

This morning after some rain in the early hours we were able to enjoy the morning sun whilst we breakfasted. The parking area was quiet, just us, the other van and a couple of dog walkers.

We'd picked the best spot for Marge with views up onto the heathland where someone recently had lit a fire using charcoal which was mostly unburnt. John took a bag and cleared it away. One of the rules of wild camping is to leave no trace. If someone does leave mess, then please clear it up if possible. Let's protect nature and preserve these precious overnight spots.

Leaving Wiveton we decided to check out another overnight stop at Salthouse right at the end of the beach road. We took a walk up onto the beach the pebbles shifting under our feet. Before we could see the sea, we could hear the waves sucking the stones off the beach as they pulled back ready to batter the shore once again.

Nearby skylarks were nesting amongst the vegetation. Conscious to be respectful of them we tried not to make too much noise.

In the ditch alongside Marge a heron stood, sensing our presence it flew on to the road further up. Three words described the area. Peaceful. Idyllic. Nature.

Today Marge smells a little sweeter. Angela has prescribed soda crystals a remedy our Marge swore by. We had decided to drive back to Wells-next-the-Sea in the hope the twisting and turning roads would dislodge the sediment stuck inside her waste water tank. Many years ago we stayed at Wells one new year, and parked Marge in Polka Road just a short distance from the property we'd stayed in.

A walk took us alongside the quayside of the working port and down to the beach with its colourful beach huts where we sat a while and read before returning to look around the town, passing on the way the lifeboat horse sculpture which stands in the harbour. The weather has been glorious today despite rain and thunderstorms forecast. The wind is now up, blowing from the southwest. We are hoping for yet another stunning sunset this evening here at Salthouse.